Twenty-twenty will remain as a most peculiar year for the world as well as for trade fairs. Having taken place August 26-29,Geneva Watch Days (GWD) might be the only physical show the watch industry will see this year, at least in Europe. How did it fare? Was it a success for the brands, media, and public? Here is an overview of the atmosphere.

After the demise of Baselworld and the rescheduling of Watches & Wonders to Shanghai (will it really happen?), GWD was a ray of light in the dark times the watch community was experiencing. First mooted by Jean-Christophe Babin, chief executive of Bulgari, and a few other watch brands, GWD quickly grew as many brands hopped on the bandwagon, hoping to salvage what already looked like an annus horribilis.

“Phygital” is the new normal

More than 20 brands were showing during the four days of GWD, which was a series of exhibitions and events at venues across Geneva, rather than being concentrated in a large hall as the traditional fairs are.

Most brands were part of GWD itself – Artya, Breitling, Bulgari, Bovet, De Bethune, Czapek, Ferdinand Berthoud, H.Moser & Cie., Gerald Genta, Girard-Perregaux, MB&F, Maurice Lacroix, Louis Moinet, Ulysse Nardin, and Urwerk.

But the official GWD exhibitors were accompanied by an array of independent brands more than happy to share a common audience. Carl F. Bucherer tagged along by presenting its novelties at the Bucherer store in Geneva, while Le Salon des Horlogers, a small, cosy store in the city centre, hosted some notable independent watchmakers: Romain Gauthier, Ludovic Ballouard, Kari Voutilainen, and Laurent Ferrier.

Accompanied by nonstop emails containing press releases for new watches, a flurry of pictures on social media- GWD seemed like an almost-normal watch fair.

The Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon at GWD. Photo – Ulysse Nardin

The pleasure of finally being able to examine new timepieces in real life was tangible. Everyone was excited to touch and feel the novelties, try them on and scrutinise every detail. To name a few highlights: the Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RE, Bulgari’s sixth world record with the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph, the Gerald Genta Arena Bi-Retro, Ulysse Nardin’s new Blast Tourbillon, and the Infinity editions at Girard-Perregaux.

At the same time, most brands organised digital presentations for overseas journalists and clients who could not make it to Geneva – mostly those in Asia, the United States and Middle East. The quality of the presentations seem to have greatly improved, as brands realise the potential of virtual exhibitions and get a better feel of how to pull it off in an attractive fashion. Complete with cameos by brand ambassadors and presented by chief executive Georges Kern, Breitling’s webcast to launch of the new Endurance Pro was a good example of what is being done now.

The Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RE movement

Europe showed up

General consensus amongst the exhibiting brands is that a large number of journalists showed up, as well as a good proportion of Europe’s retailers. A vast majority of participants came from around Switzerland, but also from all major European countries: France, the Netherlands, Germany, Italy, Spain, and even across from Channel from the United Kingdom. Even a few Russian visitors were spotted.

Most of the brand PR people claimed they were almost as busy as at a normal watch fair, which was probably a bit exaggerated, as the Calvinist city was definitely not as lively as it was with SIHH. 

The salespeople seemed satisfied with the turnout and more importantly, the orders for new watches from retailers, who seemed to be making up for the wasted time and being deprived of new launches for most of the year to date.

The reception building for GWD. Photo – GWD

Brands also went the extra mile to support to the their retailers – in certain cases – for instance by granting exclusive sales rights for some new launches for a limited period. The new Bulgari Aluminium line, for example, will be available at retailers only for the first two months.

Other brands embraced the digital world completely by launching some models exclusively online, like Bulgari with the Gerald Genta Arena Bi-Retro that will only be available online, or the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Infinity Limited Edition, which will be offered only on Mr. Porter for the first month.

We are social animals

Despite the year so far, the overall atmosphere at GWD was laid back and relaxed. You could feel the happiness of people who could finally meet face-to-face – even behind a face mask. The greater watchmaking family was thrilled to finally reconvene after a long time apart.

It was heart-warming to see familiar faces, exchange thoughts and ideas in person, joke and laugh together, instead of being alone behind a screen. GWD was proof that physical and digital can co-exist, and in fact work well together. At the same time, the smaller, more local approach of GWD ticked a lot of boxes as far as conviviality was concerned.  

The chief executives of the participating brands. Photo – GWD

One of the major verdicts of GWD is confirmation that nothing can replace the human side of the business. Physical proximity – even if contactless – encourages a better communication; solicits genuine, immediate feedback; and provides an authentic intimacy that is useful in an industry centred on very small objects. That is proof that the physical trade show is indeed necessary and useful, no matter the scale or setting.

Bravo to the leaders who believed in the decentralised format of GWD and saw it through during this challenging period. The event was a great success and offers hope for the future.

While best known for its mechanical aviator’s chronographs, Breitling has a diverse history of quartz watches for professionals, most notably the multi-function Aerospace and the Emergency with a built-in distress beacon. The latest in Breitling’s range of quartz instrument watches is the sporty and casual Endurance Pro.

The quintet of watches share the same black dial and carbon composite case, but with the dial flange and strap in five bold colours. While the colours are fun, the utility of the watch is taken care of with a chronograph and bidirectional rotating bezel that can be used as a solar compass.

Initial thoughts

As a sports watch, the Endurance Pro gets many elements right. For one, it is notably lightweight despite its large size. The case is made of Breitlight, an proprietary carbon composite – carbon fibres within a polymer – that is three times lighter than titanium, making it unobtrusive on the wrist.

Second, while mechanical movements have more appeal for enthusiasts, a quartz calibre more practical for a sports watch. Compared with a balance wheel, a quartz oscillator is less susceptible to external influences such as shock, magnetism, and orientation. And a quartz sports watch is convenient, it can be picked up and worn right away, with no winding or adjustment necessary.

Even though the Endurance Pro is the most affordable quartz watch made by Breitling (and also its lowest-priced men’s watch), the price tag is still US$3,000, which is expensive for what it is, even with the ultra-light case and high-end quartz movement.

Design and function

The colours and 44 mm size give the watch a masculine, sporty look. Legibility appears good, and the dial flange features a pulsations scale, a useful tool for athletes to measure their heart rate.

Also practical is the rotating bezel engraved with cardinal points, allowing it to be used as a solar compass. It’s a simple matter of aligning the hour hand with the sun, and the midpoint between the hour hand and 12 o’clock indicates south. Turning the bezel to mark south then allows for an easy reading of the other cardinal points.

High-accuracy quartz

While quartz movements are more stable than their mechanical counterparts, a quartz oscillator is susceptible to temperature changes. That’s because the high frequency vibration of the quartz crystal – which functions as the regulator of the movement – varies according to temperature.

A version of the Thermoline movement made by ETA, the SuperQuartz cal. 82 in the Endurance Pro addresses the problem with a sensor that measures ambient temperature, and then adjusts the digital regulating algorithm of the movement to compensate for the temperate-induced variations in frequency.

Key Facts and Price

Breitling Endurance Pro

Ref. X82310A51B1S1 (orange)
Ref. X82310A41B1S1 (yellow)
Ref. X82310D51B1S1 (blue)
Ref. X82310A71B1S1 (white)
Ref. X82310D91B1S1 (red)

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 12.5 mm
Material: Breitlite carbon composite
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Breitling Cal. 82
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and chronograph
Power reserve: 3-4 years

Strap: Rubber or recycled nylon strap

Availability: To be announced
Price: US$3,000

For more, visit breitling.com

A year after the debut of the Erwin LAB01 in bronze, which sold out swiftly, Massena Lab has discreetly launched the followup. Announced only to “friends and family” via email, the Erwin LAB02 retains the familiar “sector” dial, but in a two-tone rose gold and silver finish.

As with the first instalment, the LAB02 is made by Habring² and designed by Massena Lab, a watch-creation studio founded by industry insider William Rohr.

Initial thoughts

Habring² are always excellent value, and the Erwin LAB02 has the added appeal of having been designed by Mr Rohr, a veteran watch collector. Though the design is not novel – it is based on a vintage Patek Philippe – the look is extremely appealing, and it has been executed with a careful attention to detail, as evidenced by the textures of the dial for instance.

While the original edition sold out in an instant, the LAB02 is a low-key launch, with the watches being delivered over a period of months, which makes it easier to land one. So it is accessible not just in price – a bit under US$6,500 – but availability, a useful thing when it comes to small-run limited editions.

Vintage inspiration

The new Erwin models itself on a 1930s Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 that had a similar, dual-colour dial. Illustrated Mr Rohr’s well-honed eye for detail, the dial of the Erwin is not just made up of twin colours, but also two surface finishes. The rose gold-plated chapter ring has a fine, concentric pattern, while the silvered portions are vertically brushed.

The case and movement are identical to the standard Erwin, which means a wearable 38.5 mm case that’s just 10.5 mm high. Inside is the A11s, a hand-wound movement made in-house by Habring² that was developed with the Valjoux 7750 as the foundations, but heavily modified and improved. Notably, majority of the parts are made by Habring² – which is based in Austria – or its suppliers outside of Switzerland.

Key facts and price

Habring2 Erwin LAB02
Ref. E-LAB02

Diameter: 38.5 mm
Height: 10.5 mm
Material: Steel
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: A11s
Features: Hours, minutes, and deadbeat seconds
Winding: Hand-wind
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Calfskin with pin buckle

Limited edition: 50 pieces
Availability: From now, direct from Massena Lab
Price: US$6,495

For more, visit Massenalab.com.

Cartier’s simple, unchanging designs are unique in watchmaking, despite being made up of classical elements like Breguet hands and Roman numerals. In fact, the Cartier can be distilled into a few key elements iterated across different case forms, which together make up a family of distinctive designs.

My favourite Cartier design has long been the Tank Asymetrique – which Cartier just reissued this year – but it is not an especially ergonomic watch due to the case shape and the fact that the crown sits fairly low such that it touches the wrist.

Though known as a Tank today, the Asymetrique is not strictly a Tank, since the vintage originals were a distinct model sometimes known as the Parallélogramme.

A 1927 Tank Cintrée that sold for US$350,000 at Phillips in 2017

The Tank Cintrée, on the other hand, is an eminently wearable watch that is wonderfully elegant on the wrist. It just wears well.

And the Cintrée is also an important design. Though it was not the first Tank design, the Cintrée – the word is French for “curved” – is perhaps the quintessential case shape. And partly for those reasons, it is arguable the most desirable, going by the six-figure results at auction for vintage specimens.

In short, I like the Tank Cintrée, and that was the starting point for the special-order Tank Cintrée “Eminence Grise”.

Familiar yet different

The Eminence Grise was my third special-dial Cartier. The first was also a Tank Cintrée, but with an unconventional dial. Consequently, I wanted something more traditional for the third watch, but also one that was in the brand’s traditional style.

Some of the more obvious ideas were immediately ruled out. Attractive as it is, I didn’t want a salmon or copper dial, since it has been done to the point of being passé. Neither did I want to repeat a silver dial with blue markings.

The Tank Cintrée limited edition from 2018 is on the far right

I experimented with several colours on Photoshop, and Cartier also created a few mockups. The one that stood out was a grey dial.

Credit for the colour goes to John Goldberger, who suggested grey when I discussed a few ideas with him. His eye for detail and depth of interest make it presumptuous for me to call him a friend, but he has extremely generous with his knowledge and I am grateful.

With a colour in mind, the rest of the dial had to be pinned down. The first step was the dial design – the obvious candidates were the dial found on the 2018 model and the earlier version with Arabic numerals. Here the choice was clear, as was the need for Breguet, or pomme, hands.

And then came the colours, both for the dial and the markings. Mr Goldberger’s suggestion was a grey that resembled a slightly faded black dial, and at the same time I wanted something that would only reveal its colour up close.

Two of the initial renderings for the design

The final drawing

So the choice was a dark grey with a radially-brushed surface – a surprisingly unusual finish for the Tank Cintrée – instead of the usual fine graining or less common guilloche. The brushed finish allows the dial to catch the light, leaving the colour to range from a medium grey to near black.

Dial blanks with varying grey finishes created and sent over; one was just right. With that decided, the next task was the equally important numerals and markings. They had to be a gentle off-white, rather than a stark, bright white.

Another detail that needed to be determined was the stone on the crown. Though several options were available, I decided to go for a ruby cabochon, the standard fixture for platinum-case watches.

Then it was meant to be a few months for the finished watch, but the pandemic lengthened the wait. Eventually, about 15 months after the project was first mooted, the Tank Cintrée “Eminence Grise” arrived – and it was exactly what I had in mind.

Well, almost exactly, as the minute track is actually white and not in the same ivory colour as the numerals, but the two actually complement each other. That illustrates an intrinsic part of the process when it comes to custom watches – minor divergence from the vision is inevitable.

It was delivered with a standard grey strap that was acceptable, but I had always envisioned a dark olive colour for the strap, which meant a custom-made strap. With the strap done, the project was complete.

Commande Spéciale

Although Cartier doesn’t make one-off watches as a matter of policy – such watches are simply labelled commande spéciale, or “special order” – the Eminence Grise is a unique piece, for now. It’s the only Tank Cintrée with a grey dial as far as I know. But a few friends like the idea as well, so a handful more will be produced.

Even for someone well versed with the brand, the Eminence Grise is an unusual watch. At a distance the watch looks familiar yet very different. Cartier has made other Tank watches with grey dials, though the greys were all in a lighter shade, and usually paired with a guilloche surface. I am pleased with how it turned out.

With its iconic complication being the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges – albeit one that is somewhat forgotten today – Girard-Perregaux has created a variety of simpler watches centred on the same concept of prominent movement bridges. The newly-launched Free Bridge is the latest to join the line up, and while it is superficially similar, it boasts an exotic silicon balance wheel (that was probably created with help from its sister company).

Initial thoughts

The Free Bridge has a modern, technical-looking aesthetic that is currently popular, but it is more than a faddish watch. That’s because it’s equipped with an intricate, extra-large balance wheel made of silicon, one that is far more advanced than everything else at this price point – with the exception of the Ulysse Nardin Freak X.

Though not identical, the balance wheel is similar enough to the one in the Freak X that it becomes obvious the Free Bridge balance is derived from that in the Freak X, which is unsurprising since both watch brands are owned by luxury group Kering.

The balance wheel makes the movement special from a technical perspective, and also makes the US$17,000 price tag easier to swallow. That said, the Free Bridge seems to sit in no man’s land – it is neither entirely classical nor modern, in contrast to the Freak X which is an out and out contemporary watch. As a result, the Free Bridge isn’t particularly outstanding visually, unlike the Freak X.

Upgraded with a new balance

The Free Bridge is a large watch, with the case measuring 44 mm by 12.2 mm. A good part of the height is the domed “box” sapphire crystal, which provides a good view of the balance wheel from various angles.

The movement is the GP01800-1170, which is essentially the brand’s workhorse automatic movement reengineered to accommodate the extra-large balance wheel on the front. Not only is the balance wheel silicon, but also the escape wheel and pallet lever, features that are perhaps also borrowed from Ulysse Nardin.

Infinity Edition

The Free Bridge is also available as an Infinity Edition, the overarching theme for Girard-Perregaux’s new launches this year. The 88-piece Infinity Edition is identical mechanically, but dressed up with pink gold elements that contrast against the black-coated case.

And like the other Infinity Editions, this is decorated with polished onyx in the form of two inlaid panels of the mineral stone on each side of the barrel.

The onyx inlays are each secured by two screws

The Infinity Edition also has the bonus of a pink gold rotor

Key facts and price

Girard-Perregaux Free Bridge
Ref. 82000-11-631-FA6A
Ref. 82000-11-632-FA6A (Infinity Edition)

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 12.2 mm
Material: Steel
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement:GP01800-1170
Features: Hours, and minutes,
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 54 hours

Strap: Alligator

Limited edition: Infinity Edition limited to 88 pieces
Availability: Starting October 2020
Price
16,250 Swiss francs (standard model)
19,410 Swiss francs (Infinity Edition)

For more, visit girard-perregaux.com.

Endowed with an unmistakable aesthetic, the Breguet Tradition is based on the souscription calibre made by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1796. Arguably the pioneer with the open-dial design that exposes the movement, the Tradition’s construction allows for creativity even with basic complications, like a retrograde seconds for instance.

The new Tradition Quantième Retrograde 7597 continues with the overarching theme of the line. Based on the Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097, the 7597 does away with the seconds display and instead installed an oversized retrograde date complication.

Initial thoughts

I find the Tradition aesthetic unique and charming, thanks to the characteristic, exposed movement construction that can seem haphazardly arranged at times. Despite the angular and geometric shapes of the bridges, most of them are trapezoidal in shape with few parallel edges, bestowing a more organic appearance to the highly mechanical appearance.

While a conventional date window is mundane, the retrograde date elevates the complication both visually and mechanically. Retrograde displays are often encountered in Breguet watches – something that started with A.-L. Breguet himself – and are typically done well, both stylistically and technically.

The Tradition 7597 is, in short, an attractively designed watch that sticks to Breguet’s tradition strengths in design and mechanics, while offering a useful complication executed in an elegant manner.

Tradition restyled

The 7597 retains the familiar Tradition look, with off-centred, engine-turned dial at 12 o’clock, powered by the mainspring at the centre of the watch. The going train for timekeeping occupies the lower half of the watch, and is fully exposed thanks to the minimal bridges.

Prominent at four o’clock, the balance wheel is a fusion of traditional and modern technology – combining both a silicon hairspring and a Breguet overcoil. Right now, Breguet is the only watchmaker offering watches equipped with such a hairspring.

Of course, the highlight of the 7597 is the retrograde date that spans the perimeter of the movement’s lower half. The date jumps one a step per day till it reaches the 31st day of the month, and then performs a full, clockwise jump back to “1”.

The scale for the date is elaborately constructed with thick, pad-printed numerals for the odd-numbered days, which are separated by applied, polished spheres as an added flourish. And the date hand is blued steel and finished with a matte, frosted surface, and bent upwards to clear the movement bridges underneath.

Since the 7597 makes use of the empty space under the off-centre time display for the date, the case retains the 40mm diameter of the 7097 it is derived from.

The case construction is classically Breguet with coin edge fluting on the case band and narrow lugs. The addition of a screw-in pusher at 10 o’clock allows for quick corrections of the date.

The reverse

With majority of the movement on the front, there is little to reveal in terms of mechanics on the back. Thus, the rear is dominated by a large, white gold rotor. Shaped like a pendulum, the rotor is modelled on the swinging weight found in 19th century pocket watches with hammer winding, a primitive form of the self-winding mechanism.

The rotor sits on what is otherwise a sparse movement plate, with the key feature being a large, geometrically complex bridge next to the crown, which holds the wheels for winding and time-setting.

Key Facts and Price

Breguet Tradition Quantième Retrograde 7597
Ref. 7597BB/G1/9WU (white gold)
Ref. 7597BR/G1/9WU (rose gold)

Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 12.1 mm
Material: White gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 505Q
Functions: Hours, minutes, and retrograde dates
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Availability: Already at boutiques and retailers
Price:
37,700 Swiss francs; or 55,500 Singapore dollars (white gold)
36,900 Swiss francs; 54,300 Singapore dollars (rose gold)

For more information, visit Breguet.com.

Typically offered with a familiar guilloche dial, Girard-Perregaux’s luxury-sports watch has been facelifted with a polished, mineral stone dial. Equipped with glossy, black onyx dial featuring pink-gold hour markers, the Laureato Infinity Edition is a limited edition in two case sizes for men and women respectively.

Initial thoughts

The luxury-sports watch category is populated by many similar watches, driven by the popularity of the Gerald Genta-designed segment leaders, which are arguably the definitive sports watches with integrated bracelets and blue dials.

Few watches manage to differentiate themselves; even the standard Laureato blends in. The Laureato Infinity Edition manages to be different without trying too hard, while also being priced reasonably.

The combination isn’t imaginative but it works well. The dial is a glossy black, matched with contrasting hour markers in pink gold, and markings in powdered-silver print – a combination that is clean, classic, but also different from its peers. The only odd element of the design are the rhodium-plated hands, which are probably highly legible, but don’t match the colour of the hour markers.

Arguably the only weakness are the in-house movements. Both are robust, reliable calibres that have been around for decades, but they lack many of the upgrades found in newer movements, most notably a longer power reserve.

The standard Laureato is already a well priced watch. The Infinity Edition sticks to that formula and costs only 660 francs more than the standard model, making it a no-brainer as an upgrade given the looks and material.

Solid fit and finish

Dial aside, both versions of the Laureato Infinity Edition are identical to the standard model. Slim and elegant in profile, the cases are steel with a brushed finish that’s accented with polished surfaces on the bevelled edges, links and bezel.

The smaller, 38 mm version is available only with a diamond-set bezel, making it a largish, sporty ladies’ watch.

The Laureato Infinity Edition 38 mm

Both versions are powered by in-house movements. The 42 mm model features the GP01800-1404 that has a 54-hour power reserve, while the smaller version contains the GP03300-1409 with a shorter, 46-hour power reserve.

The GP01800-1404 in the 42 mm model

The launch of the Laureato Infinity Edition also marks the start of an “exclusive distribution agreement” with Wempe in Germany. The largest watch retailer in the country, Wempe will now be the store carrying Girard-Perregaux in Germany.

As a result, the new Laureato will be available only at Wempe stores in Germany, New York, and London for two months – September and October 2020 – and subsequently at all retailers worldwide.

Key facts and price

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Infinity Edition
Ref. 81010-11-635-11A (42 mm)

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 10.7 mm
Material: Steel
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: GP01800-1404
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 54 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet

Limited edition: 188 pieces
Availability: Only at Wempe stores in September and October 2020, at authorised retailers worldwide after
Price: 12,260 Swiss francs

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Infinity Edition
Ref. 81005D11A631-11A (38 mm)

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 9.8 mm
Material: Steel
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: GP0330-1409
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 46 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet

Limited edition: 88 pieces
Availability: Only at Wempe stores in September and October 2020, at authorised retailers worldwide after
Price: 15,600 Swiss francs

For more, visit girard-perregaux.com.

Well regarded for offering strong value, the Seiko Presage has seen a proliferation of variations in dial styles, ranging from stamped patterns to high-end materials like fired enamel and porcelain. The diversity of dials continues with the Presage Sharp Edged Series.

The new quartet of watches all feature a dial decorated with a repeating motif inspired by a traditional Japanese leaf pattern. But as the model name suggests, the new watches also boast a new case design that, with the use of edges and angles, creates the play between light and shadow – an attempt, in other words, to give the Presage a more upscale case finish.

Initial thoughts

The new Presage is slightly pricier than earlier models, but boasts several smart details that set it apart. Both the case and dial have been refined as compared to previous generations.

The case has slightly more elaborate finishing, while the dial is decorated with a stamped pattern that catches the light nicely. And that continues right down to details like the the applied markers and date window frame.

All of that makes it a value buy at US$1,000, though the higher price tag means it is not as much of a screaming deal as its predecessors.

Refined case lines

At first glance, the angular case with its wide lugs is reminiscent of the 44GS case, perhaps is the most recognisable Grand Seiko case design. However, the Presage Sharp Edged is not merely Grand Seiko “lite”. With a contrasting brushed top on the lugs, the watch looks sportier and more casual than a Grand Seiko. The contrast between the brushed and polished surfaces are accentuated by the lines of the case.

It is worth mentioning that the bracelet echoes the case design – and is also reminiscent of the Grand Seiko bracelet – not just in form but also in finishing, with alternating finishing on the bracelets links.

Quintessentially Japanese

Case aside, the dial has received an upgrade. Seiko frequently incorporates themes from Japanese culture in its watches, usually through reinterpreting landscapes or traditional themes to create dial patterns.

The latest such design is a geometric motif based on the the hemp-leaf pattern known as Asanoha. Over a thousand years old, Asanoha is symbolises prosperity and health, and is a recurring theme on fabrics and furniture. Notably, the dial motif is not simply printed but stamped to create three-dimensionality, which results in dynamic reflective effect.

Another example of the attention to detail in the new design are the hands, which are new. Wide and angular but with an elegant, pointed tip, the hands look at home with the sporty-yet-elegant case style.

While the highlight of the new Presage is the case style and dial pattern, Seiko has also taken care of other less obvious details, including the case size.

At 39.3 mm wide and 11.1 mm thick, Seiko has reduced the case dimensions compared to earlier Presage watches, which were usually slightly above 40 mm wide. Though trimmed by a tiny margin, the reduced case size should increase the wearability, as the lug to lug span has also narrowed to 47.2 mm – long for a smallish case but still manageable for most wrists.

The brown dial is paired with a rose gold-plated case and leather strap, while the other models feature a steel case and bracelet treated with Seiko’s proprietary “super-hard” coating

Workhorse function

With a running time of 70 hours, the 6R35 movement inside is one that complies with modern expectations for power reserve. And with a water resistance of 100 m, the new Presage can be worn easily on most occasions – a trait that is also helped by the versatile design.

The 6R35

Key facts and price

Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series
Ref. SPB167 (blue dial)
Ref. SPB165 (white dial)
Ref. SPB169 (green dial)
Ref. SPB170 (brown dial)

Diameter: 39.3 mm
Height: 11.1  mm
Material: Stainless steel with hard coating or rose-gold plating
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: 6R35
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Stainless steel bracelet or cordovan strap

Availability: To be announced
Price: US$1,000; or €990

For more, visit seikowatches.com

Longines’ momentum with retro timepieces continues with the new Heritage Military Marine Nationale. The new remake is clean and legible, just like its inspiration, which was made for the French Navy in 1947. The vintage original, the ref. 5774, was an instrument for shallow diving – albeit one without the familiar rotating bezel of a diver’s watch that wouldn’t be invented until the 1950s. Consequently, it was a clean and legible watch, and so does the vintage reissue.

Initial thoughts

The Marine Nationale recreates the feel of the original quite well, despite being substantially larger. That’s accomplished by retaining the proportions of the original, as well as smaller but important details, like the shape of the seconds hand and the vintage logo on the dial. And thankfully there is no date to ruin the symmetrical dial.

Like most of Longines’ other remakes, the appeal of the Marine Nationale lies in its affordable price of US$2,000, which is strong value especially given the upgraded ETA movement within.

The only weakness of the Marine Nationale – especially given it is a remake of a dive watch – is the minimal water resistance of just 30 m.

Subtle reworking

At 38.5 mm wide, the Marine Nationale is relatively small by modern standards, even though it has been significantly enlarged from its original’s 33 mm diameter. That said, the size of the remake is good, especially coupled with the relatively thick case, which preserves the proportions of the original. As is the case with many vintage watches that are smallish yet thick, the aspect ratio of the case has a sturdy feel that evokes a bit of romantic nostalgia.

The height of the case can be attributed to the “box type” sapphire and wide, double-stepped bezel, which also leaves the dial looking smaller. The vintage proportions are well done and makes the watch visually interesting, since it is distinct from most modern designs.

Similarly, the dial stays close to the original, a faithfulness that elevates its charm. The tone is a warm ivory colour, matched with an unusual dark brown Super-Luminova on the numerals and hands that mimics the look of heavily-aged radium on vintage watches. Beyond the faux patina, the dial is also finished with random, grained finish, which is meant to recreate the aged surface of the vintage original – and no doubt an extra that is polarising.

Modern movement

Powering the watch is the automatic L888.5, which is an upgraded ETA 2982 with a power reserve of 64 hours, compared to the 42 hours of the standard model.

The movement runs at a slightly lower beat rate, as a result of the silicon hairspring. The material makes the hairspring resilient to creep, magnetism, and temperature changes.

Key Facts and Price

Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale
Ref. L2.833.4.93.2

Case diameter: 38.5 mm
Height: Not available
Material: Stainless steel
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: L888.5 (ETA A31.L11)
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds,
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 64 hours

Strap: Cognac leather strap

Availability: At Longines boutiques and retailers
Price: US$2,000, or 3,020 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Longines.com

Launched earlier this year after much teasing, the Streamliner chronograph was the first sports watch – with an integrated bracelet – from H. Moser & Cie. The Streamliner design accomplished an unusual feature: bringing to the table a unique case and bracelet style that manages to look at home with other luxury-sports watches, while being distinctive enough to avoid being derivative.

With Moser chief executive Edouard Meylan having revealed additional Streamliner models were in the pipeline, the latest is not a surprise. The Steamliner Centre Second retains the same case and bracelet style of the chronograph, but as a more affordable, time-only watch.

Initial thoughts

Slightly smaller than the chronograph, the time-only Streamliner is 40 mm wide and 11.8 mm high, so it is fairly classical in its proportions. That also means it probably wears slightly better than the chronograph, which was already quite compact despite its measurements. And the striking green fume dial doubtlessly gives the Streamliner Centre Second a good deal of wrist presence.

Priced at a little under US$22,000, the new watch is markedly more affordable, costing half as much as the chronograph. That said, the Streamliner Centre Second is pricey compared to Moser’s other steel watches. While the chronograph was well priced and compelling, mainly because it is powered by the ingenious Agenhor movement, the time-only Streamliner isn’t quite as strong a value proposition.

Streamliner style

Having the same design as the Streamliner Chronograph means the new time-only model possesses the same strengths, but so does the weakness.

The case architecture is thoughtful and attractive; squarish but with fluid, curved edges. Notably, the case flank resembles a sandwich construction with raised top and bottom edges, yet it is actually one piece.

And it has the same bracelet, which is a crucial element of the design. Truly integrated both visually and mechanically, the bracelet flows into the case, which elevates the sporty feel of the watch.

At the same time, the new watch has the same hands, which have rounded tips that lack poise and don’t quite suit the overall style.

Characteristic fumè

The dial is a fumè affair – graduated and smoked – that is now quintessential Moser. More unconventional is the colour, which stands out from the faddish blue dials found in almost all luxury-sports watch. The dial design also continues the minimalist look established by the chronograph, with applied hour indices and a “racing” style minute track.

Visible through the back is the HMC 200 with a three-day power reserve. Dressed up with an 18k gold rotor, the calibre is a relatively new workhorse movement introduced in 2017 in the Endeavour and Pioneer Centre Seconds. While less elaborate than the brand’s higher-end movements, the HMC 200 incorporates several signature features like the double striping for the bridges and moustache-shaped balance bridge.

Key Facts and Price

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Second
Ref. 6200-1200

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.8 mm
Material: Steel
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: HMC 200
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Integrated steel bracelet with folding clasp

Availability: Starting September at retailers
Price: US$21,900; or S$33,000

For more, visit h-moser.com.