Having signed on as a sponsor of America’s Cup contender Alinghi last year, Tudor now reveals a pair of watches created especially for the sailing team. The Pelagos FXD “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition” and Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition” both feature a carbon composite case – a first for Tudor – along with the functional design derived from the military-issue FXD dive watch.

Initial thoughts

I’m a fan of Tudor – its products are amongst the best value propositions across the entire industry – but its offerings have historically been limited in terms of design. In recent years the brand has gotten bolder in both styling and materials – the new pair demonstrate this. And if anything, they are probably the first of many more adventurous products from Tudor, something that is a natural evolution of the brand given the capacity of its big new manufacture.

Although both stick to the design established by the original Pelagos FXD, they make it more interesting in terms of colour and a lot more interesting in terms of materials with the carbon composite case. The use of the lightweight composite will give both of them a featherweight presence on the wrist, despite the large case diameters of each.

Despite the novelty in terms of materials, the new Pelagos FXD models remain squarely in Tudor’s favourite price segment. The time-only FXD costs a bit under US$3,700 while the chronograph is a little over US$5,000, making both strong value propositions.

The chronograph in particular is a good buy considering the excellent movement and carbon composite case, typically features found in watches that cost at least twice as much.

Lightweight and functional

Ironically established in a country with no actual coastline, Alinghi nonetheless managed to win the America’s Cup twice, in 2003 and 2007. The team, founded by pharmaceuticals billionaire Ernesto Bertarelli, was disbanded in 2010 but revived in 2021 as Alinghi Red Bull Racing to compete in the 37th America’s Cup, with Tudor as one of its lead sponsors.

Given Tudor’s focus on dive watches – the brand’s bestseller is the Black Bay in fact – the tie-up with Alinghi is a logical one that will arguably have wider appeal than the military provenance of the original Pelagos FXD. Unsurprisingly, both Alinghi FXD watches are regular production models.

Both Alinghi watches retain the design of the military version of the FXD, but are executed in different colours and materials. Both feature the team’s name prominently on the face, but positioned on the flange around the dial to make it less obtrusive.

The dials are a dark blue, matched with a red “Pelagos” on the dial as well as a red seconds hand. They are paired with a black ceramic insert on the titanium bezel, while the case middle is carbon-fibre composite. The screw-down case back, on the other hand, is steel.

The chronograph has a 43 mm case that stands 13.6 mm high, giving it proportions similar to other Tudor chronographs with the same movement, the MT5613. Derived from the Breitling 01 movement, the MT5613 has a sophisticated construction that includes a column wheel, vertical clutch, as well as a free-sprung balance.

The time-only Pelagos FXD is identical to the original FXD in terms of case dimensions and movement. The case is 42 mm and contains the in-house MT5602.

Both models are delivered on one-piece fabric straps with Velcro closures.

Key facts and price

Tudor Pelagos FXD “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition”
Ref. M25707KN-0001

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.75 mm
Material: Carbon composite case with case back in steel, bezel and crown in titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: MT5602
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Fabric strap with Velcro closure

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Tudor boutiques and retailers
Price: US$3,675; or 5,130 Singapore dollars

Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition”
Ref. 25807KN-0001

Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 13.6 mm
Material: Carbon composite case with case back in steel, bezel and crown in titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: MT5613
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and chronograph 
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Fabric strap with Velcro closure

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Tudor boutiques and retailers
Price: US$5,075; or 7,080 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Tudorwatch.com.

Continuing from the unique piece made for the previous edition of Only Watch, TAG Heuer again experiments with its racing model for the upcoming charity auction. The Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph for Only Watch is the brand’s first-ever mechanical split-seconds chronograph, and channels strong avant-garde styling.

Initial thoughts

Finally adding a mechanical split second chronograph to the brand’s capabilities is a significant step for a TAG Heuer, who stand on their history of producing sporting chronographs.

In contrast to the Monaco Carbon from 2021, the watch exhibits a significantly bolder aesthetic, aligning more closely with what one would expect from Richard Mille. However, unlike its counterpart, TAG Heuer’s approach to skeletonisation is tastefully restrained, focusing on a minimalist display rather than an overtly flashy appearance.

One potential drawback of this release is the auction estimate, which ranges from CHF150,000 to CHF300,000. The inclusion of the new calibre and the utilisation of premium materials can justify the higher price. However, it is worth noting that the price point is consistent with what last year’s model achieved, which was CHF290,000, despite only having an estimate of between CHF50,000 to CHF100,000. 

The winning bidder of this watch will also get a VIP experience of the Monaco Grand Prix next year, with access to the TAG Heuer hospitality suite, among other experiences over the weekend. 

Avant-garde design

Expertly merging avant-garde design with the complex split-seconds chronograph complication, this Monaco features an open worked dial with an anthracite finish achieved through sandblasting and vertical brushing. Positioned atop the movement’s bridges are the minute and hour registers of the chronograph, accentuated by red lacquered hands. At the six o’clock position is a silvered seconds sub-dial that is accompanied by a polished rhodium-plated hand.

It is housed in a square-shaped case that measures 41 mm in diameter and 15.2 mm high, which is 2 mm larger than the standard production model. The case is crafted out of crystallised titanium (officially referred to as “texturised titanium”), in which the material undergoes a controlled process which produces a crystallised effect on the surface and supposedly improves resistance to scratches. 

At its core lies the TH81-00 movement which is constructed entirely from titanium. This automatic calibre has been given an artisanal touch, showcasing a graté damier pattern executed by artisans from Artime and a hand-painted oscillating weight in a rainbow hue by dial artist André Martinez. 

The TH81-00

Conducted by Christie’s, Only Watch 2023 takes place on November 5, 2023 at Palexpo in Geneva.

Key facts and price

TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph for Only Watch
Ref. CBW2180.FC8321 

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 15.2 mm
Material: Crystallised titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: TH81-00
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph and rattrapante
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz)
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Calf leather with folding clasp

Limited edition: Piece unique
Availability: To be sold at Only Watch on November 5, 2023
Estimate: CHF150,000 – 300,000 

For more information, visit Onlywatch.com.

In 2017, the original Barbier-Mueller Mosaïque made its first public appearance at Only Watch. The collaborative efforts of longtime friends Stéphane Barbier-Mueller and François-Paul Journe, one being the preeminent independent watchmaker and the other a member of one of a Swiss real estate dynasty, this was an unexpected and rather pleasant surprise. Now, the pair have returned with the Mosaïque II, follow up to their initial offering, sticking to the same principles as before, but with the eye of watch designer Eric Giroud. 

Initial thoughts

Those who are fans of the original will be pleased to see all of the main traits have been carried over to this latest version. The stone work on the dial, case and hinged caseback is all there, and the two hander runs on the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain movement – in fact, it is essentially an elaborately inlaid Chronomètre Souverain. If anything, they have elevated their previous efforts by incorporating more types of semi-precious stones in order to execute Mr. Giroud’s design.

While Mr Giroud’s eye has given the Mosaïque II a different feel from its predecessor, the new watch still reflects Mr Barbier-Mueller’s interest in arts and culture, which was the basis for the original Mosaïque. Besides being a shareholder in F.P. Journe, Mr Barbier-Mueller is also a member of the family that established the Barbier-Mueller Museum in Geneva that’s famous for its world-class collection of tribal art.

The original Mosaïque next to the caseback of the new Mosaïque II.

The fact that this watch has been released is a pleasant enough surprise, but having the additional expertise of Eric Giroud on board adds another element to this incredibly intriguing watch. It will certainly be one that many are drawn to as we approach the auction in November and will certainly be receiving plenty more attention with an estimate of CHF165,000-275,000 sure to be surpassed. 

The return of the hinge 

After the initial release at Only Watch in 2017, the first Mosaïque saw a short run of just 10 pieces. Naturally, with the explosion in the F.P. Journe market, whenever they would appear for sale, it would cause a stir, sometimes dividing opinion, but always appreciated for their craftsmanship and rarity. 

Now we are being offered a new version of this collaborative effort with a 41 mm platinum case covered in a plethora of semi-precious stones including, white jade, blood jasper, nephrite jade, carnelian and opal. These have been arranged through champlevé to depict a lotus on the dial and hinged caseback.

The dial and case were produced by Les Cadraniers de Genève and Les Boîtiers de Genève, the case and dial makers controlled by F.P. Journe. The champlevé technique was employed to work the stones into place in a satisfying and cohesive way on the case and dial.

Each of these stones needs to be handled in a different way, given their individual properties, and so ensuring that they not only all fit into the design, but they come together to form one seamless image is all the more impressive. 

When the case back is opened up the F.P. Journe cal. 1304 in rose gold is revealed. This is the movement that can currently be found running the Chronomètre Souverain family, but with the small seconds and power reserve removed. The twin-barrels are wound manually and offer 56 hours of power reserve, this is also the only place you will find the F.P. Journe signature, as was the case on the first model. 

Whether this watch will be made into a short run like the original is yet to be announced. Given the originality and passion that is behind this piece, it is easy to imagine there being a willing market waiting for them if they do. 

Conducted by Christie’s, Only Watch 2023 takes place on November 5, 2023 at Palexpo in Geneva.

Key facts and price

Barbier-Mueller Mosaïque II

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 10.85 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: TBC

Movement: Cal. 1304
Functions: Hours, minutes
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)
Power reserve: 56 hours

Strap: Leather, clasp with ‘Sphynx’ engraved on pin 

Limited edition: Piece unique
Availability: To be sold at Only Watch on November 5, 2023
Estimate: CHF150,000-250,000 

For more information, visit Onlywatch.com.

The Chronomètre Bleu has taken on somewhat of a cult status among the followers of F.P. Journe. So much so that it has leaked out beyond the brand’s group of core supporters to become one of the most sought after watches on the primary and secondary market today. This year, for Only Watch, F.P. Journe has decided to revisit this popular design and reimagine it as the Chronomètre Bleu Furtif Bleu, which is also a debut for an entirely new calibre. 

Initial thoughts

While the Chronomètre Bleu is known for being popular among the wider watch community, F.P. Journe’s LineSport models still divide opinion, so combining the sport watch case with the eye-catching dial of the Chronomètre Bleu is a bold choice.

Of course, as with everything that F.P. Journe does it is never completely straight forward, the dial on the Furtif Bleu is not a copy of what you see in the Chronomètre Bleu, instead it is translucent enamel with the numbers laser engraved for a matte finish. The one fault I can see with the design of these numerals is the oddly small “6” so as to accommodate “émail”. This feels like it throws the balance off ever so slightly. 

The aim of this watch appears to be to make it hard to read, with the very name of it making reference to it being difficult to read unless the dial is directly facing you. While the romantic view of this being that it makes telling time an entirely personal activity, it could also just lead to difficulty whenever in low light settings.

The choice to construct the entire case and bracelet out of tantalum is a fantastic statement by the brand. The material is notoriously hard to work with and gives a distinctive feel when handled. Using this metal for a bracelet hasn’t been done since Audemars Piguet did in the 1990s with a few Royal Oaks (and those watches were always two-tone models of tantalum and another metal).

This watch will also be interesting for the technically-minded enthusiast. We don’t get many new calibres from F.P. Journe and this one certainly doesn’t disappoint. Evidently derived from the movement in the Chronometre Bleu (and Chronometre Souverain), this has clearly been designed for both form and function, with the power reserve and moon phase being placed at the top and bottom so as to keep the symmetry of this double-barrel movement. This new calibre shows clear signs of thought and effort in a time-only movement that could have the potential for much more. 

A new movement

The new hand wound cal. 1522 appears to be an exciting advancement for the brand and its features suggests that more could be built into it. Designed from the ground up, it will probably become a new base movement for an upcoming line of watches. It has twin barrels providing a power reserve of 56 hours, a power reserve and moon phase on the reverse, thus keeping the dial clear of clutter.

An interesting point of note for this new movement is that F.P. Journe has decided to, for the first time, include the seconds hand on the same pinion as the hour and minute hands. A development that is subtly surprising for followers of the brand, as it is the very first time the company has done a central seconds hand. 

Speaking of this seconds hand, it has been covered in a vibrant orange colour, providing a direct visual link to the previous unique pieces that F.P. Journe has made for Only Watch that have always combined the colours blue and orange, amongst the trademark shades of the event.

The dial, produced in translucent blue grand feu enamel, have the Arabic numerals laser etched on to the surface to give them a matte finish that contrasts with the glossy dial. The LineSport logo is placed just above six o’clock, with the dial completed by the inclusion of a minute track around the outside. 

The case and bracelet are entirely made from tantalum, a tough, bluish-grey metal that is hard to work with but is scratch and chip resistant, while also being dense enough it feels like a precious metal.

However, it should be noted that if the case and bracelet are at all damaged during the preview exhibitions that happen before the auction, the brand has promised to replace them with a brand new set once the final bid is cast. A nice additional touch given how heavy handed some prospective viewers can be. 

Conducted by Christie’s, Only Watch 2023 takes place on November 5, 2023 at Palexpo in Geneva.

Key facts and price

F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu
Ref. CFB 

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 9.5 mm
Material: Tantalum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Unavailable

Movement: Cal. 1522
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve and moon phase
Winding: Manual
Frequency: Unavailable
Power reserve: 56 hours

Strap: Tantalum flat-link bracelet

Limited edition: Piece unique
Availability: To be sold at Only Watch on November 5, 2023
Estimate: CHF220,000-440,000

For more information, visit Onlywatch.com.

Patek Philippe has a history at Only Watch of producing groundbreaking Grand Complications, displaying what it is capable of at the highest end of watchmaking. The table clock from 2021 or the Grandmaster Chime from 2019 both exemplify these virtues. And it would appear that it is going to continue down this road with this year’s instalment as it introduces a Grand Complication in tribute to Philippe Stern, Patek Phillippe Honorary President and father to the brand’s current President, Thierry Stern. 

Philippe Stern (left) and Thierry Stern (right).

While the details of this piece are currently lacking somewhat, the brand has announced that it has developed an entirely new movement for this watch and it features Philippe Stern’s favourite Grand Complication. 

This will not just be a one off either, the first one made will be of a unique design and auctioned at Only Watch, but after that Patek will go on to produce 30 more, in a strictly limited run, after which the movement will never be used again. 

This November Philippe Stern is set to turn 85, his son was quoted saying this about the upcoming watch, “this is a way of thanking him for everything he taught me and all the passion for excellence that he deployed in favour of Patek Philippe.”

There will be more details about this watch to follow, with the auction being conducted by Christie’s at Palexpo in Geneva on November 5. 

Audemars Piguet (AP) is taking part in Only Watch for the fourth time with the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked 41 mm “Only Watch”. In contrast to the low-key Royal Oak “Jumbo” made for the 2021 instalment of the charity auction, this year’s one-off creation is exceptionally striking in blue and white.

The latest Royal Oak “Only Watch” is based on the regular-production Royal Oak skeleton tourbillon but made unique with a white ceramic case and bracelet along with a movement featuring blued titanium bridges and plates.

The case and bracelet material is notably uncommon for AP. While the brand has a fair number of Royal Oak models in black ceramic, there are fewer in white ceramic. In fact, there is only one regular production model in white ceramic, the perpetual calendar. In the past, there were also a handful of Royal Oak Offshore models in white ceramic, including a chronograph and Diver.

According to AP, one of the notable features of the bracelet is not only the material, but also that fact that is secured with “invisible pins”. This presumably means the pins holding the bracelet together are concealed with ceramic caps.

The cal. 2972 inside is open worked in an angular, stylised manner that is very much AP’s house style. The bridges and base plate are blued titanium, while the bevels of the movement retain the natural grey colour of titanium for contrast, giving each of the bridges a pronounced outline.

The rotor is 22k gold but coated blue to match the rest of the movement

The Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked 41 mm “Only Watch” has an estimate of CHF300,000-350,000, but will no doubt sell for at least three times as much.

Only Watch 2023 takes place on November 5, 2023 at Palexpo in Geneva.

Foreshadowing a return of the famous “Big Block” chronograph from 1976, Tudor has unveiled the Prince Chronograph One for Only Watch 2023. Featuring a striking 18k yellow gold case and matching bracelet, the Prince Chronograph One debuts Tudor’s first-ever in-house chronograph movement, the MT59XX – making it the first and only Tudor watch sold publicly to contain a yet-to-be-released prototype movement.

Initial thoughts

The Prince Chronograph One is an interesting debut for Tudor in many ways. Not only is it an attractive and well-conceived watch in its own right, it’s likely a sign of things to come, particularly with regards to the all-new in-house movement.

Tudor’s prior Only Watch entries features unusual materials such as ceramic, bronze, and patinated steel; the Prince Chronograph One continues this trend. Tudor doesn’t often make watches in precious metals – the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18k is an exception – leaving that lane open for its sibling Rolex.

The 42 mm case and bracelet of this unique piece are crafted from 18k yellow gold, and the screw-down crown and pushers are particularly faithful to those of the original “Big Block” and its sibling, the Rolex Daytona 6263. And it shows remarkable attention to detail that Tudor opted to produce its adjustable T-Fit clasp in 18k yellow gold for this one-off piece.

The pairing of a yellow gold case with a black dial and bezel is also timely given the surging interest in the Rolex Daytona “Paul Newman John Player Special” which offered a similar look. Furthermore, the black lacquered dial has pleasing depth thanks to its recessed gold sub-dials.

Perhaps more important is the fact that Tudor’s previous Only Watch submissions have foreshadowed subsequent series production models. In 2015, the Black Bay One introduced the black and gilt colourway that subsequently found its way into the Black Bay Black, and later the crowd favourite Black Bay Fifty Eight. Similarly, the Black Bay Ceramic One preceded the introduction of the regular production Black Bay Ceramic. 

Based on this history, and given the fact that Tudor has introduced the Prince Chronograph One in conjunction with a new in-house chronograph calibre, it’s reasonable to assume that a regular production version of the watch will be introduced in short order. This is important as it will mark a major step forward for Tudor, as the MT59XX will presumably replace the Breitling-derived MT5813, bringing the brand closer to having all of its watches powered by in-house movements.

An in-house chronograph movement

From a technical standpoint, the most significant aspect of the Prince Chronograph One is the new, in-house MT59XX movement. The movement in the Prince Chronograph One is actually a prototype, and carries the serial number “0”.

The original “Big Block” was Tudor’s first automatic chronograph, but it was powered by the Valjoux 7750, so it makes sense to use this design to introduce the brand’s first in-house chronograph movement. Notably, the dial layout of the MT59XX, at least in this prototype form, has the registers at six, nine, and 12, exactly as in the Valjoux 7750.

The only other chronograph in Tudor’s current collection is the Black Bay Chronograph powered by the MT5813, which is based on the Breitling B01. In contrast, the MT59XX is a Tudor construction through a through.

While most of the important specs are identical between the two, the layout and construction are quite different. The MT59XX, for instance, has the column wheel located on the periphery of the movement, instead of closer to the centre. 

A history of low estimates

One thing that Tudor’s four previous Only Watch entries have in common is the fact that they have all sold for significant multiples of their high estimates.

In 2015, Black Bay One hammered for CHF375,000 against an estimate of just CHF4,500. Two years later, the Black Bay Bronze One sold for CHF350,000 against a high estimate of CHF5,500. In 2019 it was more of the same, with the Black Bay Ceramic One selling for CHF350,000 against a high estimate of just CHF5,500.

Things got even more out of hand in 2021, when the Black Bay GMT One sold for CHF650,000 Swiss francs, despite a high estimate of CHF8,000.

The Prince Chronograph One carries an estimate of CHF25,000-35,000, which is substantially higher than previous entries, though reasonable given the 18k yellow gold case and bracelet as well as prototype movement. But if history repeats itself, this estimate will prove to be laughably low. In fact, the Prince Chronograph One might be the first Tudor ever to break the million-franc mark at auction.

Conducted by Christie’s, Only Watch 2023 takes place on November 5, 2023 at Palexpo in Geneva.

Key facts and price

Tudor Prince Chronograph One
Ref. 9420/801

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 13.7 mm
Material: 18k yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: MT59XX (prototype)
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and chronograph
Frequency:  28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: 18k three-link yellow gold bracelet with “T-fit” clasp

Limited edition: Piece unique
Availability: To be sold at Only Watch on November 5, 2023
Estimate: CHF25,000-35,000

For more, visit onlywatch.com

One of the most anticipated creations by an independent watchmaker at Only Watch 2023 is the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique. Almost certainly amongst the most valuable watches in the sale, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA) is a time-only wristwatch in stainless steel containing a Faraday cage to protect the against magnetism. It is the third timepiece created by Rexhep Rexhepi, founder of Akrivia, for the biennial charity auction.

Though the specifics of the watch remain under wraps, a few facts have been revealed in the announcement. The dial will be “sector” or “scientific” style, while the case is stainless steel and made by the workshop of Jean-Pierre Hagmann.

Classically proportioned in the typical Rexhep Rexhepi style, the case measures 38 mm by 9.95 mm. Interestingly, the case features a double back comprised of an inner sapphire back and an outer back that can be unscrewed by the wearer.

And most importantly, the movement is a new construction. While the Chronomètre Contemporain I and Chronomètre Contemporain II that Rexhep Rexhepi created for past instalments of Only Watch were variants of standard models, the RRCA is equipped with a calibre developed from the ground up for the model.

The RRCCII calibre inside the timepiece made for Only Watch 2021

While I can’t say any more about the watch, I can state that the RRCA deftly combines historical inspiration drawn from the magnetism-resistant watches made by the great watchmakers of Geneva with the distinctive style of Rexhepi Rexhepi, particularly in the dial design and movement execution. The movement is instantly recognisable as a Rexhepi Rexhepi construction, while also being evidently an entirely new construction.

I expect that the appeal and tangible qualities of the watch will easily result in a hammer price of seven figures, compared to the estimate of CHF100,000-150,000.

In addition to the unique watch, the winning bidder will also receive a tour of Geneva’s Old Town followed by a lunch with Mr Rexhepi.

Conducted by Christie’s, Only Watch 2023 takes place on November 5, 2023 at Palexpo in Geneva.