Having unveiled its first Vianney Halter collaboration in 2020, Louis Erard now follows up with the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II that’s notably superior in style and details. Modelled on the Antiqua perpetual calendar, the Le Régulateur Vianney Halter II retains the usual Louis Erard regulator format, but smartly tweaked to replicate key elements of the Antiqua, including the rivets on the bezel, case profile, and multi-part dial.

The new regulator is offered in two limited editions of 178 pieces each: the one with a silvered dial and gilt chapter rings is available only on Louis Erard’s online store, while the second edition with an inverted dial finish will only be sold at the brand’s retailers around the world.

The Louis Erard e-commerce exclusive (left), and the retailer edition

Initial thoughts

Louis Erard has rolled out numerous collaborations with independent watchmakers. Most of them are convincing tributes to the original, but of varying levels of customisation. A good number of them employ the stock regulator case but with an edition-specific dial, which was the case for the first Vianney Halter collab.

The new Vianney Halter regulator, on the other hand, features components unique to this model, giving it a distinctive look. The dial, case, bezel, and case back are all made for this edition, with only the movement being stock. As result, this captures the look and feel of the original watch that inspired it much better than past collaborations.

But it is fundamentally a Louis Erard regulator, which means it is relatively large and thick, especially compared to the Antiqua, which, despite its outlandish appearance, is actually a compact watch. All that, however, is forgivable considering the affordability of the watch.

The Vianney Halter regulator is about 15% more expensive than the brand’s prior collaborations with independents (like the recent Kudoke edition). But the extra cost is easily justified by the fact that this isn’t just a reworked dial as with the first Vianney Halter edition. And not only is the case unique to this edition, it has more sophisticated finishing than the typical Louis Erard regulator.

As is often the case with Louis Erard’s limited editions, the Vianney Halter regulator also incorporates subtle humour, reflecting the personality of Manuel Emch, the mastermind behind Louis Erard’s recent revival. Each of the two editions retail for CHF4,444, so a buyer has to purchase both to obtain a bill of CHF8,888 – an auspicious number in Chinese culture.

Vianney Halter (left), and Manuel Emch of Louis Erard

Steampunk

The Vianney Halter regulator takes the classic Louis Erard regulator case middle, but repositions the crown to two o’clock to reproduce the off-centred sub-dials of the Antiqua. The case measures 43 mm and just under 11 mm high, typical for the Louis Erard regulator.

Both the bezel and case back reproduce the style of the Antiqua, both a flat back and a bezel secured by gold-plated rivets. Notably, the rivets continue onto the crown, as on the original.

The same holds true for the dial, which has a two-tone finish. The dial base has a vertically brushed surface, while the applied chapter rings are concentrically brushed. Both are plated in contrasting finishes and matched with blued steel hands in the typical Vianney Halter style.

As an aside, this is also a tribute to Jeff Barnes in some ways, since the distinctive steampunk aesthetic of the Antiqua (and the subsequent Classic and Trio) were conceived by the American industrial designer, and then realised by Mr Halter, who was probably the only watchmaker at the time able to pull it off.

The only bit of the watch that remains identical to the other regulator models is the movement, which is a Sellita SW266-1 plus the Louis Erard regulator display module on top. It’s a basic movement that is functional but not much to look that, although it’s visible through the open back.

Key facts and price

Louis Erard Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II
Ref. 85246AA02.BVA172 (e-commerce exclusive)
Ref. 85246AA03.BVA172 (retail exclusive)

Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 10.95 mm
Material: Stainless steel with gold-plated rivets
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Sellita SW266-1
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 38 hours
Frequency: 28,8000 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Strap: Calfskin with pin buckle

Limited edition: 178 pieces each
Availability: Now at Louis Erard online store and retailers respectively
Price: CHF4,444

For more, visit louiserard.com.