Urwerk’s avant-garde approach to telling the time is most affordable with the UR-100, the brand’s entry-level model that nonetheless features its signature satellite-disc wandering hours. Having been executed in different finishes in several small runs – most recently with the UR-100V T-Rex – the watch now makes its debut in its most novel livery yet – the UR-100V “Blue Planet”.

Initial thoughts

The Blue Planet is the seventh iteration of the UR-100 – from titanium, to gunmetal, and a luxe version in solid gold – which is unsurprisingly since the model has sold well due to its affordability, wearability, and unique design. The sheer number of editions diminishes the appeal of the Blue Planet somewhat, even though the blue treatment is a first.

While the Blue Planet might feel underwhelming simply being a new colour, it is actually unique amongst Urwerk watches for having a blue movement. Despite the Technicolor palette that Urwerk has applied to its cases, its dials – which are actually part of the movement – have always been black, grey, or silver.

Though only a new colour, but it’s a departure from the norm for the brand, which typically has a consistent style. So for the Urwerk fan who wants something different, this is something different without being excessive. But for someone casually interested in the brand, this is probably not that different.

An all-blue hue

The case of the Blue Planet is coated with a dark blue ceramic coating, with the components of the time display are finished in a darker, metallic shade of the colour. Standing out against the all-blue aesthetic are minute hand and 60-minute marker in bright green.

Almost entirety of the wandering hours display is rendered blue, albeit in subtly different shades. Most notable are the titanium screws, which are heat blued in the traditional way relying on a technique Urwerk cofounder Felix Baumgartner learnt from his clockmaker father. A tiny but significant detail, the flame-blued metal is a first for Urwerk, and harks back to old-school watchmaking.

Like the previous iterations of the UR-100, the Blue Planet is powered by the UR 12.01, which has a slim Vaucher automatic as the base to power Urwerk’s proprietary time display module.

Most of the elements of the movement have been finished in blue as well, including the turbine rotor. The “planetary turbine automatic system” functions like a conventional rotor, but its rotational speed is governed by a seven-toothed wheel fixed to a smaller gear below that meshes with a large-toothed ring on the perimeter of the movement. This design is meant to moderate the movement of the rotor, preventing it from spinning too quickly during vigorous activities.

Key facts and price

Urwerk UR-100 “Blue Planet”

Case diameter: 41 mm
Case height: 14 mm
Material: Steel with blue PVD coating
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: UR 12.01
Features: Satellite hours and minutes; Earth’s rotational and orbital distance
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Blue fabric

Limited edition: 25 pieces
Availability: At Urwerk retailers
Price: 48,000 Swiss francs

For more, visit Urwerk.com.

Correction February 3, 2025: The UR-100V is powered by a Vaucher base movement, and not a Zenith Elite as indicated in an earlier version of the article.

One of several historical reissues Longines launched this year, the Heritage Silver Arrow is modelled on a wristwatch produced for a brief period starting in 1955. Named after the aluminium-bodied Mercedes race cars of the period, the watch was sleek, simple, and accented with details in the metalwork, something that the remake captures well.

Notably, this is the second remake of the Silver Arrow, the first was launched in 2009 as the Silver Arrow 1955, and it had a date at three.

Initial thoughts

It’s becoming a cliche, but Longines does vintage remakes well and also does a lot of them. The designers at Longines are well versed with remakes, and they have clearly gotten better with time.

The Silver Arrow still manages to outdo its peers in many ways, because it manages to get practically everything right. Longines’ remakes are uniformly good, but to varying degrees, and the Silver Arrow is one of the best.

That’s helped by the fact that the vintage original is a straightforward watch, with only a few key elements that define the watch. Longines got all that right: the details are reasonably correct and well executed, the quality of finish is good, and the watch is a good size that evokes the feeling of the vintage original.

Like all vintage remakes, the Silver Arrow is neither creative nor imaginative, but it is a handsome watch that is strong value for money. And that’s enough to make this a compelling choice for someone looking for a time-only watch in the US$2,000 segment.

Dial details

The best feature of the Silver Arrow is the dial. At a distance it’s seemingly plain – ivory, finely grained, and matched with dauphine hands. But the markers are polished and fluted, allowing them to catch the light. Also found on the vintage original, the fluted indices make the dial.

As on the original, the dial is also slightly domed, putting the hour markers at a slight incline. And because the dial is under a domed sapphire crystal, the watch pulls off the vintage look convincingly.

Like the hour markers, the markings on the dial stick closely to the vintage original. A period Longines logo sits at 12 o’clock, while the model name is rendered in italic script. Both are printed thickly, giving the lettering a heavier weight than on the original. It’s just how modern printing is done, but it does take away from the vintage feel in a subtle way.

The Super-Luminova on the dial is slightly yellow to mimic aged radium, which is an affectation that the watch can do without. However, there isn’t much on the dial, which largely makes the lume a moot point.

Sleek and slim

The case is 38.5 mm wide and 9.9 mm high – quite a lot bigger than the original, but still smaller than the average modern watch, which helps its vintage feel.

Like the dial, the case is defined by a handful of details. Perhaps the best example of how the remake has been smartly redesigned are the lugs. They are similar to the original, but scaled up to suit the wider and thicker case. But they are done well enough the original’s look is preserved.

The lugs are fairly flat and gently curve towards the strap, while also having a faint bevel on their inner edges, with a wider, more obvious bevel on the outer edge. As a result, the lugs are elegant, unlike some Longines remakes that reproduce the look of the original but feel too chunky.

At 9.9 mm high, the Silver Arrow is surprisingly thin, with the case construction making it seem even slimmer than it is. The bezel is slightly recessed into the lugs, while the back is slightly domed. Add to that the narrow case back, and the watch sits elegant and flat on the wrist.

The domed crown is another element that reproduces the original

As with recent Longines remakes, the movement inside is a latest-generation ETA calibre made exclusively for Longines. It’s an L888.5, which is essentially an ETA 2892 that’s been upgraded substantially.

That includes a 72-hour power reserve that’s almost double the 42 hours of the stock 2892. And it is also equipped with a silicon hairspring, resulting in the unusual frequency of the balance wheel – 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz). Determined to be optimal for the silicon hairsprings used by Swatch Group, it is the frequency for all movements equipped with silicon hairsprings across the group’s brands, including those from Omega and Breguet.

And because it has a silicon hairspring, the watch has a five-year warranty, instead of the usual two. It is difficult to imagine a movement like this suffering from any sort of mechanical failure – it’ll most likely keep good time well beyond the five years – but the warranty is still a nice bonus.

Concluding thoughts

The Silver Arrow doesn’t try to do too much, and focuses on recreating the look and feel of the original. It’s been carefully designed to convey the spirit of the original, avoiding pitfalls like too-thick lugs, which indicates the designers know what they are doing. The only bit that isn’t very good is the strap, but that’s easy to fix. In short, it’s a good watch that’s excellent value.

Having explored the Citizen Caliber 0200 last week, we now focus on arguably the most important aspect of the watch – the cal 0200 within. An important achievement for Citizen, the cal. 0200 is the brand’s first high-end automatic movement. The fact that the watch was named after its movement indicates its significance, and also the fact that the watch was constructed around the movement, rather than vice versa.

The Caliber 0200 wristwatch is high quality, particularly in the finishing of its case and bracelet. That’s all the more impressive given its US$6,000 price tag, which leaves the best of class in its price segment in terms of finishing and quality. But the Caliber 0200’s merits are all encompassing – its movement is as accomplished as the external components.

The cal. 0200 is an all-new, in-house automatic with with the features expected of a modern movement, and a little bit more. Beyond its intrinsic qualities, it is also notable for being a fusion of Japanese and Swiss watchmaking: its development, production, and assembly is done by Citizen in Japan, but with a key contribution from Swiss movement maker La Joux-Perret, which makes the base plate and bridges, and helped to refine the movement decoration.

The rest of the movement – from development and construction to finishing and assembly – is done by Citizen at its headquarters in Tokyo. In fact, Citizen set up a specialised workshop, the Mechanical Watch Elements Development Department (or ME team for short) specifically for the cal. 0200.

The ME team led the development of the movement, and continues to oversee the production of its components as well as assembly. Comprised primarily of engineers, the ME Team also includes a “meister” watchmaker (“meister” is a title bestowed by the Japanese government to top craftsmen and artisans in many fields) from Citizen’s movement manufacturing division. For an insider’s understanding of the cal. 0200, we spoke with Kenji Tsuchiya, an engineer from the ME team over Zoom.

[Editor’s note: The watch pictured is a prototype, explaining some imperfections in the movement finish.]

The foundation

In essence, the movement is as fuss-free as it can be – it has no central seconds, which means the gear train is as straightforward as possible. As in a traditional, manual-wind movement, the going train starts with the mainspring at 12 clock, and leads to the fourth wheel at six o’clock, which directly drives subsidiary seconds.

The layout of the cal. 0200 brings to mind a classical hand-wind movement with sub-seconds at six

The traditional layout of the gear train optimises the volume of the movement by spreading out the moving parts on the same plane. Almost three-quarters of the movement’s footprint is occupied by the going train, but it has been arranged to conveniently occupy just one side of the movement, leaving more space for other important elements like the balance wheel.

The barrel ratchet wheel, with the large barrel visible below

And the largish balance wheel is secured with a comparatively small cock, leaving the remaining space next to the barrel for the automatic winding mechanism. The winding mechanism of the cal. 0200 is tried and tested, relying on a single reverser wheel adapted from the Miyota 82 series movement, a robust calibre produced in immense volumes, making efficient performance a certainty.

Citizen has always used unidirectional winding in its automatic movements, a concise, efficient set up that demands minimum space as it requires only one reverser wheel, compared to the two wheels of most bidirectional winding mechanisms (excepting the pawl-driven mechanisms like Seiko’s Magic Lever or IWC’s Pellaton).

The unidirectional winding mechanism is located to the left of the balance, sitting on the same plane as the going train

The details

Including the rotor, the movement is surprisingly tall at 5.0mm high, due in part to its robust construction. The height puts it in the ballpark of the workhorse Rolex movements, cals. 3125 and 3235, which are in the 6 mm range. By comparison, the ETA 2892 is 3.6 mm high.

That said, the Calibre 0200 watch itself is fairly thin at 10.9 mm high, with a case design that gives it a slimmer profile on the wrist. It’s thinner than the Rolex Datejust 41, for instance, which is a hair under 12 mm.

Notably, the movement can be converted into a slimmer, manual-wind calibre by removing the rotor and winding mechanism – Mr Tsuchiya said it is possible but there are no plans to do so for now – which would easily shave off a millimetre off its height.

More intriguingly, Mr Tsuchiya agreed that the cal. 0200 does have the technical potential to carry additional complications, though he did caution there are no immediate plans to do so. Stock images of the cal. 0200 base plate reveal it is a thick plate, which indicates additional complications could be incorporated under the dial without increasing its overall height significantly.

The cal. 0200 base plate. Photo – Citizen

As with most modern high-end movements, the balance wheel of the cal. 0200 is free sprung, instead of using a traditional regulator with two pins. A free-sprung balance offers better isochronism, maintaining its accuracy regardless of how much or little the balance wheel swings, while its factory regulation is also more resistant to shocks.

The balance was developed in-house by Citizen, and has four regulating weights on its rim – specifically, two pairs of two types of weights for different levels of regulation. Beyond its construction, the balance is impressive in its assembly and regulation. Each balance wheel is matched with a specific hairspring during assembly – done by a combination of electronic and manual evaluation – so each set of hairsprings and balance wheels have a unique pinning point. Typically found only on far pricier watches, this matching of balance wheel and hairspring is a “milestone” for Citizen, according to Mr Tsuchiya.

The free-sprung balance with two pairs of interia weights. The semicircle-shaped weights are for rough regulation, while the full circular weights finetunes the regulation. Photo – Citizen

The free-sprung balance, with four inertial weights for regulation

Also noteworthy is the escapement – the escape wheel and pallet fork – which are fabricated in a nickel alloy via a lithography process similar to LIGA. Essentially growing tiny, planar components via electroplating in a micro mould, the technique results in superior precision and tolerances, as well as finer control of the shape of the components, a vital advantage when it comes to fabricating the most delicate components in the gear train.

Though LIGA is well known in Swiss watchmaking, these components are made in Japan. Both the escape wheel and pallet fork resemble conventional, solid components, instead of being skeletonised as all Swiss-made LIGA escapement parts are. According to Mr Tsuchiya, this was done for purely aesthetic reasons as the development team desired the traditional look of solid escapement parts.

The escape wheel and pallet lever, both made via LIGA. Photo – Citizen

The movement beats at a typical 4 Hz, or 28,800 beats per hour, the norm in modern watchmaking. Since the dial of the Caliber 0200 watch has a subsidiary seconds instead of a central seconds hand, a higher beat for smoother seconds hand motion isn’t necessary, so 4 Hz was no doubt a purely technical choice for chronometric performance.

An optimal number that’s a good tradeoff between high and low frequency, 4 Hz is high enough that it remains stable in the face of shocks on the wrist, but low enough to avoid to unnecessary wear and tear along with a reduction of the power reserve.

The cal. 0200 has a power reserve of 60 hours – good enough, but a longer reserve of 70 hours, or three days, would have been stellar.

Finishing

While the movement is intrinsically Japanese, its finishing was aided by La Joux-Perret, the Swiss movement maker best known for its chronographs that Citizen acquired in 2012. Citizen is clearly proud of the aesthetics of the cal. 0200; it’s clearly visible through the sapphire back, in contrast to rivals that prefer a solid back on comparable watches. And for good reason – the cal. 0200 finishing is exceptional in its price segment.

As with most sports watches, the movement is presented in suitably restrained manner: a monochromatic, rhodium-plated finish, with a little colour from the jewels, gears, and balance wheel. It’s a handsome, contemporary aesthetic that’s characterised by bridges that are predominantly straight grained instead of being decorated with Cotes de Geneve.

Though seemingly elementary, the brushed finish on the bridges is hard to do as well as it is done here. The brushed finish results in a uniformly neat finish, meeting the sharp, diamond-cut bevelling at a perfectly defined edge. And despite being done by machine, the grain of the brushing is fine and lustrous, giving the bridges the sheen of a far more expensive movement.

The prominent, diamond-cut bevelling of the bridges brings to mind the movements of H. Moser & Cie., though it is now increasingly found in more affordable watches, including the various Grand Seiko Spring Drive calibres, Panerai’s in-house movements, and the recent cal. 3861 in the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch.

But Citizen takes the finishing to a higher, impressive level. The icing on the cake are deep, polished countersinks for the jewel bearings that complements the bridge bevels – an additional effort which is also made possible thanks to the relatively thick bridges. This is a detail often overlooked by other brands, which leads to jarring countersinks with rough surfaces that stand out in stark contrast against the cleanly finished outer bevels and surface finishing of the bridges.

The polished jewel countersinks that reflect light from different angles, highlighting the large jewel bearings used in the movement

Another finer detail worth savouring are the size of the jewel bearings. Larger than normal, the jewels were most likely sized as such for aesthetics; they provide a good colour contrast against the silvery bridges, while also making the polished countersinks more prominent.

The movement’s appearance could be further enhanced with even wider countersinks that match the width of the bridge bevelling, though that really is nitpicking. Similarly, the screws sit in shallower countersinks, but are themselves impressively finished, with bevelled slots and rims, as well as mirror polished tops.

A selection of screws used in the cal. 0200, all having chamfered slots and edges, as well as mirror polished heads. Photo – Citizen

On a related note, one subtle detail to be appreciated are the steady pins, also known as locating pins, which help to precisely position the bridges on the main plate. The tips of a few steady pins are visible on the bridges, revealing domed ends that are highly polished – a level of refinement reminiscent of higher-end watchmaking.

All of the markings on the bridges are machined in a wide and clean manner with no visible burrs, though they blend into the bridges at a distance. While the tone-on-tone finish is no doubt intentional, a gilded finish for the lettering would have created greater contrast, while also highlighting the neat engraving.

The various finishing methods applied to the Cal 0200

Despite the excellent finish overall, there are a handful of components that can be done better, though that is paradoxically a consequence of how well everything else is decorated.

For instance, the raised borders of the rotor have rounded corners are incongruous against the sharply defined bevels of the bridges underneath. The relief lettering on the rotor is stamped, so it is not as well defined as the text on the bridges.

That said, the rotor is an alloy similar to tungsten, which makes it twice as hard as brass, which implies that a similar level of finishing would be impractical. The most obvious alternative would be a gold or platinum rotor, which is asking too much considering what the Caliber 0200 costs.

The rotor is stamped and its top surface being straight-grained while the outer rim has a sun-ray finish

Also, the barrel’s ratchet wheel has a workmanlike, industrial finish similar to that of other mainstream movements. It’s finished with radial brushing that has a pronounced grain, while its teeth have no clear finish. The finish of the ratchet wheel contrasts starkly against the finishing of the barrel bridge. In fact, the mirror-finished bevels of the bridge are so perfectly done they reflect the teeth of the ratchet wheel with no distortion.

The ratchet wheel is industrially finished, but admire the reflection of its teeth against the bevelling of the bridge

The steel plate for the hairspring stud holder also appears plain against the rest of the movement. Its form does not integrate with the rest of the movement, and it has a simple, flat polished finish. While functional, a more elegant design would have elevated the consistency of the movement’s aesthetic.

Nevertheless, these are overcritical observations which felt necessary, as the Cal 0200 is otherwise a masterclass of a well-executed movement, with a no-nonsense geartrain and exemplary finishing for its price point.

The steel clamp for the hairspring stud holder

Concluding thoughts

There is a lot to like about the Caliber 0200 wristwatch and the cal. 0200 movement, because they both have been carefully executed to a very, very high standard in both construction and finish.

Citizen does strong competition in this price segment, including with fellow Japanese brand, Grand Seiko. While its rival does enjoy a better-established international profile, Citizen now has the Caliber 0200, which is a truly exceptional product, especially for US$6,000.

It is still too early to tell if the Caliber 0200 will be a commercial success, but it will no doubt be a hit with serious-minded watch enthusiasts who appreciate its details and quality, which are already obvious in the prototype, and will surely be refined in the production watches.

A Swedish watchmaker founded by knife maker Johan Gustafsson and watchmaker Patrik Sjögren, Gustafsson & Sjögren (GoS) is best known for incorporating pattern-welded steel, better known as Damascus steel, in its watches. But GoS also frequently works with fellow watchmakers and artisans, à la MB&F but at a more affordable level. Its latest watch is a five-way collaboration that combines traditional guilloche, generous Super-Luminova, and hand-made glass: the Norrsken, Swedish for northern lights, the seasonal light display seen over the North Pole.

Initial thoughts

The Norrsken is a departure from mainstream watchmaking, but even stands out against the increasingly crowded independent watchmaking scene. It is made up of familiar elements, like the guilloche dial and Black Badger “lume”, but of high quality and combined in an interesting, novel manner.

Produced by a well-known guilloche specialist, the dial is artisanal but excellent. Similarly, the case also looks to be just as well-executed, with the bezel available in either polished or Damascus steel; though the latter makes the most sense given GoS’ speciality. And the movement comes from Schwarz Etienne (a brand that has enjoyed greater success with its movements in watches other than its own), but equipped with a micro-rotor crafted from Damascus steel.

The green Damascus steel dial, seen here in a prototype

And the Norrsken lives up to its name, managing to evoke northern lights, or aurora borealis, in its colours and textures. If there’s a criticism to be made, that would be the size. The case is a bit under 42 mm wide and slightly over 12 mm high. It is not extraordinary large by modern standards, but the chunkiness of the case will probably take away from the refined quality of the dial.

Altogether, the Norrsken is a sharply-executed watch that’s intriguing both inside and out. Though it costs a sizeable US$19,500, it is comparatively good value given the craftsmanship involved in all of its components.

A collaborative effort

The guilloche dial is engine turned the old-fashioned way – on a rose engine – by Jochen Benzinger, a veteran guilloche specialist. Located in Pforzheim, the traditional home of German jewellery, Mr Benzinger’s work is notably refined, and can be found in watches from the likes of Habring2, Andersen Geneve, and Christiaan van der Klaauw.

The green dial is eminently striking and evocative of the swirling colours in the northern lights. The watch can also be had with a similarly arresting dial made of green Damascus steel, but the guilloche dial is probably the better choice given its quality and impressive detail – amply illustrated by the fluid and seamless convergence of the pattern at six o’clock.

The dial features GoS’ trademark triskele logo as the seconds hand, while the case band is fluted for a more intricate profile

Interestingly, sitting above the dial is a chapter ring made of glass by Mikael Kenlind, a Swedish glass artisan who makes traditional glass objects under the brand Vas Vitreum. The glass ring is held in place by 12 pins – double up as hour markers – that also act as shock absorbers.

The ring also contains the Super-Luminova insert made by James Thompson, whose firm Black Badger is a specialist in glow-in-the-dark materials. An artisan who works closely with the makers of Super-Luminova, RC Tritec, Mr Thompson created an insert of Badgerite, a proprietary Super-Luminva infused resin, that sits behind the glass chapter ring. The result is “floating lume” which illuminates the entire dial in the dark.

The Norrsken is powered by the GoS003, essentially a modified Schwarz Etienne ASE 200.00 that has a handy 86 hours of power reserve. Though GoS does not substantially modify the movement, it is customised with a Damascus steel micro rotor.

The Norrsken case is available in conventional steel, as well as white or black Damascus steel, and precious metal versions are possible upon request.

The movement in the prototype – production watches will have fined gold-filled engraving and better finishing on the bridge bevels

Key Facts and Price

GoS Norrsken

Diameter: 41.5 mm
Thickness: 12.1 mm
Material: Steel, or Damascus steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. GoS003
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 86 hours

Strap: Salmon leather, with Damascus steel buckle

Limited edition: 50 pieces
Availability: From GoS
Price: US$19,500 to US$24,500, depending on materials

For more, visit Goswatches.com.

Correction March 20, 2021: Mr Benzinger has not worked with Kudoke, in contrast to what was stated in an earlier version of the article.

Best known for affordable complications, Frederique Constant’s recent watches include a flyback chronograph for US$4,000 and a perpetual calendar for a bit under US$10,000. But the brand has also applied modern technology to its watchmaking with its analog smartwatches.

The brand’s latest offering is cutting-edge horology, but in a mechanical movement. The Slimline Monolithic Manufacture is equipped with an automatic movement that runs at 40 Hz, or 288,000 beats per hour (bph), thanks to a compliant-mechanism silicon oscillator instead of a balance wheel.

Initial thoughts

It’s a pleasant surprise to see Frederique Constant delving into advanced horological solutions with its silicon compliant mechanism and entering a space often associated with pricier brands like Ulysse Nardin and Zenith. Even more impressive is the fact that the movement is not just as a concept, but a commercially available watch that will be in stores in fall of this year and priced relatively affordably, starting at €4,495, or about US$5,300, in steel.

The advanced movement leaves the design of the Monolithic Manufacture incongruous with its classical styling and a truly modern oscillator. However, as such watches go, the design is not the point – it is all about the novel escapement that will certainly pique the interest of technical-minded enthusiasts.

Hi-tech collab

The high-frequency silicon oscillator was born of a collaboration with Flexous, a startup focused on compliant mechanisms for horology that’s backed by YES!Delft, a Dutch tech incubator. Flexous developed a compact, compliant-mechanism silicon oscillator for Frederique Constant, which installed it in a movement that is decidedly traditional, combining old and new ideas in a nearly seamless manner.

“Monolithic” refers to the one-piece construction of the silicon oscillator, which is also a compliant mechanism. Compliant mechanisms are single-part constructions designed to bend or flex – without joints or pivots – greatly reducing the part count of otherwise complex mechanical systems.

In the Slimline Monolithic, the silicon oscillator reduces the number of parts from 26 in a conventional Swiss lever escapement to just three. The balance wheel, hairspring, pallet fork and even jewel bearings in a traditional escapement have been integrated into a single silicon disc shaped like a butterfly. Two opposing inertial weights are mounted near the edges of the disc for regulation, making it similar in principle to a free-sprung balance wheel.

As a small and light component that vibrates at a tiny amplitude of six degrees, the silicon disc beats at a remarkably high frequency of 80 times a second, or 40 Hz – ten times the frequency of a conventional mechanical movement that runs at 4 Hz. Because of the high frequency, the escape wheel has to rotate similarly quickly, which is why it’s also made of silicon, a lightweight material that has lower inertia than traditional metal alloys.

The ultra-high frequency theoretically provides better timekeeping as the oscillator is impervious to external disturbances like shocks while on the wrist. And silicon itself is resistant to changes in temperature, making the oscillator stable regardless of the environment. Frederique Constant claims the movement’s accuracy being within COSC standards, running within -4 to +6 seconds per day.

Furthermore, silicon is antimagnetic, making the oscillator and escapement resistant to magnetism, which will otherwise influence the timekeeping of escapements made with conventional materials.

The high-frequency oscillator also results in the extremely smooth motion of the seconds hand, giving it a fluid, gliding sweep that’s reminiscent of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive (which runs at an even higher frequency due to its quartz integrated circuit).

Oscillator aside, the Monolithic Manufacture is driven by an otherwise standard automatic movement featuring a central seconds and date, save for the addition of a “fifth wheel” in the going train to speed up the escape wheel. Despite the high frequency of the oscillator, the movement still boasts an impressive 80 hours of power reserve, largely due to the lightness and high efficiency of the silicon components.

The cal. FC-810 exploded

A classical aesthetic

Save for the modern escapement, the rest of the watch has a classical, Breguet-style aesthetic that’s typical of Frederique Constant – a stamped guilloche dial with Roman numerals and pomme hands. The dial reveals the escapement with the “open-heart” aperture at six o’clock that’s balanced by a date sub-dial at 12.

Three variants will be available:  steel with either a silver or blued dial in a limited edition of 810 pieces each, or in 18k rose gold with silver dial and limited to 81 pieces.

Key facts and price

Frederique Constant Monolithic Slimline Manufacture
Ref. FC-810MC3S9 (rose gold, silver dial)
Ref. FC-810MCN3S6 (steel, blue dial)
Ref. FC-810MC3S6 (steel, silver dial)

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Steel or 18k rose gold
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. FC-810
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 288,000 beats per hour (40 Hz)
Power reserve: 80 hours

Strap: Alligator strap with folding buckle

Limited edition:
Steel – 810 pieces
Rose gold – 81 pieces
Availability: Fall 2021 at retailers
Price:
Steel – €4,495
Rose gold – €14,995

For more, visit frederiqueconstant.com.

Update March 27, 2021: Added a statement that the oscillator and escape wheels are antimagnetic, as they are made of silicon.

A watch that combines the famous octagonal case with an innovative movement, the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked is unquestionably the most technically interesting time-only Audemars Piguet (AP) Royal Oak. And then there’s this bejewelled version that’s certainly a lot more extravagant, but at the same time shows off the details and finishing of the movement better.

Initial thoughts

This watch is the ultimate black-tie watch – time-only and eminently classical in size at just 37 mm. In fact, it’s quite a bit smaller than the 41 mm standard model, making it a discreet fit under a cuff that will probably be secured by diamond-set cufflinks. It’s also dressed up with a glossy crocodile strap and a lot of generously sized, baguette-cut diamonds – a technically-inclined watch that takes its bling seriously.

But this is not just another octagonal watch with diamonds. The movement relies on a novel technical concept for better timekeeping, but its technical merits are usually overlooked because it is installed inside a “hot” watch.

And this particular version of the movement is more attractively executed here than on the standard models. Because movement here is plated in silvery rhodium – no doubt to match the dazzling whiteness of the diamonds – it’s more appealing than on the non-jewelled versions that have a dark grey ruthenium finish that’s almost black. While the finishing of the two is essentially identical, the dark finish obscures much of the movement’s details, while this has a bright finish that reveals the finishing well.

One of the adjustable mass balance wheels

Double balance

The cal. 3132 takes a maximalist approach to chronometry with two hairsprings, each with its own balance wheel. It’s essentially a skeletonised version of the workhorse cal. 3120, with the addition of the twin balance wheels.

A conventional flat hairspring is pinned at its two ends, meaning that the coils of the spring expand and contract slightly off centre. When the movement is vertical, the problem is exacerbated due to gravity, which pulls the hairspring downwards and even more off centre.

One solution is the overcoil, which loops the hairspring back upon itself such that both ends are pinned at almost the same spot. Another solution is the double hairspring, where the pair mirror each other’s motion, each “breathing” inversely to its twin, averaging out the errors of each. H. Moser & Cie. uses the double hairspring regularly in its higher-end movements, while Montblanc has experimented with double cylindrical hairsprings.

AP’s elevates the concept with twin balance wheels – one for each hairspring. Though each balance is conventional, weighing the same as the standard balance, there are now two of them, which means the cumulative mass is double. This essentially doubles the inertia of the regulator, resulting in more stable timekeeping, even in the face of shocks that disturb the balances.

The second balance wheel that’s visible from the back

But the added weight means more energy is required to keep the watch running, which is why the power reserve drops, from 60 hours in the standard cal. 3120 with a single balance wheel, to 45 hours here. Though it’s a decline of a third, 45 hours is sufficient.

The solid gold full bridge for the balance on the dial

Ruthenium and gold

To make sure the upgrade is prominent, the balances are secured on both sides by a pair of solid red-gold bridges. This is exactly as it’s done on the standard model, but I would have preferred white gold bridges for the balance on this watch, which would better suit the colours of the diamonds and movement.

The movement is identical to that on the standard model, which means excellent. But the bevels and graining are more apparent here, because of the light colours of the finish. That’s true on both the front and the back.

Maybe because the watch is relatively small compared to the typical Royal Oak, the flange for the minute track and hours is sloped, while the hour markers are inclined even more steeply. That creates a bit of an amphitheatre effect that frames the movement well.

The skeletonisation is clean in style, with the bridges rhodium-plated, brushed on the top, and outlined by wide, polished bevels

Because of the intricacy of the open-working, the bridges incorporate several sharp, inward angles within the bevelled edges. Not all of the inward angles are sharp corners, but there are enough to illustrate the quality of finishing.

The bridge for the automatic winding wheels has eight sharp inward corners on its bevelling, despite its size

White gold and diamonds

The case is 18k white gold, and set with baguette-cut diamonds on the front of both the case and bezel, as well as the crown. It’s just 37 mm, but it looks and feels lightly larger than it is.

The case does, however, feel a bit tall relative to the diameter. That is due in part to the thickness of the movement, but also the slightly higher bezel that is necessary in order to accommodate the diamonds.

At first glance, the case looks naked because the sides are not set with diamonds. But that actually makes sense, just because this is a Royal Oak. Leaving some metal visible means a key characteristic of the Royal Oak is visible, which is the impressive case finishing. Here the brushed case flanks sit beside the polished bevels on the edge of the case, with a sharply defined border between the two.

Concluding thoughts

The diamond-set Double Balance Wheel is a watch for an occasion. Best described as extravagant-black tie, it is bold, but also elegant. And the movement is technically credible, making it a serious watch with a high dose of bling.

Key facts and price

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked
Ref. 15469BC.ZZ.D001CR.01

Diameter: 37 mm
Material: 18k white gold set with diamonds
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 3132
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Crocodile with folding clasp

Limited Edition: No, but limited production 
Availability: Only at boutiques
Price: On request

For more information, visit audemarspiguet.com.

Auricoste was founded in 1854 to make marine chronometers, but is best known for the Type 20 chronographs supplied to the French military in the 1950s. The brand was one of a handful that produced watches according to the “Type 20” military specification for flyback chronographs, alongside Dodane, Vixa, and most famously, Breguet. Now Auricoste has revived the military chronograph with help from vintage watch expert Fabrice Gueroux as the Flymaster Type 20.

Initial thoughts

Auricoste is historically significant, as far as military chronographs go – the vintage-original Type 20 is a valuable watch – though it has fallen off the radar of most watch enthusiasts today. With the Flymaster Type 20, Auricoste is playing to its strengths.

The Flymaster Type 20 should appeal to those looking for a military-inspired pilot’s chronograph. As it is made by one of the original manufacturers of Type 20 watches, the Flymaster Type 20 has added historical provenance as compared to comparably priced alternatives that share a similar aesthetic. And at 3,450 €, or about US$4,100, the watch is significantly more affordable than Breguet’s Type 20, or even Zenith’s Pilot Type 20 watches. It is also a limited edition of 299 pieces, which makes its value proposition even more attractive.

Faithful re-issue

Auricoste and Mr Gueroux took pains to ensure that the Flymaster Type 20 retains much of the vintage original’s DNA. The Flymaster is almost a dead ringer for the original, with the key differences being the automatic Dubois Depraz 42101 movement – leading to a larger case – and the 12-hour or elapsed-time bezel instead of a fluted bezel.

For one, the watch utilises hesalite crystal, instead of sapphire as is the norm on modern watches. The dial is near identical as well, though the positions of the sub-dials have been inverted due to the change in movement. And as is fashionable with remakes, the indices and hands are filled with ivory Super-Luminova to mimic the look of radium.

Perhaps most important is the fact that the Flymaster Type 20 has a smallish, 39.5 mm case, allowing the remake to come very close to the 38 mm of the original. But it is substantially thicker than the original, something that’s only evident in the case profile.

But the watch is modern in several tangible ways. The most obvious being the bezel, which has a glossy finish as a result of being coated in diamond-like carbon (DLC) to boost its scratch resistance.

The Flymaster is powered by the Dubois-Depraz 42021. More accurately, it’s an ETA 2892 with a Dubois-Depraz module on top, creating an automatic movement with a flyback chronograph that has a power reserve of 42 hours.

Key facts and price

Diameter: 39.5 mm
Material: Steel
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Dubois-Depraz 42021
Functions: Hours, minutes, and flyback chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours

Limited edition: 299 pieces
Availability: Direct from Auricoste
Price: €3,450

For more, visit Auricoste.fr.

While blue has been the fad for watches for some time, green is recently in vogue, if for no other reason than the endless stream of blue-dial watches. And so the pioneer of the sports-luxury watch has just launched five different Royal Oak models with dials in deep green – the first, but likely not the last, brand to do so this year.

The new offerings are actually a trio of three distinct models, with the simplest – and probably the most appealing – being the classic Royal Oak “Jumbo” with a smoked, sunburst green dial that’s exclusive to AP Houses. In contrast, the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph in yellow gold, and the Royal Oak Self-winding Tourbillon (in three variants), all feature the familiar tapisserie guilloche.

The platinum Jumbo, accompanied by a pair of Flying Tourbillons

Initial thoughts

The Royal Oak is the luxury sports watch, and it’s one of today’s hottest watches – in practically every variation. When it comes to insatiable demand, even the most minor of variations will be desirable. So the new green dials will certainly amplify the clamour – because the colour is attractive, deep and lustrous – but also because the colour is unusual for the Royal Oak.

It’s almost amusing to see the brand’s skill in iterating a 40-year old design by drawing on colours, finishes, and complications to make the Royal Oak attractive in myriad ways. That, of course, builds on a recipe that’s both intrinsically appealing and versatile – the Royal Oak is simply a distinctive, good looking watch. The Royal Oak Chronograph, for instance, is attractive in yellow gold and dark green, a slightly retro combination that looks very luxe.

One could argue that the Royal Oak has been iterated too many times, and there are way too many versions of it. But the Royal Oak remains a bestseller decades on, so the reality is there’s probably not enough of it, at least for now.

Chronograph

Yellow gold is relatively uncommon now, as most watchmakers prefer the more fashionable pink gold. Audemars Piguet is among the handful of high-end watchmakers that still uses the alloy, albeit occasionally, having launched an entire line of Royal Oak Chronographs in yellow gold five years ago.

That said, save for the new dial, the rest of the watch is essentially a stock Royal Oak Chronograph – meaning it is big, shiny, finely finished, and expensive looking – but this is perhaps the most striking version to date.

The chronograph is powered by the cal. 2385, which is a Frederic Piguet cal. 1185. A thin and compact movement, the cal. 1185 has been the movement of choice for the Royal Oak Chronograph for some two decades, although odds are it will eventually be replaced by the in-house movement now found in the Code 11.59.

Flying Tourbillon

Launched in three versions, the new Royal Oak Tourbillon is most striking in its titanium version lavishly set with baguette-cut emeralds, giving it a bezel and dial that echo each other. That said, the other two versions are just as good looking, and infinitely more wearable for the average person.

Unlike the chronograph, the Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon has a newer and more sophisticated movement. Launched two years ago, the cal. 2950 was first seen in the Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon with aventurine-glass dial.

It not only has a longer power reserve of 60 hours, but also beautifully designed, as evidenced by the grande sonnerie-style winding click visible above the axis of the rotor.

Key facts and price

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm
Ref. 26331BA.OO.1220BA.02

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 11 mm
Material: 18 yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 2385
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: Yellow gold bracelet

Limited Edition: 150 pieces
Availability: Only at boutiques
Price: US$74,800; or 103,900 Singapore dollars

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 41 mm
Ref. 26534TI.OO.1220TI.01 (titanium)
Ref. 26532IC.EE.1220TI.01 (titanium with white gold bezel set with emerald)
Ref. 26533OR.OO.1220OR.01 (pink gold)

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 10.4 mm
Material: Titanium or 18 pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 2950
Functions: Hours, minutes, and tourbillon regulator
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Matching metal bracelet

Limited Edition:
Titanium – 50 pieces
Titanium with emerald – 15 pieces
Pink Gold – 10 pieces
Availability: Only at boutiques
Price:
Titanium –CHF139,100
Titanium with emeralds  –  CHF273,000
Pink gold – CHF170,000

Prices exclude taxes 

For more information, visit audemarspiguet.com.

Inspired by a mid-century gentleman’s watches, the Trésor is a newish sub-collection of Omega’s longstanding De Ville line. Just announced alongside the new Seamaster 300, the latest addition to the range is the De Ville Trésor Small Seconds, the most pared-back version to date. Also new is the slightly more complicated, but equally elegant, De Ville Trésor Power Reserve.

Tresor Small Seconds (left) in Sedna gold, and Tresor Power Reserve in yellow gold

Initial thoughts

The new Trésor is unique in Omega’s catalogue for its movement and dial. It’s one of the very few Omega watches without a rotor, with the other more famous model that’s also hand wind being the Speedmaster Moonwatch. The manual-wind movement is apt, feeling at home on a dress watch and well suited for its vintage-inspired style of the Trésor.

The cal. 8927 in the Small Seconds

The new models illustrate the improving design of the Trésor line up, at least for watch enthusiasts who appreciate traditional design. The model range started with a format familiar for Omega – centre seconds and the date at six – but the new Trésor is focused, with all superfluous functions removed. Also gone is the patterned dial, giving the watch a cleaner appearance. With its simpler aesthetic, the new models gain a stronger identity, differentiating the Trésor from the rest of the catalogue, and even its fellow De Ville watches.

Though the new design is progress, it’s still not perfect, yet. The design and construction are somewhat bland. The indices, for example, are simple batons that lack the interesting details found in vintage models. No doubt the dial appeals to minimalists, but more flair in the design, done subtly of course, would make the watch more interesting.

The price starts from US$16,900 for the Small Seconds, and rises to US$17,500 for the Power Reserve. That’s within the ballpark for similar watches from the likes of Jaeger-LeCoultre, but it is still expensive, especially for Omega, which still does best with more affordable watches.

However, compared to its competitors, Omega wins in terms of technology, and consequently timekeeping stability and magnetic resistance, as both models are outfitted with Co-Axial Master Chronometer movements. That said, Omega will soon introduce steel versions that cost half as much, so stay tuned.

Small Seconds

Unlike a centre seconds, the small seconds immediately gives away the size of the movement relative to the case. In this instance, the cal. 8927 appears to fit the 40 mm case reasonably well – though not as perfectly as on most vintage watches – as the seconds sub-dial doesn’t sit too close to the centre.

Red-on-red was used for the Tresor 125th anniversary edition, but that was fired enamel; here it’s simply lacquer

The case takes on a simple form that’s polished all around, a simple but effective finish for this style of watch. The polished finish gives the watch a more formal look and highlights the curves of the case, but is not overwhelmingly shiny as the case is only 10.07 mm thick.

Power Reserve

Identical to the Small Seconds but with a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, sitting directly above the barrel, this is the more interesting version of the pair. The two sub-dials are symmetrical, giving the dial the look of a regulator display. As a result, the Omega logo is moved from 12 to three, balancing the lettering at nine o’clock.

Key facts and price

Omega De Ville Trésor Small Seconds
Ref. 453.53.40.21.11.002

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 10.07 mm
Material: 18k Sedna gold
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 8927
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Hand-wind
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Leather strap with pin buckle

Availability: Starting September 2021 at Omega boutiques and retailers
Price: US$16,900, or 24,150 Singapore dollars

Omega De Ville Trésor Power Reserve
Ref. 453.53.40.22.02.001

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 10.07 mm
Material: 18k yellow gold
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 8935
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and power reserve indicator
Winding: Hand-wind
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Leather strap with pin buckle

Availability: Starting September 2021 at Omega boutiques and retailers
Price: US$17,500, or 25,000 Singapore dollars

For more, visit omegawatches.com.

A startup that “specialises in creating innovative and exclusive art objects”, Kross Studio made its debut with the Batmobile clock, and has now turned to an even grander piece of pop culture for its first wristwatch. Modelled on the planetary genocide engine from Star Wars, the Death Star Tourbillon has a skeletonised globe on the dial that’s actually the cage of its central tourbillon.

Created in collaboration with Lucasfilm, the Disney subsidiary that owns the movie franchise, the watch is actually part of the Death Star Ultimate Collector Set that includes a kyber crystal prop from Rogue One: A Star Wars Story, the 2016 film about the conception (and sabotage) of the original Death Star. Together, the two are very much something for the diehard Star Wars fan who happens to like watches.

If Kross Studio’ quirky tilt towards pop culture feels similar, that’s because several of its founders are alumni of RJ-Romain Jerome, the defunct brand known for its Hello Kitty and Pokemon watches, including Marco Tedeschi, who was RJ’s chief executive prior to its demise, and Sergio Silva, the former head Romain Jerome’s manufacture.

And the Romain Jerome connection is integral to the watch as well. Specifically, the idea for the central-tourbillon movement was actually conceived by Mr Tedeschi while he was studying micro-technical engineering at the École Technique de la Vallée de Joux (ETVJ). He later refined the idea and patented it in 2006. And in 2019, Mr Tedeschi realised the idea with the Romain Jerome Spider-Man Tourbillon, but the brand went bust before the watch entered production. Now an improved version of the same idea is the centrepiece of the Death Star Tourbillon.

Initial thoughts

Though high-end Star Wars watches have been done in the past, the Death Star Tourbillon is by far the most complicated to date. Despite its fictional inspiration, the watch is very much serious horology.

Developed in-house by Kross Studio, the movement is surprisingly evocative of Star Wars. The dome-shaped tourbillon cage is instantly recognisable as the Death Star. Combined with a litany of Star Wars-inspired elements, the Death Star Tourbillon is a sharply-executed tribute to the films that will no doubt appeal to Star Wars fans, while having enough horological content to please a technically-minded watch enthusiast.

But it is an expensive watch, with a hefty US$150,000 price tag – its main sticking point. While that’s within the ballpark for an unusual tourbillon, it’s a big ask for a newish brand.

Death Star

The central tourbillon has a large, domed cage designed to mimic the northern hemisphere of the Death Star, right down to the kyber crystal-powered laser cannon capable of destroying an entire planet.

In addition, the hour hand of the watch is shaped like an Imperial-Class Star Destroyer – the quintessential vehicle for the Empire’s projection of power – while the minute hand is modelled on a Super Star Destroyer, one of which was Darth Vader’s flagship. The hour ring features Super-Luminova that glows a bright blue – reminiscent of the control panels in Imperial spaceships.

The titanium case is a large 45 mm, and covered with black diamond-like carbon (DLC) coating. A recessed button on the case – engraved with “Time set” and “Push to release” in the fictional Aurebesh script from the film – releases the D-ring crown that’s embedded in the case back, allowing for winding and setting via the ring.

Inside is the MKS-7000, a manual-winding movement that boasts five days of power reserve, as well as the central tourbillon.

The Death Star Ultimate Collector Set also includes a kyber crystal prop from Rogue One: A Stars Wars Story. Both the watch and crystal are packaged in a tube that replicates the kyber crystal containers seen in the films.

The kyber crystal prop

The watch box shaped like a kyber crystal container

Key facts and price

Kross Studio Death Star Tourbillon Watch
Ref. SWDST21

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: 20 mm including domed crystal, 12.5 mm without
Material: Black-coated titanium
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. MKS-7000
Functions: Hours, minutes, and central tourbillon
Winding: Manually-wound
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 5 days

Strap: Three straps of grey calfskin, black rubber, as well as red rubber

Limited edition: 10 pieces
Availability: Direct from Kross Studio
Price: US$150,000

For more, visit Kross-studio.ch.