Historically reliant on ETA and Sellita, Bell & Ross is employing Kenissi movements for the first time in the BR-X5. Though evidently evolved from the BR05, the BR-X5 is endowed with a more complex, modular case. That, in addition to the high-spec Kenissi movement, means the BR-X5 is the new flagship sports watch for Bell & Ross (B&R).

Initial thoughts

The BR-X5 is very much typical B&R in terms of aesthetics with its squarish bezel secured by screws and legible dial. In fact, it is easy to mistake this for the BR05 at a distance, but up close it is clear that the BR-X5 is a big step up in terms of quality. The Kenissi movement certainly outperforms the ETA and Sellita calibres found in the BR05, while the case has a more complex construction that gives it more versatility in terms of materials.

The BR-X5 is making its debut with a model entirely in steel as well as a fancier version in titanium and carbon that best illustrates the modular, layered construction of the case

The improved case and movement, however, come at a price. The BR-X5 costs about 50% more than the equivalent BR05, a premium that is easily justified by the technical improvements.

However, relative to the rest of the B&R line-up the BR-X5 is pricey for a time-only watch, which means it will likely only make sense for those who appreciate and understand the tangible qualities of the watch over its less expensive siblings in the B&R catalogue.

Familiar design, new mechanics

The centrepiece of the BR-X5 is the BR-CAL.323, a calibre produced by Kenissi, the movement manufacturer owned by Tudor and Chanel. It’s essentially the same movement as the MT5621 that Tudor used in its discontinued North Flag model.

The BR-X5 is the first instance of B&R turning to Kenissi, which is certainly an upgrade over the brand’s previous go-to movements from ETA. According to B&R, the Kenissi movement is why the BR-X5 has a five-year guarantee, an increase over the two years for ETA-powered B&R watches.

Like all Kenissi movements, the BR-CAL.323 has a 72-hour power reserve as well as a free-sprung balance wheel with adjustable weights for regulation. And unlike the ETA movement in a typical B&R, the BR-CAL.323 is COSC-certified.

Although the BR-X5 is similar to the BR05 – both share the same silhouette and most details – the BR-X5 case is substantially more complex in terms of construction. It’s comprised of a case middle with plates for the front and back, as well as a bezel and case back.

Similar to Hublot’s construction of its Big Bang case, this modular approach allows for easy mix-and-match of materials, which is demonstrated with the BR-X5 Carbon Orange (more on that below).

The BR-X5 is being launched in a handful of variants. Available with either a steel bracelet or rubber strap, the base model has a dial in either black or “Ice Blue”, both with a radially-brushed, metallic finish.

The top-of-the-line model is the BR-X5 Carbon Orange. Though it has the same movement and a similar design, the Carbon Orange has a more complex, multi-part case in both titanium and carbon composite, explaining why it costs almost double the base model in steel.

A titanium inner case sandwiched in-between two panels of carbon composite, which also forms the inlay on the bezel

Key Facts and Price

Bell & Ross BR-X5
Ref. BRX5R-BO-TC/SRB (Carbon Orange)
Ref. BR‐X5R‐BL‐ST (Black Steel)
Ref. BR‐X5R‐IB‐ST (Ice Blue Steel)

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 12.8 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: BR-CAL.323 (made by Kenissi)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and power reserve indicator
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet or rubber strap

Availability: Available now 
Price:
Black or Ice Blue on strap – US$6,900; or 9,700 Singapore dollars
Black or Ice Blue on bracelet – US$7,400; or 10,500 Singapore dollars
Carbon Orange – US$11,800; or 16,700 Singapore dollars

For more, visit bellross.com.

A watchmaker that endlessly experiments with new materials, Hublot has once again employed a novel alloy for its quintessential sports chronograph. Inspired by the brand’s celebrity-chef brand ambassadors who include Anne-Sophie Pic and Yannick Alléno, the Big Bang Unico Gourmet has a case of Damasteel, a striking, patterned steel that’s often used for high-end knives.

Initial thoughts

The Unico Gourmet is typical Hublot in how it employs a novel material for visual effect. For that reason it will surely appeal to existing fans of the brand who enjoy the Hublot aesthetic.

But the case material is Damasteel – not generic Damascus steel but a proprietary alloy made with a patented process by a Swedish specialist. While the alloy has been used in watches before, it’s more often used for pricey custom knives. The unusual metal means the watch will appeal to nerds who appreciate materials technology.

The watch happens to look good and also different from the average Hublot. The patterned steel echoes the aesthetics of the skeletonised movement, creating a coherent combination of textures. In other words, the material is perfect match for the Big Bang. In contrast, it’s easy to image that an ordinary round watch with conventional dial would have been overwhelmed by the intricate texture of Damasteel.

Since the watch is already loud with its striking pattern, it has been wisely been scaled down to just 42 mm, which is small for a Big Bang. As a result, it will sit well on most wrists.

And at US$24,100, the Unico Gourmet reasonably priced for what it is: a chronograph with an in-house movement inside a case made of an unusual alloy.

High-tech powdered steel

Historical Damascus steel, also known as wootz steel, is a mysterious alloy the secret to which has long been lost (though reportedly rediscovered by scientists). Originating in Indian and made famous by the blade smiths of Damascus, it was unnaturally sharp and ideal for edged weapons.

Modern-day Damascus steel, however, is essentially an alloy made up of two types of steel welded together and then folded numerous times, resulting in its distinctive grain. As a result, such Damascus steel is also known as pattern-welded steel.

Damasteel, on the other hand, is a proprietary steel made by a Swedish company of the same name that specialises in patterned steel. Damasteel is naturally produced with powdered steel where various steel alloys are first atomised into powder and then pressed under high pressure and temperature in a furnace.

The result is a mixed-steel alloy available in a variety of patterns, making it a favourite of artisanal knife makers since patterned steel inevitably adds an artistic edge to a blade (no pun intended).

That characteristic pattern is actually layers of constituent steels within Damasteel. Because each type of steel reacts differently to acid, Damasteel is etched with various acids to bring out the layered texture. The particular type of Damasteel used for the Unico Gourmet consists of 304L and 316L, both stainless steels that are widely used for watch cases.

The steels inside Damasteel explains its unusual nature and most important quality: it is a stainless-steel alloy. Stainless pattern steels are rare as they are more difficult to forge than ordinary high-carbon steel.

The darker layers are 304L while the pale layers are 316L

While the material is a first for Hublot, the case construction is standard Big Bang. It’s essentially a sandwich made up of Damasteel plates on the front and back with a case middle of black carbon composite.

Inside is the in-house HUB1280, a modular chronograph movement, hence the column wheel is visible on the dial at six o’clock.

The movement has a flyback function, which allows for an instantaneous restart of the chronograph without having to first reset it. And like most Hublot movements, it has been partially skeletonised with most parts treated with a matte black finish.

Key Facts and Price

Hublot Big Bang Unico Gourmet
Ref. 441.DS.1170.NR.GAS22

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 14.5 mm
Material: Polished Damasteel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: HUB1280
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Rubber strap with folding clasp and additional fabric strap with Velcro closure

Limited edition: 200 pieces
Availability: At Hublot boutiques and retailers
Price: US$24,100

For more, visit hublot.com.

Correction May 8, 2024: Damasteel is an independent company, and not part of Erasteel as stated in an earlier version of the article.