Made up of modern reinterpretations of historical watches, the Longines Heritage collection has been steadily gaining traction with enthusiasts. Typically faithful to the originals and also great value propositions, the line up was just joined by two black-and-white “Tuxedo” watches, a two-counter chronograph as well as the time-only Heritage Classic “Tuxedo”.

Initial thoughts

Longines has made it a habit of reaching into their rich archive to churn out historically-inspired watches like the Avigation BigEye Chronograph. While the proliferation of remakes might dilute the desirability of the vintage originals, I appreciate it very much. Such remakes allow me to enjoy the vintage aesthetics, but in a watch with modern build quality and compelling pricing.

And like earlier Heritage models, the new “Tuxedo” has strong vintage cues and little that gives it away as a modern watch. Notably, Longines omitted the customary “Automatic” label, and more importantly, the date, avoiding a recurring  pitfall for vintage remakes.

The 1940s original (left) and the remake

Highly legible thanks to the strong contrast, the dial has prominent Arabic numerals that add a bit of Art Deco flair that I adore. Its symmetrical layout with a small seconds at six o’clock also adds to the visual charm. Overall, the watch is balanced and clean, with no unnecessary elements to distract from its simplicity.

While the aesthetics are vintage-inspired, the case has been slightly upscaled to a more modern 38.5 mm. Although it is a great size by today’s standards, the lugs appear long and may hamper the wearability of the watch, which was the case for the Heritage Skin Diver.

Long lugs have long been a bane of the Heritage models as they result in watches that wear larger than the diameter suggests. While the long lugs are in line with the style of the original – remember that the originals were much smaller – I would prefer slightly shorter lugs. Or, better yet, retain the original case size, which was probably around 36 mm.

But the lugs do have a helpful detail: drilled spring-bar holes like the original, which are always welcome as they make strap changes a breeze.

Nevertheless, with a price tag of only US$2,000, the new “Tuxedo” is unsurprisingly a lot of bang-for-buck. In fact, it’s good enough value that most of its competition comes from other Longines watches, such as the Heritage Military and the Heritage Classic “Sector” Dial.

The movement

The Heritage Classic “Tuxedo” is powered by the L893 – an ETA A31.501 that is in turn based on the ETA 2892. Featuring an extended power reserve of 64 hours, the movement has a silicon hairspring, which results in the unconventional frequency of 25,200 beats per hour.

Providing a degree of resistance to magnetism and temperature fluctuations, silicon balance springs were once the domain of higher-end watchmaking but are fairly common now. Still, the silicon balance spring increases its perceived value proposition.

As typical for a Heritage watch, the back is solid and stamped with the brand’s historical, winged-hourglass logo from 1889

Key facts and price

Longines Heritage Classic ‘Tuxedo’
Ref. L2.330.4.93.0

Case diameter: 38.5 mm
Height: 11.65 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: L893 (ETA A31.501)
Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 64 hours

Strap: Calfskin with pin buckle

Availability: From Longines boutiques and retailers; delivery date to be determined
Price: US$2,000; or 3,020 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Longines.com

Update July 4, 2020: Case height added.

Romain Gauthier’s latest watch is a skeletonised version of its Insight time-only automatic first introduced three years ago. The Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette retains the same style as the brand’s other watches, but with more elaborate finishing thanks to the open-worked movement.

Initial thoughts

Romain Gauthier excels in finishing and the new watch undoubtedly has even more of the brand’s top-quality work since there are more surfaces to decorate. The skeletonisation also goes well with the movement, accentuating the long curves and sharp points that are typical of Romain Gauthier style.

Importantly, it’s not just a visual upgrade, but also a tangible one – instead of the usual brass, the bridges and base plate of the skeletonised movement are made of titanium. But the titanium parts are finished to the same degree as a standard brass movement, which is quite a feat.

And the basic Insight is already a well-conceived watch in the first place. It avoids some of the impractical features, like button winding and back winding, that Romain Gauthier installed on earlier models just to be different. That said, the skeleton version also suffers from one shortcoming of the standard model, which is the thick, 12.9 mm case. Nonetheless, the Insight skeleton is largely an enhanced version of an already-excellent watch.

The Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette with a carbon-composite case

The only downside is the price – which is no doubt justifiable. The skeleton in an 18k gold case is 50% more expensive than the standard model, and in platinum, the price premium is almost 70%. And then there’s the aggressively modern version with a carbon-composite case that is the most expensive of them all, and it doesn’t quite work visually for me; the finely-finished movement is at odds with the case material and style.

Rationally, the price premium is justified in light of the substantially more extensive finishing done on a substantially more challenging metal. Romain Gauthier says it takes 250 hours to complete just the anglage, or mirror-polished bevels, for the base plate and bridges – and I am sure it is true. But because the standard Insight already has an open dial, the skeleton version looks similar, making it feel expensive, even if it is not.

A raw titanium bridge (left), and after decoration

Open-worked and titanium

The Insight automatic movement is time only but elaborately constructed, with a small-but-thick rotor that winds twin mainsprings, as well as an off-centre time display. Both the style and details of the movement are recognisably Romain Gauthier, like the round spokes of the gears or “S” slot screws.

Almost everything is now revealed on the skeleton version, through artfully formed open-working. The cut-outs on the bridges and base plate echo the movement style, resulting in an easy, natural aesthetic.

The platinum version with a blue enamel sub-dial

Though the movement is modern in design, the skeletonisation is surprising delicate, with some of the bridges trimmed down to just the narrowest of arms.

According to Romain Gauthier, the thinness of the skeletonised parts is why the bridges and base plate are in titanium, instead of the usual brass. The thinnest bridge in the movement is just 0.7 mm high, and titanium’s superior rigidity makes such thin parts viable.

Frosted top surfaces and polished bevels on the bridges

The biggest challenge in finishing the titanium parts was the anglage according to Romain Gauthier. Sylvie Devaux, the head of anglage at Romain Gauthier, was quoted in the announcement for the watch as saying: “Each of the bevelling, softening, smoothing and polishing stages take far longer than working with brass. You have to repeat steps, sometimes twice. Titanium tends to stick to our anglage tools… You also sometimes come across micro-grains in the titanium that detach, leaving tiny spots. The only solution is to go back over the angle all again.”

A finished bridge (left), and one that is fresh out of the CNC mill

Variants

Identical to the standard version in dimensions – the case is 39.5 mm by 12.9 mm – the Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette is customisable in terms of case and dial material, as well as movement finishing to a degree. Options include fired enamel sub-dials as well as frosted, instead of polished, bevels on the movement, along with case material choices of either gold, platinum, or titanium.

And the most exotic and expensive variant is the Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Carbonium Edition that’s available only direct from Romain Gauthier.

It has a larger, 42 mm case made of Carbonium, a carbon composite made by French materials specialist Lavoisier Composites. Made from offcuts recycled from aerospace manufacturing, Carbonium is the same material used by Ulysse Nardin in several of its watches.

The Carbonium Edition with a Carbonium sub-dial and blued steel hands

The back of the Carbonium Edition

Key facts and price

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette

Diameter: 39.5 mm (Carbonium Edition 42 mm)
Height: 12.9 mm
Material: Red gold, white gold, platinum, titanium, or carbon composite
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Insight Micro-Rotor
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 80 hours

Strap: Rubber or alligator

Availability: From retailers or Romain Gauthier; Carbonium Edition available only from Romain Gauthier
Price: 18k gold – 108,000 Swiss francs; platinum – 148,000 Swiss francs; and Carbonium Edition – 155,000 Swiss francs

For more information, visit Romaingauthier.com.

Established by a robotics entrepreneur, Sick Toiz specialises in, well, “sick toys” – exceptional objects with a mechanical bent that have been produced with high-end methods and then finished by hand. Amongst its most extraordinary, and preposterous, creations is the Rattrapante Passage Lock, a door lock and handle that functions like a bona fide split-seconds mechanism.

Initial thoughts

The Rattrapante Passage Lock is an ordinarily trivial item – it is in essence a door knob – executed to an excruciatingly high standard. Clearly catered for a niche clientele who have an innate appreciation of engineering, finishing, and machining, the Passage Lock costs US$63,500. It is ridiculous, but also incredible.

Sick Toiz founder Tyler Schilling obviously spared no expense in building an ultra-complex door handle, either in design, manufacturing, or finishing. The components, for instance, are made on a five-axis CNC machine, instead of a four-axis CNC machine, which would have simpler and probably yielded a barely discernible difference. Even the spokes of the split-seconds wheel have bevelled edges.

Something like this is only possible when conceived by someone who genuinely appreciates such things and importantly, someone who can afford to back such a project as a hobby.

An engineer’s eye

The man behind Sick Toiz, Tyler Schilling, is a nerd in the best sense of the word. Having grown up with a father who was mechanically inclined but a doctor by profession, Mr Schilling started his career as a mechanic with an auto racing team, before founding Schilling Robotics in 1985.

The company specialised in remotely operated vehicles (ROVs) and robot arms for the offshore oil and gas industry. By the time Mr Schilling sold the company in 2012 – for well over US$200 million to energy-industry engineering giant TechnipFMC – Schilling Robotics was the world leader in underwater robotic arms.

When someone like Mr Schilling builds cool, technical toys, you can be sure they will be no-expense-spared cool.

The Sicktoiz logo

Split-seconds lock

The Rattrapante Passage Lock is basically an ultra-complicated door knob built like a rattrapante, or split-seconds, chronograph mechanism, right down to the column wheel and tension springs for each calliper arm.

Scaled up by about eight times from an actual watch movement, the Passage Lock is not a static metal sculpture, instead it actually functions like a split-seconds mechanism. Lock the door and the callipers halt the split-seconds wheel carrying the handle, preventing the door from unlocking.

This video demonstrates how it works:

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Tyler Schilling (@sicktoiz) on Apr 7, 2020 at 4:47pm PDT

The locking lever

The Passage Lock also includes an occupancy flag mechanism linked to the lock, which is a pivoted brass disc that indicates if the room is occupied

But not only is the handle inspired by watchmaking in terms of construction, it is also fabricated and finished like a watch movement. Made of brass and two alloys of steel – types 17-4 and 316 – the components are milled on a five-axis CNC machine, the most complex and expensive type of CNC machine to program and operate.

The resulting parts are then finished as they would be in a watch movement, with techniques like linear and circular graining, black polishing, perlage and anglage.

The split-seconds wheel, for instance, is finished with circular graining on its face , anglage on its inner edges and spokes. And the plate that attaches the mechanism to the door is covered in precisely-spaced perlage, while all of the screws have black polished heads featuring chamfered edges and slots.

Note the extreme precision in the meshing of the teeth

The Passage Lock can be customised in terms of the leather wrap for the handle and the language of the occupancy flag plate

Expensive as it is, the Passage Lock is an incredible piece of work that combines knowledge and appreciation of watchmaking with high-end machining and finishing. It is the probably the most impressive door handle ever.

Beyond the Passage Lock, the Sicktoiz catalogue is oddly diverse yet coherent, reflecting Mr Schilling’s varied interests that are all linked by an appreciation for mechanics and craftsmanship. Amongst its other offerings is a model of the Bugatti Model 100P racing aircraft, hand made from Macassar ebony and Aluminium, as well as a Wing Delete for the Porsche 911 GT2 RS and GT3 RS, which replaces the oversized factory-original wing to give the top-of-the-line 911s a more discreet look.

The Bugatti Model 100P

Key Facts and Price

Rattrapante Passage Lock

Dimensions
Face plate: 15.2 cm by 25.4 cm
Handle protrusion from door: 11.1 cm
Handle overall length: 29.2 cm
Material: Stainless steel and brass

Functions: Occupancy sign

Availability: Direct from Sick Toiz, with delivery three months from date of order
Price: US$63,500

For more, visit Sicktoiz.com.

Barcelona-based Atelier de Chronométrie made a name for itself with its beautifully crafted watches that capture the grace of 1940s timepieces. But all of its work so far has centred on time-only watches, all powered by heavily decorated vintage Omega movements. But now the AdC #8 Split-Seconds Chronograph takes things to a whole new level.

Retaining the elegant feel of the brand’s earlier creations, the AdC #8 is powered by a reworked movement that started out as a Venus 185 but completely reworked by Atelier de Chronométrie, with a substantial number of parts made from scratch. Commissioned by an American collector, the AdC #8 is largely hand made, with everything hand finished to a superlative, artisanal standard, which is why it took took two years to complete.

Initial thoughts

I first found out about this watch late last year, and it sounded promising given Atelier de Chronométrie’s track record in design and movement finishing. Though I am going by photos, the finished product definitely lives up to expectations, and then some. Everything about it is just done extremely well, and while it costs a lot of money, the AdC #8 is compellingly and reasonably priced as such things go.

Having closely examined Atelier de Chronométrie’s earlier watches, the AdC #8 will undoubtedly have the same feel – visually similar to a vintage watch but much more solid in the hand thanks to a more robust, modern case.

A little under 40 mm in diameter, the AdC #8 has the proportions of a vintage watch, though it is slightly larger than vintage chronographs with the same movement – those were usually 38 mm or so and slightly thinner – but manages to capture the same look, especially with the teardrop lugs and oblong chronograph pushers.

The same holds for the dial, which is likewise modelled on vintage chronographs and features a glossy, black “gilt” finish with Breguet numerals and leaf-shaped hands.

But as with Atelier de Chronométrie’s time-only watches, the execution of the dial is done to such a high, artisanal standard that places it in the modern day. Certain elements on the dial reflect its elaborate, hand-made nature, most obviously the solid-gold, applied numerals and the heavy, solid-gold hands that have a domed profile.

In vintage watches the Venus 185 is almost always plainly finished, as was the norm then for watches designed for professionals, presumably auto racers or pilots. Atelier de Chronométrie, on the other hand, has elevated the aesthetics and finish of the movement.

Atelier de Chronométrie already does exemplary decoration for its time-only movements, and this is basically more elaborate finishing on a greater number of components, right down to the black polished pallet lever cock. And many of the most crucial components were made from scratch, resulting in a look that is dramatically different from the stock Venus 185.

And then all of the parts, new and old, are decorated by hand to a degree comparable to the most prominent names in independent watchmaking, like Voutilainen for instance. But because Atelier de Chronométrie works with old-fashioned methods on a very small scale, making two or three watches a year, the result is slightly more artisanal than most of the competition.

Depending on your perspective, the origins of the movement might be a plus or a minus. The Venus 185 a well-regarded calibre from the mid 20th century golden age of Swiss watchmaking, but it also doesn’t have the novelty or originality of a new construction.

I like the movement, especially when seen in relation to the price, which is about US$95,000. That’s about half the retail price of a high-end, split-seconds chronograph with an in-house movement that’s finished to a similar (but probably slightly lower) standard, making the AdC #8 a value buy in relative terms.

Vintage style

Atelier de Chronométrie is a four-person outfit, made up of vintage watch dealer Santi Martinez, his wife Montse Gimeno, as well as watchmakers  Moebius Rassmann and Eduard Mercade, hence its ability to successfully combine high-end watchmaking and vintage-inspired design and techniques – with a great deal of attention to detail.

Take the case for instance. Made the old-fashioned way, and enhanced with soldered, generously-sized teardrop lugs, the 39.8 mm case is vintage style, but smartly designed to camouflage the 15 mm height. It combines a narrow case band combined with a high, concave bezel and domed back. Another smart detail is the flat split-seconds pusher in the crown that avoids the bulbous look of many co-axial split-seconds buttons.

And it is made of 18k grey gold, essentially white gold with a high palladium content, giving it a naturally grey colour. In contrast, the typical white gold used for watches has a faint yellow hue, which is why it is usually plated in rhodium, giving it a bright, silvery colour similar to platinum.

The dial is equally vintage in style, but again upgraded with modern, luxe elements. It’s rendered in a glossy black finish with metallic, slightly-shiny “gilt” markings, just as on a vintage watch. Even the serif typography used for the numerals – notice the “open” sixes – is properly vintage in style.

But the numerals are applied, a feature relatively uncommon on vintage-watch dials, while the hands are hefty and made of 18k grey gold like the case. They are filed and polished by hand, resulting in a lustrous, rounded surface possible only with hand-made hands.

The movement is based on the Venus 185, a movement that was produced from the 1940s to the late 1960s. It was a top-of-the-line movement often found in functional watches, most famously in the Breitling Duograph, but also used by lesser known brands like Telda and Certina. Such vintage watches had essentially no movement decoration; the parts were finished but not decoratively. Even the comparable Valjoux 55 in the Rolex ref. 4113 – probably the most valuable vintage split-seconds wristwatch ever – had no decoration to speak of.

Atelier de Chronométrie has gone to the other extreme, giving the Venus 185 a makeover that puts it amongst the very best modern movements. In fact, the finishing is more elaborate than other modern-day watches with the same movement, which were made by Parmigiani, Ulysse Nardin, and Panerai amongst others.

Some 50 components of the movement – out of 280 total – were produced by Atelier de Chronométrie by hand and without a CNC machine. The newly-fabricated parts improve upon the original components in shape, function, and material, and include the free-sprung balance wheel, balance cock, and split-seconds wheel bridge. More unusual is the split-seconds wheel in the centre of the movement that is made of titanium, with spoke shaped like the Atelier de Chronométrie logo.

The result is a distinctive look that continues the style found in the brand’s earlier watches. The balance cock, for instance, has sharply-angled outline with a black-polished steel cap on top. And the balance wheel is a proprietary design with aggressively shaped spoke and six rose-gold regulating masses.

But Atelier de Chronométrie has gone even further here than with its time-only movements. The pallet lever cock is black polished, as are the bridges for the split-seconds wheel and clutch.

The black-polished pallet lever cock, just under the balance wheel with its rose-gold weights

Delicately-shaped and black-polished

The rattrapante bridge with the titanium split-seconds wheel shaped like the AdC logo and a gold chaton for the jewel bearing

The elegantly-shaped split-seconds mechanism

The AdC #8 is a one-off creation, but Atelier de Chronométrie can do similar work starting from €85,000, or about US$95,000, for a split-seconds chronograph in a gold case – an eminently fair ask for the quality of work.

Key Facts and Price

Atelier de Chronométrie AdC #8

Diameter: 39.8 mm
Height: 15 mm
Material: 18k grey gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Venus 185 base
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and split-seconds chronograph
Winding: Hand-wind
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 36 hours

Strap: Leather with grey gold buckle

Limited edition: Unique piece
Availability: Direct from Atelier de Chronométrie
Price: Starting from €85,000 for split-seconds chronograph, and from €70,000 for a two-register chronograph

For more, visit Atelierdechronometrie.com.

One of the most high-spec travel watches on the market, the Lange 1 Time Zone has just gotten a major revamp. The new Lange 1 Time Zone looks pretty much like the old one, but it’s powered by a brand-new movement that’s been developed from the ground up. Though it retains the same functions as before – plus a basic daylight savings time reminder – the dial has been improved, both in terms of display as well as details.

Initial thoughts

The original Lange 1 Time Zone was an ambitious travel watch that did a lot – twin time zones with individual day and night indicators, cities disc, oversized date, and power reserve. Functionality was maximised, but the interface and display was complex.

The new Lange 1 Time Zone takes it a step further with the addition of a simple daylight savings time reminder that’s discreet enough to be almost invisible. But because the watch still has so many features, the interface inevitably remains complex, with two pushers plus a crown, making it a bit fiddly to use. Add to that the large and heavy case, and the Lange 1 Time Zone isn’t the most practical of travel watches. It really is for someone who appreciates the technical complexity and also enjoys interacting with the watch.

Technical accomplishment remains an appeal in the new model. In typical Lange style, the new watch is powered by a movement developed from the ground up. A substantial amount of effort was expended to retain the same look – as was done with the Lange 1 – while improving the details, illustrating the brand’s rigorous, uncompromising approach to construction.

Also worth noting is the new colour combination: the watch is now offered in white gold with a black dial, a stark combination that works better with the design than the pale-coloured dials.

In short, the Lange 1 Time Zone is a technically accomplished product – and actually fairly reasonably priced given how complicated it is – but it takes a while to adjust all the displays. And it looks best in white gold.

Time Zone evolution

Introduced the 2005, the original Lange 1 Time Zone was one of the most full-featured travel watches on the market then, a distinction the second generation still retains.

The watch shows home time on the large sub-dial at nine o’clock, and local time in the smaller sub-dial at five. But the home and local time displays can be swapped by depressing the second time zone button while setting the time – a cumbersome operation – which moves only the hands on the large sub-dial. Each time display had its own day and night indicator; both were oddly tiny with the one for local time awkwardly cutting into the local time sub-dial.

The original Lange 1 Time Zone, here in honey gold

Improving the day and night indicators were one of the starting points for the new Lange 1 Time Zone. On the new model, both day and night indicators sit on the same axis as the hands on their respective sub-dials, which is a far better solution in terms of design. The day and night indicator is now read in conjunction with the hour hand; if the hour hand is within the blue half of the day and night display, then it is night time, and vice versa.

The other key functional change to the dial is the indicator that serves as simple reminder for daylight savings time (DST). It takes the form of a small window within the pointer at five o’clock. If the window shows red, it means the respective city on the cities disc uses DST, and the time zone setting has to be adjusted according. Cities that do not use DST are indicated with a white display within the window.

While the dial remains largely the same in design and layout, it has been refined in several subtle aspects. The typography on the dial has been sharpened up, a tweak that’s most apparent by comparing the numerals of the five o’clock sub-dial and the city names. And the sub-dial at five o’clock is also rendered in a slightly different shade of the dial colour, to better set it apart.

The L141.1

The L141.1 movement in the new Lange 1 Time Zone looks superficially similar to the L031.1 in the first generation model, but is actually substantially different.

To start with, the L141.1 is consistently sized front and back because it is an all-new calibre. Its three-quarter plate is essentially the same diameter as the base plate, meaning it fills the case better.

In contrast, the L031.1 of the first generation was derived from the L901.0, the movement in the first-generation Lange 1. So it was a smallish movement with a much larger base plate that was necessary to accommodate the time zone functions.

The L031.1 of the first-generation Lange 1 Time Zone

The new L141.1 is clearly larger when viewed from the back, though it shares the same key design features, most notably the secondary going train for the additional time zone display that has its own hand-engraved cock, the trademark feature of the Lange 1 Time Zone movement.

It is also entirely different under the three-quarter plate, having one large barrel, instead of the twin barrels of the first generation. Another upgrade is the in-house balance wheel and hairspring.

The L141.1 seen through the display back

The L141.1 out of the case – notice that the three-quarter plate is almost as large as the base plate

Variants

The new Lange 1 Time Zone is also notable in terms of the variants in terms of case metals and dial. The white gold version is matched with a black dial, a fairly uncommon combination for Lange, which historically installed black dials mostly on platinum watches.

And then there’s the yellow gold version with a pale champagne dial – a look that harks back to the very first Lange 1 of 1994 – that’s a limited edition of 100 watches available only at boutiques.

Key facts and price

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone
Ref. 136.021 (yellow gold)
Ref. 136.029 (white gold)
Ref. 136.032 (pink gold)

Diameter: 41.9 mm
Height: 10.9 mm
Material: 18k gold
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: L141.1
Functions: Local and home time zones, each with day and night display; seconds; cities disc; oversized date; and power reserve display
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Hand-wind
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Leather with pin buckle

Limited edition: Yellow gold version limited to 100 pieces
Availability: From August or September at retailers and boutiques; yellow gold limited edition exclusive to boutiques starting a month later
Price: Yellow gold – €52,200; or 79,300 Singapore dollars
White gold – €49,200; or 74,700 Singapore dollars
Pink gold – €49,200 Euros; or SGD 74,700 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Alange-soehne.com.

Correction June 25, 2020: The new calibre is the L141.1, and not the L014.1 as stated earlier.

By far the most important markets for luxury watches, China and Hong Kong together accounted for over 21% of Swiss watch exports in 2019 according to trade body Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry. Add to that Chinese travellers who buy watches overseas, and the fact is the luxury-watch business is dependent on Chinese demand. So the crucial question for the watch industry’s future – what’s happening in the Chinese watch market post-pandemic?

On May 10, one of the trending topics on microblogging platform Sina Weibo was the US$30 billion plunge in the net worth of LVMH chief Bernard Arnault, mirroring the sharp drop in LVMH shares. But barely a week before – exactly a month after the end of Wuhan lockdown – there were nearly 100 customers queuing outside the Louis Vuitton boutique in Shanghai’s Plaza 66, all eager to shop before the brand’s price hike. The line outside Louis Vuitton reflected the rebounding demand for luxury goods in China as it emerged from a lockdown.

“Macro Data Indicates a Surge in Consumption” – read the headline in the business-focused Workers’ Daily newspaper on May 16. The sentiment is backed up by the latest data from the National Bureau of Statistics of China published in mid June. Though the statistics indicate retail sales of consumer goods declined 13.5% on a nominal basis from January to May, totalling RMB1,387.3 billion for the year to date, the monthly figures indicate a recovery is underway.

The monthly numbers show consumer spending hit rock bottom in January and February, falling 20.5%. By April, the decline compared to the year before was 7.5%, and in May, retail sales fell just 2.8% year on year. For the sub-group of consumer merchandise, which includes luxury watches, as well as food, cosmetics and household appliances, the drop was 11.2% for the five months from January to May, but in the month of May, sales rose 2.5%.

Out and about

The recovery in consumer spending was profoundly tangible at New World Daimaru, one of Shanghai’s most prominent high-end shopping malls. The mall celebrated its 5th anniversary on May 16 with various promotions, including substantial discounts at almost all of the stores within the mall, including at luxury goods stores that rarely offer such incentives.

Despite being a one-day event at a single mall, the mall’s anniversary attracted shoppers from the cities and provinces surrounding Shanghai. A woman from Jiaxing, a city in Zhejiang province 90 minutes from Shanghai, said during an interview on Dragon Television, “It only took me five minutes to buy a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch that was originally priced at RMB172,000”, adding that she only paid RMB134,100 for the watch, equivalent to a discount of about 22%.

New World Daimaru in Shanghai. Photo – Ctrip

The atrium of New World Daimaru. Photo – Ctrip

As with many high-end malls in China, luxury-watch brands are present in large numbers at New World Daimaru, which counts amongst its tenants boutiques belonging to Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC, Omega, Longines, Breitling, and Rado.Grand Seiko opened its first flagship boutique in China within New World Daimaru, staging the official opening on May 16 to coincide with the mall’s anniversary, simultaneously launching boutique-only special editions at the new store (namely the Heritage collection SBGA401G and SBGJ235G as well as the Sports collection SBGE251G).

Yoshimura Hitoshi, general manager of Seiko in China, explained the appeal of New World Daimaru went beyond its prime location in Shanghai’s shopping district, but also huge native market of Shanghai, which by extension also includes the rest of the country given the city’s status as a hub for commerce and shopping. He added, “I was so surprised when I arrived this morning – there was a large group of people waiting in line for the door to open!”

The opening of the Grand Seiko boutique in New World Daimaru on May 16, 2020. Photo – Grand Seiko

Yoshimura Hitoshi speaking at the opening of the Grand Seiko boutique. Photo – Grand Seiko

In fact, some shoppers even arrived as early as 7 am, resulting in a sizeable crowd forming outside the mall. As a result, for the sake of shoppers’ safety, the mall’s management decided to open 10 minutes earlier on May 16 to disperse the crowd. The crowds did not let up throughout the day, and store managers at some of the mall’s watch boutiques even had to double up as security guards to manage the influx of customers.

The results of the anniversary event was impressive. Nearly 100,000 shoppers visited New World Daimaru on May 16, with some 62% of shoppers making a purchase, resulting in one-day sales of RMB171 million, or about US$24 million, a rise of over a fifth compared to the same occasion in 2019.

Crowds in New World Daimaru on May 16, 2020

Queues in New World Daimaru on May 16, 2020

Online and offline

A few days after New World Daimaru’s anniversary event, a nationwide shopping day arrived. Because “520” is pronounced similarly to “I love you” in Mandarin, the date of May 20 has yet become a Valentine’s Day of sorts in China – or another shopping event in other words.

Many luxury brands staged “520” campaigns. Jaeger-LeCoultre, for instance, tapped on Jing Boran, a popular actor with over 23.6 million followers on Weibo, to debut the new Reverso One Red Wine. Mr Jing’s endorsement boosted sales at Jaeger-LeCoultre’s “We-boutique” on social media platform Wechat, and drew the attention of not just his fans, but also other celebrities who then purchased the watch.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso launch is just one example of e-commerce gaining traction during the pandemic, in response to much of the country being quarantined at home. Long sceptical of selling their high-end goods online, luxury brands began to do live-stream sales this year, and high-end watch brands were no exception. But as is the case in other markets where brands have dabbled in e-commerce, their goal in China goes is twofold: to generate sales online as well as visits to physical boutiques.

A few days before New World Daimaru’s anniversary event, a high-end watch brand began broadcasting on the mall’s live-stream channel, offering a discount for online pre-orders, with the deposit paid online but the balance paid later on at its physical store.

According to insiders, the same brand also encouraged shoppers who made enquiries at the boutique before May 16 to return during the mall’s anniversary event to take advantage of the promotional prices. As a result, the brand sold several hundred watches in its store on May 16, with sales totalling over RMB26 million, or about US$3.67 million.

Jing Boran in the Reverso One campaign. Photo – Jaeger-LeCoultre

The confluence of pent-up demand, e-commerce, specially-staged shopping events, as well as the general recovery in consumer spending has resulted in a better-than-expected showing for most watch brands in China.

In a recent video message to the Chinese watch press, retiring Longines chief executive Walter von Känel noted the brand’s sales in mainland China for the month of May already surpassed the tally for the same period last year. Meanwhile, people familiar with the matter revealed that Audemars Piguet exceeded its internal sales targets every month from January to May.

Coupled with diminished exports from Switzerland due to factory shutdowns, many brands now enjoy healthily-depleted storerooms, and a handful have sold so many watches their inventories have reached alarmingly low levels.

Ups and downs

The recovery is a striking turnaround from the dark days during the peak of the virus’ spread in January 2020 when the Chinese watch market cratered. Every segment of the market was hit – boutiques, authorised retailers, preowned dealers, and even daigou, traders who buy goods overseas for domestic clients.

The first to be hit were the boutiques and retailers, as all malls and shops had to close. According to a retailer in Shanghai, his month-on-month sales fell 85-95% at the height of the lockdown.

The daigou business also came to a complete halt, and many daigou providers are still unemployed. In the not-too-distant past, a daigou provider needed just two days to deliver a watch purchased in Hong Kong to the client in mainland China, but now anyone arriving from Hong Kong has to be quarantined for at least 14 days. And for goods purchased in Europe, the wait is now two months, compared to two to four weeks before the pandemic.

At the same time, the pandemic has also made the polarisation between brands even more obvious. This global trend is also evident in China, with the best-performing brands decisively pulling away from their peers, in both the primary and secondary watch market. Simultaneously, it has become clear that watchmakers with weak brand equity or products that lean towards exaggerated or quirky designs are stagnating.

Richard Mille, Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and other desirable brands were the least affected by the outbreak, reflecting the widespread view amongst Chinese consumers that a truly high-end luxury product retains its value well. According to several pre-owned watch dealers, Omega watches sold very well during the epidemic, due to the fact that Chinese consumers and daigou providers are unable to buy Omega watches abroad.

Popular models from such brands did see their secondary-market values dip during the worst of the lockdown, but only slightly. The Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” in steel for instance, which sells for a premium to retail on the secondary market, saw its value decline between RMB5,000 and RMB10,000 in March (equivalent to US$700-1,400). Values, however, have since recovered to their pre-pandemic levels.

Even specialist brands with a highly technical bent also seemed to have found an audience during the lockdown. Speaking in early March when the pandemic still loomed large, a retailer in Shenzhen, the massive city that borders Hong Kong, noted that “during the epidemic, A. Lange & Söhne is one of the brands that is still maintaining its performance”. He added, “Maybe it’s because people have to stay home, so they have more time to admire sophisticated movements”.

Still in demand

Spending cautiously

COVID-19 has been under control in China for several months, but people are generally pessimistic, especially about the economy. A common refrain in China now is “今年只有一个任务，活着”, or “There’s only one goal this year – survive”.

So why did the watch market pick up in May? A couple of factors are behind the turnaround.

One is delayed purchases – it’s a common habit to buy a luxury-watch during the Chinese Lunar New Year, which happened at the end of January this year. But the pandemic meant any planned purchases were put on hold. It’s likely that many who had planned to buy a watch already set the money aside, and then went ahead with the purchase in May, especially with promotional prices offered by brands and retailers.

Similarly, many weddings were postponed as a result of the lockdown, but are now back on track. Watches are a traditional wedding gift in China, so traditional, in fact, that wedding-gift watches are almost a necessity.

And because there will be practically no overseas travel for the foreseeable future, which also means no more daigou, consumers who once did the bulk of their luxury-goods shopping overseas now spend their money at home, where they now enjoy good service as well as discounts or other incentives.

The future

The recent COVID-19 outbreak in Beijing does not appear to have derailed the economic recovery in China, thanks to the government’s efficient and swift response, with several neighbourhoods locked down and millions of local residents tested. Dr Zhang Wenhong, the infectious disease expert leading Shanghai’s COVID-19 medical task force, has stated publicly the outbreak in Beijing is not a “second wave”.

But at the same time, Dr Zhang has repeatedly emphasised “the second wave of the epidemic will definitely happen in fall and winter”, which has given the populace ample opportunity to prepare themselves psychologically for prolonged uncertainty.

The strong consumer spending in May reflects the desire of China’s middle class to maintain their lifestyles, while also demonstrating the persistent demand for luxury goods. But as Dr Zhang was pointed out, the outlook over the longer term is cloudy, and Chinese consumers will likely moderate their spending in the medium term.

Based in Shanghai, the author is a journalist specialising in watches and the broader luxury industry. She contributes to titles in mainland China and Hong Kong, including Ellemen, Modern Weekly, Madame Figaro, and also shares her thoughts with her 250,000 followers on Weibo.

Early in the year, TAG Heuer unveiled the Carrera 160 Years Silver, a remake of the Carrera 2447S from 1964 – a watch many consider the quintessential vintage Heuer.

Continuing with the 160th anniversary commemoration, TAG Heuer has just debuted the the Carrera 160 Years Montreal Edition. Limited to 1000 pieces, the Montreal Edition has an eye-catching dial inspired by the funky Heuer Montreal (ref. 110503W) of 1972. The colours give a different dimensions to the Carrera 2447S, which was historically offered only in no-nonsense colours of black or silver.

Initial thoughts

At first glance, the Montreal Edition has a completely different personality compared to the Silver Edition that preceded it, despite both being essentially the same watch. While the latter is more restrained and somber with its monochromatic colours, the latest edition is fun and casual thanks to the colours taken from the white-dial Heuer Montreal (which was also available in black and blue).

I like my watches to be understated, so I prefer the Silver Edition, though I can see this version appealing to anyone who loves an extroverted watch. Overall, the watch is a great fusion of the Heuer Montreal and Carrera 2447S, combining the colours of the Montreal with the classic style of the Carrera.

The Heuer Montreal (left) and the Carrera 160 Years Montreal Edition

TAG Heuer did a good job of translating the key elements of the Montreal into the Carrera, such as the yellow accents on the minute counter and the alternating blue and red seconds scale. The colours are employed harmoniously and complement each other. But despite the bright colours, the dial remains balanced, uncluttered, and devoid of superfluous lettering on the dial.

The case is the same as the one found on the Silver Edition. It’s a modern take on the vintage Carrera 2447S with its distinctive bevelled lugs and fixed bezel design, but enlarged to 39 mm and 14.5 mm high, with some of the height accounted for by the domed, “box type” crystal. Having owned a watch with the same case, I can say the watch is quite compact on the wrist, and wears comfortably thanks to the lugs.

The movement

Visible through the case back is the in-house Heuer 02, the brand’s upper-end chronograph movement (as compared to the Heuer 01 based on the Seiko TC78 construction).

Relatively thin for a chronograph movement at 6.95 mm (the Heuer 01 is 7.30 mm by comparison), and boasts features like a vertical clutch and column wheel. The power reserve is a useful 80 hours, almost double of the industry norm.

Like the standard version of the movement, the decoration is industrial and no-frills, but here it features a rotor bearing the brand’s 160th anniversary emblem.

Key Facts and Price

TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years Montreal Edition
Ref. CBK221C.FC6488

Diameter: 39 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Heuer 02 
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 80 hours

Strap: Alligator with folding clasp

Limited edition: 1,000 pieces
Availability: From July 2020 at boutiques and authorised retailers
Price: 6,600 Swiss francs; or 9,550 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Tagheuer.com.

Longines is continuing its streak of affordable and handsome remakes of vintage watches, with the last big hit being the Heritage Classic “sector” dial, with the Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo”. Modelled on a 1940s chronograph powered by the cal. 13ZN, regarded by collectors as the brand’s best chronograph movement, the remake gets its nickname from the stylish black-and-white dial.

Initial thoughts

There’s almost nothing to criticise in the new chronograph. Aesthetically, it is spot on. The design is faithful to the original, smartly doing away with the much-derided extras of the date and “automatic” often found in remakes. It’s a moderate size, albeit a bit thick. The movement is modular, rather integrated. But it only costs US$3,000, which is excellent value for money.

More generally speaking – and this is criticism – Longines has rolled out several well-executed remakes in recent years, notching hit after hit. Paradoxically the success has made the Heritage remakes a little less appealing, just because there are so many of them – and most of them are pretty good. When the original Legend Diver was introduced in 2007, it was special, because the only affordable, good-looking remake. That said, it doesn’t take away anything from the watch itself; the new chronograph really is a compelling buy.

Two-tone and tachymetre

The Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo” manages to capture most of the elements of the original. The dial is in silver and black, with a dark blue tachymetric scale matched by blued steel hands for the chronograph and seconds.

More importantly, the proportions of the dial remain correct, despite the remake being larger and also powered by a modern movement. The twin registers are a good size and positioned just right.

At 40 mm the case is slightly larger than the original, which was probably 38 mm. The difference is more substantial in terms of case thickness, which is 13.6 mm. Part of the height is down to the domed sapphire crystal that mimics the look of the Plexiglas crystal of the original.

The remake

The 1940s original containing a 13ZN movement that’s in the Longines Museum

Inside the remake is the L895.5, the same movement found in the Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946. It’s a variant of the ETA A31.L21 customised – and upgraded – exclusively for Longines. The movement is comprised of an upgraded ETA 2892 with an ETA chronograph module on top. Amongst the upgrades are a silicon hairspring as well as an extended power reserve of 54 hours, compared to the 42 hours of the stock ETA 2892.

Key facts and price

Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph ‘Tuxedo’
Ref. L2.830.4.93.0

Case diameter: 40 mm
Height: 13.6 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: L895 (ETA A31.L21)
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds, and chronograph
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 54 hours

Strap: Calfskin with pin buckle

Availability: From Longines boutiques and retailers; delivery date to be determined
Price: US$3,000; or 4,530 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Longines.com

Correction June 29, 2020: The L895.5 contains an ETA chronograph module, and not a Dubois-Depraz chronograph module as stated in an earlier version of the article.

Update July 4, 2020: Case height added.

Everyone in watchmaking has been affected by the pandemic, brands and consumers alike. But in between the two are the retailers. To find out how the situation in unfolding for the key intermediary between brand and consumer, we spoke with Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi.

He is the Chief Commercial Officer of Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the luxury-watch pioneer established in 1950 that is now the biggest retailer in the Middle East. Beyond being a retailer, the Dubai-based company is also widely known for organising Dubai Watch Week, the biannual fair that brings watchmakers and industry personalities to the Emirate.

The interview was edited for clarity and length.

First, how did Seddiqi get through the lockdown?

It all happened very fast and came as a shock at first. The UAE government applied very strict rules immediately to protect the population and support the economy.

We underwent a strict lockdown of 40 days. For security reasons, we moved our inventory out of the malls into our headquarters. We quickly found out it was a good idea! Indeed, no matter that the whole state was in lockdown, people still reached out to us for watches. We started sending pictures to them and organising home deliveries. At the beginning to middle of March, we did one delivery a week, then it turned into a daily challenge.

What is amazing is that we did not get any order cancellations during the period. On the contrary, we saw people were getting bored at home, so online shopping increased. But we do not have an e-commerce platform at Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, so we created a dedicated team for home delivery. You could say the lockdown sparked our e-commerce! It came together so fast. The mood was very pragmatic, the decisions were taken within a few hours. And it worked very well.

As everyone is talking about “phygital” [physical and digital], what are you working on for e-commerce?

As you can see, our vision is that it is a bit early for pure e-commerce in the region. People like the luxury of actually going into a store and getting spoiled. We are trying to bring that experience to the consumer with our home delivery service, which is more of a 360-degree concierge service really. It starts over the phone, then with an e-catalogue. But in the end, people want to touch and feel the watches, especially for a high-end piece.

How is your reopening going?

Malls reopened three weeks ago but sanitary measures are still stringent for the healthy of our staff and our customers. We have heat detectors at the entrances of both the carpark and the mall, social distancing of 2 m is strictly enforced, and mask-wearing is mandatory.

What is great to see is that demand for watches is still very strong, even though the in-store traffic is restricted. By next week, business will be back to normal, as malls be open at full capacity.

Now, it is just up to each individual to take responsibility and continue to respect the common-sense rules of social distancing.

Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons owns the Rolex boutique in Dubai Mall, which is the world’s largest at over 9,000 square feet. Photo – Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons

The UAE is a destination reliant on travellers. Did you rely more on tourists or local clients before the shutdown? How is that going to play out in the future with international travel restricted until the end of the year or even until 2021? 

We are a growing city that’s very cosmopolitan. So obviously, we had a lot of tourists visiting us and that will impact our business to some extent as they represented 50% of our business. But we have always developed our business by focusing on our local community. 

This is our strength: our dedication to the family business and to our community. This is how we have built our business for the last 70 years. Now is the time to focus on them even more. We will educate more, present more, offer more services as well.

Have brands taken any steps to help you as a retailer?

We have great relations with our partner brands and they have all been very supportive. They agreed to delay payments when needed, to hold shipments if required. It is normal that everyone is very cautious about expenses in such an uncertain period, but it helps that our ties with our partners are very strong.

We even managed to get some deliveries during the lockdown. To be honest, our issue now is that we do not have enough stock for some brands since the re-opening.

The Hublot Classic Fusion Special Edition Bronze Anticlockwise, a limited edition made for Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons in 2019, which has hands that turn anticlockwise. Photo – Hublot

How do you see demand for mechanical watches at the moment? Do you see any developing trends for the future of retail?

Demand is surprisingly strong. It seems people still want to treat themselves and enjoy great watchmaking, which is great news!

We see the trend of the growing interest for independent watchmaking. Collectors enjoy more and more seeing the effort behind the product, meeting the man behind the watch. The success of Dubai Watch Week has helped a lot.

If you think about it, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe were independent watchmakers themselves when they started 150 years ago. They started with passion and know-how. Who knows who the next great ones will be? It is incredible if you are able to say that you actually worked with the founders when they started.

We have always favoured the human aspect of our business whether with our customers or our partners. This is what it is all about. This is how we are able to create a special edition with MB&F and H. Moser & Cie. that just launched last week to celebrate our 70th year of existence.

The LM101 MB&F x H. Moser with a pale blue dial made to mark the 70th anniversary of Ahmed Seddiqi & Son. Photo – MB&F

What do you see the retailer’s role evolving with the direct-to-consumer approach by many brands?

The market today is just one big worldwide playground. I have to admit that brands opening their own boutiques is a big challenge for retailers everywhere.

But, as our founder, my grandfather, always said, “To be relevant in this business, you have to be king in your own country.” We have built our business for 70 years now. We know our customers. We have strong relationships with every single one of them. We have deep and large networks. We have built trust – this is key.

The information we have gathered and the experience we offer is priceless. We have built many brands in the region and we believe human relationships and people are what really matters in the end.

It is true that it is a business and it is about numbers, but we never want to lose sight of this fundamental human aspect. This is what Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons will always stand for. We are convinced this is how we will remain relevant.

Correction June 23, 2020: Mr Seddiqi is the grandson of Ahmed Seddiqi, and not his son as stated in an earlier version of the article. We are sorry for the error.

Unveiled just a day ago, the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 6007A “New Manufacture 2019” is a commemorative edition for the completion of the brand’s huge headquarters in Geneva. Though it is a just time-and-date watch, the ref. 6007A has a few interesting details that set it apart from the typical Calatrava, and all the details come together nicely for a refreshingly modern – and expensive – Calatrava.

While the launch of the ref. 6007A was largely a surprise, in some other ways it wasn’t. When Patek Philippe debuted the Calatrava ref. 5212A Weekly Calendar a year ago, it was a quirky outlier amidst the formality of the Calatrava line.

But insiders revealed that the Weekly Calendar was a hint about the Calatrava’s future. While endowed with such a long history that “Calatrava” is almost a synonym for a thin, classical dress watch, the Calatrava line was getting old fashioned. Featuring hand-writing inspired markings on the dial, the Weekly Calendar marked a new design direction for the line. At the same time, the Calatrava collection has been trimmed significantly, leaving just four men’s Calatrava references (the refs. 5196, 5227, 5297, and 6006), and now the ref. 6007A.

The Calatrava ref. 6007A “New Manufacture 2019”

The Calatrava ref. 5212A Weekly Calendar

Initial thoughts

I like the look of the ref. 6007A. It doesn’t look like yet another silver-dial dress watch, which makes is especially appealing for anyone who already has a silver-dial dress watch. The dial is an appealing, metallic grey-blue that’s restrained, which also makes it hard to capture correctly.

A couple of features should have left out, namely the date and the faux-fabric, embossed-leather strap, and other elements should can be improved – shrinking the size of the basketweave pattern – but it is a handsome watch with a relaxed aesthetic that contrasts with the formality of most Calatrava watches.

On the wrist, it’s thin, light, and a good size at 40 mm and thin. The guilloche also gives it a distinct look even at arm’s length. And unusually for a watch of this type, it has excellent nighttime legibility thanks to generous Super-Luminova.

In the usual Patek Philippe style, every element of the watch is done well. No single element is best in class, but all of it is executed consistently to an excellent standard, albeit one that’s not exceptional. While technically refined, the movement in the ref. 6007A is not as highly decorated as a Lange caliber for instance, but the dial on the ref. 6007A is more elaborate than the typical silvered Lange dial. Put everything together and the ref. 6007A as a whole is greater than the sum of its parts.

That said, it is expensive for what it is, overly expensive if considering on its tangible features. With a retail price of 25,000 Swiss francs, it is priced far steeper than the competition.

But it’s a Patek Philippe, which like Hermes and Ferrari, is the most valuable in its industry. A good deal of that is the consequence of the careful and rigorously consistent development of the brand by its owners, the Sterns. The 600 million franc investment in the new factory that this watch commemorates illustrate the Stern family’s dedication to not just making watches, but building the brand and business.

Automative lineage

At first glance, the dial seems like a stark departure from the traditional Calatrava look. But the design is in fact modelled on the ref. 5000 launched in 1991.

With a stark, speedometer-like dial, the ref. 5000 was actually a departure from the prevailing aesthetic of the 1980s. According to someone who was working at Patek Philippe at the time, the design was automative inspired, having been created for a potential collaboration with Ferrari.

The Calatrava ref. 5000G. Photo – Sotheby’s

The Ferrari tie up never went ahead, because the two brands could not come to an agreement on certain specifics of the design (and Ferrari then struck an agreement with Girard-Perregaux in 1994). The ref. 5000 lived on as a limited edition and it turned out to be enough of a success that three variants were made, in white, yellow, and pink gold.

Then in 2005, Patek Philippe launched the enlarged version of the watch, the ref. 6000, which also incorporated a date function. And three years ago, the further-enlarged version, the ref. 6006, made its debut.

All shared a similar dial style that is now found in the ref. 6007A. All of the key elements are there, but rearranged and modified for a far more contemporary look.

The hour markers, for example, are the same radially-positioned Arabic numerals, but enlarged white gold appliqués instead of printed. And instead of the pointer date found on the refs. 6000 and 6006, the ref. 6007A has a date window at three, which sadly does get in the way of the dial symmetry.

And unlike the its predecessors that were mostly in black, the dial of the ref. 6007A is blue. It’s an appealing colour, but blue is fashionable at the moment, which makes this a little faddish too. But in time blue will not longer be the flavour of the day, and then this dial will seem a little more timeless.

Classical basketweave

Patek Philippe describes the guilloche in the centre of the dial as “carbon style”, and it’s the same motif found on the dials of the unique refs. 5208T and 5004T made for the Only Watch charity auction.

The pattern works better here than on the pair of one-off watches, because the ref. 6007A is a simple, modern-looking watch, whereas the two Only Watch examples had the “carbon style” motif retroactively added to the design.

Despite the name, the pattern is actually an old one, and usually known as basketweave. Widely found on watch dials, the pattern is used often by Breguet while American engine-turning specialist Joshua Shapiro has created his own proprietary variant that’s a nested basketweave.

While it origins lies in classical watchmaking, the scale of the pattern is modern and too large; the size of the basketweave is out of proportion with the other elements on the dial. Each “square” within the basketweave is almost as tall as the hour numerals. This was probably done to give the watch a more contemporary look by avoiding the Breguet-esque pocket watch style, but it comes at the expense of its aesthetic refinement.

The pattern is stamped, rather than engine turned, but it is neatly done. Doing it manually with a straight-line engine would have added another level of artisanal finesse to the watch, as well as 50% to the already-high retail price, so it is what it is.

More impressive are the hour numerals, which are applied and in 18k white gold. The hands are also solid gold, but lacquered in white, giving them excellent legibility. The gold hands and indices are fancy detail that elevates an entry-level steel watch, albeit an extremely expensive one. More importantly, applied Arabic numerals in gold are not usually found on entry-level watches of comparable brands. Instead, hour markers tend to be printed, or simply shaped if applied.

The case

At 40 mm in diameter, the ref. 6007A is the largest Calatrava in the range (along with the ref. 5212A that’s the same size). Though large by Calatrava norms, it’s a moderate size by modern standards, and it works well with the dial.

Importantly, the dial is smartly laid out, so the dial proportions look correct relative to the largish case. Filling the space between the date window and the edge of the dial with a wide minute track gives it a relatively balanced face, even though the movement is small compared to the case.

The case form is identical to the ref. 5000 and its descendants. Because it’s an extremely simple form, it still looks good despite having been enlarged from the 33 mm of the ref. 5000 to its current size.

The simple form is also a weakness because it’s, well, simple. It’s stamped and lacks any sort of flourish, but the case is robust for a thin case, which is always something Patek Philippe excels at.

But the strap is a letdown. Embossed to resemble fabric, the strap is actually calfskin. It’s thin and not particularly good looking, but fortunately the easiest bit to swap out.

The movement

The movement inside is a cal. 324 S C that sits under a display back but isn’t easily examined because of the logo on the sapphire window. Patek Philippe isn’t in the habit of engraving any marks on the rims of its display backs, hence the printing, which is too big and rendered in unattractive typography.

In case you forget the occasion

It’s a standard cal. 324 S C, a long-lived and reliable movement that’s been upgraded over the years, most notably with a Spiromax silicon hairspring. That said, using the new cal. 26-330 (a further upgraded version of the cal. 324), would have been a welcome bonus.

In terms of aesthetics and decoration it is similar to other industrially finished, high-end movements in the price range, like those made by Audemars Piguet for instance. Everything is taken care of – right down to polished countersinks and chamfered spokes on wheels – but mostly by machines, with a handful of flourishes like sharp outward corners on some bridges.

Intriguingly, the movement finishing is better than examples of the cal. 324 from several years ago. Specifically, the anglage, or polished bevels, on the bridges is rounded and smoother. While faint machining marks on the bevels can be discerned up close, they are not as apparent as on earlier examples. Similarly, the countersinks appear wider and more polished.

The four-armed Gyromax balance wheel

The emblem of the Patek Philippe Seal engraved on the bridge for the fourth and escape wheels

Notice that the edges of the recesses on the base plate are also gently bevelled

All of the jewels, screws, and pins sit in prominent, polished countersinks

The large Calatrava cross engraved in a CNC mill – the milling marks are visible within – but it is beautifully done

Concluding thoughts

For anyone who wants a Calatrava that’s a bit livelier, and sporty-ish without being a sports watch, then the ref. 6007A makes sense – price aside. Relative to its intrinsic qualities, the price is high.

But this is a Patek Philippe and a limited edition of just 1,000. By the benchmark of rarity and desirability, it’s a compelling buy.

Key facts and price

Patek Philippe Calatrava “New Manufacture 2019”
Ref. 6007A-001

Case diameter: 40 mm
Height: 10.34 mm
Material: Steel
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 324 S C
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Calfskin with embossed motif

Limited edition: 1,000 pieces
Availability: At both retailers and boutiques
Price: 25,000 Swiss francs; 37,400 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Patek.com.

Correction June 23, 2020: The Ferrari-Patek Philippe collaboration did not take place as both brands could agree on certain design elements, and not for reasons related to branding as stated earlier.