One of Franck Muller’s bestselling models, the Vanguard is a modern take on the brand’s signature Cintree Curvex case. Already available in a bewildering variety of sizes, complications, and materials, the line now gets one of its most interesting iterations yet – the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire.

Featuring a clear sapphire crystal case, the new Vanguard is interesting beyond its colours and shape. Inside is a hand-wind, in-house movement with a seven-day power reserve. And in the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire Color Dreams, the movement bridges are anodised in a multitude of colours.

The Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire Color Dreams

Initial thoughts

The Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire is typical of modern-day Franck Muller watches – large and flamboyant, especially in the Color Dreams livery.

But it also reflects Franck Muller being a vertically-integrated brand – an accomplishment not widely recognised by aficionados – with the in-house form movement that has a weeklong power reserve.

With black-coated bridges

While the shape of the case is reminiscent of Richard Mille, Franck Muller is the brand responsible for making the tonneau case popular in contemporary watchmaking. The Cintree Curvex was inspired by tonneau-shaped Cartier and Patek Philippe watches of the early 20th century, and became one of the “it” watches of the 1990s.

But the new Vanguard’s retail price of about US$150,000 is too much – by a large margin.

Skeleton sapphire

The Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire is a large 44 mm by 53.7 mm, while standing 12.7 mm high. But its size is justified by the cal. FM 1740-VS within.

It’s a large, manual-wind movement with twin, stacked barrels that provide seven days of running time, or a power reserve of over 160 hours.

The Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire (left) and ladies’ Vanguard

Made of lightweight aluminium, the bridges have been opened worked in a linear style, giving the calibre a clean, modern appearance.

A variety of models are available, but the Color Dreams version is quintessential Franck Muller in its colours.

Key Facts and Price

Franck Muller Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire
Ref. V 45 S6 SQT COL DRM SAPPHIRE (Color Dreams)

Diameter: 44 mm by 53.7 mm
Height: 12.7 mm
Material: Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: FM 1740-VS
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Winding: Hand wind
Power reserve: Seven days

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Availability: Franck Muller boutiques and retailers
Price: CHF138,000, or about US$150,000

For more, visit franckmuller.com