With design elements inspired by vintage pocket watches, the red gold Arnold & Son TES Tourbillon has an open-worked movement featuring a sapphire barrel bridge and guilloche base plate, along with a three day power reserve.

A resurrected name from 18th century English watchmaking, Arnold & Son looks to English pocket watches of the past for the new TES Tourbillon. The triangular cocks for the tourbillon and third wheel are shaped like those on old pocket watches while the base plate is decorated with guilloche reminiscent of pocket watch cases. And the barrel bridge is in sapphire with an open-worked barrel, showing the mainspring below. Unusually the winding wheel of the barrel features wolf’s teeth, an anachronistic but attractive feature rarely found on modern movements.

Note the wolf’s teeth on the wheel at the very top

The movement layout reveals most of the winding mechanism, gear train and tourbillon regulator. Featuring a dark grey NAC coating on the base plate and contrasting rose gold plating on the bridges, the movement is in-house, made exclusively for Arnold & Son by La Joux-Perret, its sister company, both of which are owned by Citizen Corp. It is hand-wound with a longish power reserve of 80 hours, or about three days.

The TES Tourbillon is limited to 28 pieces a 44 mm red gold case, and will retail for 139,000 Swiss francs, equivalent to about US$156,000.

Though Kari Voutilainen had made several minute repeaters using vintage ebauches earlier in his career, it was the Observatoire that made the Finn famous, even bringing about favourable comparisons with Philippe Dufour’s Simplicity. Originally conceived as a series or six or 12 timepieces, the Observatoire eventually ended its run with some 50 produced.

In our archive we discovered photos of one particular watch from the series, a unique piece in rose gold with a copper dial and a hand-engraved movement, made for Singapore retailer The Hour Glass back in 2009.  Though almost every Observatoire made was a unique piece, mostly due to minor variations like colour and font, this particular watch has “Unique Piece” engraved on the case back, which makes it, well, unique, since the others are not so engraved.

The movement started out as a Peseux 260 ebauche (a movement blank missing several key parts), a remarkably high quality movement made in the fifties and sixties for the chronometer contests conducted by the Geneva and Neuchâtel observatories. It never made it to large scale production, and remained relatively obscure, until Voutilainen created the Observatoire.

Every Observatoire used the same Peseux base, but with significantly different styles of decoration. In this unique piece the bridges and even the base plate are engraved with a floral motif. The rest of the movement is finished to a high standard, including polished teeth on the ratchet wheels of the barrel, and black polished caps on the escape wheel and balance cocks.

This Observatoire is similar in style to the rest of the series, with the teardrop lugs that are now a signature of Voutilainen’s work. The dial is guilloche with different engine turning on the chapter ring and inner section, while the substantial Breguet hands are solid gold with blued steel rings.

In 2011 the Observatoire was replaced by the Vingt-8, featuring Voutilainen’s own calibre 28.

Gervasi & C. is a precision engineering workshop located in Florence that manufactures specialised components for various industries, including bronze watch cases for Anonimo.

Florence has a long tradition of metal and iron-working, and craftsmanship in general, that still endures today with outfits like Gervasi & C. Located in the town of Incisa in Val d’Arno, a small town south of Florence, Gervasi & C. sits in a quiet industrial area, one of several such small, specialised enterprises in the district. A mechanical and precision engineering workshop, Gervasi & Co. makes precision components out of metals like steel and titanium, as well as marine bronze. Founded and run by namesake founder Gianluca Gervasi, the company makes watch cases for Italian watchmaker Anonimo in several alloys, including marine bronze. Bronze, or rather specific bronze alloys with a high aluminium content, have long been used in naval architecture due to its resistance to corrosion in seawater. Marine bronze is used to make ship propellors, and also watch cases. 

Gianluca Gervasi

First used by Chronoswiss and Gerald Genta in the eighties, bronze is now found in watches from several brands, including Anonimo and most famously, Panerai. Both brands share a common Florentine history, for Anonimo was founded on the premises and equipment left behind when Panerai moved to Switzerland after it was acquired by the Richemont Group. And in a curious repeat of history, Anonimo upped sticks to Switzerland in 2013, though its watch cases are still made in Italy.

The Anonimo Militare Alpini in bronze

An eclectic array of machinery is used to fabricate the components Gervasi & C. produces, ranging from decades-old manual equipment to modern, multi-axis computer numerical control (CNC) machines.

Watch cases are comprised of three main parts – bezel, case middle and back. All three have to fit together perfectly with no margin for error, in order to ensure watertightness.  These parts all begin the same way, long rods of bronze, which are then feed into a CNC milling machine via a rotary bar feeder. The CNC machine basically drills out the form of the case part, removing it from the end of the road.

Milling is done in several steps by various CNC machines, in progressively smaller tolerances, to achieve the detail required for a watch case. By the final stage of milling the case tolerances are in the microns.

Notably Gervasi & C. only makes cases via milling, instead of the more basic method of stamping. Milling takes a longer time as it can produce far more complex shapes and details. 

Bezels in bronze

Steel case middles

Shavings left behind from milling

After each case component has been milled, it is carefully checked to ensure it meets the required tolerances. And after that is done, the case is put together and subject to water-resistance testing.

An optical comparator, essentially a microscope that checks the shape of the part against a template

A micrometer to check the height of a part

Once the cases are found to meet the necessary tolerances, they are then completed with varying types of surface finishing, typically either brushed or mirror polish. And then they are packed off to Switzerland for assembly. 

_____________________

Earlier this year Urwerk unveiled the UR-105M, the successor to the landmark watch that put Urwerk on the horological map. Featuring the signature satellite disc display, the UR-105M adds a new case construction and additional features like cylindrical constant seconds to the brand’s entry-level timepiece.

Back in 2003 the then obscure duo behind Urwerk, Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei, introduced the watch that made the brand famous, the UR-103. Though it featured a wandering hours type time display that had used before, even in pocket watches, the 103 was strikingly different because of its avant-garde case and form. The 103 immediately made Urwerk one of the pioneers of avant-garde independent watchmaker. And now the 103’s successor has arrived, in the form of the UR-105M. Visually the UR-105M is a major departure from its predecessor. The shape of the case is angular and aggressive, echoing the styling of the top of the line UR-210. The construction of the case, however, is similar to that of the UR-110, comprising a front plate secured to a titanium case via six bolts.

Shown here with a steel front plate is the UR-105M “Iron Knight”; the model is also available with a AlTiN coated front plate as the “Dark Knight”. Thick, with well defined and bevelled edges, the front plate adds presence and heft to the watch. Notably, the bevels are not polished as is convention, instead have a brushed finish, which suits the overall aesthetic.

The UR-105M keeps the wandering hours display first used on the 103, but with a large sapphire crystal revealing most of it. However, the satellite discs are mostly hidden beneath a large canopy in black polyether ether ketone (PEEK), a lightweight, corrosion resistant plastic. Many would prefer the satellite display to be revealed in its full glory; it would not be surprising if that happened somewhere down the line.

Though the time display is similar, the manual-wind movement has added features, namely a constant seconds and power reserve display on the side of the case. 

And the case back has the control board found on all Urwerk watches. This has a power reserve display (identical to the one on the case side), an service indicator to point out when an overhaul is due, plus a timing screw to adjust the rate of the watch.  Beneath the complex mechanism for the time display and added functions, the base movement is the robust and reliable Peseux 7001, just like in the 103. It is manually-wound, with an enormous and beautifully machined crown for winding.

Being the entry-level Urwerk model, the UR-105M retails for about half the UR-210. The steel “Iron Knight” costs 57,000 Swiss francs (~US$64,600), while the AlTiN “Dark Knight” is 62,000 Swiss francs (~US$70,300).

A faithful remake of the Geophysic chronometer made for adventurers and explorers in the 1950s, the Geophysic 1958 sticks to the formula Jaeger-LeCoultre knows well: a moderately priced, vintage-style wristwatch powered by an in-house, self-winding movement.

In its price segment, Jaeger-LeCoultre has arguably been the most adept and competent at creating remakes of its vintage timepieces, with the Reverso 1931 being the best example of this success. The latest vintage reissue wristwatch from Jaeger-LeCoultre is the Geophysic 1958, based on a fifties chronometer originally created for the International Geophysical Year (IGY). A manual-wind chronometer with magnetic shield for the movement, the first Geophysic was intended for the explorers and scientists involved in the expeditions of the IGY. Looking much like the vintage original, the modern Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic 1958 looks and feels like an authentic replica of the first Geophysic. The new Geophysic is 38.5 mm in diameter, larger than the 35 mm of its namesake, but medium sized by today’s standards. The Geophysic 1958 has all the conveniences of a modern timepiece: a scratch resistant sapphire crystal, an automatic movement and 100 m water resistance. And like the original, the movement of the Geophysic 1958 is also protected from magnetic fields.

The modern Geophysic at left, with its vintage cousin

Underneath the solid case back is the calibre 898/1. It’s in-house, well constructed and nicely decorated, as Jaeger-LeCoultre movements are, but nothing novel or outstanding. A soft iron cage surrounds the movement to insulate it from magnetism.

Though not technically outstanding, the Geophysic 1958 has some attractive aesthetic features. The dials are finished with a grained, eggshell texture, with complements the ivory Luminova. And the baton indices are slightly faceted lengthwise, an appealing details that gives the dial a sense of refinement. 

An interesting detail are the luminous dots on the dial chapter ring, one of the key differences from the original, which had luminous dots on the crystal (which were often lost when the crystal was replaced).

The Geophysic 1958 has a case with a form similar to the original, a simple shape free of clutter. It has a polished finish on the bezel and top of the lugs, while the flanks are brushed, with a polished bevel in between on the lugs.

Three versions of the Geophysic 1958 are available: steel, pink gold and platinum. Both the steel and pink gold models have the same “crosshair” dial, while the platinum model has a cleaner dial. Interestingly, the crosshair dials are much less common amongst the vintage models.

The steel model is limited to 800 pieces with a retail price of US$9800 or 12,800 Singapore dollars.

In pink gold the Geophysic 1958 is limited to 300 pieces and will sell for US$20,800 or 27,500 Singapore dollars.

And in platinum it will be a whopping US$32,000 or 42,600 Singapore dollars. Only 58 will be made in platinum.

Delivery of the Geophysic is expected in October. The steel and pink gold versions will be available from authorised retailers, while the platinum edition will only be sold at Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques. 

“The Face of Time”, an exhibition of Panerai’s contemporary watches and in-house movements, has just opened in Singapore at the ION Orchard mall. Open to the public, the exhibition runs till 1 July 2014.

Dedicated to the current Panerai line-up of watches, “The Face of Time” is a compact exhibition that illustrates all of Panerai’s case styles, namely the Radiomir, Radiomir 1940 and Luminor. And there is an emphasis on its in-house movements, unsurprising since Panerai is increasingly relying on proprietary movements, even for its entry-level models like those equipped with the P.5000 calibre.  In addition, a watchmaker is on hand to demonstrate movement assembly. And there is also a display explaining in detail the process of manufacturing a ceramic watch case. And just a few steps from the exhibition is the only Panerai boutique in Singapore, which has most of the collection on display including new models launched at SIHH 2014.

Open to the public, the exhibition runs daily from 10:30 am to 9:00 pm in the atrium of ION Orchard in Singapore. Its last day will be on 1 July 2014.

In a surprise revival of a classic, perhaps in response to plodding sales of the oversized Deep Sea, the Sea-Dweller returned to the Rolex catalogue at Baselworld 2014. The new Sea-Dweller 4000 (Ref. 116600) is essentially a Rolex classic rejuvenated. Looking much like the models that came before, the new Sea-Dweller is rated to the same 4000 ft or 1220 m as tradition dictates. But the 2014 model is equipped with all the features that have become standard on all Rolex timepieces in the six years since the last Sea-Dweller was discontinued, like a ceramic bezel insert and Glidelock clasp. So despite being much the same, it is a better watch.

At 40 mm wide, the Sea-Dweller is the same diameter as many generations of Rolex sports watches. But it has the wider and thicker lugs found on the current Submariners and GMT-Masters. The case is large, solid and finished to a high degree. A helium escape valve is in the traditional nine o’clock position in the case.

Made of ceramic with platinum coated numerals and markings, the bezel insert is a glossy black. Notably, it has minute markings all round the bezel, like the Deep Sea and vintage Milsubs. Sitting just a bit above the bezel is the sapphire crystal, making prone to chips on the edge, a perennial problem with Rolex sapphire crystals.

Glossy and black with multiple lines of superfluous and oddly quaint writing, the dial is typical Rolex style. Like all current Rolex watches the dial flange, commonly known as the rehaut, is engraved with repeated “ROLEX”.

Another feature standard in Rolex sports models found here is the the Glidelock clasp on the bracelet, which is adjustable in 2 mm increments up to 20 mm, plus a Fliplock diver’s extension to fit over a wetsuit. Inside is the calibre 3135 automatic, the Rolex workhorse used in its men’s watches.

Though it does not have the new Syloxi silicon hairspring yet, the blue Parachrom balance spring is paramagnetic and shock resistant. Though not neither novel nor groundbreaking, the new Sea-Dweller offers a little bit more than a Submariner, but not as much as the clunky Deep Sea.

Appropriately, the Sea-Dweller 4000 retails for US$10,400, 9900 Swiss francs or 13,560 Singapore dollars. That’s approximately 15% less than the Deep Sea and 20% more the Submariner date, which is fair enough.

To mark the 45th anniversary of the Apollo 11 mission that landed the first man on the moon, Omega introduced the first ever Speedmaster Moon Watch in titanium, with rose gold accents and an unusual laser etched PVD dial.

45 years after the Apollo 11 spaceflight that landed Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin – with Speedmasters on their wrists – on the Moon in 1969, Omega has created a titanium Speedmaster Professional Moon Watch for the mission’s 45th anniversary. Having marked practically every Moon landing-related anniversary since 1969 with a limited edition watch, Omega has a difficult task in making the next Moon Watch edition significant different. Surprisingly enough, the Speedmaster Apollo 11 45th Anniversary is enjoyably different.  The Apollo 11 edition has all the design elements of the classic Moon Watch. The materials used, however, are distinctly modern. To start with, the case is titanium, the first time the alloy has been used for a Moon Watch. That aside, it is identical to the traditional Moon Watch, with a 42 mm diameter and the signature lyre lugs.

Matte black ceramic is used for the tachymetre insert on the bezel, which is made of Sedna gold, a red gold alloy proprietary to Omega that does not fade with time.  What is most unusual about this watch, however, is the dial. The brass dial blank is first laser etched to create markings and text in relief, then sandblasted to create a grained texture, before being finished with a dark grey PVD coating.  Meant to evoke the surface of the Moon, the dial finish changes colour depending on the light and angle, ranging from grey to brown. But the colour also makes the chronograph sub-dials almost impossible to read.

All the hands and indices are also in red Sedna gold; the indices are wedge-shaped and faceted, making them very legible. Inside is the Omega calibre 861, the same Lemania calibre that has been inside every Moon Watch save for the very first models. It is hidden underneath a titanium case back engraved with the usual Moon Watch related text.

This is also the first Speedmaster to be delivered on a NATO-style canvas strap, in a brown-grey to match the dial.

The Apollo 11 45th Anniversary is limited to 1969 pieces with a retail price of US$7700 or 9950 Singapore dollars.

Vacheron Constantin has just unveiled four limited edition timepieces to mark the opening of its first boutique in Moscow, located at Berlin House. All are in white gold or platinum, ranging from the time-only Traditionnelle Moscow Boutique to the unique Calibre 2253.

In contrast to the regular production versions which typically have light coloured dials, these Moscow Boutique editions have black or dark grey dials. And they are further distinguished  by a pair of white gold cufflinks with a finish that matches the dial that accompanies each watch.

The top of the line model in the Moscow Boutique series is the Traditionnelle Calibre 2253, featuring a tourbillon, perpetual calendar, equation of time display and also the sunrise and sunset times for Moscow. Limited to just one piece, this has a 44 mm platinum case and a black opaline dial. Like all the other watches in the series, this is delivered with a pair of white gold cufflinks with onyx inserts to match the dial.

Limited to 30 pieces, the Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Moscow Boutique has a 41 mm white gold case with a black dial. Inside is the self-winding calibre 1120, based on the highly regarded ultra-thin movement first developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Similar in style is the Patrimony retrograde day-date Moscow Boutique, also in white gold with a black opaline dial. This, however, is limited to only 20 pieces. Inside is the in-house calibre 2460 automatic.

And the simplest timepiece of the series is notable for being the most different from the rest of the series. Also in white gold, the Traditionnelle Moscow Boutique has a dark grey dial decorated with guilloche inspired by the facade of the Kremlin. The accompanying cufflinks have a similarly decorated slate-coloured insert. This is limited to 30 pieces. The movement is the same calibre 1120 found in the Moscow Boutique perpetual calendar.

Pricing for each Moscow Boutique edition will be similar to the regular production versions of each model.

A truly international creation, the Tokkotai is crowdsourced wristwatch. A replica of a Second World War Japanese air force pilot’s watch, the Tokkotai project started on a Spanish watch forum, produced by a Polish firm, and sold to a global group of enthusiasts.

Proyecto Tokkotai began in March 2013 with the participants of Club Okies, a Spanish language watch forum, not unlike the Nautilus over at Czech forum Chronomag. The goal of Project Tokkotai was to make a replica the oversized wristwatch worn by Japanese navy pilots of Second World War.  A remarkably affordable timepiece, Project Tokkotai reached fruition within a year, demonstrating what can be achieved with a little imagination and much enthusiastic collaboration.  Unlike most modern reissue timepieces which are based on well known timepieces, the Tokkotai project chose to recreate a little known military timepiece. Made by Seikosha, as Seiko was then known, this timepiece has a somewhat controversial history. It was worn by Kamikaze pilots of the Japanese Imperial Navy during the Second World War; Tokkotai is the abbreviation of the unit’s official name, Tokubetsu Kōgekitai.

The Tokkotai project was the brainchild of five participants of Club Okies, who helped create and refine the design, based closely on the original. Polish watchmaker G. Gerlach was chosen to manufacture the Tokkotai.

Based in Szczecin, a port city in Western Poland, G. Gerlach is a small enterprise named after a nineteenth century Polish industrialist. Priced very affordably, Gerlach timepieces are made in Poland, with Seagull or Seiko mechanical movements. 

The Tokkotai uses the Seiko NH35 calibre, identical to the 4R35 movement found in entry-level Seiko watches. Smaller than the World War 2 original at 43 mm, the sandblasted steel case is nonetheless sizeable. And its sapphire crystal has an anti-reflective coating. The case back features the chrysanthemum symbol of the Japanese Imperial Navy.

Thanks to the efforts of Jose, one of the five people behind the project who goes by the name Dague on Club Okies, the Tokkotai project had an international audience. Dague made announcements on several English language web forums, and the Tokkotai was eventually delivered to nearly a dozen countries. This international demand was the reason behind the increase in the edition size of the Tokkotai from the original 100 to 150 pieces.

Packaged in a wooden box styled like an ammunition crate, the Tokkotai was delivered on a leather strap as well as a spare canvas NATO band.

The Club Okies Tokkotai was offered for just €295 or US$380, paid in three instalments. It sold out quickly and most have been delivered. More information can be found on the Club Okies Proyecto Tokkotai forum.

Photos courtesy Dague