During the recent LVMH Watch Week, Louis Vuitton revealed new, luxe variants of its Tambour (alongside the unexpected Convergence). Originally launched in relatively conservative guises, the slim sports watch now gets more interesting – and pricey – with the use of ceramic and gemstones.

A nod to the brand’s monogram canvas, the Tambour Ceramic is a mix of brushed brown ceramic and 18k pink gold. And the pair of “High End” models is made up of the Tambour Platinum Rainbow sporting sapphires and rubies (pictured above), and the Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx that’s set with orange sapphires.

The Tambour Ceramic

Initial thoughts

I like the Tambour because it’s an appealing design that wears notably well. The thin case sits flat on the wrist and the feel is elegant. Though the styling is more subtle than earlier versions of the Tambour, most of which were large and chunky, the new Tambour is still a recognisable design that retains elements of the drum-like originals.

The new versions are appealing for the same reason, but upgraded in terms of materials. There’s nothing to complain about, except the cost. The ceramic model is €75,000 while the platinum “rainbow” is €150,000 – fair relative to the market but still hefty. These are on par with equivalent watches from comparable brands, and the small number made help rationalise the numbers.

The Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx is a limited edition of just 30

However, the new Tambour models share the same LFT023.01 found in the original versions. Made by an external specialist, the calibre is dressed up well with Louis Vuitton’s now-trademark decoration, but arguably isn’t comprehensively sophisticated enough for a watch like this.

The brand, however, has proven it can produce suitably high-end calibres with the suite of in-house movements that just debuted with the new Tambour Taiko. Presumably, the new family of in-house calibres will only make it into the second-generation of the slim Tambour.

The LFT023.01

Upgraded materials

Presented in a brown similar to the signature monogram canvas, the Tambour Ceramic seems identical to the steel or gold equivalent, but its construction is entirely different due to the nature of ceramic. This revamped construction explains part of the price, as does the hand finishing of the ceramic, which is both brushed and mirror polished.

The construction of the external components is substantially more complex than that for the metal equivalent. The ceramic case middle employs an 18k pink gold inner case and back to hold the movement, while the bracelet is made up of an 18k pink gold chain that is clad in ceramic.

The movement is identical to that in the other Tambour models, and the two-tone dial is also executed similarly, but done in a dark brown that matches the case.

The top-of-the-line model is the Tambour Platinum Rainbow. The case and bracelet are both in platinum, which makes this the heaviest Tambour by far.

The bezel is set with 2.19 carats of baguette-cut sapphires and rubies arranged in a rainbow gradient. This motif is continued on the brushed, two-tone dial, which has sapphire and ruby hour markers echoing the rainbow gradient.

Similarly set with gemstones is the Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx. The case and bracelet are in 18k yellow gold, while the bezel is set with 48 baguette-cut orange sapphires. The gemstones are less extravagant than they sound, because the orange stones complement, rather than contrast with, the yellow gold.

The sapphires on the bezel are matched with orange sapphire hour markers. But unlike other variants of the Tambour that make do with brass dials, this is onyx, giving the dial a mirrored, deep black appearance.

Key facts and price

Louis Vuitton Tambour Ceramic
Ref. W1CR10

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 8.3 mm
Material: Brown ceramic and 18k pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: LFT023.01
Features: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Ceramic and gold bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Louis Vuitton boutiques
Price: €75,000

Louis Vuitton Tambour High-End
Ref. W1PT10 (Tambour Platinum Rainbow)
Ref. W1YG20 (Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx)

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 8.3 mm
Material: Platinum or 18k yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: LFT023.01
Features: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Platinum or yellow gold bracelet

Limited edition: 50 in platinum, and 30 in yellow gold
Availability: At Louis Vuitton boutiques
Price: €150,000 in platinum; €130,000 in yellow gold

For more, visit Louisvuitton.com.