Debuted just two years ago, the Streamliner was Moser’s first try at an integrated-bracelet sports watch and it was a success. With its distinctive case and bracelet, the Streamliner is very much a watch that caters to the tastes of today, which has unsurprisingly made it the brand’s bestseller.

The latest in the line up, however, is a change in tone. With a dial that’s minimalist as usual, the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack is unabashedly extravagant in 18k red gold from end to end, putting it in stark contrast with the uniformly steel Streamliners that came before.

Initial thoughts

The best part of the latest Streamliner is its design, which manages to blend several elements in a coherent manner: luxury, mechanical complexity, and of course simplicity. With this new launch, the Streamliner is finally available in gold.

While all past models were in steel, the Streamliner Tourbillon is surprisingly attractive despite being so different. In fact, the case and bracelet are arguably made even more compelling in precious metal, since the material lends the watch both heft and elegance, while the glow of the rosy metal brings out the surface finish.

In contrast to the extravagant case and bracelet, the dial is spare and contrasts well against the gold case. Coated in Vantablack, an ultra-black substance, the dial is sparsely furnished with plain hour markers and no minute track, making it the simplest amongst the Streamliner collection. That said, the rounded hands and indices are identical to those on the other Streamliner models and are arguably too soft for this high-contrast design.

But the dial is not empty thanks to the flying tourbillon at six. While some might prefer a hidden tourbillon, I find the exposed regulator does the job of showing off just enough to keep the dial interesting while preserving the overall minimalist theme.

At US$119,900, the Streamliner Vantablack Tourbillon is priced in line with tourbillon-equipped sports watches from comparable brands, but less than the offerings from establishment marques like Audemars Piguet. An all-gold sports watch can never be a value proposition, but this is reasonable enough considering the material, movement, and styling.

Black and gold

The Streamliner tourbillon naturally inherits the proportions of its predecessors, though on a smaller scale. Its case tourbillon is compact at just 40 mm wide, as opposed to 42.3 mm for the perpetual calendar model. The height is a thick 12.1 mm, however, which means it is not as sleek as one might hope.

The gold details continue onto the dial with hands and markers. Notably, the dial is a “sandwich” construction, with the hour markers being cutouts on the dial that reveal the batons below – this is more of a technical necessity than stylistic consideration that stems from the extreme fragility of the Vantablack coating. As a result of the construction, the hour markers can disappear from view depending on the light as well as angle.

Inside the watch is the in-house HMC 804, an automatic movement that has a three-day running time. But the highlight of the movement are the double hairsprings that beats in sync but in opposing directions. Together they result in a more concentric motion of the balance wheel, which enhances timekeeping stability.

Key Facts and Price

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack
Ref. 6804-0400

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 12.1 mm
Material: 18k red gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: HMC 804
Functions: Hours, minutes, and tourbillon
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 3 days

Strap: 18k red gold bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: At authorised retailers
Price: US$119,900

For more, visit H-moser.com.