Now entering its second year, Alto has returned with two new editions of its debut model, the Art 01. The Art 01 Monochrome Grey and Monochrome Black editions feature bead-blasted titanium cases that enhance the brand’s distinctive futurist aesthetic.

Founded by Thibaud Guittard, the Paris-based brand has also announced the arrival of Raphaël Abeillon as Creative Director. Mr Abeillon joins Alto after more than a decade designing watches at Cartier.

Initial thoughts

Over the past few years, many brands have doubled down on integrated bracelet sport watches and historical re-issues, leading to fatigue among collectors and insiders alike. In this context, the Alto Art 01 is a breath of fresh air, pulling inspiration from far-flung fields like yacht design, cinema, and contemporary art.

While the hexagonal louvered dial is unusual and attractive, the Art 01 shines because of its case design. Reasonably sized at 45 mm x 40 mm, the bead-blasted titanium case features faceted sapphire crystals front and back. Thanks to its slim micro-rotor movement, the Art 01 is quite svelte at just 8 mm thick.

The Art 01 is powered by a bespoke micro-rotor movement made for Alto by Le Cercle des Horlogers. On paper, the movement looks fairly ordinary, ticking at 4 Hz and running for 48 hours on a full wind. That said, the movement is unusual in that it is open-worked and partially made of titanium, which contributes to the light weight of the watch.

In terms of pricing, the Monochrome Editions are priced at €25,500, which is a lot of money for an industrially produced watch from a startup brand. That said, it’s priced fairly compared to other watches that share the same movement DNA, especially considering the complex processes required to produce the angular titanium case and faceted sapphire crystals. And while not a limited edition per se, production will be lower than most limited editions in the industry, with around 20 pieces produced this year.

Cassette futurism

The original Art 01, introduced last year, was brought to life with the help of designer Barth Nussbaumer, who has worked with numerous independent watchmakers including Petermann Bedat and Kollokium. It’s difficult to succinctly describe the aesthetic, which is said to take inspiration from the designs of Giorgetto Giugiaro and Luca Bassani.

To my eye, the monochrome editions, especially the grey variant, play into themes associated with the aesthetic style known as ‘cassette futurism.’ The matte finish and angular shapes of the case and crystal also remind me of 1980s concept cars like the Citroën Karin, the Nissan NX-21, and the Bertone-designed Lamborghini Athon.

All of this is to say it’s about as far from another vintage remake as you can get. The cases themselves are rendered in bead-blasted grade 5 titanium, while the black variant is further treated with a DLC coating. A matching rubber strap with quick release springs bars completes the package.

Inside the Art 01

As a new brand, Alto chose to partner with a supplier rather than develop the movement in-house, which is almost always the right choice for smaller brands. The Alto A01 is produced by Le Cercle des Horlogers and is related to the CH200.CHSA micro-rotor automatic movement, which also served as the starting point for the LFT023 that powers the new Louis Vuitton Tambour.

But the A01 is far from off-the-shelf, and its unusual construction is likely a significant contributor to the price of the watch. In particular, the mainplate of the movement is made of grade 5 titanium, while the rotor is made of Reconit 18, a dense alloy that is mostly tungsten.

The finishing is industrial but attractive, in keeping with the futuristic character of the watch. Thanks to its titanium mainplate and open-worked brass bridges, the movement weighs just 18.4 grams, helping the Art 01 achieve an impressively light weight of just 56 grams overall.

Key facts and price

Alto Art 01 Monochrome Grey and Monochrome Black
Ref. MK2 TI (black)
Ref. MK3 TI (grey)

Diameter: 45 x 40 mm
Height: 8 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. A01
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Rubber strap with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: Direct from Alto
Price: €25,500 including VAT

For more, visit altowatches.com.

During the recent LVMH Watch Week, Louis Vuitton revealed new, luxe variants of its Tambour (alongside the unexpected Convergence). Originally launched in relatively conservative guises, the slim sports watch now gets more interesting – and pricey – with the use of ceramic and gemstones.

A nod to the brand’s monogram canvas, the Tambour Ceramic is a mix of brushed brown ceramic and 18k pink gold. And the pair of “High End” models is made up of the Tambour Platinum Rainbow sporting sapphires and rubies (pictured above), and the Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx that’s set with orange sapphires.

The Tambour Ceramic

Initial thoughts

I like the Tambour because it’s an appealing design that wears notably well. The thin case sits flat on the wrist and the feel is elegant. Though the styling is more subtle than earlier versions of the Tambour, most of which were large and chunky, the new Tambour is still a recognisable design that retains elements of the drum-like originals.

The new versions are appealing for the same reason, but upgraded in terms of materials. There’s nothing to complain about, except the cost. The ceramic model is €75,000 while the platinum “rainbow” is €150,000 – fair relative to the market but still hefty. These are on par with equivalent watches from comparable brands, and the small number made help rationalise the numbers.

The Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx is a limited edition of just 30

However, the new Tambour models share the same LFT023.01 found in the original versions. Made by an external specialist, the calibre is dressed up well with Louis Vuitton’s now-trademark decoration, but arguably isn’t comprehensively sophisticated enough for a watch like this.

The brand, however, has proven it can produce suitably high-end calibres with the suite of in-house movements that just debuted with the new Tambour Taiko. Presumably, the new family of in-house calibres will only make it into the second-generation of the slim Tambour.

The LFT023.01

Upgraded materials

Presented in a brown similar to the signature monogram canvas, the Tambour Ceramic seems identical to the steel or gold equivalent, but its construction is entirely different due to the nature of ceramic. This revamped construction explains part of the price, as does the hand finishing of the ceramic, which is both brushed and mirror polished.

The construction of the external components is substantially more complex than that for the metal equivalent. The ceramic case middle employs an 18k pink gold inner case and back to hold the movement, while the bracelet is made up of an 18k pink gold chain that is clad in ceramic.

The movement is identical to that in the other Tambour models, and the two-tone dial is also executed similarly, but done in a dark brown that matches the case.

The top-of-the-line model is the Tambour Platinum Rainbow. The case and bracelet are both in platinum, which makes this the heaviest Tambour by far.

The bezel is set with 2.19 carats of baguette-cut sapphires and rubies arranged in a rainbow gradient. This motif is continued on the brushed, two-tone dial, which has sapphire and ruby hour markers echoing the rainbow gradient.

Similarly set with gemstones is the Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx. The case and bracelet are in 18k yellow gold, while the bezel is set with 48 baguette-cut orange sapphires. The gemstones are less extravagant than they sound, because the orange stones complement, rather than contrast with, the yellow gold.

The sapphires on the bezel are matched with orange sapphire hour markers. But unlike other variants of the Tambour that make do with brass dials, this is onyx, giving the dial a mirrored, deep black appearance.

Key facts and price

Louis Vuitton Tambour Ceramic
Ref. W1CR10

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 8.3 mm
Material: Brown ceramic and 18k pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: LFT023.01
Features: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Ceramic and gold bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Louis Vuitton boutiques
Price: €75,000

Louis Vuitton Tambour High-End
Ref. W1PT10 (Tambour Platinum Rainbow)
Ref. W1YG20 (Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx)

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 8.3 mm
Material: Platinum or 18k yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: LFT023.01
Features: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Platinum or yellow gold bracelet

Limited edition: 50 in platinum, and 30 in yellow gold
Availability: At Louis Vuitton boutiques
Price: €150,000 in platinum; €130,000 in yellow gold

For more, visit Louisvuitton.com.

Bell & Ross, the Franco-Swiss watchmaker celebrated for its aviation instrument-inspired timepieces, ventures into the celestial realm with the BR-03 Astro. This striking new model, limited to 999 pieces, takes inspiration from the larger theme of space exploration, capturing the  Earth, Moon, and Mars within its avant-garde dial.

Despite the seemingly cosmic display, the dial only indicates the hours, minutes, and seconds in a conventional manner, keeping the watch affordable. By merging sharp execution with a cosmic narrative, Bell & Ross introduces an imaginative take on its mostly functional “tool” watches.

Initial thoughts 

At the core of the BR-03 Astro sits a unique, if simplistic, reinterpretation of a “planetary” movement. Over the celestial aventurine glass base, a tiny Mars indicates the hours, a realistic-looking Moon indicates the minutes, and a satellite marks the passing seconds. All these indicators revolve around a large Earth that rests immobile at the centre of the dial. 

What is basically a three-hand watch becomes a rather immersive reinterpretation of the universe. While the motion of the planets is not accurate, the interplay of these well-reproduced celestial bodies has an undeniable appeal to it.

The BR-03 Astro is not an astronomical complication nor an accurate cosmos model but manages to appeal through its playful take on the space theme, while staying in the same price range as the more conventional BR-03 models. This is an interesting proposition for both fans of the brand and anyone interested in a space-themed watch.

Inspired by the ISS

Echoing the Cupola observation dome of the International Space Station (ISS), the dial of the BR-03 Astro acts as a porthole into the universe — a feeling accentuated by the austere, screwed square bezel inspired by a fighter jet instrument panel.

The Earth, large and central, is intricately recessed beneath the sapphire crystal, creating a three-dimensional effect. The crystal had to be shaped with a spherical cap, in order to accommodate the Earth model. 

The Moon and Mars are crafted with laser-engraved detailing to replicate their respective cratered and rough surfaces. The Moon has a bright silvered finish which complements its texture.

Modern execution and clean looks

The BR-03 Astro is powered by the BR-CAL.327, a 4 Hz automatic movement, boasting a 54-hour power reserve. While the movement is based on the Sellita SW300, Bell & Ross watchmakers put some thought into making the cosmic time-telling format reliable. 

Usually the minutes hand is longer than the hours hand, but here it is the other way around. That must be because the Moon model is quite large and its inertial load on the movement needed to be compensated for. Mars is actually printed on a translucent disk, giving the impression of it floating over the aventurine space.

While the dial is fancy, the rest of the watch is all black. Encased in micro-blasted black ceramic, the case is robust and well-sized at 41 mm by 11.5 mm. The signature screws securing the bezel are blacked as well. The entire execution seems to guide the eye towards the dynamic dial. 

Key facts and price

Bell & Ross BR 03 Astro
Ref. BR03A-EMM-CE/SRB

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 11.5 mm
Material: Black ceramic
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: BR-CAL.327
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 54 hours

Strap: Rubber with PVD black steel pin buckle

Limited edition: 999 pieces 
Availability: From Bell & Ross’ online shop, boutiques, and authorised retailers
Price: US$4,800

For more, visit bellross.com.