Having recently reopened Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH), a “concept” store dedicated to independent brands, Singapore retailer Sincere commissioned limited editions from several watchmakers to mark the event, including the Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe in purple.

Following that, SHH has unveiled another finely decorated time-only wristwatch, the Laurent Ferrier Square Micro-Rotor SHH Edition. With Breguet numerals on the front and a natural escapement on the back, the SHH Edition is classical but given a contemporary aesthetic with a gradient mint green.

Initial thoughts

A store with 19 brands on its premises, SHH certainly has a diversity of watchmaking on offer. But amongst its most technically accomplished time-only watches are the creation of Laurent Ferrier.

Seemingly plain-vanilla on the front, the brand’s Micro-Rotor is tells a different story on the reverse. The movement revives Abraham-Louis Breguet’s escapement from two centuries ago, while the automatic winding mechanism is elaborately executed. It is a watch that is easily appreciated by collectors who appreciate history and chronometry.

Like most collaborative editions, the SHH edition retains the flavour of the original, but with enough tweaks that it appeals to the target audience, namely watch enthusiasts who like classical design.

While many of the dial details are familiar, they are combined in a coherent and restrained manner. The effect is subtle but significant. When I first encountered the watch, I found it appealing as a whole, well before I noticed the details.

And yes, it is green, but not trying too hard. Green dials are now common, but this is one of the more attractive offerings on the market.

Details

The SHH edition has a redesigned dial that’s a perfect match for the square case. Rather than the usual slim indices that are typical of Laurent Ferrier, the SHH edition features a “sector” style dial with Breguet numerals at the quarters. The hands have been enlarged and filled with luminescent paint, improving legibility while contributing to the overall appeal.

The green dial is paired with serious watchmaking. Developed by La Fabrique du Temps, the complication specialist now owned by Louis Vuitton, the FBN 229.01 has an escapement similar to Breguet’s original invention but made reliable thanks to modern technology, in the form of a silicon detent.

Equipped with twin escape wheels, the natural escapement combines the best of lever and detent escapements, namely the self-starting capability of the former and the low-friction operation of the later.

The FBN 229.01 is high quality in both construction and finishing, featuring bridges finished by hand that incorporate sharp angles along the bevelled edges.

Key facts and price

Laurent Ferrier Square Micro-Rotor SHH Edition
Ref. LCF0013.t1.vwg

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 11.1 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: HFBN 229.01
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Khaki velvet alligator strap with pin buckle

Limited edition: 5 pieces
Availability: Only at Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH)
Price: 87,830 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Laurentferrier.ch.

In a long anticipated move, the organisers of Watches & Wonders – now the world’s most important luxury-watch fair – have just revealed the 2023 exhibition will be open to the public on its final two days. The event takes place in Geneva from March 27 to April 2, 2023, so the public days will be on the first two days of April.

Simultaneously, the organisers also debuted the Watches & Wonders Geneva Foundation (WWGF). According to the announcement, the decision to create the foundation was taken by Rolex, Richemont, and Patek Philippe.

Both the public days and WWGF are evidence that the Geneva giants, Rolex and Patek Philippe, now have a lead role in the city’s major watch fair. Historically that position was occupied by Richemont, the luxury group that owns a stable of brands ranging from Cartier to IWC.

New titles for Messrs Dufour and Perrin

The WWGF will “organise… watch and jewellery exhibitions, in Geneva and beyond… and define the major strategic areas of this ambitious project.” Most notable is the fact the the WWGF will be chaired by Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour, while its deputy chairman is Emmanuel Perrin, head of Richemont’s watch division.

Though unstated, it is implied that the WWGF succeed the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), which was long the organiser of SIHH and also of this year’s W&W. Though technically independent, the FHH was regarded by the industry as being dominated by Richemont.

Anyone can now walk the hallowed halls

Accessibility

Since the first Watches & Wonders (W&W) in Switzerland was announced two years ago, there was speculation that tensions existed between the organising brands, with disagreements between them on several subjects.

In terms of visitors, there were two different camps according to senior executives at several participating brands.

On one side was Richemont, historically the dominant group at SIHH, the watch fair that was the predecessor of W&W, Richemont was keen to continue the SIHH tradition of exclusivity. That would mean only members of the trade and important clientele would be allowed in, while also limiting the exhibitors to those considered luxury or high-end brands.

The contrary view came from Rolex and some of the other brands that were originally exhibitors at Baselworld, the now-defunct watch fair that was once the world’s largest. These brands sought to recreate some of the all-encompassing accessibility of Baselworld, which at its peak had thousands of watch and jewellery exhibitors and visitor numbers in the six figures.

With the recent announcement, accessibility has won the day. The number of exhibitors now total almost 50, up by about a quarter from this year’s event. And of course the public will be able to admire the new launches, albeit through glass.

Though visitors without invitations will have to pay CHF70 for a ticket to W&W, the cost is not too far from that of a Baselworld ticket. The first five days of W&W, however, will only be opens to the press, retailers, and important clients of the participating brands.

Undoubtedly the most unusual wristwatch from A. Lange & Söhne – and perhaps the brand’s most intriguing – the Zeitwerk is digital but entirely mechanical. Thirteen years after the first model made its debut and became a landmark in modern watchmaking, Lange has just unveiled the all-new, second-generation Zeitwerk.

Gently redesigned but substantially improved, the second-generation model brings the total number of Zeitwerk models to ten (totalling 17 references) from 2009 to now. What follows is a look at every single Zeitwerk reference, including rarely-seen limited editions and a little-known unique piece (save for the unique example never publicly announced by Lange). It’s intended to be be a clear and concise guide covering every single model, one that details the varied functions, decoration, and changes across variants.

The latest-generation Zeitwerk movement, still recognisable thanks to the remontoir bridge

A brief history

Before we dive into the watches, it’s important to understand how the Zeitwerk came along and its significance in modern watchmaking.

Like much else created by Lange, the Zeitwerk has its roots in historical watchmaking in Saxony. The Zeitwerk’s digital display takes its cues from the five-minute clock sitting over the stage in the Dresden’s Semper Opera.

And like much else in historical Saxon watchmaking, the clock is related to A. Lange & Söhne. The clock maker behind the opera timekeeper, Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes, was the father-in-law of Ferdinand-Adolph Lange, the titular “A. Lange” who founded his firm in 1845.

The five-minute clock in the Semper Opera. Image – Lange

The impetus for the digital wristwatch, however, came from Gunter Blümlein, the key man behind the revival of Lange in 1990. According to Anthony de Haas, now Lange’s Product Development Director, the late Blümlein sketched a digital Lange wristwatch in 2001, shortly before he passed away.

Development of the idea started in 2004 when Mr de Haas joined the company. Over the following five years, the design underwent multiple iterations – some far removed from the original concept – before culminating in the now-classic Zeitwerk dial. For the full story behind the genesis of the Zeitwerk, revisit our 2018 story.

Early concepts for the Lange digital watch

Significance

Even now, two decades since Blümlein penned the concept, the Zeitwerk remains something of a unicorn, a feat considering digital displays are not a modern invention. In fact, they can be found in pocket watches from the 19th century. What sets the Zeitwerk apart?

The most obvious is the horizontal display of the digital hours and minutes – arranged from left to right like how time is read – whereas historical digital displays were laid out vertically as a matter of mechanical convenience.

Even in modern-day watchmaking, the Zeitwerk is one of the only three watches with horizontal hours and minutes – and likely the only one that functions reliably. The other two are the De Grisogono Meccanico dG from 2008 and the François Quentin 4N from 2010.

And when pitted against digital watches from F.P. Journe or Harry Winston’s Opus, the Zeitwerk is arguably more accomplished in technical terms, simply because it boasts superior robustness and reliability.

The comparison against the likes of F.P. Journe is also instructive because it reveals that Lange is an establishment brand with an independent spirit. It’s the only mainstream brand, one owned by luxury group by less, that has a watch as exotic as the Zeitwerk in the catalogue. Other comparable watches are the products of niche or independent watchmakers.

The second-generation Zeitwerk in pink gold

Technically-minded enthusiasts will realise the secret to the Zeitwerk’s digital display is the constant-force mechanism, also known as a remontoir, that drives the large and heavy discs. Centred on a tiny spring that stores and instantaneously releases energy every minute, the remontoir is what makes the Zeitwerk possible.

The reason for that is simply energy consumption. A conventional gear train has insufficient torque to drive the discs without affecting timekeeping, while a separate mainspring would be too much, both in terms of power and size.

That left the remontoir as the most elegant solution, and also one that already existed when the Zeitwerk was in development. The mechanism was borrowed from the Lange 31, which required a remontoir for the opposite purpose. While in a Zeitwerk the remontoir rations out the limited energy in the mainspring, in the Lange 31 the constant-force mechanism was needed to moderate the power of the monstrous mainspring with a 31-day power reserve.

The Lange 31 with its enormous mainspring that is wound by a key that goes into the socket on the case back; and the remontoir is visible just next to the balance wheel

Overview

Launched in May 2009, the Zeitwerk collection totals to 17 references over 13 years, a small number considering its status as an iconic watch of the brand. Most of the references are due to the addition of striking complications. As a result there are essentially five variations based on function: time-only, date, hour striker, decimal striker, and minute repeater.

The five function groups of the Zeitwerk (clockwise from top-left): time only, date, decimal striker, minute repeater, hour striker

Despite the varied complications, the Zeitwerk collection is powered by only two distinct movement generations. Amongst the key differences between the two is power reserve, 36 hours for the first and 72 for the second.

In the current catalogue, the distinction is clear: all chiming Zeitwerk models are equipped with first-generation movement, while the non-chiming watches have been upgraded to sport the second-generation movement.

The second-generation movement (left) and first

The comparatively few variants of the Zeitwerk means it retains a strong, recognisable aesthetic that has varied little over the last decade. Indeed, there are only three dial types found on the Zeitwerk to date, namely conventional galvanic-coated silver, clear sapphire Luminous, and engraved Handwerkskunst.

Dial types (from left): silver, clear sapphire, and hand engraved

And in terms of case material, the Zeitwerk sticks to the usual options offered by Lange, namely the three colours of gold, platinum, as well the brand’s proprietary Honey Gold. That, of course, covers only the publicly known Zeitwerk iterations.

The Decimal Strike in Honey Gold

Unusually, the Zeitwerk line boasts a generous number of limited edition relative to the model variants. There have been seven limited edition Zeitwerks thus far, excluding the known unique piece, which add up to almost half the references ever produced.

Three of the limited editions have conventional silver dials, two are clear sapphire, and one is hand engraved. In terms of complications, four of the limited editions are time only, while the rest are chiming watches.

Notably, one of the limited editions, the Decimal Strike, was a one-off complication as its movement never made it into the regular catalogue.

The seven limited editions and the unique piece (bottom right corner)

May 2009 – the original

The original Zeitwerk was unveiled in May 2009 in three colours of gold plus platinum. That same year, the Zeitwerk took home the L’Aiguille d’Or, the top prize at the GPHG.

The references were 140.029 (white gold), 140.021 (yellow gold), 140.032 (rose gold) and 140.025 (platinum). All four references contained the L043.1 with a patented, one-minute constant-force mechanism and power reserve of 36 hours.

Clockwise from top left: platinum, yellow gold, white gold, and pink gold

The Zeitwerk case metal and dial combinations were similar to that of other Lange models, most notably the Lange 1. The yellow gold model was matched with a champagne dial, pink gold with silver, platinum with pale grey, while the white gold model had a black dial, the only one with a dark-coloured dial.

To match the case metal, the “wing” bridge for the time display was untreated German silver on the yellow gold and pink gold models, while on the white gold and platinum models the bridge was plated with rhodium to give it a silvery hue echoing the case.

The OG Zeitwerk in pink gold

The models were all regular production, save for the platinum model that was limited to 200 pieces. The yellow gold model was discontinued first in 2013, but the pink and white gold versions were in production until earlier this year.

Though four references were announced in 2009, the number of first-generation, time-only Zeitwerk models later increased to seven, when limited editions like the Luminous and Handwerkskunst were launched.

References: 140.029 (white gold), 140.021 (yellow gold), 140.032 (pink gold) and 140.025 (platinum)
Movement: L043.1
Limited edition: 200 pieces for the platinum version

November 2009 and January 2010 – the first “Lumen”

Shortly after the Zeitwerk was launched, Lange took the covers off a surprising iteration of the model: the Zeitwerk “Phantom” ref. 140.035 that was the first-ever “Lumen” edition. It was announced in late 2009 and then officially unveiled at SIHH the follow year.

For a limited edition variant to arrive just months after the original was unexpected – especially since the Luminous even more limited than the platinum edition and priced substantially higher – but the timing was perhaps intentional in order to cater the strong commercial success of the Zeitwerk. And remember the Financial Crisis ongoing at the time, which dimmed overall demand for the brand’s watches, meaning the Zeitwerk might have provided a much-needed boost.

Limited to 100 pieces, the Zeitwerk Luminous has a grey-tinted clear sapphire dial that reveals the extra-large discs beneath. Utterly unexpected from Lange, a brand better known at the time for studious formality, the Luminous is appealing not just because it is different but because the discs glow in the dark at night.

Notably, the “wing” bridge, along with the sub-dial for the seconds, are coated black, an unusual design feature in a Lange. Minor changes were made to the movement due to the see-through dial, resulting in a new movement known as L043.3, instead of the L043.1 found in the original.

The first of only two Zeitwerk Luminous editions, this special execution had a case of platinum, the metal of choice for most Lange limited editions at the time.

Reference: 140.035 (platinum)
Movement: L043.3
Limited edition: 100 pieces
Notable features: Tinted sapphire dial with luminous discs

January 2011 – the first complicated Zeitwerk

With the standard movement being L043.1 and the Luminous containing the L043.3, you might be wondering what happened in between the two calibres.

The answer arrived during SIHH 2011 when Lange unveiled the first complicated Zeitwerk, the Striking Time powered by the L043.2. Interestingly, the calibre number indicates the chiming Zeitwerk began before the Luminous model.

The Striking Time isn’t a minute repeater, but rather an hour striker. It chimes a single low note at the top of every hour as well as at the a singe high note at quarters. In other words, it indicates the passing of the time, instead of sounding out the time.

The Striking Time was the first and simplest of the three chiming Zeitwerk models to date, but it’s arguably important since it signalled the start of the Zeitwerk’s foray into complications.

Unlike preceding Zeitwerk models, the Striking Time has a larger case of 44.2 mm to accommodate the hammers and gongs visible on the dial. And the dial itself was tweaked to create recesses for the hammers and gongs.

The L043.2 movement

Two versions of the Striking Time were unveiled, first the the ref. 145.025 in platinum, which was limited to 100 pieces, and then the ref. 145.029 in white gold that is still in production today. Another version in rose gold was unveiled a few years later, resulting in three Striking Time references so far.

References: 145.025 (platinum) and 145.029 (white gold)
Movement: L043.2
Limited edition: 100 pieces for the platinum version

June 2011 – the unique piece

The first – and only publicly known – unique Zeitwerk arrived in June 2011 for a good cause. It was conceived to benefit a children’s charity in Singapore, Kidz Horizon Appeal.

The cost of the watch was borne by the family of the late Duncan Wang, an American entrepreneur who resided in Singapore. He passed away in 2009 and his family commissioned several one-off timepieces in the following years, all of which were sold at auction to benefit Kidz Horizon.

The unique Zeitwerk was sold  ]at the 2011 Kidz Horizon gala dinner to a Singapore businessman for 138,000 Singapore dollars (or about US$100,000 at the time), which was sold at about double the retail price of the standard white gold Zeitwerk then.

The 2011 project resulted in the one-off ref. 140.049 with white gold case and grey dial. But the changes went beyond the colour.

Other tweaks include the grey hours and minutes discs, making this one of the three Zeitwerk models (along with the two Luminous editions) that has dark-coloured discs instead of the usual white.

Additionally, a discreet “Made in Germany” was incorporated into the the seconds track at six o’clock, while on the standard Zeitwerk that is engraved on “wing” bridge. And the case back reflects the unique nature of the watch with its rim engraved with “1/1” and “SGP 2011”.

Reference: 140.049 (white gold)
Movement: L043.1
Limited edition: Unique piece

September 2012 – the first Handwerkskunst

After the Luminous and Kidz Horizon, the third very-special Zeitwerk arrived in 2012. All about artisanal craftsmanship, it was the Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst ref. 140.048. The extraordinary decoration, along with a surprise in the movement, meant the production of Handwerkskunst edition was difficult enough to limit the edition to just 30 pieces.

Like other Handwerkskunst watches, this Zeitwerk has its front and back adorned with traditional decorative techniques far more elaborate and nuanced than that found on the standard models.

The solid-gold dial, for example, is hand engraved with tiny dimples – the result of the careful removal of minuscule amounts of gold from the dial surface with a burin. At the same time, the markings on the movement bridges are engraved by hand instead of being done by machine.

Interestingly, the Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst was also equipped with a technical update. The escapement is no ordinary Swiss lever, but the long-forgotten Glashütte lever.

Lange managed to recover the know-how to fabricate this unusual escapement by tapping on a retired employee who was then already in her nineties. That explains why the movement is L043.4 instead of the L043.1 in the regular models.

Reference: 140.048 (platinum)
Movement: L043.4
Limited edition: 30 pieces
Notable feature: Hand-engraved decoration

January 2014 – a small update 

A new reference arrived two years after the Handwerkskunst, but it was only minor update to the styling of an existing model. Launched at SIHH 2014, the Zeitwerk Striking Time was identical to the 2011 model but in a different metal.

Retaining the 44.2 mm case, the new ref. 145.043 had a pink gold case and a silver dial. Following the design codes of the time-only Zeitwerk, the “wing” bridge on the pink gold Striking is untreated German silver.

Like the white gold version, this wasn’t a limited edition and is still in production today. It was also the last iteration of the Striking Time, which means it’s probably due for an update given that the L043.2 within is based on the first-generation calibre.

Reference: 145.043 (pink gold)
Movement: L043.2
Limited edition: No

January 2015 – the first minute repeater

Just a year later, Lange debuted a major new model, the second Zeitwerk with an additional complication.

At SIHH 2015, Lange unveiled the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater, a huge step up from the Striking Time in complexity but not in dimensions – the case of Minute Repeater is only 1 mm thicker than that of the Striking Time. That’s impressive considering meaning the minute repeating L043.5 has 771 parts, 243 parts more than the L043.2 in the Striking Time.

Unlike the Striking Time that indicates time is passing, the Minute Repeater tells the time acoustically. And unlike conventional repeaters, it strikes the time in a 10-minute segments instead of 15-minute segments. In other words, it’s a decimal repeater, making it more intuitive to comprehend when listening to the time.

That said, the Minute Repeater can be distinguished from its simpler brethren even without activating the chimes as the gongs on the dial are arranged differently.

On the Striking Time, the gongs trace the inner circumference of the case, while on the Minute Repeater the gongs follow the outline of the “wing” bridge on the the lower half of the dial.

As is typical for Lange , the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater made its debut in platinum as the ref. 147.025, but as a regular production model.

A limited edition reference of the same, however, was unveiled a few years later (more on that later).

Reference: 147.025 (platinum)
Movement: L043.5
Limited edition: No

2016 – a quiet upgrade

Lange didn’t launch any new Zeitwerk in 2016, but it did make important changes to the existing movement. In fact, according to Robert Hoffman, the head of the Zeitwerk department, Lange has redesigned about 80% of the minute display mechanism.

The mechanical upgrade is obvious to the wearer – the single-digit minutes disc no longer arms itself with a mini jump at the 55-second mark, but it instead jumps to the next digit seamlessly at the top of each minute.

Though a seemingly simple update, it required substantial revision of the movement, including an entirely new set of gears for the constant-force mechanism and minute display.

The original (left) and upgraded mechanism

January 2017 – the first (and possibly last) Decimal Strike

Two years after launching the Minute Repeater, Lange once again turned to the hour striker complication, but with a twist.

The Zeitwerk Decimal Strike ref. 143.050 has a slightly different movement that chimes more frequently. Instead of chiming at every quarter, the L043.7 inside rings every ten minutes.

Notably, the Decimal Strike also boasts other features that make it special. That includes a Honey Gold case that’s a shade between yellow and pink gold, as well as a Handwerkskunst-esque dial featuring tremblage engraving on the “wing” bridge, hammers and bridge for the hammers.

Limited to 100 pieces, the Decimal Strike was a one-off creation, because the movement was conceived specifically for this reference and never made it into regular production, at least for now.

Reference: 143.050 (honey gold)
Movement: L043.7
Limited edition: 100 pieces
Notable feature: Hand-engraved decoration

January 2019 – the second-generation movement

Twenty-nineteen was the tenth anniversary of the Zeitwerk, an occasion marked in an appropriately significant manner. It saw the launch of the most important evolution of the Zeitwerk when Lange finally unveiled the all-new, second-generation movement.

The movement made its debut, not as in the classic time-only guise but instead within the Zeitwerk Date ref. 143.038 in white gold and an unusual grey dial.

Because of the date ring on the edge of the dial, the case was scaled up to large 44.2 mm, or about 2 mm wider than its time-only counterpart.

The most important upgrades of the Zeitwerk Date lie in the new L043.8 movement, which is naturally derived from the original L043.1 but substantially improved.

From a practical standpoint, the most useful upgrade is the extended power reserve, now twice as long at 72 hours. Equally useful is the pusher at four o’clock for the quickset hours.

Reference: 143.038 (white gold)
Movement: L043.8
Limited edition: No

April 2020 – another small update

With the next Zeitwerk Lange returned to a past model. The Zeitwerk Minute Repeater ref. 147.028F became the first model in the range to sport a blue dial.

Unlike the original version in platinum that had a silver dial, the white gold version is a limited edition. Only 30 pieces were made, putting it on par with the Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst as the smallest production run amongst Zeitwerk models (leaving out the unique pieces).

Reference: 147.028F (white gold)
Movement: L043.5
Limited edition: 30 pieces

October 2021 – the second “Lumen”

On October 24, 2021, 27 years since the brand was reestablished, Lange unveiled the first time-only second-generation Zeitwerk. The Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen ref. 142.055 combines the brand’s proprietary gold alloy honey gold with the “Lumen” treatment.

Like the earlier Zeitwerk Date, the second Lumen has a second-generation movement with a 72-hour power reserve and quickset hours. It’s powered by the  L043.9.

Unlike the original Zeitwerk Luminous that was limited to 100 pieces, the Honey Gold Lumen is limited to 200 pieces, reflecting the appetite for complicated Lange watches.

Reference: 142.055 (honey gold)
Movement: L043.9
Limited edition: 200 pieces
Notable features: Tinted sapphire dial with luminous discs

October 2022 – finally the second-generation time-only

A year after the Honeygold Lumen, Lange finally unveiled the long-expected second-generation time-only Zeitwerk to replace the original from 2009. The new models are the ref. 142.025 in platinum and ref. 142.031 in pink gold.

Notably the pink gold version now sports a black dial instead of silver as is typical for Lange and found on the first-generation Zeitwerk. And the second-generation Zeitwerk is only available in two metals, lacking the white gold and yellow gold variants for now.

The movement within is the L043.6, which indicates that the calibre preceded the L043.7 of the Decimal Strike of 2017. For a detailed look at the second-generation model, check out our in-depth story.

Reference: 142.031 (pink gold) and 140.025 (platinum)
Movement: L043.6
Limited edition: No

Addendum: There have been 10 time-only Zeitwerk references across the two generations, including one “Lumen” edition from each generation, as well as a Handwerkskunst. 

Correction October 30, 2022: There have been seven limited edition Zeitwerks, instead of six as stated in an earlier version of the article. 

Despite being just two years old, Dubai-based retailer Perpétuel has unveiled a string of its own special editions, starting with Baltic in 2020, the year Perpétuel was founded. The retailer has once again turned to the French brand for the third collaborative edition between the two.

This time it’s a twist on Baltic’s best-selling micro-rotor wristwatch, the MR01. As is expected, the MR01 “Perpétuel” has all the elements associated with the Arabian Gulf, namely Eastern-Arabic numerals on a green dial.

Initial thoughts

The MR01 is already appealing in its original iteration, especially considering the price, but the Perpétuel edition includes several details that makes it that much more special.

Though a green dial with Eastern-Arabic numerals is no longer novel, it’s uncommon on a watch as affordable as the MR01. The Perpétuel edition brings these design elements to new or young enthusiasts, or anyone on a budget really, a laudable achievement.

But it’s also limited unfortunately. Though the run is far more generous than past editions – this is limited to 300 – the affordability means it will have a large audience.

Everything all at once

The MR01 manages to pack several desirable, old-school design elements into a compact, 36 mm package. Yet it remains impressively clean and fuss free.

For instance, the movement is a micro-rotor automatic made by the Hangzhou Watch Factory (we explained the calibre in our MR01 review), hence the affordability. This is one of key points of appeal for the MR01.

Given that watches with micro-rotor movements typically cost five figures, the MR01 is a novel proposition not only for enthusiasts on a budget but also seasoned collectors who want something low priced but loosely resembles higher-end watchmaking.

But perhaps more crucial is the dial. The MR01 certainly hits it out of the ballpark with a subtle two-tone finish as well as a quirky but attractive small-seconds at seven o’clock.

On top of that, the Eastern-Arabic numerals brings the dial to life. Interestingly, the applied numerals have been scaled down so they appear smaller than the Breguet numerals of the standard version.

This is a sensible adjustment since retaining the same size for the Eastern-Arabic numerals would have made the dial too crowded, with the numbers perhaps even overpowering the dial.

Key facts and price

Baltic MR01

Diameter: 36 mm
Height: 9.9 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Hesalite
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Hangzhou Watch Factory ELA05MN
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Leather with pin buckle

Limited edition: 300 pieces
Availability: Direct from Perpétuel
Price: AED3,350

For more, visit Perpetuel.com.

An exhibition focused on “microbrands”, Spring Sprang Sprung takes place in Singapore from October 28-30, 2022. Happening at XM Studio, a workshop best known for its hand-made comic figurines, the exhibition encompasses 21 watch brands and a leather goods maker.

The exhibition was the brainchild of local retailer Red Army Watches (RAW) and Singapore-based micro brand Feynman Timekeepers. Exhibiting brands include Havaan Tuvali, Vario, and Atelier Wen.

The flagship wristwatch from Feynman with a hand-made cloisonné enamel dial

Dive watches in bronze from Zelos

A city state that boasts a high density of high-end watch collectors, Singapore also has a thriving community of enthusiasts who cherish fun and inexpensive timepieces. In fact, several micro brands have emerged from Singapore, such as Feynman and Zelos.

The appreciation of micro brands has been developed in large part by RAW, long a proponent of affordable watchmaking. With stores in Singapore, Malaysia, and Brunei, RAW carries a range of micro brands, including several that are showing at Spring Sprang Sprung. It was RAW founder Sugiharto Kusumadi and Yong Keong Lim, the founder of Feymann, who provided the impetus for the exhibition.

The Vario Popeye jumping hour

The Atelier Wen Perception with a hand-made guilloche dial

Spring Sprang Sprung takes place October 28-30 at XM Studios in Singapore. It is open to public daily from 11:00 am-6:00 pm, except for Sunday when it closes at 5:00 pm.

Admission is free, but registration is required to attend (and those who register will receive a door gift). To register, visit Springsprangsprung.com.

XM Studios 
Kitchener Complex Level 3 XM Store
809 French Road
Singapore 200809

An Austrian independent watchmaker specialising in honest and appealing watches, Habring² has just unveiled its latest jumping-seconds wristwatch, the Erwin “THC School Piece”. Based on the brand’s signature time-only watch, the School Piece is fitted with a two-tone dial that features familiar elements combined in an unusual manner.

It sports ever-popular olive green, but only for the chapter ring that features Breguet numerals. Having a 1930s vibe thanks to the dial, the School Piece was unsurprisingly born of a request by a group of Asian collectors with an eye for vintage wristwatches.

Initial thoughts

Neither overly vintage nor too modern, the School Piece is arguably just right. The design blends details that are common but manages to do so at a coherent manner, resulting in something different that stands out from most Habring² creations – a feat considering the that most of the brand’s limited runs are vintage-inspired watches.

The styling should allow the School Piece will speak to enthusiasts across the collecting spectrum. Vintage-watch enthusiasts will appreciate the hints of the Patek Philippe Calatrava refs. 565 and ref. 570. While those who follow modern watchmaking will like the two-tone dial with a prominent green ring that gives the dial more flair than the typical vintage-style watch. And then there are the Breguet numerals that almost everyone likes.

While the School Piece is certainly appealing, there are arguably too many iterations of the brand’s jumping-seconds wristwatch that have similar design elements like Breguet numerals, “sector” dials and so on, making it difficult to keep up with the variations. That said, the School Piece is a limited edition of 10 available only to THC members so it is a moot point for this specific edition.

The Horology Club

THC is short for The Horology Club, a band of watch collectors in Hong Kong. Founded in 2021 by three young enthusiasts, THC aims to “promote the community aspect of watch collecting and the appreciation of the horological arts”.  Aiming to reach an audience beyond its home city, THC has its own website that includes articles and a fee-free classifieds section for selling watches.

And then, of course, there are the special edition watches, all of which are designed by club members. While Habring² is the first, THC has more in the pipeline, possibly including something from H. Moser & Cie.

Back to the School Piece: it’s like a typical Erwin with the a compact 38.5 mm case that houses the cal. A11MS, a proprietary movement constructed on the basic architecture of the Valjoux 7750.

While the movement is unchanged from most Erwin watches, the dial is novel. Unlike many Habring² watches that are definitively retro, the School Piece manages to look contemporary, despite being mostly made up of classical details such as the Breguet numerals.

Notably, the dial of also sports several details that reflect its designers’ keen eye. Amongst them is the fine concentric patterning on the green chapter ring as well as minute track, which contrasts with the vertical brushing on the silvered central portion. Another is the slightly raised profile of the Breguet numerals, which are actually adhesive appliqués. Such details are imperceptible at a distance, but they create depth and texture that brings it to life.

Key facts and price

Habring2 Erwin ‘THC School Piece’

Diameter: 38.5 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: A11MS
Features: Hours, minutes, and jumping seconds
Winding: Hand-wind
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Grey calf leather strap

Limited edition: 10 pieces
Availability: Only to THC members
Price: Unavailable

For more, visit Habring2.com and Thehorologyclub.com.

Historically a maker of military dive watches, Panerai has since evolved into a maker of distinctively-styled sports watches encompassing complications and precious metal cases. The watchmaker has just revealed an all-gold version of its trademark dive watch as a unique piece conceived for a good cause and a special occasion, the Luminor Marina Automatic PAM01501.

Engraved to indicate it’s a one-off creation, something Panerai rarely does, the PAM01501 will go under the hammer during the upcoming charity gala dinner for Kidz Horizon Appeal, a Singapore-based charity that funds medical treatment for children from disadvantaged backgrounds, which will take place on October 29, 2022.

The PAM01501 is engraved with “1/1” on the back

Initial thoughts

The PAM01501 is a metallic olive green – certainly a familiar colour. But keep in mind Panerai was one of the first brand to utilise green as a dial colour, most famously for the Submersible Bronzo a decade ago.

This happened well before the current fad for green dials, so Panerai is sticking to historical precedent rather than jumping on the bandwagon. In fact, the green dial and rose gold case brings to mind the original Bronzo, which had a similar palette (before it developed a patina).

But the crucial point is that the PAM01501 distinguishes itself by being a unique piece, and one for a good cause no less.

For the kids

Founded in 2004, Kidz Horizon Appeal (KHA) is a Singapore charity that supports children with chronic diseases but whose families lack the means to pay for treatment. The funds raised by KHA go to a fund maintained by the KK Women’s and Children’s Hospital, a medical institution that focuses on treating mothers and children.

KHA has raised 14 million Singapore dollars (or about US$9.85 million) to date, with a good portion of the money coming from unique watches sold at its annual gala dinners. The watches have included a unique Vacheron Constantin Chronometre Royal with a blue enamel dial and a one-off Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Skeleton in titanium with a Cermet bezel.

This year’s Panerai comes courtesy of a Singapore businessman who is an avid Panerai collector. He commissioned a one-off Panerai and then donated it to KHA for its charity auction. In fact, the Panerai is merely the latest watch he has contributed to the charity. In years past he has donated watches by Roger Dubuis, Franck Muller, and Hublot.

The winning bidder will be reminded of his or her generosity by “Kidz” engraved on the crown-locking lever

The PAM01501 is based on the standard 44 mm Luminor Marina Automatic, but made unique by its combination of case material and dial colour.

The dial is a metallic olive green with a radially-brushed finish that’s similar to that found in the limited-edition platinum version of the Luminor Marina Automatic. While the case is made of Goldtech, the brand’s proprietary 18k red gold alloy with a higher-than-average copper content to give it a redder hue, while also incorporating a dash of platinum to render it resistant to fading.

Key Facts and Prices

Panerai Luminor Marina Automatic “Kids Horizon”
Ref. PAM01501

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Goldtech
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: P.9010
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: Three days

Strap: Olive green alligator strap with an additional rubber strap in green

Limited edition: Piece unique
Availability: To be sold at Kidz Horizon Appeal Gala Dinner 2022 on October 29, 2022
Price: Not applicable, but to bid on the watch contact Ms Christine Gwee of Kidz Horizon Appeal

For more information, visit Kidzhorizon.sg and Panerai.com.

A certainty after the Zeitwerk Date of 2019 and last year’s Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen, the second-generation A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is finally here. As expected, the new Zeitwerk is a gentle evolution from the original in terms of design, but a substantial step forward in technical terms.

Known as the ref. 142.025 in platinum and ref. 142.031 in pink gold, the new Zeitwerk is powered by the same revamped movement L043 movement found in the Date and Lumen. As a result, it has all of same upgrades, namely a thinner movement that boasts a quickset corrector for the hours as well as a 72-hour power reserve.

The new Zeitwerk in pink gold

And the second-generation L043.6

Initial thoughts

In a technical sense, the new Zeitwerk is a superior watch, as it should be, coming 13 years after the original.

Aesthetically, it remains largely unchanged save for a few nips and tucks, leaving the new model instantly recognisable as a Zeitwerk. In fact, most would be hard pressed to tell the difference between the two generations from across a room.

The second generation (left) and its predecessor

In the metal the new Zeitwerk looks and feels very much like the original upon initial examination. But the differences quickly become obvious, even though some, like the enlarged seconds, are subtle enough they are difficult to pinpoint.

Other tweaks are easier to spot, like the red marking on the power reserve scale. Personally I’m not a fan of the red accent since it creates a peculiar focal point on the dial, though I understand the logic of red for low power.

The new Zeitwerk in platinum

The thinness of the watch, however, feels substantial, even though it’s only 0.4 mm. That’s largely due to the fact that the reduction in height comes from the bezel, which always seemed bulbous on the original.

Despite that, the new model still feels like a Zeitwerk – it’s a large, weighty watch as most Lange timepieces are, but it is just a tiny bit sleeker than the original.

The new model is 12.2 mm high, a seemingly modest reduction in height but one that makes a difference

The movement is undoubtedly better in terms of function and the same can be said of its aesthetics, though the complexity of decoration might divide opinion. While the first-generation movement had an almost chaotic design – exemplified by the crooked remontoir bridge – the new calibre has a cleaner, more coherent style.

Most of the changes, in short, are improvements in both design and function – they contribute to a better watch. The practical improvements are enough that the new model is arguably a worthwhile upgrade even for the owner of a first-generation model.

At the same time, the new Zeitwerk feels similar enough to the original that anyone familiar with the original will still be comfortable. Not much of a difference is noticeable on the wrist, except for the utility offered by the new features.

The new L043.6 with its straight remontoir bridge

On a separate note, it’s worth noting the seemingly sparse choices on offer. In contrast to the original model that was available in four variants, the new Zeitwerk makes it debut in only two – a conventional platinum with silver dial and a more unusual pink gold matched with a black dial.

The rationale of the pink gold version is probably to appeal to those who missed out on the Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen, which has a similar palette. In fact, at a distance both look almost the same.

Given that the white-gold-black-dial variant of the original Zeitwerk was probably the most popular, it’s peculiar that the combination isn’t in the catalogue anymore. But commercial logic dictates a variant of the white gold model with a dark dial, maybe blue or grey, is surely in the pipeline.

The Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen

The new Zeitwerk in pink gold

And in restrained platinum

Gently evolving

Side by side both generations of Zeitwerk are clearly similar but distinct. The visual changes from one generation are modest but enough that the the two can be distinguished at arm’s length.

Perhaps the most significant change is the case thickness. The new Zeitwerk is just 12.2 mm high, compared to 12.6 mm for its predecessor, a notable achievement considering the twofold increase in power reserve.

The new (left) and old

The reduction in height comes entirely from a flatter bezel; the case middle and back remain the same on both generations.

But that single component has a major impact on the perceived size and thickness of the watch. The flatter, slightly less domed bezel gives the new Zeitwerk a very different look and feel. Placed side by side with the original, the new Zeitwerk looks and feels almost svelte. The original, in contrast, suffers from a domed bezel that emphasis its bulk.

The new at 12.2 mm (left) and original at 12.6 mm

Another visible change is the addition of the pusher at four o’clock for advancing the hours. The button serves and eminently useful purpose since setting the time no longer requires cycling through 60 minutes repeatedly to set the hours. But it does interrupt the lines of the case. Personally I would happily sacrifice the utility of a quickset hours for a cleaner outline.

Less apparent but important to the visual refinement is the enlarged seconds register. It’s imperceptibly larger, but makes all the difference in giving the dial better proportions.

Paradoxically, despite being a fairly subtle change on its own, the enlarged seconds makes a big difference to the appearance of the dial because it reduces the footprint of the “winged” bridge for the time display. The slimmer bridge improves the appearance of the dial, as does the enlarged seconds, which is now more prominent than the power reserve indicator.

The increased diameter of the seconds narrow the “wing” bridge around it

In the earlier version, the seconds and power reserve were similar in scale. The new layout is more logical since the seconds are arguably more important for the wearer than the power reserve display (which is only needed once every three days when the movement needs winding).

The new model with its larger seconds (left), against the original, but both have identical power reserve scales

Despite being less prominent, the power reserve indicator is the same size as that of the original model. But it displays differently since it now indicates a long running time. Each hashmark on the scale represents six hours instead of three hours on the original.

The red accent at the empty end of the scale serves as a reminder that winding is necessary, although I am not a fan of the red accent as it jumps out on an otherwise low-key dial. On the pink gold model the red accent is more acceptable since it echoes the rosy hue of the case, but on the monochromatic platinum version it is too conspicuous.

The 12 hashmarks on the power reserve scale now add up to 72 hours

The final two segments of the scale in red represent the final 12 hours of running time

Refined mechanics

The back of the watch is where the differences between the two generations are realised in a tangible, mechanical sense. Visible through the open back of the new Zeitwerk is the L043.6, a calibre that shares the same base as the Zeitwerk Date that’s powered by the L043.8.

As an aside, much can be discerned from the movement name, “L043.6”. The “.6” suffix implies the movement is the sixth development of the L043 (though movements are not released in chronological order). Naturally, the movement of the very first Zeitwerk was the cal. L043.1.

The Zeitwerk Date that was launched in 2019

It was the first model with a second-generation movement, specifically the L043.8

And continuing conventional Lange nomenclature, the “043” prefix indicates development of the movement was started in 2004 – and it was the third movement developed that year. Much has changed in the intervening 18 years.

As a result, even though all Zeitwerk models from 2009 till now are powered by L043.X movements, the calibres can be categorised into two distinct generations that are different enough that key components are not interchangeable between the two. As a result, not only are the two generations different in terms of aesthetics, the second generation has numerous technical upgrades over its predecessor.

The L043.6 of the new Zeitwerk (left), compared with the L043.1 of the original from 2009

The first generation base movement is identical across all models up to, but not including, the Zeitwerk Date, from the base model to the top-of-the-line the minute repeater.

Meanwhile, the Zeitwerk Date signified the beginning of the second generation base movement when it made its debut in 2019 with the L043.8. It took three years for a base-model Zeitwerk with the updated base movement to make it to market, a delay perhaps caused by the pandemic.

The new Zeitwerk movement is identical to that found in the Zeitwerk Date, but without the date mechanism.

The straight remontoir bridge that signifies a second-generation Zeitwerk movement

Quickset hours

The most tangible upgrade to the new Zeitwerk is the quickset hours that can be advanced by the pusher at four o’clock. On its face a dedicated pusher solely for the hours seems odd, but in context it makes sense in several respects.

First, it eliminates the tedium of cycling through 60 minutes – up to 11 times at the extreme – when setting the time. While the pusher only advances the hours forwards, it is still more convenient and quicker than setting the time with the crown.

Second, it reinforces the digital nature of the Zeitwerk by creating a tactile interaction with the digital display. Lastly, the pusher also makes the Zeitwerk a travel-friendly watch since the time zone can be altered without interrupting timekeeping.

Despite being an ostensibly straightforward function, the hour pusher is constructed in typical Lange fashion – complex and reliable. It incorporates an “all-or-nothing” mechanism that is similar to that found in the slide of a minute repeater. This means that the pusher only operates when fully depressed, but does nothing if only depressed halfway, eliminating risks of accidental activation.

The concept behind the pusher is easy to understand: the button (1) pivots a lever with a spring-loaded pawl (3) at its tip that only passes the cam on the hour wheel when the lever is fully pivoted inwards.

Upon release of the pusher, the lever springs back to its neutral position thanks to a detent spring (2), in the process causing the pawl to advance the hour cam one notch forward. Notably, this configuration means the hour disc only advances when the pusher is released, rather than when it is depressed.

The all-or-nothing quickset set mechanism in the Zeitwerk Date that is identical to the hour mechanism in the new Zeitwerk. Image – Lange

Double capacity

The other notable movement upgrade is the lengthened power reserve that effectively doubles the running time from one day to three. The increase from 36 to 72 hours was achieved by a combination of feature, with the most notable being a new barrel set-up consisting of two stacked barrels arranged in series, effectively lengthening the power reserve without increasing the footprint of the barrel.

Each of the two mainsprings in the new movement are almost identical in length to the single mainspring in the original, but are slightly narrower in width. For comparison, the single mainspring in the original Zeitwerk is about two-thirds the height of the two stacked mainsprings in the new Zeitwerk.

The “floating” construction of the two stacked barrels in the new movement

The new barrel set-up streamlines the movement design as the barrel is now “floating” with the ratchet wheel fully visible on top. In the first-generation movement, the barrel was supported by a jewelled, ring-shaped bridge secured by three screws.

The four wheels that wind the mainspring begin just beside the crown and end with the barrel ratchet wheel

Furthermore, the new barrel does away with the need for the Maltese-cross stopwork that’s one of the key visual elements of the first-generation movement.

Even though the twin, stacked mainsprings are taller, the simplified overall barrel construction means the new Zeitwerk is 0.4 mm thinner than the first-generation model – an impressive achievement considering all of the refinements over its predecessor.

The first-generation movement with its kinked remontoir bridge and ring-shaped barrel bridge

Improved gears and wheels

Besides the mainsprings, the extended power reserve is also due to a more efficient gear train. Specifically, the remontoir spring is now thinner while the balance wheel is lighter – contributing to a reduction in the energy needed to power the movement.

Being lighter, the balance wheel requires less energy to oscillate. However, it remains a free-sprung balance that runs at a leisurely 18,000 beats per hour, or 2.5 Hz.

That, combined with the optimised gear train, leads to a substantial reduction in energy consumption by the remontoir. Robert Hoffmann, head watchmaker of the Zeitwerk department, explains that the energy used to rewind the remontoir spring only leads to a five-degree drop in balance wheel amplitude, compared to 35 degrees for the original movement.

Though it has been optimised, the redesigned remontoir operates on the same principles as that of the first-generation movement. The central component of the remontoir is the Y-shaped pallet lever under the centre of the remontoir bridge, which slowly oscillates back and forth in one-minute cycles, precisely releasing the remontoir mechanism once a minute.

The remontoir bridge with its Y-shaped pallet lever

This burst of energy as its releases is the force that drives the heavy hour and minute discs of the digital display, a feat accomplished without disturbing power flow to the balance wheel since the energy needs of the time display have been isolated by the remontoir.

In terms of aesthetics, the remontoir is now very different from its predecessor. It’s been streamlined to sport a linear steel bridge, as opposed to the (in)famous kinked-anchor bridge of the original. The new bridge is clearly neater and cleaner, though it perhaps lacks the idiosyncratic charm of the original, which had beauty in its distorted form.

In contrast, the regulating organ is classic Lange. Both the balance and escape wheel cocks are hand-engraved with a floral motif, as they were in the original movement. However, the balance cock features Lange’s latest form of stud holder.

The engraved escape wheel cock is special. Most Lange movements only sport an engraved balance cock. The engraved escape wheel cock is a flourish typically found only in limited editions or top-of-the-line complications like tourbillons.

The escape wheel cock is elaborately executed with not only engraving but also a black-polished steel cap for the jewel that sits in a gold chaton

Updated decor

The movement finishing in the new Zeitwerk is as expected from Lange, which is to say top-shelf and perhaps the best amongst large manufacturers. All of the hallmark decorative elements are present, like the German silver bridges with prominent anglage along most edges and the polished gold chatons for the larger jewels.

Some elements are unique to the Zeitwerk movement due to its unusual features. One being the snaking steel gear train for winding the barrel made up of four wheels. All four have polished teeth – with mirrored edges on the top edges and recesses – an exceptionally fine detail that is not only executed well but gives the movement an almost-artisanal feel.

Since the ratchet wheel is now exposed in the new movement, the polished teeth are especially easy to admire in their full glory since the barrel ratchet is the largest visible wheel

Another detail unique to the Zeitwerk movement is of course the linear remontoir bridge. Rendered in black-polished steel, the bridge is clearly laboriously finished – it has 32 inward angles along its bevelled edges.

Like all similar components in Lange movements, the bridge is finished by hand with a cone-shaped, rotating abrasive disc that can reach the inward angles. One consequence of this technique is the ever-so-slight, almost-invisible irregularity along the straight edges of the bridge, something apparent only under high magnification.

Even though the new movement is exemplary in nearly all respects, its redesigned mechanics, while functionally superior, arguably result in simplified finishing in one respect.

Due to the streamlined construction of the remontoir and barrel, the area of the three-quarter plate around the remontoir is cleanly machined but plain, with some of the circular cutouts for the remontoir having no bevelling. This area was concealed in the first-generation movement by the anchor-shaped remontoir bridge and barrel bridge.

There is presumably a technical reason for this ostensible omission, either due to production processes or the nature of the components, since that would only be logical and Lange movements are always logical. At the same time, it doesn’t detract from the overall appeal of the calibre.

Conclusion

The new Zeitwerk is essentially the same as its predecessor in terms of look and feel, but with improved technical features and practicality. That means it’s a tangibly superior watch to original.

Already the original was a magnificent achievement – with a magnificent complexity belied by the simple display – which means the new Zeitwerk is a bettered magnificent achievement.

Historically reliant on ETA and Sellita, Bell & Ross is employing Kenissi movements for the first time in the BR-X5. Though evidently evolved from the BR05, the BR-X5 is endowed with a more complex, modular case. That, in addition to the high-spec Kenissi movement, means the BR-X5 is the new flagship sports watch for Bell & Ross (B&R).

Initial thoughts

The BR-X5 is very much typical B&R in terms of aesthetics with its squarish bezel secured by screws and legible dial. In fact, it is easy to mistake this for the BR05 at a distance, but up close it is clear that the BR-X5 is a big step up in terms of quality. The Kenissi movement certainly outperforms the ETA and Sellita calibres found in the BR05, while the case has a more complex construction that gives it more versatility in terms of materials.

The BR-X5 is making its debut with a model entirely in steel as well as a fancier version in titanium and carbon that best illustrates the modular, layered construction of the case

The improved case and movement, however, come at a price. The BR-X5 costs about 50% more than the equivalent BR05, a premium that is easily justified by the technical improvements.

However, relative to the rest of the B&R line-up the BR-X5 is pricey for a time-only watch, which means it will likely only make sense for those who appreciate and understand the tangible qualities of the watch over its less expensive siblings in the B&R catalogue.

Familiar design, new mechanics

The centrepiece of the BR-X5 is the BR-CAL.323, a calibre produced by Kenissi, the movement manufacturer owned by Tudor and Chanel. It’s essentially the same movement as the MT5621 that Tudor used in its discontinued North Flag model.

The BR-X5 is the first instance of B&R turning to Kenissi, which is certainly an upgrade over the brand’s previous go-to movements from ETA. According to B&R, the Kenissi movement is why the BR-X5 has a five-year guarantee, an increase over the two years for ETA-powered B&R watches.

Like all Kenissi movements, the BR-CAL.323 has a 72-hour power reserve as well as a free-sprung balance wheel with adjustable weights for regulation. And unlike the ETA movement in a typical B&R, the BR-CAL.323 is COSC-certified.

Although the BR-X5 is similar to the BR05 – both share the same silhouette and most details – the BR-X5 case is substantially more complex in terms of construction. It’s comprised of a case middle with plates for the front and back, as well as a bezel and case back.

Similar to Hublot’s construction of its Big Bang case, this modular approach allows for easy mix-and-match of materials, which is demonstrated with the BR-X5 Carbon Orange (more on that below).

The BR-X5 is being launched in a handful of variants. Available with either a steel bracelet or rubber strap, the base model has a dial in either black or “Ice Blue”, both with a radially-brushed, metallic finish.

The top-of-the-line model is the BR-X5 Carbon Orange. Though it has the same movement and a similar design, the Carbon Orange has a more complex, multi-part case in both titanium and carbon composite, explaining why it costs almost double the base model in steel.

A titanium inner case sandwiched in-between two panels of carbon composite, which also forms the inlay on the bezel

Key Facts and Price

Bell & Ross BR-X5
Ref. BRX5R-BO-TC/SRB (Carbon Orange)
Ref. BR‐X5R‐BL‐ST (Black Steel)
Ref. BR‐X5R‐IB‐ST (Ice Blue Steel)

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 12.8 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: BR-CAL.323 (made by Kenissi)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and power reserve indicator
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet or rubber strap

Availability: Available now 
Price:
Black or Ice Blue on strap – US$6,900; or 9,700 Singapore dollars
Black or Ice Blue on bracelet – US$7,400; or 10,500 Singapore dollars
Carbon Orange – US$11,800; or 16,700 Singapore dollars

For more, visit bellross.com.

A watchmaker that endlessly experiments with new materials, Hublot has once again employed a novel alloy for its quintessential sports chronograph. Inspired by the brand’s celebrity-chef brand ambassadors who include Anne-Sophie Pic and Yannick Alléno, the Big Bang Unico Gourmet has a case of Damasteel, a striking, patterned steel that’s often used for high-end knives.

Initial thoughts

The Unico Gourmet is typical Hublot in how it employs a novel material for visual effect. For that reason it will surely appeal to existing fans of the brand who enjoy the Hublot aesthetic.

But the case material is Damasteel – not generic Damascus steel but a proprietary alloy made with a patented process by a Swedish specialist. While the alloy has been used in watches before, it’s more often used for pricey custom knives. The unusual metal means the watch will appeal to nerds who appreciate materials technology.

The watch happens to look good and also different from the average Hublot. The patterned steel echoes the aesthetics of the skeletonised movement, creating a coherent combination of textures. In other words, the material is perfect match for the Big Bang. In contrast, it’s easy to image that an ordinary round watch with conventional dial would have been overwhelmed by the intricate texture of Damasteel.

Since the watch is already loud with its striking pattern, it has been wisely been scaled down to just 42 mm, which is small for a Big Bang. As a result, it will sit well on most wrists.

And at US$24,100, the Unico Gourmet reasonably priced for what it is: a chronograph with an in-house movement inside a case made of an unusual alloy.

High-tech powdered steel

Historical Damascus steel, also known as wootz steel, is a mysterious alloy the secret to which has long been lost (though reportedly rediscovered by scientists). Originating in Indian and made famous by the blade smiths of Damascus, it was unnaturally sharp and ideal for edged weapons.

Modern-day Damascus steel, however, is essentially an alloy made up of two types of steel welded together and then folded numerous times, resulting in its distinctive grain. As a result, such Damascus steel is also known as pattern-welded steel.

Damasteel, on the other hand, is a proprietary steel made by a Swedish company of the same name that specialises in patterned steel. Damasteel is naturally produced with powdered steel where various steel alloys are first atomised into powder and then pressed under high pressure and temperature in a furnace.

The result is a mixed-steel alloy available in a variety of patterns, making it a favourite of artisanal knife makers since patterned steel inevitably adds an artistic edge to a blade (no pun intended).

That characteristic pattern is actually layers of constituent steels within Damasteel. Because each type of steel reacts differently to acid, Damasteel is etched with various acids to bring out the layered texture. The particular type of Damasteel used for the Unico Gourmet consists of 304L and 316L, both stainless steels that are widely used for watch cases.

The steels inside Damasteel explains its unusual nature and most important quality: it is a stainless-steel alloy. Stainless pattern steels are rare as they are more difficult to forge than ordinary high-carbon steel.

The darker layers are 304L while the pale layers are 316L

While the material is a first for Hublot, the case construction is standard Big Bang. It’s essentially a sandwich made up of Damasteel plates on the front and back with a case middle of black carbon composite.

Inside is the in-house HUB1280, a modular chronograph movement, hence the column wheel is visible on the dial at six o’clock.

The movement has a flyback function, which allows for an instantaneous restart of the chronograph without having to first reset it. And like most Hublot movements, it has been partially skeletonised with most parts treated with a matte black finish.

Key Facts and Price

Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet
Ref. 441.DS.1170.NR.GAS22

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 14.5 mm
Material: Polished Damasteel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: HUB1280
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Rubber strap with folding clasp and additional fabric strap with Velcro closure

Limited edition: 200 pieces
Availability: At Hublot boutiques and retailers
Price: US$24,100

For more, visit hublot.com.

Correction May 8, 2024: Damasteel is an independent company, and not part of Erasteel as stated in an earlier version of the article.