Longines is continuing its streak of affordable and handsome remakes of vintage watches, with the last big hit being the Heritage Classic “sector” dial, with the Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo”. Modelled on a 1940s chronograph powered by the cal. 13ZN, regarded by collectors as the brand’s best chronograph movement, the remake gets its nickname from the stylish black-and-white dial.

Initial thoughts

There’s almost nothing to criticise in the new chronograph. Aesthetically, it is spot on. The design is faithful to the original, smartly doing away with the much-derided extras of the date and “automatic” often found in remakes. It’s a moderate size, albeit a bit thick. The movement is modular, rather integrated. But it only costs US$3,000, which is excellent value for money.

More generally speaking – and this is criticism – Longines has rolled out several well-executed remakes in recent years, notching hit after hit. Paradoxically the success has made the Heritage remakes a little less appealing, just because there are so many of them – and most of them are pretty good. When the original Legend Diver was introduced in 2007, it was special, because the only affordable, good-looking remake. That said, it doesn’t take away anything from the watch itself; the new chronograph really is a compelling buy.

Two-tone and tachymetre

The Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo” manages to capture most of the elements of the original. The dial is in silver and black, with a dark blue tachymetric scale matched by blued steel hands for the chronograph and seconds.

More importantly, the proportions of the dial remain correct, despite the remake being larger and also powered by a modern movement. The twin registers are a good size and positioned just right.

At 40 mm the case is slightly larger than the original, which was probably 38 mm. The difference is more substantial in terms of case thickness, which is 13.6 mm. Part of the height is down to the domed sapphire crystal that mimics the look of the Plexiglas crystal of the original.

The remake

The 1940s original containing a 13ZN movement that’s in the Longines Museum

Inside the remake is the L895.5, the same movement found in the Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946. It’s a variant of the ETA A31.L21 customised – and upgraded – exclusively for Longines. The movement is comprised of an upgraded ETA 2892 with an ETA chronograph module on top. Amongst the upgrades are a silicon hairspring as well as an extended power reserve of 54 hours, compared to the 42 hours of the stock ETA 2892.

Key facts and price

Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph ‘Tuxedo’
Ref. L2.830.4.93.0

Case diameter: 40 mm
Height: 13.6 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: L895 (ETA A31.L21)
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds, and chronograph
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 54 hours

Strap: Calfskin with pin buckle

Availability: From Longines boutiques and retailers; delivery date to be determined
Price: US$3,000; or 4,530 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Longines.com

Correction June 29, 2020: The L895.5 contains an ETA chronograph module, and not a Dubois-Depraz chronograph module as stated in an earlier version of the article.

Update July 4, 2020: Case height added.