The world’s largest watch and jewellery fair as it describes itself, Baselworld has taken significant flak after industry giant Swatch Group pulled out of Baselworld 2019 in a shock move on a quiet Sunday in July, citing the fair’s unwilling to adapt to the future and the high cost. That soon led to the resignation of the chief executive of MCH, Baselworld’s parent company, followed by the forecast of a large annual loss at the fair and events company.

In the wake of the series of unfortunate incidents – several, smaller brands have since followed the Swatch Group’s lead – Baselworld’s management promised change, including an effort “to guarantee a reasonable price level” of accommodation in the city, which usually balloons to an extortionate rate during the fair.

The reasonable price level has just been revealed, with Baselworld proudly announcing 40 hotels have signed on to its pact. According to Baselworld, the 40 hotels “accounts for more than two thirds of Basels accommodation capacity”, though that figure only includes official hotels within Basel, and not the home rentals (obtained via the likes of Airbnb) or the hotels outside the city that most of the fair’s visitors rely on.

Baselworld’s charter for accommodation lays out four criteria for hotels: an adherence to a price ceiling in each class of hotel (more on that later), no minimum stay, price parity with 2018 rates, and no “compulsion for additional consumption”.

Meeting all four criteria means a hotel is an “Official Partner” of Baselworld; 26 hotels are in that category. “Preferred Partners” only fulfil three of the four qualifications.

The topmost class of hotel is “5***** SUP”, comprising just one hotel – Les Trois Rois, owned by the dental implant billionaire who was the former owner of H. Moser & Cie., Thomas Straumann. The rate ceiling as laid out in Baselworld’s pact is SFr1290 a night, or about US$1280, presumably for a basic room.

Baselworld takes place from March 20 to 26, 2019. According to Les Trois Rois’ own booking site, the rate for the weekend after Baselworld, March 29 to April 1, is SFr450 a night (on Hotel.com the rate for the same is about SFr440). A comparison of the rates offered during Baselworld is unavailable on its website.

But that perhaps is ambitious, since Les Trois Rois is a 19th century grand hotel that has been home to the Dalai Lama and Queen Elizabeth; Napoleon even once lunched there.

Two classes down are the “3***” hotels, which can charge up to SFr550. One hotel in the segment is Motel One, which is modestly named but by most accounts is new, clean and cheerful.

Again for the weekend after Baselworld, the Motel One rate is SFr420 – for three night’s stay. That’s SFr140 a night, and without breakfast all three nights are just SFr366.

During Baselworld 2019, Motel One imposes a four-night minimum stay, and the cost is SFr1512 for the period. That’s SFr378 a night, without breakfast.

The full list of Baselworld partner hotels can be found here.

Long the signature case form of Bell & Ross, the square BR 01 was inspired by aircraft instruments but has long since evolved into a diversity of timepieces, including the brand’s flagship watches in clear, sapphire crystal cases. The latest, and arguably the most elegantly conceived, is the BR-X2 Skeleton Tourbillon Micro-Rotor.

Bell & Ross first debuted a sapphire watch case in 2016 with the BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon Sapphire, which was not unlike most other sapphire case watches – impressively large, yet transparent. That was followed by the equally chunky BR-X1 Skeleton Tourbillon Sapphire.

Last year Bell & Ross took a different tack, streamlining and slimming the case, while also reinventing its construction. The BR-X2 was essentially a movement sandwiched between two sapphire plates, front and back. The new BR-X2 Skeleton ratchets up the transparency by stripping out the movement, which has a construction that lends itself particularly well to open-working.

The sapphire sandwich

Conceived as a movement with barely a watch case, the calibre sits inside a narrow stainless steel frame – the movement and case are essentially one and the same. Two sapphire crystal plates act as the bezel and case back, sandwiching the movement between, creating a construction that has both strength and transparency.

Impressively, the case is only 8.9mm high, with the two sapphire panels accounting for more than half its thickness. The movement alone is a mere 4.05mm high.

Seen from the side, the case is a just narrow band of metal. In fact, the case is slim enough that it is finished with a vertical brushing, which accentuates its height, instead of the usually lateral brushed finish that makes a case seem longer rather than higher. Combined with the 42.5mm diameter and short lugs, the result is an elegantly proportioned case, an unusual feat for a large form watch.

With polished, sloping edges, the sapphire crystals offer a sweeping view of the movement from all perspectives, despite their thickness. Visually, the movement extends right to the edge of the case, framed by the four screws that keep the sapphire crystals in place. And because the case is sealed with clear gaskets, the look is seamless, while also being water-resistant to a surprising 50m.

One of the screws that secures the crystal, along with the clear gasket, seen from the case back

The approach to the case is also a practical one: it eliminates the need to machine the whole case in sapphire, a lengthy and costly process that usually makes the case the most expensive component in an all-sapphire watch. Consequently, the BR-X2 is almost a fifth the price of the BR-X1 of 2017, which had a nine-part sapphire crystal case.

The BR-CAL.381

However, the key feature of the watch is the self-winding movement. As with most of the complicated movements used by Bell & Ross, the BR-CAL.381 was developed by Manufacture Hautes Complications (MHC), a Geneva-based complications specialist founded by Pierre Favre, a watchmaker who was formerly at complications specialist BNB Concept, which was folded into Hublot after it went bust.

While mechanically identical to the movement in last year’s BR-X2, the bridges and base plate here are open-worked, giving it a dramatically different look. While the flying tourbillon regulator was the visual focus in the original BR-X2, especially combined with its large bridges, the negative space within the skeleton movement draws the eye away, compelling one to take in the movement as a whole and then its details.

The open-working reveals the entire workings of the calibre, starting from the micro-rotor at nine o’clock, which is wound by the gearing at 12 o’clock. The mainspring sits at one o’clock, driving the wheel train that extends downwards to the tourbillon at six. Despite the compact barrel, the movement still manages a respectable 50-hour power reserve.

The skeletonisation of the calibre has been done in a clean, architectural style that emphasises the round forms of the wheels as well as the layout of the wheel train and winding mechanism.

Finished simply, the movement is aesthetically congruent with Bell & Ross’ house style. The finish is monochromatic, with most parts being steel or rhodium-plated, but the surface finishes are carefully varied.

While the wheels are circular grained, the front of the bridges and base plate are vertically brushed, while their bevels, flanks and backs are finished with a granular frosting. Similarly, the tungsten alloy rotor is finished with a spiral graining on top, and a coarser frosting on its other faces.

Although the movement appears almost industrial, its details are surprising fine. And because most major parts are visible from the front and back, both sides of each component have to be finished. The slots of most screws are bevelled, while the jewels sit in frosted countersinks. The spokes and inner edges of most wheels are also bevelled.

The rotor is made of an alloy that’s 95% tungsten and twice as dense as steel, with its screws showing bevelled slots

The winding mechanism at top right, with a serrated wheel and elongated click spring

Shaped like the ampersand of Bell & Ross’ logo, the tourbillon cage, however, is finished to a slightly higher degree. While it has a circular brushed top surface, its edges are bevelled and polished. The balance wheel features gold adjusting screws, a feature found on most of MHC’s calibre.

With the intricacies of the movement, the dial is barely there. It’s a circular flange, made of clear sapphire naturally, featuring applied luminous indices that float above the movement, adding another pleasing dimension to the dial. For maximum legibility, or as much legibility as a heavily skeletonised watch can offer, the hands are filled with Super-Luminova and frosted, which means they catch the light different from the brushed surfaces of the movement.

While it is clear that aesthetics and mechanics are what motivated the styling of the BR-X2 skeleton – departing from the typical, no-nonsnse aviation instrument look of Bell & Ross – it is still fairly legible as such things go.

Price and Availability

Limited to 50 watches, the Bell & Ross BR-X2 Skeleton Tourbillon Micro-Rotor (ref. BRX2-MRTB-SK-ST) is priced at US$79,000 or S$115,000. For more on the BR-X2, visit bellross.com.

Vantablack – short for “Vertically Aligned NanoTube Array” – has enthralled not just engineers and nerds, but also artists (Anish Kapoor has exclusive rights in the art world), architects and more recently, watch designers. Developed by Surrey NanoSystems and launched in 2014, Vantablack absorbs 99.965% of incident light, making it the blackest substance ever. It’s essentially made up of carbon nanotubes that are vertically aligned, trapping any light that enters.

But the downside to its incredible light absorbing properties is its prohibitively high cost. The substance can only be applied at 400°C, thus Vantablack can only be used to coat materials that can withstand high temperatures.

A handful of watchmakers, most recently H. Moser & Cie., have used Vantablack as a finish for dials, turning them into a black void inside the watch case. All the watches equipped with Vantablack dials have so far been priced well into the five figures.

The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Moon Vantablack

Prague-based brand Chronotechna, however, has just unveiled “the blackest watch ever made”, priced at just €389 on Kickstarter. According to Chronotechna, the dial of its watch is coated with the “darkest man-made substance… originally developed for satellite-borne blackbody calibration systems”, a substance that absorbs 99.9% of incident light.

Blackest black for less

A name from 1946 that was recently revived, Chronotechna won’t divulge any details about the black coating it uses. That being said, it is worth pointing out that Vantablack is not the only ultra-black on the market. A black coating similar to Vantablack, but more affordable, was launched last year by American nanomaterial specialist Nano-Lab.

It was originally developed as part of the company’s ongoing parternship with NASA, which needed ways to reduce glare on space equipment. Named adVANTA, the coating is one of several lower cost options on the market, which offer up possibilities for wider use. In fact, Nano-Lab also offers Singularity Black, a coating that is applied with an air brush and costs just US$300 for a 250mL can.

The dial is sparse, which lends itself well to the dramatic effect of the coating. It’s ringed by a hour markers that are apertures cut into the dial, giving it a “sandwich construction”. It’s available in four versions, with the Super-Luminova on the dial and hands in green, orange, blue or white.

Measuring 42mm in diameter, the Chronotechna case is stainless steel with a brushed case band and a polished bezel, topped by a domed, “sapphire-coated crystal” (which likely means mineral glass with a hard coating on top). To match the dial, the case is also offered with diamond-like carbon (DLC) coating at no additional cost.

The watches are powered by the self-winding Sellita SW200 in its no-date configuration, which is visible through a sapphire case back.

Price and Availability

The price of the Chronotechna starts at €389 during the Kickstarter launch, with the retail price in the future slated to be just under €2000. It will be available starting 4pm GMT on October 31, 2018.

Correction November 2, 2018: The crystal is sapphire-coated, and not sapphire as stated in an earlier version of the article.

In 2010 Seiko debuted the Presage Cocktail Time collection, a line of watches created in collaboration with noted bartenders in Japan. The latest made its debut last year, inspired by the concoctions of Hisashi Kishi, the award-winning bartender at the Star Bar in Ginza, Tokyo. Conceived to evoke the ritzy libations of Japan’s cosmopolitan bar scene with a variety of dial colours, the Cocktail series combines diversity of design and value for money.

Seiko has now launched the Presage Cocktail ‘Fuyugeshiki’, a trio of limited editions inspired by Mr Kishi’s cocktail of the same name. Translating as winter scene, the Fuyugeshiki feature white, delicately textured dials that resemble a bank of freshly fallen snow. The grained pattern is reminiscent of the popular Grand Seiko Spring Drive “Snowflake” SBGA211, though not quite as delicate as on the pricier Grand Seiko.

The Fuyugeshiki range comprises of three models: the SSA385J1 with date and power reserve, SRPC97J1 and SRP843J1 for ladies. They share the same classical lance-shaped hands and sharp, faceted hour markers inspired by the stem of a glass, and are fitted with a highly domed, “box-type” Hardlex crystal (which is mineral glass coated with a scratch-resistant layer).

The Presage Cocktail ‘Fuyugeshiki’ SSA385J1 measures 40.5mm in diameter and 14.4mm in height – the thickness of the case due to the power reserve and date displays. It is powered by the automatic 4R57, which indicates the date in a sub-dial at six, and the power reserve on the periphery of the dial from 12 to four o’clock.

The Presage Cocktail ‘Fuyugeshiki’ SRPC97J1 is a simple automatic for men, in a 40.5mm by 11.8mm steel case. It has a date display at three o’clock. The watch is powered by the 4R35, Seiko’s workhorse movement for its mid-range timepieces that has both hacking seconds and quickset date.

The Presage Cocktail ‘Fuyugeshiki’ SRP843J1 is essentially the same watch for ladies, in a 33.8mm by 11.3mm case. It is otherwise identical to the SRPC97J1 and powered by the same 4R35 movement.

Price and Availability

The Seiko Presage Cocktail ‘Fuyugeshiki’ SSA385J1 and SRPC97J1 are limited to 7,000 pieces each and priced at US$610 and US$470 respectively, while the SRP843J1 is limited to 5,000 pieces, priced at US$450. They are available at Seiko retailers and boutiques worldwide.

Correction November 2, 2018: The crystal is Hardlex and not sapphire as stated in the previous version of the article.

Though inspired by a 1999 Urwerk creation, which was itself inspired by a 1950s experimental watch, the UR-111C is still original and different enough to be the most compelling Urwerk wristwatch since the debut of the satellite cube display.

When it was founded in 1997 by watchmaker brothers Felix and Thomas Baumgartner, and designer Martin Frei, Urwerk relied on a simple but then radical formula – reinventing the classical wandering hours time display by installing it in an avant-garde watch case. They were aided by the precision machining specialist Christian Gros who’s responsible for many of the complex forms within and without an Urwerk watch, and still works with the brand today. That resulted in the watch that was decisive in establishing Urwerk on the horological map, the UR-103.01 of 2003.

But Urwerk’s greatest invention arrived in 2005, when Harry Winston unveiled the Opus V – developed and built by Urwerk – which told the time with a trio of rotating cubes and a retrograde hand. Originally and still compelling today, the satellite cube display is quintessentially Urwerk. Since then Urwerk’s watches have been improvements and iterations of either the wandering hours or satellite cube displays until the new UR-111C.

The UR-111C disassembled. Photo – Urwerk

The Cobra

The UR-111C originates with the UR-CC1 “King Cobra” of 2009, a large, intriguing, and for the period, preposterously expensive wristwatch that cost almost US$300,000. Fifty were made and it is unknown if the entire run was actually sold.

But the King Cobra was itself based on an equally radical wristwatch of 1958, the Patek Philippe ref. 3414 designed by Geneva jeweller Gilbert Albert and constructed by watchmaker Louis Cottier as a prototype. Housed in a chunky case with a bark finish, the watch indicated the time with twin linear displays, and was a glorious vision of the future as seen from the 1950s. But the idea never went anywhere and the prototype today remains in the Patek Philippe Museum.

The UR-CC1 King Cobra with a black AlTiN coating. Photo – Urwerk

The calibre inside the UR-CC1. Photo – Urwerk

Explaining the UR-111C

The UR-111C is essentially an evolution of the King Cobra, but improved with additional features that boost legibility, a sleeker and more wearable case, and a much lower price. While the King Cobra had twin drums for a double linear display, as well as a single-disc digital seconds, the UR-111C relies on a single linear display and double digital seconds.

The key feature of the UR-111C is the linear time display under the oblong sapphire window on the lower front of the case. A cylindrical drum marked with a yellow line makes one revolution per hour, indicating the minutes as the yellow stripe advances upwards along the minute track, marked from “0” to “60” in five-minute intervals.

Although its form is unusual, the minutes are actually a highly complex retrograde display. At the top of the hour when the yellow marker hits “60”, the drum makes a larger, instantaneous jump to bring the marker back to zero. That’s possible thanks to a cylindrical spring sitting inside the drum that is wound up as the drum rotates and progresses towards the top of the hour, before releasing to return the drum back to zero.

A closeup of the exploded movement detailing the spring that drives the retrograde cylinder display. Photo – Urwerk

For extra legibility a conical drum on the lower right corner of the case also indicates the minutes with single minute hashmarks. The hours are indicated on the opposite, lower right corner on a similar conical drum.

Taking inspiration from the seconds on the King Cobra, the seconds display is executed in an unusual form, with a pair of open-worked discs each carrying alternating seconds numerals in five-second intervals. Each disc turns in the opposite direction to the other, so the seconds numerals sweep downwards in the display.

But it is thanks to a thin slice of optical fibre – tightly bundled strands of glass individually as wide as a human hair – that the numerals are magnified and seemingly projected onto the surface of the sapphire window. The entire concept is a clever manner of displaying perhaps the most ordinary segment of the time.

The twin seconds discs. Photo – Urwerk

The optical fibre for the seconds display

Just below the window for the digital seconds is the roller crown, a long, fluted cylinder that is operated with the thumb to wind the watch. Pulling out a lever recessed into the right side of the case engages the time-setting mechanism, which is also operated by the roller.

While not as convenient as a conventional crown – it feels like more rotations of the roller are needed to accomplish the same task – the roller creates a cleaner case design, removing the enormous crown that was an Urwerk trademark in most of its watches.

Driving all of the inventive mechanics is the prosaic but reliable Zenith Elite, the self-winding movement that is also the base for Urwerk’s other self-winding calibres, but practically unrecognisable within the proprietary Urwerk movement.

An exploded view of the entire watch, with the base movement highlighted. Photo – Urwerk

Hexagon no more

While an novel watch in itself, the UR-111C is also notable for departing from Urwerk’s most recent style of design, which tends towards large and aggressive. Its flagship, satellite cube-equipped UR-210 is reminiscent of the “hexagon” geometry favoured by Lamborghini, while the UR-T8 is big and scaly.

In comparison the UR-111C feels sleek. Measuring 42mm by 46mm and standing 15mm high, the UR-111C is a large but manageable watch, especially since the case is slightly curved.

Aside from the lengthwise fluting on the case, front and back, the design is restrained, with much of it being functional, as a consequence of how the case is put together. The two exposed holes for screws above each conical drum (which are also found on the case back) are to secure the case, which is built like a sleeve to house the movement. The movement is mounted on the right flank of the case, which serves almost as a base plate, and then slides into the case middle.

Slotting the movement into the case middle. Photo – Urwerk

Closing off the case with the left flank. Photo – Urwerk

Two case finishes are available for the UR-111C: brushed steel in its natural colour, or a granular, medium grey “gunmetal” coating as pictured. The grey finish fits the highly mechanical appearance of the watch perfectly, though the brushed steel looks more like a high-end watch thanks to its silvery colour and shine.

Pricing

Limited to 25 in each finish, the UR-111C is priced at SFr130,000 before taxes. It is already available from Urwerk retailers.

Update October 30, 2018: Images of case assembly process added.

Correction October 31, 2018: The twin discs pictured are for the seconds, and not the date as previously written.

Longines’ Heritage collection relies on its extensive archive, skilful adherence to original design, and sensible pricing, to create a string of appealing historical remakes, including the recent Heritage Skin Diver. Shown at Baselworld 2018 but not officially launched, the latest addition is the Heritage Military Watch that takes its “faux patina” very seriously.

Based on the 1940s 6B/159 pilot’s watch supplied to the British Royal Air Force – other suppliers of the watch included Omega and LeCoultre – the Heritage Military retains the key features that distinguished the 6B/159, a white dial with a railroad minute track and blued steel hands, setting it apart from nearly all military pilot’s watches that have black dials (though some remaining 6B/159 watches were later refurbished with black dials in the 1950s by the British military).

A 1940s 6B/159 from the Longines Museum

The modern day remake is made to look like it has actually seen service in the 1940s thanks to an off-white dial peppered with flecks of black paint, a convincing replica of the aged originals. It is nevertheless the result of a modern process, with the dial being spray with black paint by hand to create a random pattern, making each dial unique.

Staying true to the original, which was hand-wound, the Heritage Military Watch is the only self-winding watch in Longines’ catalogue that does not bear the “Automatic” label on the dial. And it also has a similar oversized, “flat onion” crown, as well as a domed, “box-type” sapphire crystal to mimic the the original’s PlexiGlas crystal.

There are, of course, a few elements that bring the watch up to date, the first being its size. The stainless steel case has been bumped up to 38.5mm, compared to 32.5mm of the original, with a height of 11.7mm, a size that is nonetheless relatively compact by modern standards.

Notably, while screw-down backs are almost standard amongst Longines’ sports watches today, the Heritage Military has a snap-on back with a brushed finish, just like the original 6B/159 (which had military markings that are necessarily absent from the remake).

Hidden behind the case back is the automatic cal. L888.2 – the same movement found in the Heritage Skin Diver and Railroad. It’s essentially an improved ETA 2892-A2 made exclusively for Longines, with the most significant upgrade being its 64-hour power reserve instead of the standard 42.

Price and Availability

The Longines Military Watch (ref. L2.819.4.93.2) is priced at US$2150 or S$3180, and will be available starting November 2018.

F.P. Journe revealed the outline of the new Line Sport when the Chronograph Monopoussoir Rattrapante made its debut in January. While the overall styling remained the same, preserving elements like the rubber inserts and aluminium movement, the case was enlarged and given a ceramic bezel. Now those improvements have been ported over to the new Centigraphe Sport and Octa Sport.

Both watches have 44mm, titanium cases with matching bracelets, compared to 42mm on the previous generation. As before, the cases and bracelets feature the signature rubber inserts of the Line Sport. Images are not yet available, but platinum and hammered 18k red gold cases will also be available subsequently.

The bezels have a ceramic insert, and both watches contain movements with the bridges and base plate in aluminium for lightness. And most notably, the duo have bright yellow lacquered dials.

The Centigraphe with its see-through sapphire registers

The Centigraphe Sport CTS 2 is powered by the ca. 1506, and is technically identical to the earlier generation Centigraphe Sport. It’s hand-wound and has an 80-hour power reserve, which drops to 24 hours if the chronograph is run continuous. The counter at 10 o’clock is a lightning seconds intended to measure 1/100th of a second, with the hand making one revolution every second.

The case is a slim 10.7mm high and in its entirety, including the bracelet, the Centigraphe Sport weighs just 75g.

The Octa Sports ARS 2 is indicates the date, power reserve, as well as day or night in a bean-shaped window at nine o’clock. Though the functions are the same as on the outgoing Octa Sport, the second generation has an enlarged date display to suit the larger case.

Inside is the self-winding cal. 1300-3 that has a six day power reserve. It’s slightly thicker than the chronograph at 11mm high, but weighs the same 75g.

Price and availability 

The Octa Sport is priced at SFr36,000, while the Centigraphe Sport is SFr56,000. Both prices include 7.7% Swiss tax. The watches will be available end October at F.P. Journe retailers and boutiques.

Update October 27, 2018: Prices added.

Phillips’ upcoming Geneva watch auction is 223-lots strong, boasting the usual assortment of valuable timepieces from names like Patek Philippe and Rolex. But it also includes a selection of uncommon and intriguing timepieces from remote corners of the horological universe. They include watches from independent watchmakers like the late Richard Daners, and a Second World War Japanese airforce pilot’s watch, but also less obvious watches from big names like Omega.

Here’s a round-up of the interesting and esoteric watches in The Geneva Watch Auction: Eight, which takes place in mid November.

Lot 11 – Gübelin minute repeater pocket watch by Richard Daners

One of the oldest watch and jewellery stores in the world – founded in 1854, just 15 years after Patek Philippe – Gübelin was unusual amongst retailers with its long partnership with the late independent watchmaker Richard Daners, a contemporary of Derek Pratt and Daniel Roth.

The German, who passed away just earlier this year, started working with Gübelin in 1979, creating many unusual and complicated watches over the span of about two decades, particularly astronomical complications and tourbillons.

One of his most major and last creations was a triple axis tourbillon pocket watch for the 150th anniversary of Gübelin in 2004, developed together with watchmaker Marion Müller. But the best known are probably the bras en l’air timepieces, which tell the time via twin arms of a figure on the dial. These are today synonymous with Thomas Prescher, who had worked with Mr Daners before.

Made in 1988 by Mr Daners for Gübelin, this pocket watch has a striking, graduated colour rainbow dial in translucent vitreous enamel over a guilloche base. The novelty is further enhanced by the single-hand time display on a 24-hour scale.

The case is 43.5mm in diameter, smallish for a pocket watch, and contains what is likely a vintage minute repeated ebauche that was modified, completed and decorated by Mr Daners.

Accompanied by its box and a Gübelin archive extract, the pocket watch has an estimate of SFr15,000 to SFr25,000, or about US$15,400 to US$25,600, which is likely less than what it cost 30 years ago as a consequence of the unfashionable appeal of pocket watches in today’s market.

Lot 25 – Rolex Day-Date prototype in stainless steel

Much like the unique Daytona “Zenith” in platinum that recently sold for US$871,000, the Rolex Day-Date in stainless steel is a fairly ordinary looking watch that is notably rare and vastly more valuable than its ordinary equivalent.

Usually available only in precious metals being the top of the line Rolex, the Day-Date was launched in 1956. In 1977, it was upgraded with a new movement, the cal. 3055, as well as a sapphire crystal, resulting in a new model reference, 18000.

This watch is a prototype in stainless steel, believed to be from 1976 and built to test the cal. 3055. According to Phillips, it was acquired by the current owner from a former Rolex watchmaker involved in developing the cal. 3055, who was gifted the watch upon retirement.

Being a prototype the watch has neither a case nor reference number, though the movement is numbered “0005073”, not too far off from the movement number, “0004547”, of another steel Day-Date that’s known and included in Italian collector John Goldberger’s 100 Superlative Rolex Watches.

This has an estimate of SFr60,000 to SFr120,000, or US$61,500 to US$123,000.

Lot 36 – Omega Speedmaster “Alaska I” prototype

The latest in a surprising number of prototype Omega watches that have come to market in the last two years (which includes the tourbillon wristwatch that sold for over US$1.4m) is one of the experimental watches Omega developed for NASA, which wanted wristwatches able to survive extreme environments.

Codenamed “Alaska”, the project resulted in several series of wristwatches, including this example, which comes from the “second batch” of “Alaska I” watches according to the Omega Museum certificate that accompanies the watch.

Sharing the same steel case as the Speedmaster Mark II, this watch has an unusual white dial and mineral crystal, as well as the cal. 861 inside. Improvements were made to the cal. 861 used in the “Alaska” watches, including special lubricants that could remain stable in low temperatures.

The watch is in surprisingly sharp condition, and has an estimate of SFr40,000 to SFr60,000, or US$41,000 to US$61,500. If values of the past “Alaska” prototypes are anything to go by, this will likely finish well into six-figure territory.

Lot 38 – Omega ref. PA14321 automatic in platinum “single piece”

Less visually interesting but perhaps as rare as an “Alaska” prototype is this 1952 Omega automatic in platinum. Platinum watches by Omega, or by any brand for that matter, from the period are exceedingly rare, and this example was “ordered as a single piece” and sold in Spain, according to the Omega Museum certificate.

The style of the watch is classically beautiful: it has a striking, two-tone hobnail dial with diamond markers for the quarters and dauphine hands. The dial is notably clean for a watch of this type and age, a quality echoed in the crisp condition of the case.

The case is 35mm in diameter, and contains the cal. 342, an early self-winding movement.

It has an estimate of SFr50,000 to SFr100,000, or US$51,200 to US$102,000.

Lot 75 – Ulysse Nardin minute repeating wristwatch, c. 1950

Perhaps unfair given the history and accomplishments of the brand, Ulysse Nardin is rarely prominent when it comes to highlights at auction. But this watch thorough deserves the attention, being extremely rare and good value as such things go.

It’s a Ulysse Nardin minute repeater wristwatch from 1950, handsome in a manner that most mid-20th century watches are, while being moderately sized at 36mm in diameter.

The hand-wound movement is typical of minute repeaters of the Vallee de Joux, with three finger bridges for the wheel train, and was probably produced by one of the well known movement makers of the area.

Because Ulysse Nardin is not typically associated with such a watch – its best known vintage timepieces are marine chronometers – the estimate is a modest SFr70,000 to SFr140,000, or US$71,700 to US$143,000.

Lot 196 – Seikosha Tensoku pilot’s watch

Made by Seikosha and issued to the pilots of the Japanese army and navy during the Second World War, the tensoku tokei, or 天測時計 that translates as “astronomical observation watch”, is an oversized, 48.5mm wristwatch with a distinctive dial featuring red and white markings. Though worn by pilots in general, these watches are unfortunately sometimes nicknamed “Kamikaze”, after the pilots who crashed their planes into enemy ships in suicide attacks as the war neared its end. Kamikaze pilots belonged to the Tokubetsu Kogekitai (特別攻撃隊), or “special attack corps”, sometimes abbreviated as tokkotai, another nickname for this watch.

Like the extra-large beobachtungsuhr worn by German pilots of the Second World War Luftwaffe, the tensoku tokei was designed to be worn over a flight suit, with an bulbous crown that was easy to operate while wearing gloves. The case back is marked with the kanji characters for “sky” (other examples are marked “air soldier”), as well as the issue number of the watch, “8363”.

Two generations of the tensoku tokei were produced, the first powered by a 15-jewel movement with some decoration, followed by a simpler, nine-jewel movement.

This has an estimate of SFr8000 to SFr12,000, or US$8,200 to US$12,300. It’s worth noting that Sotheby’s has a similar tensoku tokei in their Geneva auction that takes place a day after Phillips’, with an identical estimate.

Lot 202 – Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine Chronometer ‘Eastern Arabic’

One of several editions produced exclusively for the Middle East (other examples include Rolex and IWC), this is a Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine Chronometer from 2015, reputedly consigned by an important collector from the region.

Eastern Arabic have been used with varying degrees of aesthetic success, but Ulysse Nardin’s take on the style works well. It has an metallic olive green dial featuring Eastern Arabic hour markers in applied rose gold, matched with a date wheel in the same script.

The watch it is based on is the signature modern day Ulysse Nardin, with its dial inspired by the boxed and gimballed marine chronometers Ulysse Nardin once specialised in. The dial layout, with the power reserve at 12 o’clock and seconds below, as well as the hands are both distinct features of vintage marine chronometers.

Inside is the UN-118, an in-house automatic movement with its hairspring, escape wheel and pallet fork made of silicon.

The watch is complete with box and papers stamped by Al-Manara, the leading watch retailer in Abu Dhabi. It has an estimate of SFr6000 to SFr12,000, or US$6100 to US$12,300.

Auction information

The Geneva Watch Auction: Eight takes place on November 10 and 11, 2018, at the La Reserve hotel in Geneva.

The lots are on display at the same location from November 8 to 11. The full catalogue is available online here.

Following the 1800 S Damaszener of 2016, Sinn has just unveiled a second edition entirely in Damascus steel. As with the first model, the new 1800 Damaszener features an unusual case construction, with the case and dial being a single piece forged from a block of steel.

Ancient Damascus steel is a mythical alloy once used for blades so sharp they could cut through a piece of floating silk. Believed to have originated during the Middle Ages in the Middle East and India, the technique to cast Damascus steel was all but lost during the 17th century.

The modern day alloy of the same name – Damaszener stahl in German – is actually pattern welded steel, formed of several pieces of different steel alloys welded together, then drawn and folded multiple times to create a single billet that can then be worked. The result is the distinctive, layered surface that resembles woodgrain, making it a favourite material for high-end custom knives.

The case of the 1800 Damaszener was made by German Damascus steel specialist Balbach Damast, located not far from Sinn’s hometown of Frankfurt. Two alloys of high grade stainless steel were forge-welded, then repeatedly folded and hammered, resulting in the undulating lines that ripple across the dial and case. Because the case and dial are made from a single piece of steel, the surface pattern is seamless, continuing across the whole case, going from dial to bezel to case flanks.

While the first Sinn Damaszener had a black coating on the case and dial, the new version leaves the steel in its natural grey colour. But the differences in the internal layers of the alloy are amplified through acid etching. Steel alloys react to acid differently, which results in differing shades of grey across the surface.

The case back – which is a separate component from the case – crown and strap buckle are also made of Damascus steel.

In addition, all of the Damascus steel parts also undergo Sinn’s patented, surface-hardening Tegiment process, which strengthens its scratch resistance by changing the molecular structure of the metal surface, making it more crystalline.

Water-resistant to 100m, the case measures 43mm in diameter and contains the robust ETA 2892-A2, a tried and tested self-winding movement that offers a 42-hour power reserve.

Price and Availability

The Sinn 1800 Damaszener is limited to 100 pieces and is priced at US$8580 or €7800.

Whispered about since SIHH 2018 when a handful of clients were shown a preview (and when Lange also launched the major chronograph of the year), the Datograph Lumen has just been unveiled at the opening of A. Lange & Söhne’s new boutique in Dresden. A limited edition of 200 watches, it’s a variant of the Datograph Up/Down, and the fourth watch in Lange’s series of glow-in-the-dark special editions, which include the Grand Lange 1 Lumen and the Zeitwerk Luminous “Phantom” occasionally worn by no less than Richemont chief Johann Rupert himself.

Notably, the Datograph Lumen is only the second limited edition Datograph ever produced, after the 10-piece run for Pisa Orologeria in 2004. As Lange limited editions go, the Datograph Lumen is a pretty special watch.

Like the other Lumen watches, the new Datograph has a translucent, grey-tinted sapphire dial, circled by a tachymetric track printed on a German silver ring; Lange watch dials are typically plated solid silver.

This reveals the carefully pearled base plate of the L951.7 movement, but more importantly, the discs of the trademark oversized date inspired by the digital clock installed in Dresden’s Semper Opera.

The hour and minute hands are solid gold, while the counter hands are blued steel

The hands, power reserve pointer, date, chronograph registers, minute and tachymetre track glow green in the dark, because they are coated with Super-Luminova, the conventional luminescent compound used for watches. Super-Luminova is mostly made up of strontium aluminate, absorbing light energy that is then discharged as a glow in darkness.

A special date

But the signature date has been tweaked for this watch. While in the ordinary Datograph the date indicated via two white discs, in the Datograph Lumen only the disc for the first digit of the date (which goes from “1” to “3”) is white. The disc for the second digit is actually a thin wheel of glass, printed with the date numerals and set against a luminous background.

The glass date wheel, along with the cross for the tens of the date numeral, and the Super-Luminova-coated central seconds hand

The changes to the movement mean it is a new calibre, which is why it is named L951.7, instead of L951.6 as in the ordinary Datograph. Slightly thicker at 8.1m high (the ordinary version is 7.9mm), the Datograph Lumen movement is made up of 454 parts, compared to 451 in the L951.6. The three extra parts in the Datograph Lumen movement are the luminous background plate for the date, a screw to secure the plate, and the glass plane for the “hat” of the power reserve indicator.

Circling back

More so than the ordinary Datograph, the aesthetic of the Lumen edition is dominated by repeating circles, from the registers to power reserve to the date mechanism. The shift in appearance, despite it being essentially the same watch, is primarily due to the date display now being circular, as opposed to its traditional, two-window box.

The result is a more contemporary look, a radical departure from the original, formally classical Datograph that still relied on Roman numerals for the hour markers. If the Datograph Up/Down is the in-between, the bridge between yesterday and tomorrow, the Lumen is definitely the future.

The other important visual quality of the Datograph Lumen is its colour palette. Historically the Datograph is synonymous with stark, black and silver dials, in contrast, the Datograph Lumen is shades of grey and white. The restrained colours are a consequence of the Super-Luminova, which can only be mixed with a moderate amount of colouring while still retaining bright glow. Black Super-Luminova does exist, and it has been used on other watches, but it barely lights up in the dark.

The same fundamentals

The rest of the Datograph Lumen is identical to the standard model. The case remains the same 41mm in diameter, though it is slightly thicker at 13.4mm high, compared to 13.1mm for the ordinary Datograph. Necessary for the modified date mechanism, the increase in height is imperceptible, and accommodated by a slightly higher bezel.

From the back the view is exactly the same, but it is magnificent enough that nothing needs to be changed in the first place. The movement is visually almost identical to that in the original Datograph, save for some minor tweaks, as well as a upgrade to a free-sprung, adjustable mass balance wheel. But as with all of the Up/Down watches, the Lumen has a 60-hour power reserve, compared to just 38 in the original.

Already well known and highly regarded, the Datograph movement is an overdose of the decorative techniques Lange is known for. The straight grained steel levers of the chronograph contrast with the warmer, silvery tones of the German silver bridges, accented by the liberal use of blued steel screws and rubies in gold chatons.

Mechanically the Datograph movement also boasts an unusual feature: a jumping minutes counter hand that ticks forward in precise, one-minute steps. This contrasts with minute counters in most chronographs, which creep forward over the course of a minute, or start moving just before the elapsed seconds hand passes “12”.

Although the basic calibre inside is now nearly two decades old – or 23 years old if counted from the year development began – the L951 movement remains a landmark in contemporary watchmaking just because it is so finely constructed and decorated.

Price and availability 

Limited to only 200 watches, the Datograph Lumen (ref. 405.034) is priced at €95,000, including 19% German tax. It’s available at Lange retailers and boutiques, starting end October 2018. For more, visit A. Lange & Söhne.

Update November 7, 2018: The three extra parts of the Datograph Lumen movement are detailed.