After voyages through the cultures of Europe, China, and Japan, Louis Vuitton sets course beyond the terrestrial realm. The Tambour Taiko Galactique is a minute repeater with automata depicting an astronaut on the Moon. With its newest creation, Louis Vuitton once again marries artisanal decoration with high-end mechanics – all accomplished in-house at its manufacture in Geneva, La Fabrique du Temps (LFT).

Initial thoughts

For several years now, Louis Vuitton has endeavoured to preserve and perpetuate traditional watchmaking and related crafts. From the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives to its collaborations with independent watchmakers, and the massive, nine-figure investment in its Geneva manufactures and the vertical integration of metiers d’art, Louis Vuitton is a large luxury brand, the world’s biggest in fact, but still remains in touch with artisanal horology. 

The latest launch from the French marque is a minute repeater that defies traditional dogma. With the Galactique, Louis Vuitton pays tribute to both the space age and classic watchmaking by dressing an otherwise traditional complication in a space-themed attire. It is literally a “Moonwatch”, but of another type. 

The lunar-centric watch is appealing, a little whimsical, and well-executed, with consistent design choices unifying the case and dial. The only decidedly classic element is the movement that is visible through the case back. 

An artful dial

The centrepiece of the Galactique — and perhaps its best trait — is the engraved and enamelled dial. A miniature painting of the Earth as seen from the Moon’s surface by a LV-themed astronaut, the lively dial is both artful and fun in its details. Thematically, this is a sequel to last year’s Tambour Jacquemart Minute Repeater “200 Years”.

Crafting the cosmic panorama takes over 300 hours, with four distinct enamelling techniques being implemented. The dial base carries the painting of the lunar surface and its perspective of Earth, while elements like the Sun, the astronaut and the satellite are mounted in dedicated fixtures. 

The miniature Sun is crafted by altering slim layers of gold with translucent enamel (a technique known as paillonné enamel) which gives the star’s shining appearance. Gold is systematically used on the dial base as well, serving as the backdrop for the diamond-shaped stars.

The astronaut was sculpted by Louis Vuitton’s resident Master Engraver. The small figure holds a yellow flag and is thoroughly LV-themed. The classic Louis Vuitton symbols appear all over the dial, making for fun and recognisable details.

The figures are part of the automata of the Galactique and spring to life when the repeater function is actuated. Traditional automata timepieces paired mechanics with artisanal elements, something which the Galactique does very well.

An adapted case

Framing the dial is the recently redesigned Tambour case which, although slightly thick at 14.6 mm, fits the watch and overall theme very well. Manufactured by the brand’s own La Fabrique des Boîtiers, a five-minute’s drive from LFT, the 46.7 mm case is tastefully modern. 

The sloping bezel bears the brand name in relief, with raised letters on a frosted channel. As separate pieces, each finished by hand, the lugs curve off the case and are hollowed out, with frosting applied on the inner concave surfaces.

Being a minute repeater, the case also features an actuating slide. The slide is set with six baguette-cut sapphires and a pair of baguette-cut topaz. The crown positioned at 12 o’clock is reminiscent of pocket watches that were adapted for the wrist.

A remarkable movement

Powering the space-themed automata is the hand-wound LFT AU14.02 calibre. Developed by LFT, the movement marries traditional finishing with an interesting architecture. LFT has managed to create its own design signature when it comes to movements. Large jewels, broad Geneva stripes and arched intertwined bridges are some of the elements which appear often in the movement maker’s creations. 

The LFT AU14.02 looks like a fairly classic repeater movement, with cathedral gongs, hammers and a governor that sets the pace of the strikework. The timekeeping portion of the movement is pleasantly open-worked, revealing most of the going train to the onlooker.

LFT AU14.02 runs at 3 Hz for about 100 hours and comes with the familiar LFT regulator, namely a free-spring balance and a slim, skeletonised escape wheel. While the finishing is applied by machine and then finished off by hand, the result is a tidy and finely decorated movement.

The movement sounds the hours, quarters and minutes on demand, with the striking process also bringing the dial to life.

The astronaut waves its flag, the Sun rotates and the satellite’s components adjust as the strike works chime the time. Each element moves at its own pace, creating the illusion that the animations are independent.

With the multiple moving parts on the dial, integrating the moving figures with the dial-side strikework was surely a difficult task for the watchmakers.

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Key facts and price

Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Galactique
Ref. W9TI12

Diameter: 46.7 mm
Height: 14.6 mm
Material: Brown, lugs and slide-piece in 18K white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: LFT AU14.02
Features: Hours, minutes, automata function and minute repeater
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual
Power reserve: 100 hours

Strap: Blue rubber strap with 18K white gold double buckle

Limited edition: Unique piece
Availability: At Louis Vuitton boutiques
Price: €1 million before taxes

For more, visit Louisvuitton.com.

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Patek Philippe’s Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27000M-001 is the biggest release of Watches & Wonders 2025, with a footprint of 164.6 by 125 mm, and rising to 76.73 mm at its apex. Priced at an even CHF1 million before taxes, the clock is powered by a key-wound, 31-day movement – incorporating a one-second remontoir d’egalite – housed in a wedge-shaped sterling silver cabinet, decorated with green flinqué enamel.

Initial thoughts

While we’ve seen desk and table clocks from others in the space, none have been as incredibly high-effort as this. Patek Philippe claims the 912-part shaped caliber took seven years of development, including nine patent applications. That’s quite the investment in a product with limited mainstream appeal, and I find it reassuring that Patek Philippe is still willing to make those investments.

The enamel work is enchanting and has precedent in early 20th-century silver travel clocks retailed by Cartier, among others. I could take or leave the baroque styling, but the dial and hidden “dashboard” look fantastic. I hope Patek Philippe will offer this movement in other styles down the road.

If you’ve never experienced a key-winding watch or clock, it’s quite satisfying; I wouldn’t call it fun, but it’s not something you’re likely to get sick of. It’s an experience you can’t get with Patek Philippe’s other current production clocks, which use an electric motor to wind the movement without need of human intervention.

Patek Philippe emphasises how easy the tool-less calendar adjustment system is to use. Hopefully, this telegraphs the brand’s plans for future wrist-borne perpetual calendars. It’s also Patek Philippe’s first foray into constant force devices, which have been popular with independents for a while.

Additionally, the clock’s wedge-like profile means the dial will be roughly perpendicular to your line of sight when seated at your desk. It’s a small detail, but not all desk clocks get it right.

The one-million franc price tag makes some sense when you consider the movement’s development cost, low volume, and opportunity cost of not making more commercially appealing models. While it is far from a good deal, you can easily spend more for less.

A storied lineage

James Ward Packard and Henry Graves Jr., perhaps the most famous Patek Philippe collectors of the 20th century, commissioned desk clocks in this form factor from Patek Philippe.

With its subsidiary hours and minutes display, the ref. 27000M takes most of its inspiration from Packard’s clock, but is substantially larger and boasts notable upgrades. While both of the historical timepieces ran for eight days, the ref. 27000M runs for at least 31.

We saw a unique version of the desk clock back in 2021, the ref. 27001M-001 with a “salmon” dial and an American walnut-clad cabinet. That was made for that year’s Only Watch charity auction, and entirely unique until now.

Besides being very large, today’s serially-produced ref. 27000M also very green. While the unique example made for Only Watch might blend in on a hardwood desk, this certainly won’t.

The walnut panelling has been replaced with green flinqué enamel, while the dial is a more classic opaline silver.

Some of the walnut veneer has escaped the viridescent treatment; this can be seen under the hinged cover, popped open using a button on the right, and held upright when open by a stay on the left. The inside of the cover is sueded and carries a silver plaque for engraving.

The perpetual calendar with apertures for day and month from Packard’s clock returns in the ref. 27000M, though with the addition of leap year and day/night indications in apertures, and a weekly calendar by way of a red frame circling the dial’s periphery.

All calendar functions are controlled by an engine-turned “dashboard” hidden under the front lid, which has a familiar watchmaking decoration but is more evocative of vintage car instrument panels. This is the first we’ve seen any sort of toolless adjustment on a Patek perpetual since the Star Caliber 2000’s rapid correction system.

The clock is wound and set using a folding key, with squares for both functions in sockets at the top right corner. Ironic, as Patek Philippe was an early pioneer of keyless watches. Another square just below six o’clock starts and stops the movement, allowing the time to be set to the second.

You won’t have to worry about losing the key, since it tucks away neatly into its alcove at 10:30, and can be popped out when needed.

Inside the clock is the enormous cal. 86-135 PEND S IRM Q SE, which Patek Philippe rates to +/- 1 second per day – excellent for a watch, though not remarkable for a stationary timekeeper. Naturally, it is only adjusted to one position.

The movement is more watch-like than clock-like; it doesn’t chime, uses a small Gyromax balance beating at a spritely 4 Hz, and has shock-protection for the balance. It could even be described as a pocket watch movement powered by a clock-sized complications module.

The movement is also decorated to a higher standard than is typical for clocks, done with ample machine assistance, I’m sure, but Patek Philippe still went the extra mile, especially on the under-dial components.

The sweep-seconds hand is naturally jumping as this movement uses a one-second constant force device to meter out the power from three enormous barrels, with 1.7-meter-long mainsprings each. This gives a more relaxed feel, like the ticking of a pendulum clock, and is reminiscent of the Naviquartz, a line of quartz chronometer desk clocks made by Patek Philippe in the 1970s.

The remontoir d’egalite also means the balance amplitude remains stable for all 31 days of the power reserve. Recently, we’ve seen jumping seconds on the wristwatch refs. 5275 and 6301, however, those were not coupled with a constant force device.

While the desk clock isn’t water resistant like the Naviquartz (so keep your coffee on the other side of the desk), foam gaskets around the dashboard and base should keep dust and humidity at bay.

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Key facts and price

Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock
Ref. 27000M-001

Diameter: 16.46 cm by 12.5 cm
Height: 7.63 cm
Material: Sterling silver, flinqué enamel, and American walnut

Movement: Cal. 86-135 PEND IRM Q SE
Functions: Time, perpetual calendar, moon phases, week-number display and power-reserve display
Winding: Key-wound
Power reserve: 31 days

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at boutiques and authorised retailers
Price: CHF1 million before taxes

For more information, visit Patek.com.

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Hermès recently revisited a whimsical complication first introduced some 14 years ago, the Arceau Le Temps Suspendu. Still retaining the quirky “suspended time” complication, the new Arceau Le Temps Suspendu gains a multi-layer, open-worked dial that reveals the interesting mechanics behind the mechanism. And it’s been scaled down slightly to 42 mm thanks to a movement upgrade.

Initial thoughts

I liked the original Le Temps Suspendu, both in terms of form and function. The complication isn’t practical, but it is unique and appropriate for the elegant, whimsical house style of Hermès.

The original was a large watch, and the modestly downsized new version is an improvement. The thinner case is possible thanks to a Vaucher base movement, which is a step up over the ETA 2892 in the original.

More notably, the open-worked dial adds substantially to the visual appeal. Besides giving the dial more depth, it reveals the surprisingly complex mechanism devised by Agenhor for Hermès. Though the complication is simple on its face, the mechanics required to pull it off are significant, and now they are on show.

And most surprising of all, the new Arceau Le Temps Suspendu costs less than the original from 2011, with the rose gold variants priced a little under US$40,000. This is despite the upgraded base movement and more elaborate dial. It runs counter to prevailing practice in high-end watchmaking, and reflects the generally reasonably pricing of Hermès watches.

Suspending time

The Arceau Le Temps Suspendu gets its name from the fact that it can “suspend time”. In essence, Le Temps Suspendu is a triple retrograde that records elapsed time and date.

When “suspended”, the hour, minute, and date hands remain stationary at their respective neutral positions, the hour and minute hands resting at either side of 12 o’clock while the date hand is concealed under the edge of the dial.

Pressing the button at nine o’clock wakes up the display and all the hands jump to their correct positions showing the current time and date – regardless of how much time has passed. In other words, the movement “remembers” the time as it passes, even when the hands are frozen.

The facelifted Arceau Le Temps Suspendu debuts in three variants, all sharing the same specs but differing in case metal and dial finish. Cased in white gold are brun désert (“desert brown”) and rouge sellier (“saddler red”), while sunburst blue is in rose gold.

Both white gold models are unusual and striking and my favourites; the combination of blue and rose gold is more conventional.

The new model similar retains the asymmetrical Arceau case that has loop-like upper lugs and stubby lower lugs, a form inspired by the stirrup. But though the complication remains the same, the case has been slimmed down slightly to 42 mm while being a little thinner, compared to 43 mm before. This is thanks to the smaller Vaucher calibre inside.

Though slight, the reduction in case dimensions is apparent and the new model feels more compact and a little more elegant.

The most obvious update to the model is, however, the dial. This transforms the look of the watch, giving it a more modern appearance that’s simultaneously more mechanical.

The dial is stepped in several places, with the minute scale being raised, while the date scale and “12” are recessed. The various elements of the dial are also finished differently, ranging from radial brushing to frosting, which adds to the layered appearance.

The central portion of the dial is a window of sapphire that’s tinted to match the dial colour. It’s still clear enough to show off the mechanics of the “suspended time” complication that in principle is similar to a chronograph. As a result, the mechanism resembles some aspect of a traditional chronograph construction, explaining why it is actually more complicated than it seems.

The module is essentially unchanged from the original, which was developed by Geneva complications specialist Agenhor, best known for its retrograde and jumping mechanism. Agenhor’s complications are often unusual and also poetic, both in function and execution.

The tinted sapphire window is not wide enough to reveal the equestrian elements that were cleverly incorporated into the calibre by Agenhor – several of the levers take the form of a horse’s head in reference to the signature Hermès motif.

Though the Agenhor module remains, it is now mounted on the H1837, a double-barrel automatic movement produced by Vaucher, the movement maker of which Hermès owns a third. This contrasts with the base movement of the original, which was the reliable but inexpensive ETA 2892.

The H1837 is widely used across Hermès’ line-up. It’s a refined calibre with slimness and a free-sprung balance but several years old, so the power reserve is a short 45 hours. Like majority of the movements Vaucher produces for Hermès, the H1837 is decorated with a stamped repeating “H” motif.

Despite being unconventional and stamped, the “H” patterning is appealing. Personally I like it better than Cotes de Geneve, which would be equally industrially applied in a movement like this.

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Key facts and price

Hermès Arceau Le Temps Suspendu

Case diameter: 42 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: 18k white or rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: H1837 with Agenhor module
Functions: Hours, minutes, and date with “time suspended” function
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Alligator with folding buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Hermes boutiques and retailers
Price: US$39,800 in rose gold; US$45,825 in white gold

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In the run up to Watches & Wonders 2025, many commentators expected a breakout year for the GMT-Master II, since it’s the 80th year of the collection. But Rolex took things in a different direction and dominated headlines by launching the Land-Dweller instead. But Rolex didn’t forget about its signature travel watch, and debuted two new precious metal models.

The first is the GMT-Master II ref. 126729VTNR, which is in 18k white gold with a left-handed crown and a green ceramic dial; a first for Rolex. The second is the GMT-Master II ref. 126715CHNR in Everose that brings a new dial material to Rolex, tiger iron, one of the oldest minerals on Earth. Both models are available exclusively with an Oyster bracelet in matching 18k gold.

Initial thoughts

I admit to being laser-focused on the Land-Dweller during Watches & Wonders; the new movement technology captured (and held) my attention throughout the event. But I still made time to check out the GMT-Master II collection, which was one of my favourite Rolex collections at one point in time.

Naturally, both of these new references exude quality, which can be experienced directly in the smooth operation of the bezel and the decisive action of the clasp. The watches are decadent, heavy, and show that Rolex has not run out of ideas for interesting dials. In the case of the green ceramic dial in the “destro” variant, I think we can expect to see this material used more widely in the future.

But these watches are variants of existing models, so the attention is on what makes them different: their dials. The new green ceramic dial looks better up close than in images, and is probably a sign of things to come at Rolex.

The Everose model’s tiger iron dial, in contrast, is all about the past, being billions of years old. This naturally occurring polychromatic stone makes for an interesting dial that is very dynamic in different lighting and is a reasonably priced upgrade from the standard model.

Both new references use the existing GMT-Master II case and Oyster bracelet, making them 40 mm and 11.9 mm thick. In full 18k gold, the watches are heavy but manageable.

Unfortunately, they lack the brand’s adjustable Glidelock clasp, and instead come with the simpler Easylink clasp which is adjustable in just one 5 mm increment. A small quibble, but as the weight of a watch increases, so too does the importance of a good fit.

Inside, both watches are powered by the existing cal. 3285 ‘flyer’ GMT movement. While the cal. 32xx series movements had some early teething issues, Rolex’s commitment to the platform mean they’ve been resolved. Despite not being Rolex’s most advanced movement anymore, the GMT-Master II calibre remains best-in-class among movements with a GMT complication.

In 18k white gold, the green ceramic model costs US$46,750, while the Everose model with its tiger iron dial is US$49,400. These are reasonable increases, up just US$1,550 and US$4,200 respectively, compared to the equivalent existing GMT-Master II models with ordinary, brass dials.

Old brand, new tricks

Most Rolex dials are made of electroplated brass, which are then lacquered and finished off with a layer of clear varnish. This is what gives them their deep, glossy finish. The brand has mastered numerous other dial-making techniques as well, and produces its own dials in the Chêne-Bourg district of suburban Geneva.

Despite its mastery of traditional techniques, the ref. 126729 VTNR’s ceramic dial is a first for Rolex. This is actually a bit surprising given their relentless focus on long-life materials and 15+ years’ experience working with ceramic.

Omega has been using ceramic dials to good effect for more than a decade, albeit mainly in dark colours, since the material is almost impossible to scratch and provides an eerily perfect glossy surface.

With benefits like these, it makes sense for Rolex to follow this path, and it seems inevitable that we will see this material diffuse throughout the the Rolex line-up once the brand is ready to scale production beyond this specific reference.

In the case of the ref. 126729 VTNR, the green tone of the dial is the same colour and texture as the green portion of the ceramic bezel insert.

While I still find the left-handed case a bit weird, the green tone is darker and less garish than the early renderings made it appear. The shade is pleasing and reminds me of the famous green jacket awarded to winners of The Masters golf tournament. As is often the case with ceramic, achieving a bright colour, rather than a dark and dull one, was one of the key challenges in fabricating the dial material.

Multi mineral

The new Everose GMT offers a more conventional setup with its crown at three o’clock, and is functionally identical to the existing GMT-Master II ref. 26715CHNR “Root Beer” . The only difference is the tiger iron dial, but what a difference it makes.

Tiger iron is a natural stone comprised of three separate minerals: tiger’s eye, red jasper, and hematite. The stone is mined in western Australia, from one of the oldest rock formations on Earth, which dates back about three billion years. This unique origin gives it a more interesting backstory than a typical stamped-and-lacquered brass dial.

Up close, the dial is rich in texture. It’s a bit overwhelming at first, but it’s grown on me. To my eye, the blend of minerals, which were compressed together into tight bands millennia ago, resembles petrified wood, and offers the depth and grain of a natural material. While stone dials are increasingly common, Rolex has found a way to keep things interesting.

Behind their solid case backs, both watches are powered by the brand’s latest GMT movement, the cal. 3285. This is a 4 Hz ‘flyer’ GMT movement, meaning the user can advance the local time in one-hour increments while the 24-hour GMT hand stays fixed on home time.

While certainly one of the most advanced movements in the industry, with the brand’s proprietary Chronergy lever escapement and Parachrom overcoil hairspring, I can’t shake the feeling that the movement now feels a bit dated next to the latest generation Rolex calibers with silicon hairsprings and the new Dynapulse escapement.

Closing thoughts

For 80 years, Rolex has offered the best simple GMT complication on the market. This leading position has been maintained thanks to the brand’s methodical, iterative approach to product design, and by staying focused on fundamental quality from the base plate on up.

These new references are not revolutionary and will likely not be any collector’s first foray into Rolex, but they are nonetheless distinctive additions to the collection. And as is typical for Rolex, they are priced a little more than their predecessors, but not too much, making the price arguably just right.

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Key facts and price

Rolex GMT-Master II
Ref. 126729VTNR (white gold, green ceramic)
Ref. 126715CHNR (Everose gold, tiger iron)

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.9 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 3285
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and GMT
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Oyster bracelet in 18k white or Everose gold

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Rolex boutiques and retailers starting April 2025
Price: US$46,750 for ref. 126729VTNR; and US$49,400 for ref. 126715CHNR (prices before taxes)

For more, visit Rolex.com.

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Rare Watches in Geneva kicks off the spring auction season for Christie’s. Some of the highlights amongst the sale’s 183 lots illustrates the history and evolution of horology, most notably with timepieces by Abraham-Louis Breguet and Francois-Paul Journe.

The notable F.P. Journe offerings include a Resonance pre-souscription and a Ruthenium full house, complete with numbered box. The standouts from Breguet include a pocket watch first owned by Pauline Bonaparte, Napoleon’s younger sister, an early striking carriage clock, and an intriguing Type XX precursor literally gone askew.

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F.P Journe

Principally inspired by the work of A.-L. Breguet and Antide Janvier, Francois-Paul Journe’s landmark Chronomètre à Résonance was the first attempt at synchronised, coupled oscillators in a wristwatch. The first numbered 20 examples were reserved for a Breguet-style souscription series – paid in advance by the client – but were not the first made.

A handful of pre-production watches were made for Basel 1999, followed by the pre-souscription series to which this watch belongs. About 20 watches starting from “21” onwards are pre-souscription, and this is “041/00R”. Notably, one example prior, “040/00R”, sold for a little under CHF1.4 million including fees at Christie’s in 2023, setting a record.

The Ruthenium collection, built in 99 examples each across five models from 2001 to 2005, includes the Octa Calendrier, Octa Chronographe, Chronomètre à Résonance, Tourbillon Souverain, and Octa Réserve de Marche Jour et Nuit. All were housed in 40 mm platinum cases, with ruthenium dials and brass movements. Brass, of course, is more precious than gold to collectors.

The Octa Réserve de Marche Jour et Nuit is special because it can only be found in the Ruthenium Collection. The Ruthenium Series also contains an interesting first-generation Tourbillon Souverain. It has the small screws of the fourth series, but uniquely has an up-sized 40 mm case, unlike the 38 mm cases normally found on the first generation.

This set is being sold separately, with the watches and matching box each making up one lot in the sale. Keen-eyed collectors will see that this is the same set of watches that was part of the OAK Collection.

A.-L. Breguet

Though relatively simple on its face, Breguet no. 2539 has historical significance. It was sold to Napoleon Bonaparte’s sister, Pauline, in 1813, for 2,400 francs.

The watch has the refinements expected of Breguet’s work: para-chute shock protection and a ruby cylinder. Pauline’s watch is also a half-quarter repeater, which offers increased resolution over a quarter repeater but without the added complexity of a minute repeater.

Also early and important is an early Empire-style carriage clock, number 2458, which was sold in 1809. Breguet is usually credited with inventing the carriage clock, and this one is even more important as it is one of the earliest that has come to market.

It has a quarter repeater and alarm (more accurately, a count-down timer). Below the dial is an in-line digital full calendar. And on top is a curved handle for ease of use when travelling; this was essentially the forerunner of the modern-day travel wristwatch.

Lastly is a more recent, 20th century Breguet: an eccentric one-button chronograph retailed by Parisian jeweller Maison Burma in 1952. The movement has been rotated 45 degrees anti-clockwise, giving the watch an asymmetrical dial with the mono-pusher crown at two o’clock.

Like the later Type XX issued to the French military, the “Burma” is housed in a large-for-the-time 38 mm steel case with a rotating bezel. Unlike the Type XX, it’s only a one-button chronograph, and the unmarked bezel doesn’t appear to have any useful purpose.

Like the Ruthenium set above, the “Burma” was part of the OAK Collection.

The full catalogue is available on Christies.com.

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The opening salvo in Breguet’s 250th anniversary has just been revealed: the Classique Souscription 2025BH. Although typically Breguet in style, the watch is a novel combination of elements, at least by the conventions of Breguet, a traditionally staid brand.

Presented in a case of the new design made of a gold alloy of a new formula, it’s a wristwatch inspired by the one-handed souscription pocket watches of the 18th and 19th centuries. The fired enamel dial replicates that of the pocket watch, while inside is the VS00, a calibre that is descended from the movement of the La Tradition.

Initial thoughts

As storied a brand as it is, Breguet certainly has a lot to live up to for its 250th anniversary. I expect more to come from Breguet in the coming months, but the Classique Souscription is a strong start, though a little pricey.

It’s essentially an elaborately executed time-only watch, precisely the sort of watch that is popular now when made by independent watchmakers, but big brands face more scepticism with such timepieces.

Though it might seem typical Breguet on its face, the Classique Souscription is an unusual proposition; it’s inspired by various elements from across Breguet’s history, some several centuries apart. The dial and movement are inspired by a 19th century pocket watch, while the case comes much later. But everything works well and the whole manages to look like a Breguet.

Traditionalists might mourn the departure from familiar elements like the fluted case band, but the new (old) look is refreshing. Granted, the new case is simpler to produce than the classic version with soldered lugs, but I think the new look is a good thing, especially since it’s both appealing and rooted in history.

The watch is rooted in history is more than just aesthetics – appropriately so. The metal alloy hairspring, for example, is a surprise given Breguet’s widespread use of silicon hairsprings. Also notable are the artisanal touches, especially since Breguet is a large brand producing watches on an industrial scale. These include the hand guilloche on the case back and pantograph-engraved “secret” signature on the dial.

At a little under US$49,000, the Classique Souscription seems a little pricey on its face, but then again the price index for the luxury watch industry is at an all time high. It costs about the same as the recent Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 6196P, and about half as much as time-only watches by artisanal and “artisanal” independent watchmakers. In that context, the Classique Souscription isn’t all that bad in terms of value, though it could be better.

Pocket watch inspired but not quite

The Classique Souscription takes after the souscription pocket watch that Abraham-Louis Breguet devised around 1796. Equipped with a single hand, these entry-level watches were sold on a “subscription” basis – clients a quarter of the total price in advance, giving Breguet the capital necessary to produce the watches. The watches were bestsellers; according to Breguet, some 700 were produced over three decades.

The modern-day Souscription is decidedly less entry level. The front is almost a remake of the original pocket watch. The dial is domed and grand feu enamel dial, while the single hand is heat-blued steel and curved by hand to match the surface of the dial.

More unusual is the case that is in “Breguet” gold. It’s a new, proprietary alloy according to Breguet, one that’s composed of gold, silver, copper, and palladium, a formula that implies it’s basically a type of rose gold. Even more unusual than the alloy is the case design, which is a one-piece, stamped affair that looks mid-20th century. It’s simpler in construction than Breguet’s signature case with a fluted band and welded lugs, but complements the overall look well.

Measuring 40 mm by 10.8 mm, the case is moderate in size by modern standards, though perhaps larger than the design would imply. That said, the movement is a good fit for the case, indicating the case diameter is more or less correct.

The VS00 calibre inside is clearly evolved from the cal. 505/507 of the La Tradition, retaining the layout that is in turn based on the souscription pocket watch with the characteristic central barrel and stepped gears of the going train.

Manually wound with a 96-hour power reserve, the VS00 has gilt bridges plated in Breguet gold and sandblasted for a frosted finish. Unlike Tradition models that are equipped with silicon hairsprings, the VS00 takes a more traditional approach with a hairspring of Nivachron, an alloy that is less susceptible to magnetism.

Though clearly a high-quality, artisanal-industrial movement like Breguet’s other calibres, the VV00 has an artisanal element, namely the hand-engraving on the base plate.

This is echoed by the rim of the case back that’s decorated with a wavy guilloche christened Quai de l’Horloge, after the street where A.-L. Breguet’s Paris workshop was located. Naturally, the engine turning is done on a hand-operated rose engine.

The final bit of the watch that’s a nod to Breguet’s history is the box, which is covered in red leather and instantly evokes boxes of the early- to mid-20th century.

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Key facts and price

Breguet Classique Souscription 2025
Ref. 2025BH/28/9W6

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 10.8 mm
Material: 18k “Breguet” gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: VS00
Functions: Hours
Winding: Manual wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 96 hours

Strap: Alligator strap with pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: First availability at boutiques, but also at retailers
Price: US$48,700; CHF45,000

For more information, visit Breguet.com.

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Bulgari made its debut at Watches & Wonders this year, having previously exhibited outside the fair. It was a fitting occasion to launch the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, the thinnest tourbillon watch ever at just 1.85 mm thick. Housed in the brand’s signature matte grey titanium case and limited to just 20 pieces, the Ultra Tourbillon is paired with an equally thin and silky titanium bracelet.

Bulgari is deeply invested in its leadership in ultra-thin watchmaking, and the Ultra Tourbillon shows the brand is willing to do whatever it takes to own as many records in this field as possible.

Initial thoughts

Despite its record-breaking slimness, there was surprisingly little buzz about the Ultra at Watches & Wonders. This may be due to record fatigue, since the previous record was set just last year by the Piaget AUC Tourbillon. It could also be due to the diminishing returns of these types of records, which are now being broken by almost imperceptible margins.

On its exterior, the Ultra Tourbillon is quite similar the 1.7 mm-thick Octo Finissimo Ultra introduced last year. It features a 40 mm case made from a combination of titanium and tungsten carbide, and is impressively open-worked, revealing just about every wheel and pinion on the dial side of the watch. But this watch is all about the headline figure of its 1.85 mm thickness, which endows the Ultra Tourbillon with a delicate, almost weightless feel.

Like all ultra-thin record-holders, the new BVF 900 flying tourbillon movement features a baseplate that is integral to the case back. This is a bit like some MotoGP engines that use the engine block as a structural part of the frame. Racing teams do this to save weight, and watchmakers do it to save precious tenths of millimeters.

Surprisingly, the movement beats at 4 Hz, which is a lively rate for any tourbillon, let alone something this thin. The energy consumption of the tourbillon can be roughly estimated by the 16% difference in power reserve between the BVL 180 and BVF 900, which runs for up to 42 hours rather than 50.

World records always come at a cost, and in this case that cost is US$678,000. This is about what I expected and less than half what Richard Mille charges for the RM UP-01, but it’s difficult to rationalise this pricing when records are falling this quickly. Regardless, Bulgari expects there are at least 20 people who will feel the need to own the thinnest tourbillon ever, and they’re probably right.

How they did it

The quest for ultra-slimness always starts by eliminating unnecessary layers in the watch, starting with the case back. The BVF 900 features a monobloc tungsten carbide main plate that also serves as the case back.

The rest of the movement’s components are spread out in a single layer across the dial, further minimising thickness. This gives the watch a highly technical look that enables the wearer to trace the flow of power visually from the mainspring barrel to the hands and, separately, to the flying tourbillon that is powered from its edge.

Another space-saving trick involves the crown, or should I say crowns, because there are two. To keep things simple, the operations for winding and setting have been divided between two crowns integrated into the case back, one on each side. The crown at eight o’clock winds the mainspring barrel, while its counterpart at three o’clock is used to adjust the time.

Because there’s nowhere for most of the components to hide, the user can clearly see how their inputs are working inside the watch, an effect that is both engaging and educational.

Though Bulgari hasn’t announced it officially, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon and BVF 900 movement were developed with the help of Concepto, the Swiss movement specialist that was also behind the earlier ultra-thin Octo watches. This explains the familial lineage that is apparent in the movement construction.

But there are costs to ultimate slimness. For example, the addition of the tourbillon meant losing some chronometric precision. This may seem counterintuitive, but the extra inertia of the tourbillon cage absorbs energy that would otherwise be transmitted to the balance. Furthermore, tourbillon movements (necessarily) have smaller oscillators than their peers with fixed escapements. As a result, the BVF 900 is not a COSC-certified chronometer like the BVL 180.

Another trade-off is in the way the balance is shock protected. In an ordinary mechanical watch, the balance staff rotates between jewels that are mounted with small springs, enabling them to absorb shocks, preventing damage to the movement.

But this traditional construction gets in the way of extreme thinness, and brands have found different ways to deal with this. For example, Piaget solved this problem by using a flying balance with a single pivot that rotates in a robust ball bearing.

Bulgari has found its own solution, borrowed from the BVL 180, that involves the use of flexible arms for the upper tourbillon cage. While this is likely more than enough to protect the movement in a watch like the Ultra Tourbillon that will probably not be subjected to everyday wear, this solution doesn’t feel as mature as the ball bearing pivots utilised by Piaget.

Impressively, the BVF 900 features some relatively traditional characteristics that are seldom seen on ultra-thin watches, like prominent skeletonisation, stacked hour and minute hands, and a grande sonnerie-style winding click.

Unfortunately, these traditional touches result in a few components that appear dangerously thin. For example, the hour and minute hands showed some distortion at some angles, likely resulting from when they were press-fit onto the cannon pinion.

Last year, the Piaget AUC Tourbillon impressed me because it felt more robust than it looked, offering a coin-like heft and sense of durability. In contrast, the Tourbillon Ultra feels somewhat fragile, on account of its skeletonisation and light weight.

The AUC  featured a solid case back with a small window for the tourbillon, while the Tourbillon Ultra offers three individual panes of sapphire crystal, revealing the back of the dial, the flying train wheels turning in ball bearings, and the entirety of the tourbillon cage. It’s truly an impressive display, but it increases the sensation of delicacy.

In terms of finishing, the look is very neat but clearly industrial. And it couldn’t really be any other way with a watch this thin; most of the components are simply too delicate to accommodate much in the way of anglage. But overall the monochromatic look works very well and suits the brutalist look of the Octo Finissimo case and bracelet.

Closing thoughts

The Tourbillon Ultra is an undeniably impressive watch. Not only are its dimensions record-breaking, but it offers an engaging, technical design that looks the part, and it feels almost weightless on the wrist. The bracelet is another nice touch that helps it stand out from the rest of the ultra-thin field, which are universally fitted with straps.

That said, the Tourbillon Ultra feels more like a concept watch than a real, wearable product, and some of the compromises made to achieve its 1.85 mm thickness feel like just that.

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Key facts and price

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Ultra
Ref. 103834

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 1.85 mm
Material: Titanium and tungsten carbide
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 10 m

Movement: BVF 900
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Manual wind
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Titanium bracelet with folding clasp

Limited edition: 20 pieces
Availability: From Bulgari boutiques
Price: $678,000 excluding taxes

For more, visit bulgari.com.

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Out to replicate the success of the Bel Canto and prove it’s not a one-hit wonder, Christopher Ward has introduced the C12 Loco. While the integrated bracelet look is now commonplace, the Loco breaks new ground for the British brand in terms of its differentiated movement architecture, and features an inverted free-sprung balance on the dial side of the watch.

Spiritual successor to the Bel Canto, the C12 Loco paints a picture of Christopher Ward’s ambitions as a brand. Like Louis Erard, which is on a similar mission to make traditional craft and independent design more accessible, Christopher Ward is looking to redefine what collectors should expect from entry level watchmaking.

Initial thoughts

The Twelve is Christopher Ward’s foray into integrated bracelet sport watches. Its launch in 2023 was not without some controversy, being seen as too similar to the Czapek Antarctique; it turned out both designs came from the mind of designer Adrian Buchmann. Despite the rocky start, the collection has been a commercial success and the brand has done a commendable job developing the line-up and keeping prices in check.

The Loco is the most ambitious Twelve to-date, with an off-center time display that opens up space at six o’clock for an exposed balance wheel and escapement. Like the Bel Canto, the watch does not feature the Christopher Ward brand name on the dial. In an era when attention is the name of the game, it’s nice to see a small brand with the confidence to let its design do the talking.

The Loco offers sensible proportions at 41 mm and 13.7 mm thick. Visually it’s going to wear a lot thinner, since 3.55 mm of that thickness is due to the highly domed box sapphire crystal that offers a three-dimensional view of the dial-side oscillator and multi-level dial.

The watch features the three-piece case from other Twelve models, so it has the familiar 12-sided bezel and tapering stainless steel bracelet that can be removed and reinstalled without tools. On an otherwise versatile case, one stat stands out in the negative, which is the 30 m water resistance rating. It’s probably plenty, but one should expect more security from such a sporty watch. According to Christopher Ward, the Loco does feature a screw-down crown, but more water resistance would have meant an even thicker crystal, and the brand choose to optimise for wearing comfort.

Most watches in this price tier use generic movements and focus on differentiated design, but the Loco is all about its movement. The CW-003 is a manually wound six-day movement with twin mainspring barrels and an inverted free-sprung balance positioned on the dial side of the watch. Beyond its specs, the movement is interesting due to its three-dimensional architecture, which is unusually appealing.

The Loco is a lot of watch for US$4,825 on a steel bracelet. It’s one of those watches that makes me wonder how my own collecting journey would be different if I were starting out again today as a young collector. For those who appreciate the integrated bracelet aesthetic and enjoy sculptural watchmaking, it’s worth a serious look.

How we got here

If your first thought when seeing the CW-003 movement was “Where did this come from?” then you’re in good company. It’s visually striking in a way that makes its hard to see its roots in the earlier SH21, the brand’s first in-house movement from 2014.

Christopher Ward’s path to making its own movements should sound familiar. Wishing to insulate itself from supply risks, the brand collaborated with Biel-based manufacturer Synergies Horlogères to develop a double-barreled movement based on the tried-and-true Valjoux cal. 7750 architecture.

The SH21 movement debuted in 2014, the same year Christopher Ward merged with Synergies Horlogères. Over the next decade, the brand continued to make watches powered by the SH21 alongside entry level models powered by Sellita movements.

But the brand was relatively quiet, making mostly cookie cutter dive, pilot, and dress watches. Things changed in a big way in 2022 when the Christopher Ward introduced the Bel Canto, an affordable hour-striker that put the business end of the movement, namely the hammer, gong, and column wheel, front-and-center on the dial.

More importantly, they found a way to make these components look good and form the basis of the entire design, a trait that usually carries a five-figure price tag. The Loco is the next step and continues this theme.

A worthy oscillator

When you put the oscillator on the dial, it’s important to get it right, so it’s fitting that the CW-003 debuts the brand’s first-ever free-sprung balance. All prior Christopher Ward watches have been adjusted by means of a curb-pin regulator, common to most entry level watch movements. While cheap and effective, curb-pin regulators can drift over time and reduce the hairspring’s ability to breathe concentrically.

For decades, free-sprung balances were the exclusive domain of Patek Philippe and Rolex, and didn’t become common even in high-end watchmaking until the early 2000s. Since that time, more advanced manufacturing techniques have enabled this technology to diffuse broadly throughout the industry. While many Christopher Ward watches are COSC-certified to run within -4 to + 6 seconds per day, the CW-003 is certified to an internal benchmark of -0 to +7 seconds per day.

A mechanical education on the wrist

The CW-003’s free-sprung balance is positioned at six o’clock and is supported by a large bridge that spans the entire width of the dial. A second bridge reveals the escape wheel, and the entire construction is visible from multiple angles thanks to the box sapphire crystal, making the C12 Loco something of an escapement model for the wrist, not unlike far pricier watches like the MB&F LM101.

The upper half of the dial is occupied by a a small display for the hours and minutes flanked by a screwed dial plate. The upper and lower dial surfaces are available in a variety of colours, including black, white, blue, and orange.

The time display is similar to that of the Bel Canto, positioned off-center and comprised of multiple applied elements that provide depth to the design. An intriguing details is the moat-like opening around the cannon pinion that reveals a portion of the motion works.

Party in the back

Unlike the Bel Canto, which features a lively and dynamic dial construction that sits on top of a comparatively pedestrian Sellita movement, the CW-003 is almost equally enthralling on the back. This is where the movement’s roots in the SH21 are most apparent, with two large exposed mainspring barrels that help provide six days’ worth of energy for the balance, which ticks at the 4 Hz rate embedded in its DNA.

Of course, the bridge forms have been entirely reworked into three large cocks that support the barrels and the intermediate winding wheel. At this price point the finishing is necessarily industrial, but smart choices have been made that enhance the overall appearance.

The angular cocks, for example, feature large facets and flanks that can be cleanly machine-finished, and the monochromatic colour palette and simple slate of surface textures help emphasise the three-dimensional nature of the design. The result is what might be the most dramatically architected movement under US$5,000.

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Key facts and price

Christopher Ward C12 Loco

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 13.7 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: CW-003
Functions: Hours and minutes
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Manual
Power reserve: 144 hours

Strap: Stainless steel bracelet or rubber strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Starting April 24, 2025 at 3 pm GMT at Christopher Ward online store
Price: US$4,595 on the rubber strap; US$4,825 on the bracelet

For more, visit christopherward.com.

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Vacheron Constantin is marking its 270th anniversary with the record-setting, most-complicated-watch-ever, the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication. Fortunately, the celebratory line-up also includes the more affordable: one step down in the collection is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 270th Anniversary.

Less complicated than the Solaria, but still one of the top-of-the-line anniversary offerings, the Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is an entirely new model, rather than an existing model dressed in anniversary livery. The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar combines the self-winding cal. 2160 with a perpetual calendar mechanism, while both the dial and movement get the 270th anniversary-exclusive treatment.

Initial thoughts

The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is a fairly large but thin watch, with a clean, traditional design with tasteful elaboration. Formal on its face, the watch gets more interesting up close with the anniversary decor on the dial and movement. Overall, the look and feel is elegant; essentially the type of watch that Vacheron Constantin (VC) does well.

The execution is high quality and typical of an established, industrial-artisanal brand. The tourbillon bridge and cage stand out as being especially finely finished. Notably, the guilloche on the dial is done the traditional way, on a hand-operated straight-line engine – which is necessary for a watch of this price – while on the entry-level anniversary models the same pattern is achieved via stamping.

The guilloche is unique to the anniversary models, and the pattern arguably works better here than on the simpler models as the effect is more subtle since the sub-dials occupy most of the real estate.

The other anniversary-exclusive element is the côte unique finish on the movement bridges. Essentially a type of concentric graining that is inspired by the decor of vintage pocket watch movements, it unexpectedly complements the modern construction of the movement.

Even though the anniversary touches are obvious and appealing, I would have liked more done to make this edition stand out, like a different dial material or an elaboration on the movement decoration. While I see the need for uniformity amongst the 270th anniversary models, this is the most expensive anniversary edition by far, so it could do with a little more.

On that note, while the quality of execution is on par with peers like Patek Philippe, some of the detailing can be refined. Certainly brands like VC are aware of this, and more recent calibres illustrate that. The base calibre in the Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, on the other hand, was introduced over seven years ago.

The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is priced a little over US$270,000, which is a lot but par for the course for this blend of complications. The Lange 1 with the same features, but a more innovative perpetual calendar mechanism, costs more.

Complication and chronometry

As is expected for a brand like VC, the presentation is traditional. The calendar indications sit in three registers, while the leap year is discreetly shown in a small aperture at one o’clock. Both in terms of design and functions, the Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar has historical basis, with its combination of features harking back to a similar watch revealed in 2005 for the brand’s 250th anniversary.

Although the watch is largish, it has good proportions. The diameter is 42 mm, but the thickness is a little over 11 mm, which is pretty compact for a self-winding tourbillon movement with a perpetual calendar. On the wrist, it feels wide but thin, which is appealing.

Though simple on the front, the Traditionnelle case has interesting detailing in profile. The lugs are subtly modelled on the Maltese cross, the brand’s logo, while the case back has a coin-edge rim.

At a distance, the dial looks entirely conventional and maybe even a little staid. But up close the anniversary guilloche gives it life. Although a simple in concept, the anniversary engine turning adds novelty with its modern, geometric aspect.

That said, I would liked a little more done on the front so that it stands out, although as I conceded earlier, there is a point in giving the anniversary models a consistent theme.

Unsurprisingly, the Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is powered by a slim movement, the cal. 2162 QP/270. It’s based on the cal. 2160, the brand’s first automatic movement with a tourbillon that was launched in 2018 inside the Traditionnelle Tourbillon. And on top is the perpetual calendar module that VC has employed in the past.

The most notable detail of the base movement is its peripheral rotor. All things being equal, this makes the cal. 2160 slimmer than an automatic with a full-rotor. At the same time, it leaves room for a larger barrel, which would otherwise not be possible if a micro-rotor was employed.

Peripheral rotors are decades old, but only recently became efficient enough to be employed on a relatively large scale. Besides the advantage of thinness, this winding mechanism also affords a full view of the movement.

One of the details that easily stands out is the winding mechanism at one o’clock. It’s based on the “Magic Lever” that was originally devised by Seiko in the 1960s but now widely used in high-end movements. The system possesses the advantages of efficiency, thinness, and robust simplicity. It does, however, take up more space than other winding mechanisms, which is not an obstacle given the space savings of the peripheral winding mechanism.

While the movement is identical in all technical respects to the standard versions of the calibre, it has been given the special finish that is also found on the other anniversary models.

The côte unique graining on the bridges has an old school feel to it, and its simplicity allows the rest of the movement elements to appear more prominent.

The movement is decorated in the industrial-artisanal manner that is typical of VC and its peers. That means some machine-applied finishing, though almost everything is given a final once-over by hand.

As I noted above, there are details that should be refined – we don’t see that here but do on newer movement constructions.

The most elaborate bit of finishing is found on the front of the watch. The tourbillon cage takes the form of the Maltese cross and shows off detailing that is definitely the work of manual decoration. And it is secured by a steel bridge with rounded arms that is similarly finished by hand.

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Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 270th Anniversary
Ref. 6300/000P-H056

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 11.1 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 2162 QP/270
Features: Hours, minutes, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Alligator with folding buckle

Limited edition: 127 pieces
Availability: At Vacheron Constantin boutiques only
Price: US$273,000 before taxes

For more, visit vacheron-constantin.com.

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Patek Philippe came to Watches & Wonders 2025 with a deep bench of strong new releases, but for fans of the classic Calatrava, the standout was without question the Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001. It’s an easy watch to love, with good proportions, a hefty 38 mm platinum case, a lively “salmon” dial, and is powered by the brand’s latest generation movement.

Though the brand was arguably overshadowed this year by its suburban Geneva neighbors Rolex and Vacheron Constantin, at lower and higher ends of the price spectrum, respectively, Patek Philippe demonstrated its ability to deliver in every category, from simple dress and sport watches to mid and high complications.

Initial thoughts

In February 2017 I was asked what I wished to see from Baselworld that year. I said I’d like to see a successor to the ref. 5196 with a case-filling movement and a large balance.

Eight years later, Patek Philippe delivered more or less exactly what I imagined, keeping the proportions and details of the classic Calatrava with a more advanced movement than the outdated cal. 215 that was used at the time. So in a sense, this watch was made for me. 

But I had not anticipated a “salmon” dial. Officially labelled “rose-gilt opaline” by Patek Philippe, such dials have become popular among collectors, and are now a staple across the Patek Philippe collection. Naturally, a vivid colour like this helps an otherwise simple watch stand out, but personally I look forward to more toned down iterations in the future when this model inevitably launches in white and rose gold.

That said, I appreciate the blackened gold dauphine hands and applied dial markers. While they have a tendency to oxidise, they are part of the brand’s visual language for identifying special pieces; you’ll find them on some of the brand’s most outstanding watches like the ref. 5101P tourbillon and ref. 5959A split-seconds chronograph.

The design, fit, and finish of the case will feel instantly familiar to anyone who’s worn a contemporary Calatrava, even if it’s on the larger side at 38 mm and 9.33 mm thick. For those keeping score, it’s 1 mm larger than the ref. 5196, and about 1.5 mm thicker. Interestingly, it’s also about 1 mm thicker than the current ref. 6119G, despite being technically identical.

I speculate that the case thickness was selected as a design consideration to give the watch more robust proportions, and I think it works. Compared to the ref. 6119G, which feels a bit like a dinner plate on my wrist, the ref. 6196P feels more substantial and occupies a smaller visual footprint. Of course, being a platinum Patek Philippe, it also has the signature diamond placed between the lugs at six o’clock.

The watch is powered by one of my favourite manually wound time-only movements, the cal. 30-255 PS. While it’s a fairly industrial movement, with a silicon hairspring and large bridges, it’s very slim at just 2.55 mm thick and features two large mainspring barrels that contribute to the movement’s exceptional chronometric characteristics. As a result, Patek Philippe certifies this caliber to run between -1 and +2 seconds per day, which exceeds even Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer specification.

One aspect of the ref. 6196P that gives me pause is its price, which is hard to justify at US$47,130. This represents a 39% premium over its sibling, the ref. 6119G, which features the same movement and a more elaborate case in gold. In this comparative context, it’s worth noting that at the time this story is being written, the spot price of gold is two-and-a-half times that of platinum.

That said, the real justification for the pricing is straightforward; Patek Philippe has always treated platinum models as special and priced them accordingly. It’s an anachronism, but it’s part of the brand mystique.

A thoroughly modern Calatrava

What really makes a simple three-hand watch special is often found within, and that is definitely the case with the ref. 6196P. But to really understand it, we need to briefly look back at the journey Patek Philippe has been on over the past few decades with its simple, manually wound movements.

By the time I first got into watches around 2008, the cal. 215 that powered the ref. 5196 was already fairly outdated, having been introduced in 1974. This could been seen primarily in terms of its 22 mm diameter. This small size made it a versatile movement, usable in many different case sizes, but the small size limited the performance that the brand could squeeze out of it.

Even though the cal. 215 was a great movement with a free-sprung Gyromax balance, it felt like a step backward from the brand’s earlier work, especially movements like the cal. 23-300 that featured more elegant bridges and overcoil hairsprings.

In this context, the 2021 introduction of the cal. 30-255 PS felt like a moment many Patek Philippe enthusiasts had been waiting for, myself among them. To start with, it’s almost 50% wider than the cal. 215, at 31 mm. This opened up room for an extra mainspring barrel and an extra-flat gear train that is spread out thanks to the addition of an intermediate wheel that meshes with the center pinion.

This enables the cal. 30-255 PS to match the cal. 215’s 2.55 mm thickness, while increasing the power reserve by 47% to 65 hours. More importantly, however, the dual-barrel arrangement provides a more stable torque curve, contributing to the movement’s outstanding performance.

The other significant aspect of the cal. 30-255 PS that enables it to run within -1 to +2 seconds per day is, of course, its silicon hairspring. While there are still traditionalists who prefer metallic hairsprings, either for sentimental reasons or due to concerns about (very) long-term serviceability, there is now overwhelming evidence that silicon hairsprings make for better timekeepers.

While I personally prefer the charm of an overcoil, I can’t help but be impressed with what Patek Philippe has achieved with its plug-and-play silicon hairsprings, which are engineered with thicker terminal curves to replicate the even breathing of traditional overcoils.

In terms of finishing, the cal. 30-255 PS is fairly industrial. It’s clear that several obvious opportunities for extravagant flourishes like inner anglage were avoided in order to make the movement more cost-effective to produce, and that much of the finishing is applied by machine.

Despite these concessions to modernity, there’s not much to fault. All of Patek Philippe’s entry level movements are finished to a similar standard, and I’m always impressed by how nice they look given the brand’s scale. To the naked eye, the anglage and polished screw heads gleam in the light, and even the components hidden under the dial are treated with appropriate care.

Closing thoughts

There’s no doubt the ref. 6196P is a serious watch for serious people. Its pricing is questionable, but it has a commanding presence for a time-only watch thanks to its salmon dial and it offers an almost perfect encapsulation of the Calatrava’s iconic design language. Furthermore, it finally has a technically impressive movement that lives up to the name on the dial.

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Key facts and price

Patek Philippe Calatrava
Ref. 6196P-001

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 9.33 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 30-255 PS
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Hand wind
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Alligator with gold pin buckle

Availability: Now at retailers
Price: US$47,130 excluding taxes

For more, visit Patek.com.

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