Following last year’s Pebble wristwatch, the latest instalment of the Les Rééditions de Cartier series of historical remakes is Tank Cintrée Platinum. Its launch marks the 100th anniversary of the first Tank Cintrée in platinum that debuted two years after the Tank Cintrée, which was in yellow gold.
Notably, the new platinum edition is slimmer than its predecessor in yellow gold launched, standing just 6.03 mm high thanks to a reworked case and ultra-thin Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) calibre inside.
The recent popularity of Cartier’s classical designs have made reissues like this inevitable. Cartier does them on an annual basis, more or less, which spaces them well enough that each edition remains interesting, even if it is predictable. And in some ways Cartier’s limited editions are more appealing than its special orders, because the limited editions are a known quantity in a fixed form.
Like Cartier’s past reissues, the new Tank Cintrée sticks closely to the original design, so much so it is almost indistinguishable from a distance, except for its new-watch sheen. Given the strength of the original design, this is a good thing.
Interestingly, this is slimmer than the 2021 reissue in yellow gold. While the thinness is appealing, particularly for a formal-dress watch like this, one wonders if the reduction in thickness was to reduce the weight of precious metal.
Besides allowing for a thinner case, the ultra-thin JLC movement is a historical reference that watch enthusiasts will appreciate since the vintage Tank Cintrée was powered by movements made by LeCoultre.
The platinum Tank Cintrée costs CHF34,700, about a quarter more than its yellow gold predecessor. Relative to the wider landscape of watch prices, it is fair considering the case material, and even more so in relation to last year’s Pebble that was surprisingly expensive.
Thinner and platinum
The platinum edition is essentially an evolution of the 2021 model in yellow gold. It shares the same dimensions of 43.6 mm by 23 mm as well as the same movement, but a reworked construction brings its thickness down from 6.4 mm to 6.03 mm. And like most platinum Cartiers, it has a ruby cabochon in the crown.
The dial is a replica of the vintage original, complete with railway minute track and Roman numerals with serifs. It is executed in an eggshell hue that evokes an aged dial finish.
Inside is the cal. 9780 MC, a manual-wind movement that is actually the JLC cal. 849. Widely used in JLC’s ultra-thin watches for some three decades, the movement is a robust performer, albeit one with a relatively short power reserve of 36 hours, which is forgivable considering its age and size.
Key facts and price
Cartier Les Rééditions de Cartier Tank Cintrée
Diameter: 46.3 mm by 23 mm
Height: 6.03 mm
Water resistance: Not available
Movement: Cal. 9780 MC (JLC cal. 849)
Functions: Hours and minutes
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 36 hours
Strap: Leather strap with a pin buckle
Limited edition: 150 pieces
Availability: Only at Cartier boutiques, with deliveries starting September 2023
Price: CHF34,700; or 55,000 Singapore dollars
For more information, visit Cartier.com.
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