Six Outstanding Affordable Watches of 2015

Well made and honestly priced timepieces are uncommon but out there. Some of them even have fine in-house movements. This is our pick of the best from the class of 2015.

While we can wish for fantastically expensive watches, such watches remain fantasies for most of us. On the other hand, several notable affordable, but outstanding, timepieces were unveiled in 2015. A couple of things stand out on this list. More than half the watches are powered by in-house movements, proving that well made proprietary movements need not be expensive. And two of the six come from brands that are better known as leather goods makers, demonstrating the considerable and impressive progress such brands have made in creating good timepieces. Here are six of the best, all priced under US$10,000.

Longines Column-Wheel Single Push-Piece Chronograph – US$3150 or S$4930

Paradoxically, the most complicated watch in this list is also the lowest priced, which shows just how much value Longines offers. This is the latest version of the Longines mono-pusher chronograph, and by far the most attractive.

Three versions are available, but the best looking is the ref. L2.800.4.26.2 that has a white lacquer sector dial that is unusual but also reassuringly vintage-y.

This is equipped with the L788.2 movement, a self-winding chronograph movement that’s based on the robust Valjoux 7750, but heavily upgraded. The most obvious improvements are the single button integrated into the crown to start, stop and reset the chronograph, eliminating the usual two-button layout. And the movement has a column wheel as the on-off switch for the chronograph mechanism, a more refined solution than the cam that is typically used.

Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone – US$7700 or S$10,300

This is essentially a radically cheaper version of the limited edition, US$67,500 Escale Worldtime. While its pricier sibling has a white gold case and hand-painted dial, the Escale Time Zone is stainless steel with a printed dial, making it a tenth of the price, explaining the months-long wait list at Louis Vuitton stores.

The look, however, is very similar, with the distinctive multi-coloured dial inspired by nautical pennants showing all 24 time zones in the world. A pair of hands in the centre indicates local time, while the cities disc and 24-hour ring together show the time in all other time zones.

Nomos Neomatik 1st Edition – starting at US$3360

Nomos watches are easy to like, being well made, appealingly simple, boosted by a brand identity that’s original and sometimes quirky. The Neomatik is a line of six watches powered by the DUW 3001, the latest in-house automatic movement from Nomos. All of the watches are modestly sized and slim – the movement inside is just 3.2 mm high.

The 1st Edition models are a limited run available with a silver or champagne dial, available only till spring 2016. After that the Neomatik will continue, but with different dial options.

Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre – US$6450 or S$9800

Though famous because of the James Bond association, the Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre is intrinsically appealing. Old school on the outside, it has a satisfying vintage look (faux aged Super-Luminova, lollipop seconds hand and sandwich dial), the Seamaster 300 Spectre is high-tech on the inside.

It’s equipped with Master Co-Axial calibre 8400 from Omega’s latest generation of movements. And it doesn’t hurt that the watch helped James Bond triumph in Spectre. The only downside is that it’s a limited edition of 7007 pieces, which is, well, a lot.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 – US$5700

Rolex watches have always been well made, but the old Oyster Perpetual has been somewhat old fashioned, with a small, 36 mm case and boring dial options. The Oyster Perpetual 39 changes that by growing the case to 39 mm while adding a range of brightly coloured dials.

Despite the improvements, the look remains familiar, with a rounded bezel and Oyster bracelet. But the 39 mm case helpfully makes it similar to Rolex sports watches in size; the latest Yacht-Master Everose for instance is 40 mm in diameter. Each of the dial options also features coloured accents, like blue minute markings on the dark grey dial. Whereas an entry-level Rolex in the past carried with it the nagging feeling of compromise, the Oyster Perpetual 39 is strong contender (and it now comes with a five year warranty).

Slim d’Hermes – US$7650 or S$10,900

While the most affordable of 2015 is arguably the Hermes-lite Apple Watch, the best from the Parisian saddle maker is the Slim d’Hermès. Endowed with the inimitable Hermes house style, the Slim d’Hermès has a custom designed font by French graphic designer Phillipe Apeloig as well as delightful details like hands with polished and frosted halves, or the double-sunk dial. Combined with the wire-style lugs, the Slim d’Hermès is simple yet distinctive.

But the Slim d’Hermès is not just about looks, it’s powered by the H1950 automatic movement. That’s actually the VMF5300 made by Vaucher, the movement specialist in which Hermes holds a quarter share. And it’s the same calibre found in pricier Richard Mille and Parmigiani timepieces. A pricier Slim d’Hermes perpetual calendar is also available, but the basic automatic is the best value proposition.

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Up Close with the Vacheron Constantin Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph

In a year full of new chronograph launches, the flagship chronograph from Vacheron Constantin is the Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph, featuring a newly developed in-house movement. Here's a detailed look at it, complete with original photos and price.

For its 260th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin introduced a slew of new chronographs this year, with the most beautiful arguably the Cornes de Vache 1955. But the Harmony chronographs are more significant, being equipped with the brand’s first in-house chronograph movements. The Harmony line-up starts with the entry-level Harmony calibre 3300, continuing with the much pricier, but more spectacular Harmony Ultra-Thin Grande Complication Chronograph. And at the very top sits the Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph.

The features of the Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph are obvious, the calibre 3200 inside has both a chronograph and tourbillon. In fact, the movement is what the calibre inside the basic Harmony Chronograph should be.

Whereas in the basic Harmony chronograph the balance cock is unattractively large so as to occupy vacant space, here that space is rightly filled by the tourbillon bridge. Like the other 260th anniversary editions, the tourbillon bridge on the back is gilded and hand-engraved with a floral motif.

Typical of traditionally constructed chronographs that feature a horizontal clutch, the calibre 3300 is filled with levers and gears, with much to admire. A relief Maltese cross tops the column wheel, now a signature feature in all Vacheron Constantin chronographs. But unlike many other similar chronograph movements, the calibre 3300 is quite large, with the chronograph components relatively spaced out. This means it lacks the elegant and compelling density of its competitors; the Harmony split-seconds chronograph being a good example.

Essentially the same tourbillon found in other Vacheron Constantin watches (like the skeleton tourbillons), and something the brand excels at, the tourbillon regulator is lovely to behold. The Maltese cross-shaped carriage is black polished, while the tourbillon bridge is finished even more elaborately, being both rounded as well as black polished.

The platinum case is a large 42 mm in diameter, with the cushion shaped and dial design modelled on a 1920s Vacheron Constantin chronograph. It has a handsome, vintage-inspired look, though the power reserve indicator and exposed tourbillon are distinctly modern.

Price and availability 

The Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph is a limited edition of 26 pieces, priced at US$314,600 or S$558,500. Despite the limited numbers, one or two might still be available.

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Introducing the Million Dollar Richard Mille RM 07-02 Pink Lady Sapphire

With a case made entirely of pink sapphire, the RM 07-02 Pink Lady Sapphire is one of the most exotic ladies' watches from Richard Mille to date. Slated to make its official debut at SIHH 2016, here's a preview with specs and pricing.

An extravagant variation on the RM007, Richard Mille‘s bestselling ladies wristwatch, the RM 07-02 Pink Lady Sapphire is clad in clear pink sapphire, a colour modelled on the Pink Lady cocktail. Inside is a movement with the base plate and bridges in 18k pink gold, a first for Richard Mille.

Sapphire is a hard, scratch-resistant material (though liable to chipping and cracking with a sharp impact). The case of the RM 07-02 Pink Lady Sapphire is machined from synthetic sapphire grown from a crystal of aluminium oxide. It is made up of three pieces, front and back plates with the case band in the middle.

Inside is the calibre CRMA5, a partially skeletonised, automatic movement. Though mechanically identical to the movements found in simpler RM007 models, this has solid red gold bridges and plates. And the rotor as well as base plate are set with round diamonds for extra bling. Like all other self-winding Richard Mille watches, the RM 07-02 has a variable inertia movement with a winding speed that can be adjusted to suit the wearer’s physical activity.

The pink sapphire case measures 32.90 mm wide and 46.75 mm long, while standing 14.35 mm at its thickest point.  The RM 07-02 Pink Lady Sapphire is priced at US$980,000.

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Introducing the Keaton Myrick ‘1 in 30’ Chronometer

Made in the USA.

Since making his debut in 2013, American watchmaker Keaton Myrick has refined his wristwatch, now known as the 1 in 30, a reference to the number that will be made. The calibre 29.30 inside has evolved in a striking fashion, now featuring more elaborate finishing while retaining the details that made it stand out at its introduction.

Myrick makes most of the movement components himself, though the underpinnings of the calibre 29.30 are based on the Unitas 6497. Consequently, most of the decorative elements of the movement can be customised. The watch pictured, for example, has blued steel screws and a balance bridge in red gold, instead of the conventional steel.

The latest version of the movement has significantly more fine finishing, demonstrating how Myrick has advanced his craft. That evolution is seen in the teeth of the barrel ratchet and winding wheels, which are now rounded and polished.

A custom 1 in 30 with a red gold balance bridge
The polished teeth on the barrel ratchet wheel at left

The calibre 29.30 is heavily inspired by classical watchmaking. The full bridge for the balance wheel, for example, is modelled on those found in observatory tourbillon pocket watches. And the elaborate winding click for the barrel is similar to those used in grand sonnerie clockwatches.

Other elements of the movement are inspired by what is now known regarded as Saxon watchmaking, the sort exemplified by A. Lange & Söhne, or independent watchmakers like Lang & Heyne and Moritz Grossmann. The German silver three-quarter plate is frosted, while the centre wheel jewel is secured by a steel chiton.

A similar evolution of style and technique is visible on the dial that is now more elegantly decorative. Made of German silver, the dial has a frosted finish, while all the hour numerals and hands are blued steel, while the plates for the brand are in red gold.

The case remains a stock stainless steel case that is relatively simple, however, Myrick is working on a proprietary watchcase that should be completed some time in 2016.

Various elements of the 1 in 30 can be customised, from the materials used for the movement components, finishing techniques, as well as the specifics of the dial. The 1 in 30 wristwatch starts at US$21,500 in a stainless steel case. It is available direct from Keaton Myrick.


 

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Year In Review 2015: Our 10 Top Stories Of The Year

As the year comes to a close, we revisit our top stories, which literally offer something for everyone, from a detailed look at the Apple Watch, to the $50,000 Seiko Credor Eichi. Here’s the recap of the 10 stories for 2015.

The most read stories reflect the interests of our audience, starting with the Tudor North Flag Review at number ten, and culminating with our scoop revealing four brand new Simplicity wristwatches recently delivered by Philippe Dufour. That diversity is a credit to you, dear reader.

10. A Detailed Look At The Tudor North Flag, Equipped With Its First In-House Movement Tudor had a good year in 2015: it introduced its first in-house movement in the North Flag as well as Pelagos, and also saw a record set for the most expensive Tudor ever sold. But the story that got the most attention was our detailed review of the Tudor North Flag.

The MT5621 inside the North Flag

9. Explaining How To Blue Steel Screws The Traditional Way – With A Flame And Lots Of Patience Henrik Korpela, chief instructor at Swiss watchmaking academy KHWCC, explained the steps involved in blueing a screw the traditional manner, a tedious process that requires plenty of skill and care.

8. Hands-On With The TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11 Chronograph, An Affordable Remake Of The 1133B “Steve McQueen” The new TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11 not only looks better, being more similar to the original ref. 1133B “Steve McQueen”, but is also significantly cheaper – being some 30 percent less – than the Monaco remake it replaces. No surprise it is a hit.

7. Explaining The Fine Art Of Black Polishing AKA Spéculaire The second technical article by KHWCC’s Henrik Korpela, this details the process of black polishing steel components of a movement, including bridges, screws and plates. Like many of the other traditional techniques in watchmaking, it is painstaking but capable of producing magnificent decoration. 

6. Review: 36 Hours with the SevenFriday V-Series V1/01 and V2/01 Combining a new look as well as a novel time display, the V-Series is the latest from remarkably successful independent brand SevenFriday. It has all the ingredients that made the earlier P-Series a success, namely a distinctive design and affordable price tag.

5. A Detailed Look At The Seiko Credor Eichi II – The Pinnacle Of Japanese Watchmaking This watch is tangible proof that Seiko can create a movement finished to the same standard as the very best in Switzerland. Just compare it to the work of Dufour and Voutilainen.

4. Up Close With The Patek Philippe 5170G, Black Dial With Breguet Numerals A watch that’s heavily inspired by vintage Patek Philippe chronographs that collectors desire, the latest variant of the ref. 5170 doesn’t try to do too much, but sticks to a tried and test formula.

3. A Watch Nerd’s Review of the Apple Watch Our review examined the fit, finish and build quality of the Apple Watch, in other words, the same criteria applied to mechanical watches. And in this respect, the Apple Watch passed with flying colours. The Apple Watch is without a doubt the smartwatch with the best exterior quality (and more recently, the best leather straps).

2. Hands-On With The Seiko Marinemaster 1000 m Hi-Beat 36,000 Limited Edition The Marinemaster 1000 m Hi-Beat 36,000 is Seiko‘s top of the line dive watch, the first to be equipped with a self-winding, high frequency movement. Essentially the same calibre inside the high frequency Grand Seiko watches, the movement is the first 36,000 bph calibre put inside a Seiko dive watch in over 50 years.

1. Revealing The Four New Philippe Dufour Simplicity Special Editions Just Delivered While it was widely believed Philippe Dufour only made 200 Simplicity wristwatches, with the last completed in 2013, he actually made four more. These were delivered in late 2014 to a group of collectors in China, one of whom had commissioned a Philippe Dufour grande et petit sonnerie wristwatch. Along with that SFr900,000 grand complication came the right to purchase these four Simplicities. Many collectors were surprised at this quartet, but the world surely is a better place with four more gorgeous watches.

Thank you for reading.

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Hands-On with the Tiffany & Co. East West in Tiffany Blue (with Price)

For those who want it overtly Tiffany, the New York jeweller recently introduced its East West wristwatch in the signature robin egg blue.

Inspired by 1920s wristwatches, the simple but striking East West is a driver’s watch, with a 90 degree rotation of the dial. The dial colour options now includes Tiffany Blue, the trademarked shade that’s synonymous with Tiffany & Co. Far from subtle, the new East West is nonetheless quite compelling on the wrist.

The Tiffany Blue East West joins the black, silver and blue versions introduced earlier in the year, along with the flagship CT60. While all of the other recent watches from Tiffany’s are conservatively styled, arguably lacking a distinct identity, the new East West is unashamedly Tiffany & Co.

Colour notwithstanding, the new dial is finished similarly to the others, with poudre numerals. French for “powder”, poudre refers to the lacquer impregnated with silver powder used to print the numerals, giving them a fine, granular texture that’s visible only up close. The texture adds to the vintage feel of the watch, complimenting the pencil-shaped hands.

Case dimensions remain the same, at 25 mm wide and 42 mm long. Though sizeable, the slimness and narrowness of the case makes it more suited as a ladies’ watch. Inside is a no-frills quartz movement – this watch relies only on its looks to succeed. That being said, Tiffany has hinted a men’s version of the East West with a mechanical movement is in the works.

The East West in its original colours

The price is USS$3500, or S$5100 in Singapore, the same as the other East West variants.

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A Detailed Look at the F.P. Journe Stainless Steel 38 mm Set

Limited to just 38 sets, the F.P. Journe Steel 38 mm Set comprises the brand's most important wristwatches with steel cases in the discontinued 38 mm size. Here's a detailed look at the set of five.

When François-Paul Journe unveiled his first wristwatch in 1999, it was a tourbillon in a 38 mm platinum case. Since then F.P. Journe has evolved, with its watchcases growing to 40 mm and now 42 mm. The original 38 mm size came to an end this year, with the final run of watches being the limited edition Steel 38 mm set in stainless steel, comprising of five of the brand’s signature timepieces – meriting its inclusion in our Christmas wish-list.

Originals plus one

Four of the watches in the Coffret 38 mm – Tourbillon Souverain, Chronometre a Resonance, Octa Calendrier, Octa Automatique – are in many ways the original F.P. Journe watches. Conceived with a sketch on a napkin in 1994, and introduced between 1999 and 2003, the quartet formed the foundations of the brand. All of them are now discontinued.

In the set they are joined by the Chronometre Souverain, which make its debut in 2005 and is still available. The simplest watch made by the brand, it’s one of the bestselling F.P. Journe watches (especially in the entry-level Chronometre Bleu variant) and makes up the fifth watch in the set.

Gold dials and movements inside steel cases

The quintessential F.P. Journe look originates with his original prototypes, which had platinum cases and the sub-dial of the tourbillon screwed onto the base plate of the gilded movement. That later evolved into the golden dials that collectors find alluring. The steel set replicates that original look, but with subtle differences. Instead of platinum the case is stainless steel, a material rarely used by F.P. Journe. In fact it’s only used for the minute repeater and grand sonnerie wristwatches for its acoustic quality; precious metals, being denser, transmit sound poorly.

Acier means steel
The steel case has a distinct grey tone that differentiates it from platinum

Though the case material is inexpensive, the dials and movements are all solid gold. Rose gold movements are standard for all current F.P. Journe watches. All the movements in the set are standard, except for the tourbillon – more on that below. Though similar to the early Journe watches, the colour and texture of the dial is recognisably different. The dial is finished with what Journe terms a “bronze patina”, a smooth yellow, slightly mustard, colour. And unlike ordinary Journe watches which have black numbers and markings on a silvered dial, the watches of the set substitute black with a dark blue that matches the colour of the blued steel hands.

Tourbillon Souverain

While the other watches in the set contain movements that are identical to those in the regular production models, the movement in the tourbillon is unique. Current production F.P. Journe tourbillons have a rose gold movements and a deadbeat seconds. Early F.P. Journe tourbillons, on the other hand, have more conventional rhodium-plated brass movements with the blade spring of the constant force mechanism (the remontoir) exposed.

The blade spring of the remontoir

The movement inside the stainless steel tourbillon is a combination of both: it has the base plate and bridges in rose gold, but mechanically it is identical to the first generation, brass tourbillon movement. Only the steel tourbillon will ever have this movement.

The rose gold movement

Despite looking similar to the early Journe tourbillons, the steel tourbillon features all the improvements found on current Journe watches, displaying a more refined level of movement finishing.

Chronomètre à Résonance

F.P. Journe has two wristwatches that are emblematic of the brand: the Tourbillon Remontoir and the Resonance. Of the two, the Resonance is arguably more unique. It operates on the principle of resonance, with twin balance wheels that beat in sync. In fact, the Resonance has essentially two movements inside the case, along with two independent time displays, powered by a single barrel.

The steel Resonance is in the original guise of the model as envisioned by Journe in 1994 with a pair of symmetrically positioned sub-dials, along with an off-centre power reserve display at 12 o’clock. This contrasts with the current Resonance which has two differently styled sub-dials. Though the look is like that of the early Resonance, the movement is identical to that in the current model.

Octa Calendrier and Octa Automatique

F.P. Journe’s first self-winding timepiece was the Octa Automatique (a watch that was later known as the Octa Reserve de Marche). It’s a simple but decidedly practical watch, with a large date display and power reserve indicator.

Most of the dial on the Octa Automatique is empty, though the design is still attractively purposeful. Putting the space on the dial to good use is the Octa Calendrier, which is equipped with a more elaborate version of the same movement.

The Octa Calendrier has the addition of an annual calendar mechanism. Requiring adjustment once a year in February – the movement automatically accounts for 30 and 31 day months – the Calendrier has a long arc across the left of the dial for the date, a distinctive characteristic that has been dispensed with in the latest F.P. Journe perpetual calendar.

Chronomètre Souverain

A simple watch with only the time and a power reserve display, the Chronomètre Souverain is the most unusual looking watch of the set. Though it shares the same colour scheme as the rest, the Chronomètre Souverain is obviously designed according to different principles.

But it is still visually pleasing, with the silvered chapter ring of the dial framing its gold centre. Because the Chronomètre Souverain has the largest hands of any watch in the set, the dark blue of the dial is more prominent here than on any of the others, making the colour of numerals more prominent. Despite being simple the Chronomètre Souverain includes some clever details, including the shrunken “7” and “8” on the dial. Neither is immediately apparent, but it ensures that the seconds sub-dial does not cut into any of the numerals.

The movement is nearly symmetrical, with the gear train hidden in the main plate, revealing only the two barrels, the balance and escapement.

Pricing and availability 

The set is priced at SFr268,000 or just over US$300,000. It’s available from F.P. Journe boutiques and authorised dealers, but only to clients vetted by F.P. Journe himself. A potential buyer needs to fill up a slightly intrusive questionnaire detailing his watch collection and personal details.

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Photo Report: Vintage Rolex Asylum 2015 Year End GTG

In early December the largest vintage Rolex enthusiast club in South-East Asia gathered for its annual conclave in the sprawling metropolis of Jakarta, capital of Indonesia. Here's a report from @onioncrown, the Rolex-collecting roving reporter. 

This year’s annual Vintage Rolex Asylum (VRA) get-together was epic, with nearly 100 attendees. Not only was the event attended by collectors from across the 14,000 islands that make up Indonesia, but also from neighbouring countries and even a handful of likeminded enthusiasts from farther afield.

It was a weekend of vintage Rolex passion, with a great diversity of vintage Rolex watches of the highest quality and the rarest variants. Paul Newman Daytonas, gilt and tropical dial Submariners & GMTs, COMEX & military issue watches, the full palette of stella dial Day-Dates were all present during the get together.

Explorer 1016 “tropical”

A Milgauss 6541 “tropical” in the centre
GMT-Master 1675 with the crest of the United Arab Emirates alongside the signature of Dubai ruler Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum

The 2015 gathering is the third and largest to date. [Ed’s note: we also reported on last year’s VRA event.] The first took place shortly after VRA was founded two years ago when a group of vintage Rolex collectors in Jakarta gathered and decided to create the VRA. Since then, the community has grown not only in size – the membership roll now exceeds 80 – but more importantly, in the quality of watches owned by its member.

A pair of uncommon Submariner 5512s “four liner”with chapter ring, the left tropical and the other in mint condition

A pair of COMEX watches joined by a Panerai Luminor 6152

I have always enjoyed horological get-togethers. But what sets vintage Rolex get-togethers apart from the others is that the enjoyment and fascination to see how unique each piece is. That always leads to a great discussion on the minor variations within a particular model reference.

An “Explorer dial” Submariner 6200
The incredibly rare “Pre-Daytona” chronograph in yellow gold with a black gloss dial
A pair of Daytona 6240s

Some watch on a NATO strap

Another thing that I would like to highlight here is the importance of social media in watch collecting these days. This get together wouldn’t have been the great success it was if not for the power of social media. It connects collectors all over the world, and has helped many a VRA member hunting for their next acquisition.

GMT-Master 1675 with the crest of Oman (while the watch at bottom right is a mystery)

Again, it was an epic get-together. Great watches were acquired, important knowledge was passed on, and new friends were made. And I’m certainly looking forward for the next annual get together next year.

All text and images are courtesy of @onioncrown. Follow him on Instagram.

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Introducing the Breguet Classique Moon Phase for Ladies – with a Grand Feu Enamel Dial

A new addition that will be officially unveiled at Baselworld 2016, the Classique Moon Phase for ladies is an elegantly simple complication in the quintessential Breguet style. 

Before SIHH 2016 is even upon us Breguet is revealing a peek at its line-up for Baselworld next year that happens in March. The Breguet Classique Phase de Lune Dame 9088 is a dainty wristwatch with a moon phase display and a fired enamel dial, in the style that is characteristic of Breguet. The gold case is 30 mm in diameter, available with or without diamonds, but with the signature fluted case flanks regardless. Likewise the blued steel hands are a variant of the Breguet sale, with an open tip.

At six o’clock a small aperture reveals the moon, which like all other Breguet moon phase watches has a face on the moon. Though simple the dial has numerous details that hark back to 19th century Breguet pocket watches, including tiny stars that form the minute track, along with a fleur-de-lys as the five minute marker.  Inside is the 537L movement that has an engine turned, solid gold oscillating weight, as well as the hairspring and escapement in silicon, a non-magnetic material that’s also impervious to changes in temperature. The silicon components promise better timekeeping regardless of the environment the watch is worn in. The ladies’ Classique Moon Phase is avialable in white or rose gold, with either the enamel dial pictured here, or a mother of pearl dial with engine turning.

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Up Close with the Richard Mille RM 69 Erotic Tourbillon

The latest from the inimitable Richard Mille, the RM 69 Erotic Tourbillon displays a random message that ranges from the suggestive to the salacious when activated. We go up close with the RM 69, including original photos and price.

Erotic watches have a long tradition in watchmaking, going back centuries to pocket watches with tiny figures doing naughty things. Richard Mille reinterpreted the traditional erotic timepiece in a less graphic, perhaps more subtle, manner. Instead of depicting the act, the RM 69 Erotic Tourbillon relies on three rollers that display a random combination of words that together form a titillating statement. A button at ten o’clock activates the rollers, which spin briefly like the reels of a slot machine before coming to a half. The button at eight o’clock swivels out of the way of the rollers so as not to obstruct the message.

Below the rollers sit the tourbillon regulator. Typical of all Richard Mille tourbillons (which are made by Audemars Piguet subsidiary Renaud & Papi), the tourbillon has a titanium balance wheel with poising gold screws on its rim. The rest of the movement is recognisably Richard Mille as well. All the bridges as well as the baseplate are finished with a matte black coating. And instead of conventional screws, spline screws are used.

To the right of the tourbillon is the power reserve indicator, with white signifying sufficient power and red indicating the watch requires winding. The power reserve of the hand-wound movement is about 69 hours.

The RM 69 has a titanium case that is a large 50mm long and 42.7mm wide, with a thickness of 16.15mm, giving it nearly identical dimensions as the RM011. A tourbillon superimposed on the barrel For the technical minded the unusual construction of the movement is notable: the barrel sits directly under the tourbillon, with both sharing the same central axis. This means the timekeeping component of the movement (the barrel, regulator and gear train) is squeezed into the lower half of the movement. The compact construction means the movement has plenty of space leftover for other complications, sexy or not.

The barrel ratchet wheel visible in the centre
The movement bridges have polished bevelled edges that contrast with the black PVD coating

While the construction of the movement is novel and clever, the erotic complication verges on the comical, especially with the near-US$700,000 price tag. But considering the centimillionaire who’s the average Richard Mille client, it makes sense.  Today Richard Mille remains the only watchmaker able to sell such watches in the tepid luxury watch market. And the nature of the movement means other complications can be substituted, or the rollers modified, so this is not the last you’ve seen of the RM 69.

Pricing and availability Limited to just 30 pieces sold only at Richard Mille boutiques, the RM 69 Erotic Tourbillon has a price tag of, what else, SFr690,000. That’s equivalent to US$696,000.

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