With the debut of Zach Starr Weiss’s OraOrea comes the introduction of the Coriolis Pointer Date. Having founded Worn & Wound in 2011 and the Windup Watch Fair in 2015, Mr Weiss brings an enthusiast’s eye and and insider’s perspective to his own brand.

Initial thoughts

An industrial designer before founding Worn & Wound, Brooklyn-based Zach Starr Weiss has put his experience to work with the launch of his own brand, OraOrea, which translates loosely as ‘golden hour.’

The debut model, the Coriolis Pointer Date, features its namesake complication alongside several clever and expensive details, including solid 18k gold hemispheres on the dial, and curved seconds and minutes hands.

I got to see the watch ahead of its debut and the quality of the dial finishing is evident. The design is arguably a bit crowded — a time-only variant would help with that — but the three-dimensionality of the design helps keep things interesting.

The case checks all the boxes for a go-anywhere, do-anything-style watch, with a 38.5 mm stainless steel case rated to 100 m, despite a standard push/pull crown.

The robustness of the case may seem like overkill, but Mr Weiss rightly understands that there’s a segment of passionate collectors for whom 100 m is the bare minimum for a watch intended for daily wear.

Intricate dial

The dial is notable for its massive laser-cut and hand-polished index, which encircles the dial. This so-called ‘oscillating index’ features alternately spaced Roman numerals, placed above and below a railroad minutes track, punctuated by applied gold studs.

The design calls to mind certain mid-century Omega chronometers, which often featured alternating Roman numerals and studs.

The hands appear to be expensively made, and should reward close scrutiny. The lozenge-shaped hour hand is particularly luxe, beveled inside and out. The capped seconds hand, like the minutes hand, is curved at the tip for better legibility — an unexpected detail in the price segment.

Three variants

The Coriolis comes in three colourways: silver, teal, and black. The Skyline Silver option is the brightest of the three, with a vivid blue applied chapter ring and date pointer. The darker dials — Venetus Teal and Rhodium Black — are paired with a mirror-polished chapter ring and gold-coloured date pointers.

The 38.5 mm stainless steel case is the same regardless of the dial colour, as is the tapered leather strap.

Interestingly, what at first looks like a simple one-piece case is actually a multi-piece design with separate lug wings to allow for the desired finishing along the case edges and between the lugs.

Pointer date, sans moon

The movement powering the Coriolis looks familiar through the case back, being a Sellita SW300 derivative, but carries the unfamiliar designation SW386. That’s because it’s a new variant of this tried-and-true movement platform, featuring a pointer date but deleting the moon phase display usually comes part-and-parcel with this complication from Sellita.

Mr Weiss has chosen to have this movement finished to Sellita’s highest level of decoration, which is why it gleams with ample perlage and and custom rotor. In terms of performance, the SW386 is delivered in what the manufacture calls ‘Top’ grade, its second-highest classification after chronometer grade.

Key facts and price

OraOrea Coriolis Pointer Date

Diameter: 38.5 mm
Height: 12.1 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Sellita SW386-1
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Leather strap with pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: Directly from OraOrea, with shipments planned for late 2026
Price: US$3,950 (excluding taxes)

For more, visit Oraorea.com.

Ferdinand Berthoud (FB), Chopard’s haut de gamme sub-brand, introduces its first flying tourbillon just weeks before Watches & Wonders. The Mesure du Temps 1787 Chronomètre FB 2TV.1 is exceptional in both quality and price, presenting almost everything of interest on the dial side — chain and fusee included — along with hacking and zero-reset seconds. The dial-side spectacle will be the calling card of the new Mesure du Temps 1787 collection.

Initial thoughts

The revival of long-dead masters’ names to sell unrelated watches is a practice that invites scepticism — and often deserves it. The Ferdinand Berthoud brand, however, is a different matter. There is nothing cynical about it, and one suspects the man himself wouldn’t mind being associated with some of the finest mechanical watches being made today — in his home town, no less.

A different name on the dial, Scheufele perhaps, might still feel more authentic, but that’s a minor quibble with what is otherwise an overwhelmingly high quality watch.

The latest take on the brand’s chronometer-inspired formula adds one of my favourite features: a zero-reset seconds hand. Though I prefer the designs of the brand’s past projects, the FB 2TV.1 suggests the team at FB understands what the market wants, and the movement-as-a-dial aesthetic is hot right now.

The flying tourbillon is new for the brand, in both technique and aesthetics. Until now the brand’s massive revolving regulators were secreted away on the case back; dial side tourbillons may be a cliché, but if there ever was a justification for one, this is it.

Simplified case

The lavishly detailed case derives from the work of Berthoud himself, but has been toned down compared to some of the modern brand’s earlier outings. It also loses the sapphire crystal display ports in the side, which previously allowed close observation of the side of the fusee. Now that so much of the movement is revealed on the dial, the case band windows are no longer needed.

The 44 mm ethically sourced white gold case is wide and tall to fit the massive calibre, which is 35.6 mm in diameter, putting it well into what was once considered pocket watch territory, which is needed to contain the movement’s decadent decoration and advanced feature set.

Terraced tourbillon

With the upper bridge eliminated and the movement flipped, the calibre FB-TV.FC’s massive tourbillon is on full display. The beryllium copper balance wheel is oversized at 11.2 mm, despite being contained in a tourbillon cage. For the sake of comparison, the balance wheel of an ETA 2824 measures only 8 mm. The large balance wheel if free-sprung on an overcoil hairspring, and runs at 3 Hz as is typical for traditionally minded high-end watches.

The movement is comprehensively hand-finished to exacting standards — 300 hours are required for the decoration alone, according to the brand. Traditional movement decoration exists in a curious tension with the present, as modern manufacturing makes it easy to replicate the former calling cards of handwork, something many collectors are not fully aware of.

These interior angles, for example, are done the old-fashioned way, with metal files, then pegwood and abrasives. In contrast, brands offer watches with over 100 interior angles, but with less handwork.

One of the reasons that the FB brand manages to be convincing is due to the historical continuity expressed in the details. The top-quality oscillator, for example, and the terraced design of the cage, designed to accommodate the overcoil hairspring, are key traits of the great English tourbillons made during the late pocket watch era. It was even submitted to the contemporary equivalent of observatory testing, earning a chronometer certification from COSC.

Revised chain and fusee

The chain and fusee system is incredibility similar to the gear-changing mechanism on a bicycle in both appearance and function, though, surprisingly, it predates the bicycle by centuries. In modern parlance, the mechanism shifts gears as the mainspring winds down, delivering relatively even torque to the train over the entire power reserve.

The chain is comprised of 465 stamped links, and one hook, held together by 311 pins. Be warned: these chains are infamously fragile when shrunk to wristwatch sizes, and can be easily snapped by vigorous winding.

Compared to its earlier tourbillon calibres, FB has significantly reworked the movement, un-inverting the inverted fusee cone of previous calibres, adding a double-Maltese cross stop-work, and updating the maintaining work.

These, among other changes, add up to a more efficient and performant movement that will run for a full 60 hours (up from 53), has a flatter torque curve, and takes about 10 fewer turns of the crown to wind to full from a dead stop.

The first iteration of the brand’s chain and fusee.

The mainspring of a normal watch is wound from one end while the other drives the movement, but with a chain and fusee, both winding and driving must be resolved from the same end — winding reverses the chain onto the fusee cone. This requires some means of maintaining power to the train during the process; here, FB uses a differential system.

Zero-reset

The flying tourbillon and elaborate chain and fusee are not the only special features of the FB 2TV.1 — the power reserve also commands attention. Rather than a modern planetary or ball-bearing differential, the FB 2TV.1 uses the more visually striking cone and feeler system.

Winding the watch raises the cone, displacing the ruby-tipped feeler that controls the power reserve indicator. As the mainspring runs down, the cone descends, driving the indicator arc accordingly.

Pulling the crown out to set the time halts the seconds hand — standard practice for fixed-escapement watches, though notably rare among tourbillons — but the FB 2TV.1 adds another, less common feature. Depressing the crown sends the seconds hand flying back to zero, restarting once the crown is released.

This allows the watch to be synchronised to a time reference with the seconds zeroed — or pressed into service as a rudimentary chronograph, much as with the Rolex Zerograph.

The zero reset works.

Key Facts and Price

Ferdinand Berthoud Mesure du Temps 1787 Chronometre FB 2TV
Ref. FB 2TV.1

Diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 15.46 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: FB-TV.FC
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve indicator, chain and fusee, flying one minute tourbillon, zero-reset seconds.
Winding: Hand-wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Alligator with matching white gold folding buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: At boutiques and retailers
Price: EUR382,000 (~US$442,000) excluding taxes

For more, visit Ferdinandberthoud.ch.

Citizen continues to celebrate five decades of solar-powered watchmaking with the limited-edition Photon, a sleek titanium watch that combines the brand’s signature technologies, namely Eco-Drive and Super Titanium, in an attractive and affordable package.

Initial thoughts

In the age of low-cost micro-brands and connected smartwatches, it’s never been harder to stand out with a relatively simple quartz watch. Citizen, however, is more than up to the challenge, and is celebrating the 50th anniversary of its industry-leading Eco-Drive technology with a slate of new models that includes the Photon.

The Photon embodies Citizen’s strengths, with a solar-powered quartz movement and durable Super Titanium case, which benefits from the brand’s leading position in the field of scratch-resistant surface coatings. The result is an affordable and appealing pair of integrated bracelet sport watches with a distinctive case shape and multi-layered dial.

Unlimited energy

Citizen didn’t invent the solar-powered watch — that honour goes to the Synchronar 2100 — but it quickly took the lead in bringing this technology to maturity. The Japanese titan has never looked back, and today licenses its category-leading Eco-Drive technology to brands like TAG Heuer.

To generate electricity from light, the engineers at Citizen have developed a number of semi-opaque dial materials over the years. For the Photon, Citizen has opted for a multi-layer dial with overlapping slits, creating a design that balances light transmission and design.

There’s something especially satisfying about designs that are inherently functional, and the designers at Citizen deserve credit for the attractive, layered look, accentuated by the dial printing, which is applied to the underside of the crystal.

The multi-layer dial of the Photon.

Integrated, without being derivative

The widespread development of integrated-bracelet sport watches is a trend that has defined the past few years. The demand for this format is understandable — not only is a bracelet generally more versatile than a strap, especially in hot or wet weather, but there’s been an increase in cultural attention on the handful of icons that defined the category in the 1970s, including the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus.

Unfortunately, many new entrants have fallen into the trap of mimicry, effectively creating low-budget copies of more sought-after models. Fortunately, Citizen has been around for decades and has its own design history to draw from. As a result, the Photon is an integrated bracelet design that manages to feel fresh and original.

That’s partly due to the futuristic look of the dial, and partly to do with the flying saucer-like profile of the sleek case, which measures 39.6 mm and is under 10 mm thick. It’s also lightweight and durable thanks to the brand’s Duratect surface treatment, which is part of Citizen’s Super Titanium portfolio of coatings.

This makes the case and bracelet significantly more scratch resistant than both untreated titanium alloys, and most other materials used for watch cases. The durable coating can be produced in various colours, including the silver-tone titanium carbide finish, and the more contemporary combination of black and amber yellow.

Key facts and price

Citizen Eco-Drive Photon 50th Anniversary Edition
Ref. BJ6560-53W (titanium carbide finish)
Ref. BJ6569-59X (DLC finish)

Diameter: 39.6 mm
Height: 9.9 mm
Material: Super Titanium with Duratect coating
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Caliber E036
Features: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 32,768 Hz
Power reserve: 12 months on power save mode

Strap: Matching Super Titanium bracelet

Limited edition: 5,000 pieces in each colour
Availability: At Citizen boutiques and retailers starting in autumn 2026
Price: US$995 (titanium carbide); or US$1,195 (DLC) excluding taxes

For more, visit Citizenwatch-global.com.

Albishorn returns with a new interpretation of its mountaineering chronograph, the Thundergraph Khumbu, swapping the original’s petroleum blue dial for a green colourway and introducing the brand’s first-ever bracelet option.

Like its predecessor, the watch draws inspiration from the 1952 Swiss expeditions to Everest, this time taking its name from the Khumbu region of Nepal traversed by the climbing party on its approach to the mountain.

Initial thoughts

I was impressed by the original Thundergraph when it launched last year — it was my favourite Albishorn to that point. The Khumbu does not reinvent anything, but the bracelet option is a meaningful addition that should widen the appeal to a new segment of collectors.

The stainless steel case is carried over unchanged at 39 mm at the case band, expanding to 42.7 mm across the bezel. The asymmetric form, red anodised aluminium monopusher at 9:30, and bronze crown engraved with the Albishorn logo — appropriately modeled on a snow-capped peak — are all retained.

The case back also carries the same Swiss cross and rope engraving, the emblem of the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, which remains one of the more convincing elements of the brand’s ‘imaginary vintage’ concept.

Khumbu green

The petroleum blue dial of the original Thundergraph has been replaced by a mint green opaline hue, said to be inspired by the Khumbu glacier region, where vegetation survives in a harsh environment of ice and rock.

The distinctive “California ghost” layout is unchanged, with Roman numerals occupying the upper half of the dial, with a running seconds at 4:30 and 30-minute counter at 7:30 in lieu of Arabic numerals in the bottom half of the dial.

The four cardinal positions are marked with triangular rose gold-plated dial markers, and each piece of dial furniture is generously treated with beige Super-LumiNova, including the pair of red-painted hands for the elapsed seconds and minutes. The green-and-gold colourway is very much on-trend, but attractive enough in its own right to have lasting appeal.

A proprietary calibre

One of the things that differentiates Albishorn within the crowded market of so-called micro-brands is its small stable of proprietary movements conceived by its founder, Dr Sébastien Chaulmontet. Regardless of dial colour, the Thundergraph is powered by the cal. ALB03 M, a COSC-certified manually wound chronograph movement, concealed behind a solid case back.

The ALB03 M shares its DNA with the Valjoux 7750 but has been substantially redeveloped by Dr Chaulmontet to be 16% slimmer, enabling a total case height of just 12 mm including the domed sapphire crystal.

Dr Chaulmontet also worked his magic on the geometry of the chronograph levers, creating a monopusher design with a crisp break for start, stop, and reset. Thanks in part to its convenient placement at the 9:30 position, the pusher feel of the ALB03 M is a cut above most similarly priced chronographs.

At last, a bracelet

The Thundergraph Khumbu is the first Albishorn offered with a bracelet, and the option feels overdue. The steel bracelet takes its cues from the bamboo-style bracelets popular in the late 1940s and early 1950s, such as the Forstner Bonklip.

The design has been modernised, but the inspiration is clear. The straight end-links give it the informal, slightly awkward look that is period-correct for the theme of the watch.

Vintage inspiration aside, the bracelet is a thoroughly modern build, with each link secured by screws for full adjustability. Furthermore, two concealed extension systems, one on each side of the clasp, allow quick on-the-wrist adjustment without tools — a practical feature consistent with the Thundergraph’s tool-watch brief, and one that is sought-after by many collectors today.

While there’s not (yet) any indication that the bracelet will be sold on a standalone basis, there’s nothing to suggest it isn’t compatible with other Albishorn models.

Key facts and price

Albishorn Thundergraph Khumbu

Diameter: 42.7 mm
Height: 12 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: ALB03 M
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Manual
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Leather strap with pin buckle (optional stainless steel bracelet)

Limited edition: 99
Availability: Available directly from Albishorn
Price: CHF3,650 (CHF4,100 on bracelet) before taxes

For more, visit Albishorn-watches.ch.

Konstantin Chaykin unveils the ultimate version of his ultra-thin opus, the ThinKing Mystery. A 12-piece limited edition that refines the ideas from his original prototype, the ThinKing has reached maturity. The fact that Mr Chaykin achieved this without the help of big-budget research and developments facilities is a testament to the Moscow-based watchmaker’s technical prowess. The thoughtful process of updating the ThinKing platform prior to commercialisation speaks highly of his engineering rigour.

Initial thoughts

We covered the first ThinKing prototype when it launched two years ago in the fall of 2024. The timepiece remains to this day the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, measuring just 1.65 mm from top to case back.

A staggering 1.65 mm thickness.

The ThinKing implemented a number of interesting mechanical choices and made some compromises to fit an entire timekeeper to fit in a meagre 1.65 mm-thick space. Like other ultra-thin record-chasers, the case doubles as the movement mainplate, making the ThinKing, in a sense, a raw movement bound to a strap. To reduce the height of the oscillator, its components were spread out horizontally. The barrel was rethought to incorporate a click wheel inside the mainspring arbour, shaving precious height.

The first prototype was cheating a little too, since it could not be set or wound without a separate docking module called the Palanking. Compared to other ultra-thin watches, which require (at most) a pen-like winding and setting tool, the ThinKing was using a bit of trickery by stripping down the movement to the bare minimum.

This detail was upgraded for the subsequent edition that hit the auction block at Phillips last year, which introduced key winding. The new Mystery retains this key-based winding and setting process, similar to that of the Richard Mille RM UP-01, and also introduces a special winding and setting box.

The design was also refined with twin sapphire ‘mystery’ discs for indicating the hours and minutes. The look is minimalist, and even seems more legible than the original — although legibility is rarely a significant factor for buyers of these kinds of exotic, record-breaking watches. The minimalist look is elevated by the coarsely brushed case, bearing only Mr Chaykin’s logo and name, engraved in such a way as to resemble a grinning face — another signature motif of the brand.

Mr Chaykin has produced other so-called ‘mystery’ watches in the past, citing Robert-Houdini as an inspiration. Commercialising a watch this thin is one thing; endowing it with a bonus ‘mystery’ complication adds to the achievement.

While this version is naturally less experimental than the first prototype, it is a mark of Mr Chaykin’s ambition that such an unconventional project has reached production. Mr Chaykin is determined that the watch be a reliable daily wearer, and has implemented a dedicated quality control protocol to ensure it holds up under real wearing conditions.

The ThinKing Mystery is priced at CHF400,000. That is a considerable sum for any watch, but set against the RM UP-01’s lofty price of US$1.9 million, it feels reasonable, and reflects both the significant work that went into its engineering, and the fact that each of the 12 examples will be assembled by Mr Chaykin himself.

Incremental updates

While this ThinKing Mystery looks almost identical to the first prototype, some things have changed on the inside. The calibre got a new designation, K.23-3.1, hinting at the intermediate steps that shaped this final version.

The first prototype was cased in some unspecified special stainless steel, which was swapped for a nickel alloy. The issue was not related to bending stress, but rather to corrosion. While stainless steel is corrosion-resistant by definition, Mr Chaykin was not open to sharing more about the exact alloy used — so it’s difficult to asses the claims. The ThinKing Mystery is 41 mm in diameter, and nearly weightless at just 12.1 g without the strap.

The case itself serves as the movement’s mainplate, most apparent on the reverse, where functional jewel bearings, secured by gold chatons, are set directly into the case back. This method is ingenious but comes at a cost: it precludes any meaningful water resistance and exposes the movement’s oils to air and contaminants. It is a clever mechanical solution, though one with implications for long-term reliability.

Another big change came in the form of the revised regulator, which now more closely resembles a traditional balance wheel. The system is properly free-sprung, with four massive regulating weights on the rim.

The oscillator is spread out horizontally, so that the hairspring and balance share the same axis, but the impulse pin and safety roller are geared off on a second axis. The result is a deconstructed oscillator, which radically reduces the oscillator’s vertical footprint.

The design also allows the Swiss lever escapement to keep a proper geometry — as opposed to the Richard Mille RM UP-01 where the optimal geometry was compromised to a degree. Mr Chaykin’s construction also has all the usual safety implements common to regular Swiss lever escapements.

Details of the movement. Note the mystery disks.

The regulator beats at a slow 2.5 Hz and the ThinKing Mystery has an autonomy of 38 hours, generated by the slim mainspring. The design scores terribly in terms of absolute efficiency, but this is a necessary concession to size constraints. Interestingly, the original K.23-0 movement ran for only 32 hours, so there is a jump in efficiency inside the K.23-3.1.

The ThinKing is rated to a tolerance of -15/+20 seconds per day — unimpressive by chronometric standards, but admirable given the movement’s extraordinary slimness. Beyond conventional positional adjustment, Mr Chaykin also checks rate stability under an imposed bending load on the case.

That’s one of roughly 40 tests and checkpoints developed specifically for the ThinKing. Mr Chaykin’s aim is to ensure the balance maintains proper amplitude and optimal power flow is not compromised even when the movement is under slight tension.

Perhaps the most significant departure from the K.23-0 prototype is the winding and setting system, which now uses a handheld stylus rather than a bulky cradle. The system is compatible with an included winding box, but it’s no longer required. Instead, a special key slots directly into the case back and incorporates a torque-limiting mechanism to prevent overwinding and mainspring strain.

The shock-absorbing strap also returns, apparently unchanged. The slim leather strap features titanium reinforcements and functions as a damper, preventing the ThinKing from being strapped too tightly and protecting the movement from excessive flexion.

The movement is well decorated for so technical a watch — all the more so given that it remains entirely concealed by the case. The bridges are finished with perlage and the steel components are brushed and polished to a high standard, a reminder that Mr Chaykin is as much a craftsman as he is an engineer.

Key facts and price

Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Mystery
Ref. K.23-3.1

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 1.65 mm
Material: Non-magnetic nickel alloy
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: No

Movement: K.23-3.1
Functions: Regulator-style “mystery” hours and minutes
Winding: Key-wound
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Black leather with titanium supports and elastic inserts

Limited edition: Yes, 12 pieces
Availability: Directly from Konstantin Chaykin
Price: CHF400,000 excluding taxes

For more information, visit Chaykin.ru

A new independent voice emerges with the L’Impétrant, the debut watch from Stéphane Pierre, combining a bi-retrograde time display with an architecturally distinctive movement. Put together by an all-star roster of specialists, the L’Impétrant is a fresh take on a familiar format.

Initial thoughts

The central question with any debuting independent is whether ambition matches execution. Stéphane Pierre’s L’Impétrant is quirky and eccentric — and just as importantly seems well made thanks to the efforts of some 20 contributing specialists across fields such as movement construction, machining, electroplating, stamping and finishing. Given the evergreen popularity of the high-end, time-only format, it may well find its audience.

The L’Impétrant’s visual staple is a set of enormous 19 mm retrograde hands — one for the minutes and the other for the hours. The bi-retrograde complication is no longer uncommon, but The L’Impétrant’s overlapping arrangement of the hands, and the luxurious construction of the mechanism, is unusual, helping it stand out within this niche.

The mastermind behind the L’Impétrant has had an unusual career. Stéphane Pierre originally trained as a mechanical engineer and, intriguingly, has spent time working for both the Swatch Group and in the military sector.

The L’Impétrant is essentially a very high-end time-only watch, and as such it enters a crowded market. However, rather than just developing a basic time-only watch, Mr Pierre took the more difficult road and built a double retrograde movement with a complex architecture. The double retrograde function, combined with the dial-side-mounted balance wheel and the power reserve cone make for a watch face that is busy in concept but surprisingly legible in practice.

Notably, the L’Impétrant was realised with the help of prototypist Julien Tixier, and the end product is promising. Mr Tixier is best known for the Renaud Tixier brand, which has yet to establish a differentiated design language. Seeing Mr Tixier’s construction skills applied to such an interesting project is encouraging — the L’Impétrant is arguably a stronger canvas on which to demonstrate his capabilities.

To fund future development, the L’Impétrant will be released first as a souscription series of 15 pieces, featuring a mixed-metal case in 18k rose gold and zirconia alongside bespoke colourways. Once the souscription series closes, the standard L’Impétrant will be produced in limited runs of different configurations, starting with a 50-piece edition.

Bold design

From case to dial, the L’Impétrant is an eccentric watch. The bi-retrograde display features twin 19 mm gold hands that overlap and indicate the time against two pearly-white zirconia sectors. The milky white of the sectors recalls classic enamel dials — a look complemented by the traditional typeface.

The case is machined from grade 23 titanium — the higher-purity, biocompatible alloy preferred in medical and aerospace applications, making the choice feel like a nod to Mr. Pierre’s military engineering background. At 39 mm in diameter and 10.8 mm in thickness (12.2 mm with the crystal), it strikes a balance of being small enough to be easily wearable while larger enough for the time display to have plenty of visual impact.

The L’Impétrant’s case takes a classical round form as its starting point, but the details are thoroughly contemporary. The hollowed-out case band gives it an architectural quality, while the open lugs are an unusual touch.

Strong engineering chops

The movement making the L’Impétrant tick is an exercise in architectural watchmaking. Without a traditional dial, the onlooker is immediately treated to a thorough view of the well-decorated calibre.

The most dynamic aspect of the design is naturally its regulator and escapement, which are mounted dial-side up. The large free-sprung balance beats at a leisurely 3 Hz pace and the hairspring features an elegant Breguet overcoil.

Much of the retrograde works are made visible by the lack of a traditional dial and, spotlighting the snail cam and follower mechanism responsible for the retrograde minutes indication.

The openworked architecture also reveals the dial-side winding gears. The mainspring barrel is inverted inside the movement, with the barrel drum facing the case back side. There is also a Maltese cross stop-work, which limits the running of the movement to keep it within the sweet spot of the torque curve. On the reverse, the architecture reveals the going train and two quiet complications.

The most dynamic case back-side indication is the small seconds, which reads against yet another zirconia sub-dial. The display reminds of the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum, but here the construction allows the seconds hand to sweep in the clockwise direction.

The second case back-side display is a power reserve indicator, which relies on a ruby differential screw-and-cone system. This sort of mechanism was widely employed by craftsmen such as George Daniels and Derek Pratt, and remains associated with high-grade movements.

But compared to these illustrious predecessors, Mr Pierre went for an alternative construction, placing the ruby cone’s axis in-plane with the movement, as opposed to the more-common perpendicular arrangement. This sort of assembly involves the use of right-angle gearing solutions (such as bevel gears), adding an unexpected degree of complexity to this artisanal time-only movement.

The ruby cone works with a ruby follower, which reads the remaining power reserve off the cone’s sloped surface. As the cone moves up and down, its radius at the follower changes, causing the power reserve hand to move. Usually made of polished steel, the ruby cone stands out, being similar that used in the Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2.

In terms of finishing, the L’Impétrant doesn’t disappoint, being the product of a who’s who of independent artisans including Philippe Narbel and Severine Vitali. Likewise, the model name is hand-engraved by the talented artisan Eddy Jaquet.

There are opulent gold settings for the jewels and hand-finished anglage on the brushed steel components. The ruthenium-plated frosted baseplate offers a matte texture against which the polished surfaces gleam.

Key Facts and Price

Stéphane Pierre L’Impétrant

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 10.8 mm
Material: Grade 23 titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Unknown

Movement: In-house developed movement
Features: Retrograde hours and minutes, small seconds and power reserve indicator on the case back side
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Hand-wound
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Calf leather strap with matching titanium clasp

Limited edition: 15-piece souscription series followed by regular production
Availability: Directly from Stéphane Pierre
Price: CHF84,000 (~US$105,000) before taxes

For more, visit @stephanepierrewatches on Instagram.

Exhibiting at Watches & Wonders in Geneva for the first time, Seiko’s high-end marque Credor is rolling out the Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon Engraved (ref. GBCF997).

While the latest Credor is only a cosmetic variation of an existing model, but the latest Goldfeather Tourbillon is nonetheless a top-of-the-line model in both technical and decorative terms: the ultra-slim movement features a tourbillon, while the dial and movement are hand engraved.

The hand-engraved cal. 6850

Initial thoughts

Though this year’s Goldfeather Tourbillon is identical to last year’s edition save for decor, it looks strikingly different, underlining the different decorative techniques employed. While last year’s model was ornate and figurative, the latest version is clean and almost monochromatic.

The lack of colour belies the complexity of the dial decoration. The entire dial is engraved, right down to the radial graining. Instead of conventional brushing, the radial pattern is achieved with a manual engraving technique.

The stylistic different continues onto the movement, which is equally finely decorated, and also impressively slim. While the strength of the artisanal execution and ultra-thin watchmaking are obvious, the Goldfeather Tourbillon is fundamentally a facelift to a movement that’s been around for a long time. To go as far as its sister brand Grand Seiko, Credor would have to do something more novel.

Fine lines

The Goldfeather Tourbillon Engraved is self descriptive: it is all about engraving. The engraving on the dial and movement is almost entirely comprised of lines of varying widths and dots of different diameters, yet the result is nuanced and vivid.

The two piece dial is finished with a fine linear engraving in a radial pattern, giving it the appearance of a conventional brushed dial, at least at a distance. The Roman numerals are similarly hand engraved, as are the dots for the minute scale.

The bridges of the ultra-thin cal. 6850 are finished with similar techniques. A range of lines and dots cover the bridges in a radial arrangement, creating a sense of motion originating from the tourbillon.

As with Credor’s other extra-thin watches, engraving the bridges is especially challenging due to the slimness of the parts, which are as thin as 0.25 mm. The bridges are set in a specially designed vice and then engraved to ensure flatness is preserved; even the slightest distortion of the bridge will result in a misaligned pivot.

Aesthetics aside, this Goldfeather Tourbillon is identical to last year’s model, being the same slim platinum specimen that’s just 8.6 mm high.

Key facts and price

Seiko Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon Engraved
Ref. GBCF997

Diameter: 38.6 mm
Height: 8.6 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 6850
Functions: Hours, minutes, and tourbillon
Winding: Manual wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Crocodile strap with double fold clasp in platinum

Limited edition: 25 pieces
Availability: At Credor retailers starting August 2026
Price:

For more, visit credor.com

In the run-up to Watches & Wonders, a new crop of emergent independents is making its debut. But even within a crowded field, the Cleguer Inspiration One manages to stand out with an ambitious proprietary escapement and clever construction. It’s a promising start for founder Mathieu Cleguer, an engineer who’s had a hand in developing several calibres for well-known independent brands.

Initial thoughts

The artisanal, highly finished time-only watch is a well-worn trope among independents, but occasionally one breaks from the pattern. The Inspiration One from Cleguer Horology is one such watch. Mathieu Cleguer is an industry veteran who has worked as a movement construction consultant and now produces watches under his own name.

The opening salvo in what is planned to be a larger ‘Inspiration’ series designed to explore alternative escapements, the Inspiration One is built around the so-called innate escapement, a fresh twist on Breguet’s natural escapement.

The system is Mathieu Cleguer’s own design, and from initial analysis it exhibits a surprising degree of ingenuity and is original in its execution.

Discreet signature on the interior bezel.

The open design — an off-centre dial with exposed escapement — is a familiar arrangement among independents, but the delicacy of the components gives it a refined quality. The 38.5 mm case is well-proportioned, though the 12 mm height borders on tall.

While there’s room to develop a more cohesive design language going forward, particularly in consolidating the elements on the dial, there are some promising details. The logo, for example, is a reference to Cleguer’s native Brittany, where this Blason de Bretagne motif is part of the region’s cultural identity.

The initial souscription series of 12 pieces was cased in titanium, and is already sold out with deliveries planned for late 2026. Cleguer will then produce 48 pieces in a range of precious metals, along with capacity for 20 unique commissions. In precious metal, the Inspiration One is priced at CHF95,300 — somewhat high for a time-only watch, but a good value considering the intellectual value of the proprietary escapement.

The innate escapement

In keeping an in-depth analysis of the innate escapement for a future story, we can still stick to the basics and discuss a few core traits of this novel system.

Glimpses of the innate escapement

Mathieu Cleguer cites both the Breguet natural and the Fasoldt chronometer escapements as inspirations behind his design. The mirrored double-escape wheel system is clearly a descendant of the Breguet concept, while the imparting of impulse is tangentially done through a multi-functional lever — much like in Charles Fasoldt’s chronometer.

The system has a number of subtleties, but it can be best described as a a double-wheel, indirect-tangential impulse escapement. The same description applies to the Rolex Dynapulse too — making Cleguer’s innate escapement functionally identical to the Rolex’s advanced mechanism.

That said, the execution of Cleguer’s innate escapement is very different from that of the high-tech Dynapulse, as the artisanal watchmaker resorted to a quintessentially traditional construction, with steel chronometer-like escape wheels and ruby impulse and locking stones. The innate escapement is rather clever in several ways, and will be the subject of an in-depth future story.

Solid engineering and solid finishing

Powering the Inspiration One is the appropriately named calibre I1, a carefully finished movement that is also well-engineered. The open architecture is now a familiar choice among independents, minimising the dial’s footprint while exposing as much of the mechanics as possible.

The Inspiration One is decidedly openworked, with a small off-centre dial positioned at roughly 2:30. Against the champlevé grand feu enamel, two stubby hand-finished hands repeat the Blason de Bretagne motif featured in the logo.

In contrast, the long and slender central seconds hand ticks in deliberate steps toward the chronometrically oriented escapement, which beats at a classical 2.5 Hz.

The dial side is deliberately asymmetric: part of the barrel drum is visible behind the small dial, while the exposed balance wheel floats in isolation at 7:30. A small power reserve indicator peers from beneath the barrel, adding to the movement’s strongly layered construction.

The oscillator is slow-beating but extremely well-crafted, being free-sprung and paired to a blued Breguet overcoil hairspring. All in all, it’s a worthy oscillator for the innate escapement, which sits largely hidden underneath.

The movement is equally impressive on the case back-side, starting with the large barrel click-wheel, which directly incorporates a Maltese cross stop-work. Mr Cleguer argues that only the chronometric portion of the reserve should be used — a philosophy shared by makers such as Roger Smith and Charles Frodsham, which also limit the power reserve to 36 hours to encourage a habit of daily winding.

The Inspiration One is richly finished, as the pricing demands. The predominant technique is soft graining, with the movement’s layered architecture creating a pleasing play of textures. Steel components are mirror polished throughout, with rounded bevels applied wherever the geometry allows.

The click wheel receives particular attention, combining solarisation with sharply bevelled and polished ratchet teeth. The driving wheels of the innate escapement are held in place by a black-polished steel bridge — a construction that brings constant motion to the rear of the calibre.

Key facts and price

Cleguer Horology Inspiration One
Ref. I1

Diameter: 38.5 mm
Height: 12 mm
Material: Souscription in titanium; choice of precious metals available for future series
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: I1
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds power reserve and innate escapement
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 36 hours

Strap: Leather strap with matching buckle

Limited edition: Yes, 12-piece souscription sold-out; total production of 80 pieces.
Availability: Directly from Cleguer.
Price: CHF95,300 excluding taxes

For more information, visit cleguer.com.

Building on the success of its retro wristwatch, Raymond Weil is marking its 50th anniversary with the Millesime “The Fifty”. While it retains the familiar “sector” dial of the Millesime, the Fifty boasts upgraded mechanics in the form of a “new old stock” Valjoux 236 dating from 1976, the year of brand’s founding by the eponymous Raymond Weil.

The Fifty combines the vintage movement with a thoughtful design that includes an appropriately sized 37 mm case – steel but with a white gold bezel no less – and novel texturing on the “sector” dial. Notably, the Fifty is also priced well at under CHF9,000.

Initial thoughts

The base model Millesime is good for what it is, combining an appealing design with an affordable price. The Fifty is more expensive, but arguably even better, because it still has an appealing aesthetic, but now with an excellent movement and a fair price.

Watches powered by a vintage Valjoux 23 usually cost more – Singer Reimagined’s equivalent costs almost double – making the Fifty a good value proposition. And it certainly doesn’t hurt that it evokes the Patek Philippe ref. 1436 “Tasti Tondi”.

But it’s more than just accessible; the design of the basic Millesime has been elaborated on in a concise and logical manner. The result is a watch that clearly resembles the standard model, but with finer details, including the linear patterning on the dial centre.

I disagree with some minor details, like the luminous hands that don’t match the luminous dial, but overall the Fifty is executed well and priced right. Raymond Weil started on the right track with the original, time-only Millesime, and is continuing in the right direction.

Marking fifty years in style

The Fifty is, appropriately enough, limited to 50 pieces. It’s a fine way of marking the brand’s 50th anniversary, and also something of a proclamation that Raymond Weil is now a more interesting brand than it was not too long ago.

The Fifty adopts the standard Millesime case, now matched with correct “pump” pushers. The case is 37 mm and steel, except for the bezel, which is 18k white gold – an impressive extra given the price of the watch and today’s gold price.

Similarly, the dial takes the design of the standard Millesime but does one better. It’s made up of four parts with a variety of finishes, including a stamped “tapestry” pattern in the centre and a grained finish on the chapter ring. Interestingly, the baton hour markers are black Super-Luminova, which preserves the vintage style of the dial but ends up being a poor match for the hands that contain conventional white Super-Luminova.

The Valjoux cal. 236 inside the Fifty dates to 1975 according to Raymond Weil. The original calibre was a high quality but workmanlike movement, but by modern standards it would be considered high end given its classical construction.

The movement here has been dressed up for the occasion, most notably with the balance cock and chronograph bridge in black ruthenium plating, giving them a contrasting finish against the rest of the movement.

Raymond Weil also notes the movement has been finished by hand, with both the bevelling and countersinks polished by hand. This is commendable, but even if the movement was decorated to a basic standard, the Fifty would still offer decent value.

Key facts and price

Raymond Weil Millesime The Fifty 37 mm
Ref. 1976-STC-65001

Diameter: 37 mm
Height: 10.75 mm
Material: Stainless steel with 18k white gold bezel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: RW1976 (Valjoux 236)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph
Winding: Manual wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Calfskin leather strap

Limited edition: 50 pieces
Availability: Now at Raymond Weil boutiques and retailers
Price: CHF8,650

For more, visit Raymond-weil.com.

Breguet refreshes its Tradition collection for 2026 with new colourways and expanded grand feu enamel dial options across five references, building on the momentum of the brand’s 250th anniversary year. The line-up spans four automatic variants of the Seconde Rétrograde and one manually wound GMT, all underpinned by the architecturally distinctive cal. 505 that has defined the collection since its 2005 introduction.

Initial thoughts

Inspired by an original Abraham-Louis Breguet’s montres à tact pocket watch from the late 18th century, the Tradition collection, released in 2005, was Breguet’s first major new model family under Swatch Group management.

The central barrel placement and unusual gear train arrangement perfectly captures the essence of the original pocket watches, and this aspect of the design remains as recognisable and distinctive as ever, despite the a growing number of independent watchmakers that have introduced watches with a similar layout.

In fact, the cal. 505 is so successful as a contemporary interpretation of Breguet’s work that a variation of it was adapted for use in the award-winning Classique Souscription 2025 introduced last year. For 2026, the Tradition collection has been slightly refreshed with modern colourways and more grand feu enamel dial options.

The five new models include four automatic variants of the Seconde Rétrograde, one of which features a diamond-set bezel, and one manually wound reference with a dual-time complication. Breguet carries a lot of momentum into 2026, coming off the brand’s 250th anniversary last year.

Perhaps for that reason, all five references are ambitiously priced for their level of complication. The platinum Tradition GMT 7067, for example, is priced 44% higher than the 18k white gold ref. 7067BB/G1/9W6, which is functionally identical.

Grand feu galore

The core configuration of the current crop of Tradition models is the Seconde Rétrograde, which features its namesake complication near the traditional 10 o’clock position. The smaller references, the 38 mm 7037 and 37 mm 7038, feature the running seconds scale engraved directly on the mainplate of the movement. The larger 40 mm 7097 makes room for a standalone scale made from grand feu enamel, just like its dial.

Enamel is a historically accurate dial material for the Tradition, having been used in this configuration by A-L Breguet himself. But the founder would likely not have foreseen a green enamel dial, like that found on the dual-time 7067. He would, however, recognise his movement design and the hands and numerals that now bear his name.

Materials fit for a queen

Another detail that replicates Breguet’s early work with historical fidelity is the anchor-shaped winding mass used by all but one of the automatic models. While the full rotation might surprise him, the choice of high-density platinum would not — he famously used the same material for his own high-grade perpétuelles, including No. 160, long-known as the Marie Antoinette.

The odd one out is the diamond-set 7038, which features a fan-shaped rotor decorated with guilloche. This model also features a synthetic ruby watch jewel as a twist on the typical cabochon.

Finishing

Regardless of complication and colourway, each Tradition model exhibits the same degree of high-end craftsmanship. The plates and most bridges are finely frosted, though the tops of the dial-side finger bridges now feature straight-graining, as first seen on the anniversary Tradition 7035 released last year.

Stylistically, the contemporary colour palette is somewhat at odds with the antiquated movement construction and traditional theme of the collection, but there’s no question that the quality of the finishing is competitive at the upper reaches of the industrial-haute horlogerie segment.

A warm weather-friendly GMT

Breguet may have been thinking about increasing its appeal in key Middle Eastern markets with the optional Eastern Arabic version of the Tradition GMT 7067. That might also explain the rationale for offering what’s ostensibly a dress watch on a warm weather-friendly rubber strap — a first for the model.

Breguet actually has a long history of using Eastern Arabic numerals, having built numerous watches with this style of typeface for the Ottoman market in the early 19th century.

Regardless, Eastern Arabic numerals are a calling card of the enthusiast community and, aesthetically, their use creates an appealing tension with the traditional (no pun intended) Breguet numerals used on the primary dial, which has been rendered in green grand feu enamel.

The 7067 is the only new manually wound variant of the tradition, which explains its relative slimness, being about 0.5 mm thinner than the time-only automatic 7037, despite its second time zone display at eight o’clock and day/night indicator above it. The black-coated bridges contrast sharply with the silver-coloured wheels, and the case back benefits from a discreet power reserve indicator.

Key facts and price

Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7037
Ref. 7037BB/YB/5V6 (white gold/blue)
Ref. 7037PT/N9/5V6 (platinum/black)

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 12.7 mm
Material: 18k white gold or platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 505 SR
Functions: Hours, minutes, retrograde seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Embossed rubber with matching pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Breguet boutiques and retailers
Price: US$59,700 (white gold), $65,700 (platinum) excluding taxes

Breguet Tradition GMT 7067
Ref. 7067PT/NM/5W6

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 12.1 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 507 DRF
Functions: Hours, minutes, second time zone, day/night indicator, power reserve
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Embossed rubber with matching pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Breguet boutiques and retailers
Price: US$82,900 excluding taxes

Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7038
Ref. 7038BB/N9/7V6 D0

Diameter: 37 mm
Height: 11.6 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 505 SR
Functions: Hours, minutes, retrograde seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Satin-finish textile strap with matching pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Breguet boutiques and retailers
Price: US$66,800 excluding taxes

Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7097
Ref. 7097BR/GB/3WU

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.8 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 505 SR1
Functions: Hours, minutes, retrograde seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Calfskin strap with matching pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Breguet boutiques and retailers
Price: US$57,100 excluding taxes

For more information, visit Breguet.com.