As it was with independent watchmaking, 2020 was a surprisingly good year for the establishment brands. Even though there were practically no in-person launches of new products – with the notable exception being Watches & Wonders in Shanghai – mainstream watchmakers did still debut notable timepieces.

Here’s my take on the standouts of the year, starting with the might FB 2RE from Ferdinand Berthoud, a niche name that is nonetheless a subsidiary of Chopard (and the pet project of its co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele). Magnificent both in mechanics and decoration, the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE is the watch of the year.

Clearly developed a no-expense spared wristwatch, the FB 2RE is at heart a time-only watch constructed for chronometric perfection. It’s equipped with both a a remontoir d’egalite as well as chain and fusee in order to ensure a constant output of energy from the barrel, as well as a constant delivery of energy into the escapement.

Both of its key feature are put on show in the symmetrical and architecturally expansive movement, which has all of its key components sitting above the main plate.

The FB-RE.FC movement

Located just below the balance wheel, the remontoir is particularly fine, made up of slender steel components that are clearly artisanal in manufacture and finish. The quality of finishing extends to the rest of the movement, which is impeccably decorated in every single aspect. In fact, the quality of the movement is comparable to that of the very best independent watchmakers, including Greubel Forsey and Voutilainen.

The remontoir in the FB 2RE that’s centred on a Reuleaux triangle made of synthetic ruby

The FB 2RE in white gold

But the FB 2RE is not the prettiest watch from the front. Being derived from a marine chronograph, the dial is functional and fuss free, but attractive enough. The case, however, is chunky and feels more massive than it is, a sensation that is accentuated by the short, wide lugs.

That said, the FB 2RE is a remarkable timepiece and the year’s best.

The complicated and simple

The most notable complicated watch of year was an easy choice. Powered by the GS 36-750 PS IRM movement derived from the calibre in the Grandmaster Chime uber-complication, the Patek Philippe ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie is a grande and petite sonnerie carillon, chiming the time as it passes on three pairs of hammers and gongs, while also having a deadbeat seconds.

The GS 36-750 PS IRM in the ref. 6301P. Photo – Patek Philippe

The movement is composed of 703 parts, and designed to be more artful than the typical Patek Philippe movement, with its bridges incorporating several sharp, inward angles on their edges. Unsurprisingly, it costs well over a million francs, but the watch was pre-sold – and the initial run sold out – even before it was announced.

Technically impressive in another vein, but impressive all the same is the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept. A watch with a simplicity that belies its technical achievement, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, or AUC, is the thinnest mechanical watch ever, bar none. Standing just 2 mm high in totality, the AUC is uncannily thin, thin enough that wearing one is a strange sensation that’s more like strapping on a watch cut from a thick sheet of paper.

The AUC. Photo – Piaget

Its slimness is the result of clever engineering in the movement – the balance wheel is “floating” and anchored on at its bottom pivot – as well as novel materials, like the cobalt alloy used for the ultra-rigid case. The AUC does, however, come with an extremely large price tag starting at about 400,000 Swiss francs, which is difficult to swallow but probably justifiable given the extreme engineering in the watch.

Like the AUC, the Chanel J12 X-Ray is a time-only watch, but one that’s even more preposterously expensive – but also ridiculously cool. Costing US$626,000, the J12 X-Ray is a limited edition created to mark the 20th anniversary of Chanel’s signature wristwatch.

The first watch ever to be made almost entirely in sapphire crystal – the case, dial, movement bridges, and every link of the bracelet – the J12 X-Ray is proof of both Chanel’s prowess in case making, as well as its increasingly accomplished movement development.

The J12 X-Ray. Photo – Chanel

Another time-only watch of 2020 that is distinctive accomplishes that purely in form. The Cartier Privé Tank Asymétrique is a gently modernised remake of a 1930s Cartier wristwatch historically known as the “parallélogramme” or “lozenge”, after its skewed, asymmetric case.

Elegant and quirky in a way that is typical of the jeweller, the Tank Asymétrique is more expensive than such a time-only watch should be – the platinum version costs almost as much as the Lange just below – but there is no doubt value in its design.

The Tank Asymétrique. Photo – Cartier

Value buys

It is difficult to conceive of a US$34,400 watch that is good value, but the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Thin Honeygold  “Homage to F.A. Lange” is indeed that. For one, it’s a Lange, and so has all of the quality that make the brand special. And it’s been enhanced with a fired enamel dial – it’s been almost two decades since Lange last installed an enamel dial on a time-only watch – as well as a Honeygold case.

The 1815 Thin, just 6.3 mm high

One of a trio created to mark the brand’s 175th anniversary, the 1815 Thin is also powered by a movement featuring a decoration exclusive to the commemorative watches. Inspired by 19th century pocket watches, the movement has its bridges frosted while all of the engraving is filled with dark-grey lacquer.

Though the ultra-thin nature of the watch is not quite as characteristic of Lange as say Piaget or Jaeger-LeCoultre, the 1815 Thin is a compelling buy.

The L093.1 in the 1815 Thin

A simple watch executed well sums up the Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo“. Like many of Longines’ other vintage remakes the “Tuxedo” is strong value – the retail is just US$3,000 – but it sets itself apart in the details. The dial and hands, for instance, are particularly well done, with the finely-shaped hands matched with a dial that has all the right typography and proportions.

The Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo”

The Royal Day-Date in several flavours

And an honourable mention that doesn’t make the cut for the best – the Tudor Royal Day-Date. Possessed of at terrific quality-to-price ratio – the case and integrated bracelet are excellent, while the retail price is not much over US$2,000 – the Royal has an old-fashioned design that could be so much better. It’s a bit of a missed opportunity, but perhaps, like much else in the world, it might get better in 2021.

Established in 2014, Cramain recently unveiled its first wristwatch, the Mark II Constant Force. Technically the brand’s second model – the Mark I was never commercialised – the Mark II is a hand-wound, time-only wristwatch equipped with a 20-second remontoir, and produced almost entirely by Kilian Leschnik, one half of the founding duo, the other being Dr Julian M. Stiels, a Swiss medical doctor with a keen interest in watches.

Just 28 years old, Mr Leschnik completed his watchmaking studies in 2016. But the German watchmaker was already working on his own wristwatch in 2014, a timepiece that evolved out of his school watch. Cramain is a means to “live his dream as a mechanical artist”, says Mr Leschnik.

Mr Leschnik and Dr Stiels developed the Mark II together, with Dr Stiels having taught himself computer-aided design, allowing him to construct do the construction of the watch and its movement. Starting two years ago, Dr Stiels has made Cramain his full-time calling.

The pair are the sole owners of the brand, which is entirely self-funded. Part of it was made possible by prototyping work Mr Leschnik has done for various Swiss watch brands.

Initial thoughts

Impressive in both function and fabrication, the Mark II is evidently a wristwatch of extremely high quality, and one created by a watchmaker with a dedication to quality in form and finish.

The Mark II’s design is a contemporary techno-mechanical style that is reminiscent of Greubel Forsey, which works in its favour given the latter’s esteemed reputation for finishing.

The Mark II does cost a lot of money, with a price tag that’s just shy of US$180,000 for the version in white gold. That’s a lot, but fair for the complication and quality.

It is, however, higher than the norm for a young watchmaker making his debut, albeit with a watch that is more complicated and finer than the norm. As a result, the buyer of such a watch is not only buying a watch but also making a bet on the brand’s vision and longevity.

Remontoir

Measuring a fairly compact 39.5 mm in diameter and 11.7 mm high, the Mark II is simple in function – showing only the hours, minutes, and seconds – but elaborated upon with a 20-second remontoir d’egalite made up of 35 parts.

The remontoir sits under the V-shaped bridge at six o’clock

Mounted on the seconds wheel and visible at six o’clock on the dial, the constant force mechanism is of Cramain’s own design, but shares similarities with the remontoir invented by Robert Gafner, an instructor at the La Chaux-de-Fonds watchmaking school in the 1940s. Best known for being used by the late Derek Pratt in his tourbillons and more recently Ferdinand Berthoud in its masterful FB 2RE, the Gafner remontoir relies on a escape lever and Reuleaux triangle.

But Cramain developed upon Gafner’s idea by incorporating hooked teeth on each of the points of the Reuleaux triangle in order to improve its function – which is charging and releasing three times a minute to ensure a constant flow to energy to the escapement, and thus stable timekeeping throughout the movement’s running time.

The Cramain remontoir, with the Reuleaux triangle just visible under the V-shaped bridge

Hand made

Practically the entire watch is made by Cramain, with only the springs, jewels, and sapphire crystals purchased from suppliers. In fact, Cramain states in the press release for the Mark II: “No external companies are involved in the design, construction, manufacturing or finishing process.”

Beyond being in house, the Mark II is made up of 267 components – 235 of which are hand made the old fashioned way, which means no automated equipment.

Working from a workshop in Villingen-Schwenningen, a town in southern Germany about 90 minutes from Zurich by car – he studied watchmaking at the town’s technical school, Staatliche Feintechnikschule – Mr Leschnik makes the components equipment that is operated by hand. Amongst the pieces of equipment in the workshop are Hauser jig borers and SIXIS milling machines, according to Dr Stiels.

Even the applied hour numerals are hand made on a pantograph. First the feet are cut, then the shape of the numeral, and finally its bevelled edges. And then each numeral is finished by hand.

A drawing of the applied numeral for “2”

Like the production methods, the materials that make up the movement are traditional – German silver, steel, titanium, and gold – and finished by hand. According to Cramain, the movement is decorated with a near-exhaustive list of finishing techniques, including anglage, black polishing, and graining.

The Mark II is a limited edition of 12 watches, with the option of several case materials. Cramain has already sold the first watch, which will be finished in the second half of 2021.

Key facts and price

Cramain Mark II Constant Force

Diameter: 39.5 mm
Height: 11.7 mm
Material: Platinum, 18k white or gold gold, or titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Mk II CF
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and 20-second remontoir
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Winding: Hand-wind
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Suede with 18k white gold buckle

Limited edition: 12 pieces
Availability: Direct from Cramain, with first watch scheduled for the second half of 2021, and subsequent watches taking three to fives months to complete
Price: Titanium – CHF152,000; white gold – CHF158,000; platinum – CHF154,000

Prices exclude taxes 

For more, visit Cramain.com.

Updated December 31, 2020: Additional photos, as well as prices of the titanium and platinum versions, added.

Taking place at the end of the third week of January 2021, the first major international watch auction is Antiquorum’s Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces in Monaco. The 304-lot auction will be capped by an appropriately major watch – the very first Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Île Grand Complication that was produced for the watchmaker’s 250th anniversary in 2005.

First sold for 1.88 million Swiss francs at the Quarter Millennium of Vacheron Constantin thematic auction staged by Antiquorum and Vacheron Constantin in April 2005, the Tour de l’Ile was one of the first mega-complications of the modern era. When the Tour de l’Ile was launched, the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002 was only three years old, the Lange Tourbograph had yet to be launched, and Greubel Forsey had only been founded a year earlier.

At its launch, the Tour de l’Ile was billed as the world’s most complicated wristwatch – and also became the most expensive wristwatch sold at auction – thanks to its 16 complications displayed on two faces in a case 47 mm wide and almost 18 mm tall.

Named after the location of Vacheron Constantin’s workshop in the 18th and 19th centuries – Tour de l’Ile literally translates as “tower on the island” – the wristwatch is powered by the 834-component cal. 2750. It features a minute repeater, perpetual calendar with moon phase, star chart, celestial annual calendar, tourbillon, sunrise and sunset times, equation of time, power reserve indicator, second time zone with day and night display.

Eight examples of the Tour de l’Ile were made – with seven sold and the last piece retained by Vacheron Constantin for its museum – all with a silver dial and rose gold case, save for this very watch. Both watch “No. 1” as well as a piece unique, this is has black guilloche dials on both its front and back, this is the best-looking version of the Tour de l’Ile, and also unusual amongst grand complications, where silver dials are the norm.

Vacheron Constantin subsequently iterated on the Tour de l’Ile movement to develop the cal. 2755, which has been found in several subsequent grand complications, Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Phoenix and the recent Grand Complication Split-Seconds Chronograph “Tempo”.

Though distinct from the Tour de l’Ile, the later watches are similar in being double-faced grand complications, which does take away slightly from the unique status of the original. But given how much retail prices have risen since 2005, the Tour de l’Ile is something of a bargain with an estimate similar to what it sold for 15 years ago.

The Tour de l’Ile has an estimate of €1.5-2.5 million, or about US$1.8-3.0 million. It’s lot 304 in the Antiquorum Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces auction that takes place on January 24, 2021 in Monaco. For more, visit Antiquorum.swiss.

Twenty-twenty was a surprisingly good year in independent watchmaking – despite everything – with a fair number of compelling creations by watchmakers of all stripes. From Bernard Lederer at the top to Stefan Sarpaneva at the other end of the price spectrum, the watchmakers showed that the world of independent horology continued to turn in an abnormal year. Here’s a roundup of the best of 2020, led by the impressive and expensive, but also including the eminently affordable.

In terms of pure technical achievement, Bernhard Lederer’s Central Impulse Chronometer is hard to top. Building on the work of George Daniels and Abraham Louis Breguet, Mr Lederer constructed a movement equipped with a double natural escapements, each with its own remontoir and powered by its own going train.

While the design of the watch doesn’t do justice to the mechanics, the movement is outstanding. In fact, the only other watch in 2020 comparable to the Central Impulse Chronometer was surprisingly from an establishment brand, or more specifically a subsidiary of a big name, the FB 2RE by Ferdinand Berthoud, which has Chopard as its parent comment.

The movement of the Central Impulse Chronometer. Photo – Bernhard Lederer

Also conceived with chronometry in mind, the new Chronomètre à Résonance movement is very much a new and improved version of the original, which has become the hallmark watch of F.P. Journe. Now featuring a remontoir d’egalite for each going train – which means constant power to the balances operating in resonance – the new Résonance also has better ergonomics, with the crown for winding and setting now at two o’clock.

And next is a trio that are similar – all are essentially time-only watches – but each with its own novel twist. The debut watch of two young watchmakers, the Petermann Bédat 1967 has an elaborately constructed deadbeat-seconds mechanism powered by a secondary escapement. Though the movement aesthetic is obviously classical – the deadbeat seconds is modelled on a 1940s invention – the dial of the 1967 smartly incorporates vintage elements on a modern design.

The 1967

With the secondary escapement for the deadbeat seconds visible over the three-quarter plate

Likewise, the Marco Lang Zweigesicht-1 is the first watch of a new brand, but one established by a well known watchmaker. Best known as the founder of Lang & Heyne, Marco Lang is now once again a one-man show. His first creation is a two-faced watch that can be worn on either side thanks to removable lugs.

The movement side of the watch reveals the symmetrically-laid out movement that’s finished by hand in the manner expected of Mr Lang. And it also incorporates an intriguing shock indicator of Mr Lang’s own invention that is composed of finely-wrought and hand-finished components that is probably more beautiful than useful.

The movement side of the Zweigesicht-1. Photo – Marco Lang

The movement of the 30CP. Photo – Christian Lass

And the third watch is the Christian Lass 30CP. A watchmaker at the Patek Philippe Museum for several years before striking out on his own, Mr Lass is now back home in Denmark making watches under his own name. The 30CP is modelled on fine gentlemen’s wristwatches of the 1940s, with a design and finish to match.

Though classical in every aspect, the 30CP has an unusual addition to the movement: a hairspring adjuster that’s essentially an arm pivoting on a ruby ball, a miniaturised version of something A.-L. Breguet installed in some of his marine chronometers in the 19th century.

Something dramatically different was courtesy of Konstantin Chaykin. The Russian watchmaker unveiled the Mars Conqueror Mk 3 Fighter, a spaceship-like wristwatch that is literally extraterrestrial – it can tell the time on the Red Planet, where a Martian day, or sol, is 24 hours, 39 minutes and 35 seconds long.

The Mars Conqueror Mk 3 Fighter. Photo – Konstantin Chaykin

The best entrant by an independent watchmaker in the crowded luxury-sports watch space, the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Chronograph combines an original case and bracelet design with the smartly constructed chronograph movement developed by Geneva complications Agenhor. Priced well for what it is, the Streamliner also proves it’s still possible to be different in the integrated-bracelet sports watch space.

The Streamliner on the wrist of Edouard Meylan, chief executive of H. Moser & Cie.

Enticingly accessible

The winner in affordable independent watchmaker is the S.U.F. Helsinki Sarpaneva x Moomin, which boasts an elaborately made dial depicted a troll from the Finnish cartoon strip Moomin.

Cut by machine but finished by hand, the dial is generously painted with several colours of Super-Luminova, giving it a brilliant nighttime appearance. Add to that Mr Sarpaneva’s high-quality case made of Finnish steel alloy – S.U.F. is his brand of affordable timepieces – and the Moomin wristwatch is a unconventional timepiece that demonstrates the versatility of independent watchmaking.

The Moomin watch in its Technicolor glory

Neither a brand nor a watchmaker, but very much independent, the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH) is one of the world’s leading timepiece museums. To raise funds for restoration of its collection, the MIH unveiled the MIH Gaïa, a wristwatch was created with the help of specialists located in its hometown. Priced modestly but enhanced by good details and a smart design, the Gaïa is an uncommon combination of an original product backed by a good cause.

The MIH Gaïa watch

Though not a watchmaker strictly speaking – at least not yet – Scottish enameller Anordain recently unveiled the Model 1 Fumé. A refined version of its first wristwatch, the new Model 1 features a hand-made dial in translucent fired enamel over a hammered metal base. It’s both a material and look that ordinarily costs far more, but is offered here for a notably affordable price while being high quality.

Like Anordain, Sartory Billard focuses its efforts on the dial, resulting in an affordable watch with a surprisingly elaborate dial. Each Sartory Billard SB04 has a dial that’s largely made by founder Armand Billard, most often with a base of polished metal overlaid with a skeletonised and customised chapter ring for the hours.

The SB04 with a blued titanium dial

And lastly, despite not having much by way of technical achievement, the Louis Erard Le Régulateur Vianney Halter is appealing in offering a little bit of Mr Halter’s signature style for a little under US$4,000. More broadly, it’s proof of how a previously staid brand has been rejuvenated with a little creativity, with credit going to Manuel Emch, the former chief executive of RJ-Romain Jerome who was recruited as a consultant two years ago.

As the year winds down, I’d like to thank everyone for reading. And I want to revisit a few of the best stories of the year – if you haven’t read them, they are worth a look.

These are not the most-read stories, which are inevitably concerned with watches from the biggest brands. Rather, the best stories are of the sort that I myself appreciate: an in-depth look at topics that might be unexpected or intriguing. I loved these articles and trust you will too.

Watchmaking

Although time has flowed in the same manner since the start of the universe, mankind’s perception and use of draft has evolved, most drastically during the Industrial Revolution, when time came to govern all aspects of life, a phenomenon explained by Alvin Chong.

Time, as it happens, has been crucial to medical care for over four millennia, as Dr Andrew Hantel explained in his history of the pulsations chronograph, starting with Louis Moinet’s invention of the stopwatch until the modern-day smartwatch.

Continuing with the chronograph, but now rewriting its history: Dr Christian Müller documented the first flyback-chronograph wristwatch, a 1929 Longines that he owns, which also happens to be the first-ever two-button wristwatch chronograph.

A Patek Philippe ref. 5004R with a special-order pulsations dial; the first photo shows its movement

And then there was also the end of history in a sense: Alan Downing told the story of how the observatory chronometer trial, revived in 2009 as the Concours International de Chronométrie, met its demise due to lack of participation by leading brands.

But still there is cause for optimism as watchmaking is being encouraged in unexpected places. I visited Cambodia’s first watchmaking school, a top-of-the-line facility sponsored by the charitable arm of a local real estate conglomerate. Run entirely by former staff from Switzerland’s WOSTEP, the school is the most ambitious horological education project anywhere in the world in recent years.

The Prince Horology Vocational Training Center in Phnom Penh

Technical topics

The year’s top technical story was the detailed evaluation of several dozen watch movements by Tim Lake and Brandon Moore, in parts I and II. The pair calculated the individual Horological Density Factor (HDF) of each calibre, essentially breaking down how each movement performs in terms of timekeeping relative to its size and power reserve.

The cal. 4130 in the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona is two decades old, but has been progressively upgraded over its life, including with an intriguing, flower-like wheel for the chronograph produced by UV-LIGA – and Richard Lee explained what it is.

The LIGA wheel in the cal. 4130. Photo – Rolex

Richard also delved into the middle temperature error, Barraud’s weight, and the marine chronometer – the problem, solution, and context of a historical and esoteric topic in watchmaking.

Chua Meng Shuen explained the deadbeat seconds, a deceptively simple complication that comes in many forms with varying degrees of complexity, ranging from the star-and-flirt to remontoir.

The secondary escapement for the deadbeat seconds in the Petermann Bedat 1967

Independents

In a rare look into the world of commissioning a unique watch from an independent watchmaker, Bjorn Meijer took us along the journey of having Svend Andersen build two one-off world time watches, explaining in great detail how each and every element was discussed, refined, and conceived with the watchmaker.

An Urban Jürgensen tourbillon pocket watch by Derek Pratt

With input from Dr Helmut Crott, I detailed the tourbillon pocket watches made by the late, great Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen & Sønner, some of which incorporated a constant-force escapement within the tourbillon.

Something that will be the basis of a future story is the unfinished George Daniels pocket watch on display in the Clockmakers’ Museum in London. Now owned by the charitable trust established by Daniels, the watch will eventually be completed by Roger W. Smith one day, and then sold to benefit the trust.

Unveiled earlier in the year to mark the 175th anniversary of the founding of A. Lange & Söhne, the 1815 Thin Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange” is one of a three-piece set created for the occasion, along with the Tourbograph Perpetual and 1815 Rattrapante.

The 1815 Thin is a simple watch done well. Like the rest of the anniversary editions, the 1815 Thin has a Honeygold case, and more unusually, an enamel dial, a feature that’s rarely found on entry-level Lange watches. And for those reasons, the 1815 Thin is surprisingly good value, despite being a pricey timepiece.

Initial thoughts

Though it costs a substantial amount of money, the 1815 Thin is actually strong value. To start with, it’s an A. Lange & Söhne – which means sterling quality – and also a limited edition, with the case in an unusual metal, plus a dial in fired enamel.

Though it’s the largest run in the anniversary line up, the 1815 Thin is a limited edition of just 175 pieces. And though Lange has made several limited editions in Honeygold – which costs substantially more than ordinary gold to machine – the cumulative number of watches in the metal is fairly small, at just over 1,000.

The 175th Anniversary “Homage to F.A. Lange” trio in Honeygold – (from left) 1815 Thin, Tourbograph Perpetual, and 1815 Rattrapante

Enamel dials are also uncommon for Lange, and decidedly rare in a time-only watch. The last time Lange offered a time-only watch with an enamel dial was 19 years ago with the Langematik Anniversary. All recent watches with enamel dials are complicated and expensive – like the 1815 Tourbillon or one-off Homage to Walter Lange in steel – or extremely complicated and extremely expensive.

Beyond its intrinsic features, the watch also looks good on the wrist. At 38 mm it is sized just right, unlike its bigger counterpart that feels a bit too wide relative to the thinness of the case. And though the dial is a stark white expanse, it looks interesting enough thanks to the contrast between the colours of the case and dial.

One weakness of the watch is a philosophical one – ultra-thin watches are not quintessentially Lange, a brand better known for its complicated and heavily engineered watches. And by the same token, the movement, while finely finished and attractive – replete with details like the polished teeth of the exposed wheels – is straightforward and not particularly interesting.

More broadly, the concept of the 175th anniversary editions make sense, since 175 years is an anniversary that makes sense to celebrate. The 165th anniversary of a decade ago was a peculiar milestone to commemorate, and perhaps driven by the need for a hit product in an economically-difficult period, coming just after the financial crisis of 2008.

In summary, for the US$35,000 or so retail price, the 1815 Thin is a compelling buy.

Honey and enamel

First used a decade ago in the 165th Anniversary Homage to F.A. Lange set, Honeygold is a gold alloy that’s a visually a cross between yellow and rose gold. It has an unusual colour that’s a little more muted than ordinary gold alloys, while also having a magenta tinge under certain light.

Beyond its colour, the metal also has useful physical properties. According to Lange, Honeygold is created by alloying gold with silicon, along with other metals, which also results in increased hardness. That in turn renders Honeygold cases far more costly to fabricate. Lange development chief Anthony de Haas once explained to me that the drill bits used to mill Honeygold cases wear out at the same rate as those used for platinum cases, explaining the price premium relative to yellow gold.

The metal’s appeal also lies in its uncommon nature. Exclusive to Lange in watchmaking – the alloy is presumably supplied by a specialist that sells it to firms in other industries – Honeygold has only been used for the cases of 1,325 Lange watches, an exceedingly small number over a decade.

Material aside, the case is traditionally Lange in style. It features a brushed case band against a polished bezel and lugs, along with details that refine the look, namely the chamfered edges of the lugs as well as the small step at the base of the bezel.

Notably, the back is secured with screws, a more robust set up that’s the norm for all Lange cases, instead of the snap-on back that is typical for ultra-thin watches since it helps reduce the minimum case thickness.

The dial of the watch is a bright white enamel that’s done well, with a smooth, glossy surface and neat printing. Admittedly the dial isn’t extraordinary, but the quality is excellent.

Ultra-thin

Recognisable as a Lange movement, the L093.1 is nonetheless different from the typical calibre. It’s been decorated in a style unique to the 175th Anniversary watches.

Two elements set it apart in an obvious manner – the frosted finish on the three-quarter plate, instead of the usual striping, as well as the grey-lacquer filling of the engraving on the plate as well as balance cock. The result is a look that’s slightly more muted than the average Lange movement – and more evocative of 19th German century pocket watches – but still as refined, especially in its details.

All of the engraving on the movement is filled with dark grey lacquer

The engraving on the balance cock is similarly filled, though the colour is less obvious due to the rhodium plating

Just below the balance wheel sits the bridge for the pallet lever, which is narrow but finished well

Though the movement is simple, everything is properly decorated. The border between the frosted top of the three-quarter plate and its polished bevels is particularly fine, and interrupted only by the black-polished cap for the escape wheel jewel. A handful of other details stand out, including the jewels for the going train, all of which are in screwed gold chatons, as well as the finely-shaped regulator index.

But movement nerds will note the most unusual detail – the exposed crown and barrel ratchet wheels. Hidden under the three-quarter plate in nearly all other Lange movements, the two wheels are visible due to the slimness of the movement, which dictates a construction that reveals the two wheels.

While unusual for Lange, the two exposed wheels bring the advantage of being able to admire two well-finished components that are ordinarily hidden. Both the winding click and click spring are black polished, while the wheels are circular grained while also having bevelled, polished teeth.

The two wheels are also finished differently here as compared to the standard version of the L093.1, which has its wheels finished with radial graining. The circular graining on the anniversary version of the movement is arguably more appealing visually, as it renders the finishing on the teeth more obvious.

Concluding thoughts

The 1815 Thin is an extremely simple watch, but one that is executed well and expensively, both in terms of materials and finish. Despite that, it is priced well. It’s not quite affordable, but is certainly accessible for a Lange, and one of the best values in terms of high-end, time-only watches for the year.

Key facts and price

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Thin Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange”
Ref. 239.050

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 6.3 mm
Material: 18k Honeygold
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: L093.1
Functions: Hours and minutes
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Hand-wind
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Leather with 18k Honeygold pin buckle

Limited edition: 175 pieces
Availability: At boutiques and retailers
Price: US$34,400; or €32,200 including 19% German VAT

For more, visit Alange-soehne.com.

Correction December 24, 2020: The L093.1 movement is entirely in house and does not  share components with other movements as stated in an earlier version of the article. 

Marco Lang is now an independent watchmaker in the literal sense, having left Lang & Heyne last year. He’s set up a one-man workshop in his hometown of Dresden, and has just announced the first watch of his newly-established eponymous brand – Marco Lang

Mr Lang’s first creation is the Zweigesicht-1, a highly-finished, time-only wristwatch with a few novel twists. Zwei gesicht is a literal description of the watch, translating as “two face” – the watch has the time display on both sides, with easily removable lugs that allow it to be worn on either side.

The Zweigesicht-1 worn movement side up

Initial thoughts

As a watchmaker known for a devotion to old-school quality, Mr Lang’s second act promised to be noteworthy. The Zweigesicht-1 appears to live up to expectations, being a simple watch executed in an elaborate manner and finished by hand to a high standard.

Harsh sounding to non-German speakers, the Zweigesicht-1 is ironically intricately constructed and finished. But unlike his earlier work that was modelled on pocket watch movements, the Caliber ml-01 looks modern and original, while still incorporating finely-shaped components as well as gears made of solid, 14k gold.

The contrast of the steel bridges against the rose gold-plated base plate is jarring – especially with the aggressively pointed bridges with border outlines – but there’s not mistaking the quality, even in images, because Mr Lang knows what he’s doing.

The chapter ring for the time display on the movement side is solid silver and filled with translucent blue vitreous enamel

Though the case and dial design are clearly reminiscent of his later work at Lang & Heyne – an inevitability given the authorship – the style has been modernised. The dial especially is cleaner and more modern, avoid the weight, pocket-watch aesthetic that was a defining trait of Lang & Heyne design, but also a shortcoming, depending on your taste.

Beyond the updated styling and impressive new calibre, the Zweigesicht-1 is equipped with removable lugs that allow it to be worn on either side. Removing and reattaching the lugs is a straightforward affair, but nonetheless requires a deft hand due to the size of the captive screws that release the lugs. While the concept is a good idea in theory – and something a a skilled watchmaker like Mr Lang can do with his eyes closed – buyers of the watch might find it fiddly.

Marco Lang

Teutonic looks

The Zweigesicht-1 has a simple dial on the front that’s made up of three parts, with a recessed centre finished with clous de Paris, or hobnail, guilloche.

Both the Marco Lang logo and five-minute markers are applied, while the hands are either solid rose gold or blued steel, depending on the case metal. Though simple in shape – they are essentially batons with gently pointed tips – the hands are solidly constructed but delicately finished – subtly facetted lengthwise and polished by hand.

The dial on the reverse is far more intricate. All of the movement is reveal, with the bridges arranged vertically and symmetrically and the time on a sub-dial at six o’clock. Made of silver and filled with translucent blue grand feu enamel, the chapter ring for the time is matched with blued-steel cathedral style hands.

Movement features

The distinctive look of the movement is a result of its architecture that logically flows upwards. Both the barrels sit under the time display, anchored by a large bridge. The bridge that spans the centre of the movement holds the wheels of the gear train, with the crown wheel for winding the barrels – and a delicately-shaped click spring – positioned just beside the crown.

And at 12 o’clock sits the balance bridge, with the four-armed, adjustable mass balance wheel just below, attached to a Breguet overcoil hairspring. And in a nod to traditional watchmaking, the end stone for the balance staff is a diamond, as was often found in top-of-the-line German pocket watches of the 19th century.

The balance bridge with its diamond end stone

The crown wheel (extreme right), with one of the barrels just below

Though traditional in many aspects, the movement does incorporate a new complication: a shock recorder. Located at nine o’clock, the records and indicates the most recent shocks – one in each direction for a total of four – experienced by the movement.

Built with extraordinarily fine steel components, the shock recorder relies on a cylindrical weight that’s displaced when the movement is subject to shock.

The pointers that indicate the impact on each axis and direction

The motion of the weight shifts either one or both of two steel forks, which in turn move the four blued steel hands along the scale, indicating the magnitude of the shock as well as the direction (either positive or negative on the X or Y axes).

The hands move in a unidirectional manner on the scale, and are held in place by fine locking teeth on the scale. A maximum of four impacts can be recorded – one in each direction on each axis. And a recessed pusher on the case band resets the hands to zero simultaneously, allowing for a new measurement.

The cylindrical weight (in red) with the two forks that drive the hands

The calibration of the shock indicator is still a work in progress according to Mr Lang, who is currently wearing the prototype of the Zweigesicht-1 and refining the indicator. He is working to strike a balance between having a sensible threshold for minimum impact such that the indicators can be observed to move, while also not recording the most minimal of forces.

Importantly, the Zweigesicht-1 can be ordered without the shock recorder, which is interesting and surprisingly complicated, but not a must-have. In its place will be a plate with an engraving as well as savings of an appealing €6,000.

Removable lugs

While the movement is the technical and artisanal highlight of the watch, its double-faced nature is novel. According to Mr Lang, perfecting the reversibility of the case was one of the crucial steps in the development of the Zweigesicht-1.

“It was important to me during the construction that you shouldn’t see that the watch can be rotated, so the crown should stay in the same place, and the case should not become more massive or mechanically more vulnerable,” explains Mr Lang, “[At the same time] the wearing comfort remains the same on both sides thanks to the symmetrical construction.”

Both sides of the case middle are identical, meaning that the case back and bezel are mirror images of each other. And the lugs are essentially U-shaped frames that attach to each side of the case middle via fixed posts.

Reversing the watch is a simple affair: each lugs has a captive screw on its underside with a red dot on one half of the screw head. Rotating the head such that the red dot points to the outer side of the lug releases the lugs from the case middle. Both lugs are then reattached in the other direction, and secured by rotating the fixed screw back to its locked position.

The Zweigesicht-1 is delivered with a small screwdriver and loupe for performing the reversing of the lugs.

Key Facts and Price

Marco Lang Zweigesicht-1

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 9.5 mm (without sapphire crystal)
Material: Steel, 18k rose gold, or platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Caliber ml-01
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, shock indicator, and double-faced time indication
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Hand wind
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Alligator with shark lining

Limited edition: 18 watches
Availability: Direct from Marco Lang, with production of only four to five watches a year
Price:
With shock indicator – steel €57,000; rose gold €65,000; and platinum €68,000
Without shock indicator – steel €51,500; rose gold €59,500; and platinum €62,500

Prices exclude taxes

For more, visit Marcolangwatches.com.

In a departure from its usual exuberant, Technicolor style, Franck Müller’s latest creation is slim, pared back, and monochromatic. An exclusive for its stores in France, the Vanguard Line Cut is a thin time-only watch entirely in sandblasted titanium, giving it a sleek, clean look. And priced a little under €10,000, it is also affordable as such things go.

Initial thoughts

While most of the Vanguard models feel derivative, or a bit much, the Line Cut seems just right in size, style, and price. It’s 41 mm wide, smallish by Franck Muller standards, and under 10 mm high, giving it the wide-but-thin proportions of many popular luxury-sports watches.

And the pared-back look also extends to its colours and textures – the liberal use of sandblasted titanium is clean and suits the style, resulting in an aesthetic that’s both cohesive and attractive. But its water resistance is only 30 m, which is a bit less than typical for a sports watch.

Not much was provided on the FM 708 movement inside, although the Franck Muller says it was developed specifically for this watch.

Cintree Curvex

Descended from Franck Muller’s signature Cintree Curvex tonneau-shaped watch, the Vanguard is a sports watch that does bear some resemblance to Richard Mille’s familiar case style. But the slimness of the Line Cut brings to mind instead the earliest watches of Franck Muller, which were mostly smaller and thinner than today’s models.

The titanium case measures 41 mm by 50 mm, with a height of just 9.1 mm. It’s all titanium – albeit with a black rubber insert on the case sides – as is the bracelet, while the dial has been treated with a grey coating that echoes the finish of the titanium case.

Inside is the FM 708, an automatic movement that’s relatively large at 28.9 mm in diameter and 3.84 mm high, which makes it slightly wider and thicker than an ETA 2892-A2.

Key Facts and Price

Franck Muller Vanguard Line Cut
Ref. V 41 S AT REL LINE CUT

Diameter: 41 mm by 50 mm
Height: 9.1 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: FM 708
Features: Hours, and minutes
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Titanium bracelet

Availability: Franck Muller boutiques and retailers in France
Price: €9,800 including VAT of 20%

For more, visit franckmuller.com

Hot on the heels of the RM 72-01 powered by the brand’s first in-house chronograph movement, Richard Mille has just introduced the RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph, continuing its historical focus on ultra high-end chronographs, which began with RM 004 of 2003.

Not only is the RM 65-01 the first self-winding split-seconds chronograph from Richard Mille, it’ll also be the brand’s first serially produced watch with the complication, joining watches like the RM 11 as a mainstay of the line up.

Initial thoughts

Highly-complex chronographs are embedded in Richard Mille’s DNA – the company’s first chronograph was RM 004, which was a hand-wind, split-seconds powered by a Renaud & Papi movement. And in the space of a year, Richard Mille has unveiled two all-new chronographs, starting with the RM 72-01, and now the RM 65-01.

RM 65-01 in Carbon NTPT

The RM 65-01 is typically Richard Mille in style and materials, exuding sportiness with its techno-industrial movement finish, skeletonised dial, and multicoloured indicators. On any other watch, the colours would look like the designers are trying too hard, but in the RM 65-01, they just work.

The movement, however, is notable for being a technically accomplished calibre produced by Vaucher, the respect movement specialist that’s a sister company of Parmigiani. Historically Vaucher has only supplied movements for the brand’s entry-level timepieces, while the more complicated calibres were made by Renaud & Papi or done in house.

Based on the Vaucher VMF 6710, the RMAC4 inside the RM 65-01 is a high-frequency movement running at 36,000 beats per hour that has an integrated split-seconds chronograph, making it one of the most sophisticated movements in Richard Mille’s collection, and certainly the most impressive calibre that isn’t a tourbillon or grande complication.

The RMAC4 visible through the display back

And it also has a novel, a slightly gimmicky feature: a button on the case flank that can be used to wind the watch, much like the Roman Gauthier Logical One. Unlike the Logical One, however, the RM 65-01 can also be wound with the crown, making the addition of the “rapid-winding” pusher seem like a bit of an affectation. And requiring 125 presses to fully wind the mainspring, the rapid-winding mechanism isn’t so rapid after all.

The RM 65-01 is not limited in production, but will no less be produced in very small numbers. It combines exotic materials and a high-end chronograph, and the price, though astronomical, is par for the course for Richard Mille.

The mainspring will be fully wound after 125 presses

RM style

Like previous Richard Mille chronographs, the RM 65-01 doesn’t feature a dial as much as it does a skeletonised frame that is set over the movement – there is no traditional dial to speak of. Though there is a dizzying array of information on display, the indications have been cleverly colour-coded: the time indication is highlighted in yellow; the chronograph minute and hour totalisers, at three and nine o’clock respectively, are highlighted in orange; while the date is in green.

The complications on the dial are color-coded to improve legibility

The rubberised outer face of the crown is a function selector working in tandem with the indicator at five o’clock that’s colour-coded according to the function: “W” for winding,  “D” for setting the date, or “H” for time setting.

And the tachymeter scale has been printed on the steeply-sloping flange, which adds a measure of depth to the dial and serves as an anchor point for the triangular hour indices.

The dial consists of a skeletonised frame with the chronograph counters and running seconds registers that is laid on top of the movement

Like all contemporary Richard Mille watches, the RM 65-01 is big – 44.5 mm wide, 50 mm long, and just over 16 mm high – but its ergonomics are good. Thanks to the tonneau-shaped case with a curved case back, as well as the lightweight carbon composite case, the watch will wear far more comfortably than its dimensions suggest.

The rubber-clad crown has a co-axial function selector

The RM 65-01 is available in two case materials – carbon TPT, or a combination of red gold and carbon TPT. The carbon composite case components are made by Swiss composite specialist North Thin Ply Technology (NTPT), which has supplying thin-ply carbon composites exclusively to Richard Mille since 2018.

Made up of layers of carbon fibre within a polymer, the composite has distinctive, striped appearance that is a defining feature of most current Richard Mille watches. Another composite used in the RM 65-01 is red quartz TPT, which forms the rapid-winding pusher.

Not just a pretty face

The RMAC4 within is derived from the Vaucher VMF 6710 that made its debut as the PF361 in the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Chronor Anniversaire. While both the Richard Mille and Parmigiani versions of the movements are the same underpinnings, they are executed in drastically different ways. Whereas the Parmigiani movement had its bridges and base plate crafted out of solid 18k red gold, the RMAC4 favours titanium and a techno-industrial aesthetic.

Though the look is modern, the RMAC4 is fairly traditional in construction, unlike the CRMC1 movement in the recent RM 72-01, which has pair of unconventional oscillating pinions connecting the chronograph to the gear train. The RMAC4, on the other hand, relies on the traditional vertical clutch and dual column wheels for the split-seconds.

The RMAC4 is also equipped with a variable-geometry winding rotor that allows its winding rate to be adjusted according to the wearer’s activity

But the high-frequency balance of the RMAC4 is unusual. Historically, such movements had been eschewed in favour of those running at a conventional 28,800 beats per hour, or 4 Hz, since a lower beat rate implies less wear and tear. Rolex famously lowered the beat rate of the Zenith El Primero used in the Cosmograph Daytona, and high-beat chronographs remain rare even today.

A higher beat rate offers increased functionality, particularly in chronographs, since it allows for recording elapsed time in greater resolution. While a 4 Hz chronograph can only time events with a precision of up to 1/8th of a second, a 5 Hz movement offers precision of 1/10th a second. This is all academic of course – there are far more accurate electronic instruments available today – but true to its nature as a purpose-built chronograph, the RMAC4 has a 5 Hz beat rate.

Dual column wheels and central heart cam for the split-seconds chronograph function

Richard Mille’s signature spline screws in titanium

Like most Richard Mille movements, the RM 65-01 was conceived to be highly shock resistant, and ideal for a watch meant to be worn hard. The balance wheel is anchored by a full bridge for more stability, and the entire movement is mounted on rubber spacers instead of a conventional metal movement ring.

The movement is finished in great detail, albeit in the style characteristic of Richard Mille. The titanium bridges and plates are skeletonised, black coated, and feature recessed centres with a frosted surface that are surrounded by raised borders finished with a neat linear brushing.

A balance bridge and screw-fixed rubber spacers contribute to shock resistance

Key Facts and Price

Richard Mille RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph

Diameter: 44.5 mm by 50 mm
Thickness: 16.10 mm
Material: Carbon composite, or carbon composite and red gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance:  50 m

Movement: RMAC4
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds; semi-instantaneous date; split-seconds chronograph; push-button for rapid winding; function selector crown
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Rubber with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: Only at Richard Mille boutiques
Price: Carbon TPT – US$310,000 or 270,000 Swiss francs

For more, visit Richardmille.com.

Correction December 20, 2020: A 5 Hz movement can theoretically measure 1/10th of a second, instead of a 10 Hz movement as stated in an earlier version of the article.

Perhaps the leading maker of avant-garde and exotic tourbillon wristwatches, Greubel Forsey has just appointed Antonio Calce as chief executive officer.

Having spent the early years of his career at Panerai in product development and then overseeing its manufacture, Mr Calce then became chief executive of Corum, and subsequently Eterna as well. Next came the top job at Girard-Perregaux, where he had a mandate to turn it around but departed before his plans gained traction.

At Greubel Forsey, Mr Calce succeeds Fabrice Deschanel, who became chief executive officer of Greubel Forsey in 2017 after several years as head of Audemars Piguet’s complications subsidiary Renaud & Papi.

The recently-launched Greubel Forsey GMT Sport

Commenting in the announcement, Robert Greubel stated, “I am convinced Antonio will carry the Greubel Forsey signature a long way, all the while respecting our values and our DNA.” Mr Greubel remains chairman of the board, while fellow cofounder Stephen Forsey continues in his role helming product and movement development.

While the role of Greubel Forsey chief executive was historically one and the same with the top job at Complitime, Greubel Forsey’s sister company that builds complications for other brands, Mr Calce’s new role is only overseeing Greubel Forsey.