TAG Heuer’s flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2025 is the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1, a tribute to the brand’s storied Formula 1 history. This striking timepiece features a white ceramic case that dispenses with a traditional metallic inner container in a departure from technical norms in construction.

A red translucent dial reveal the mechanics below, while the chronograph counters — finished with an asphalt-like texture,white and yellow grid markings, and official F1 typography — proudly display British F1 commentator David Croft’s famous phrase: “Lights Out & Away We Go.”

Initial thoughts

At first glance, the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1 may appear to be just another Formula 1–inspired watch. However, a closer look reveals the subtle yet distinctive details that set it apart from its competitors. Rather than relying on overt F1 motifs, it integrates refined elements—such as the checkered-flag pattern—that showcase its superb craftsmanship and elevate it above other racing-inspired chronographs.

Priced at CHF155,000, the Monaco may initially appear costly, particularly given TAG Heuer’s history of being more accessible.

Yet, beyond the brand’s heritage lies a timepiece whose exceptional craftsmanship more than warrants its price tag. It is a Vaucher-powered rattrapante chronograph, and this version is unquestionably the most appealing of the iterations to date. And the Formula 1–inspired touches are thoughtfully integrated, and the white ceramic case is a true testament to materials mastery.

F1-inspired

The 41 mm white ceramic case is meticulously hand-finished and provides water resistance of up to 30 meters. The Monaco incorporates several Formula 1-inspired details, including chronograph counters with an asphalt-like texture and official F1 typography.

This influence continues through to the split-seconds chronograph Calibre TH81-00 movement, which features hand-finished bevels and black mirror-polished screws. Its brushed, bi-directional rotor—shaped like the TAG Heuer shield—displays a hand-painted white and red kerb-inspired design, while the center bridge reveals a fully handmade checked-flag pattern.

Key facts and price

TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1
Ref. CBW2190.FC8356

Case diameter: 41 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: White ceramic
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. TH81-00
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and split-seconds chronograph
Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: White calf skin strap with folding buckle

Limited edition: 10 pieces
Availability: Now at TAG Heuer retailers and boutiques
Price: CHF155,000 before taxes

For more, visit Tagheuer.com.

Known for good looks and good value, Nomos has just introduced a new version of its popular dual-time complication, the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer. Thanks in part to the new DUW 3202 automatic movement, the Worldtimer offers a rare combination of functionality, robustness, and slimness.

Available in two colourways, dark blue or silver, the latter with a ‘Pepsi’ home time scale, the Worldtimer comes on a stainless steel bracelet and is rated to 100 m, making it quite versatile.

Initial thoughts

I have a soft spot for Nomos, and I like the brand’s unique approach to making sporty watches. Instead of going after the usual macho design cues like dive bezels and tachymeters, the brand has instead taken its signature Bauhaus-inspired design and just bulked it up a bit. This approach resulted in the Club Sport collection, and I was immediately intrigued to see this line-up expand to include the Worldtimer.

Key to the Worldtimer’s appeal are its dimensions, which measure a compact 40 mm by 9.9 mm. That makes it quite thin for a dual-time watch, but despite its slim form it still manages a full 100 m of water resistance. And for added security, the crown features a red anodised ring to alert the owner when the crown has been left unscrewed.

The stainless steel case is paired with a simple three-link bracelet that is quite bland and probably the weakest element of the design.

The dial features a central disc with a sunray finish in either silver or dark blue, surrounded by the city disc. Home time is indicated on a 24-hour sub-dial at three o’clock, with noon appropriately shown at the top of the dial.

While I prefer the look of the dark blue model, the blue and red scale on the silver variant’s home time dial could be seen as a cheeky homage to the category leader.

The Worldtimer is powered by the DUW 3202, which marries the brand’s slim Neomatik base movement with its signature worldtimer module. The result is a new dual-time movement just 4.8 mm thick, thinner than most peers and nearly a full millimeter thinner than the DUW 5201 in the Zürich Worldtimer, while retaining all of its functionality.

Nomos has always had a good reputation for value, but the Zürich Worldtimer is among the brand’s most expensive models. That’s part of what makes the value proposition of the this Club Sport Worldtimer so interesting; at US$4,720, it’s priced significantly lower than the Zürich, while managing to be both thinner and more water resistant. At a time when retail prices seem to be going in only one direction, the Club Sport Worldtimer bucks the trend.

A functional approach

I’ve always liked Nomos’ unusual take on the world time complication, which debuted 15 years ago in the Zürich collection. Essentially a dressed up GMT, it features a main time display with an hour hand that is synchronized to a peripheral city disc, along with a 24-hour home time display.

This approach combines aspects of a typical world timer, which indicates time in multiple time zones simultaneously, and a dual-time function, which only displays local and home time. The functionality of the Nomos is enhanced with a pusher at two o’clock that advances the hour hand and the city disc simultaneously in one-hour increments.

Flying from London to Athens? Just hit the pusher twice when you land and you’re done. What if you’re flying west? Well, the Nomos approach lacks a date, so it’s just a matter of a few more presses of the pusher until the correct city is displayed at 12 o’clock.

I personally like this approach, even if the city disc is arguably extraneous. I don’t miss the date, and the simple pusher for advancing the hour is a far more appealing proposition than using the screw-down crown.

In the Club Sport Worldtimer, the dial is given some additional GMT offset markings that one could argue make it more of a true ‘world time’ complication, but mechanically it remains a dual-time watch.

The recessed case pusher is used to synchronise the city disc to the local time hour hand. Once set, the time can be adjusted in one-hour increments using the pusher at two o’clock.

A slim dual-time caliber

The Club Sport Worldtimer succeeds in part due to its dimensions, specifically its sub-10 mm thickness. That it manages to be a full millimeter thinner than the Zürich is credit to the new DUW 3202 movement, which pairs the well-known Neomatik platform with a variant of the brand’s world time module.

The movement runs for 42 hours while ticking at 3.5 Hz, which is a bit low and slow compared to the usual suspects, but it offers a pleasing architecture with a full balance bridge, and is finished attractively with tidy perlage, clean striping, and blued screws.

Key facts and price

Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer
Ref. 790 (blue)
Ref. 791 (silver)

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 9.9 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: DUW 3202
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, second time zone
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Stainless steel bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Nomos boutiques and retailers
Price: US$4,720 excluding tax

For more, visit Nomos-glashuette.com

For the first time since 1998, and for only the second time in the nearly 100-year history of its most iconic model, Jaeger-LeCoultre has squeezed a world timer into the Reverso. The result is the Reverso Tribute Geographic, which features a demure primary dial with an outsize date on one side and an exquisite world time display on the other.

The Geographic is available in a stainless steel case with a blue dial or as part of a 150-piece limited edition in 18k rose gold featuring a chocolate brown dial. Both models share the same dimensions, which are unfortunately a bit on the large side.

Initial thoughts

There’s a lot to like about the Reverso Geographic. Reversos like this that hide a complication on the second dial are deeply appealing to me, and carry with them the thrill of keeping a secret. It also gives the watch a split personality, enabling the wearer to choose the dial that matches their mood.

While I immediately liked the concept of the Geographic, I was slightly disappointed to see the dimensions, which match those of the Reverso Tribute Chronograph launched in 2023.

At 49.4 mm long by 29.9 mm wide, the Geographic is among the larger Reversos, meaning it loses some of the intended vintage charm. That said, the size is a consequence of its functionality – a smaller case size would make the world time display unreasonably small.

One of the things I liked about the Tribute Chronograph that also applies to the Geographic is the fact that it’s very much a sleeper in the sense that at first glance there’s nothing to suggest it’s anything more than a simple Reverso (other than perhaps the size).

The primary dial features a simple sunburst finish in navy blue or chocolate, for the steel and rose gold models, respectively. Things don’t get interesting until you flip the watch over, revealing a Cottier-style world time display with a laser-engraved and hand-enameled map in its center.

The Geographic is powered by the new cal. 834. The technical specs (manual winding, 4 Hz rate, and 42-hour power reserve) suggest it shares architecture with other Reverso models, but it features an integrated world time complication and a new, patented big date mechanism.

Jaeger-LeCoultre has lost some if its sterling reputation for value in recent years. The Geographic retails for €19,000 in steel, which is decent value-wise. It will no doubt appeal to fans of the Reverso and those looking for an interesting and unexpected world timer.

Around the world

Simply put, the world time display is gorgeous. The focal point is the enameled world map at its center, which features 141 laser-cut hollows depicting the world’s oceans as seen from the north pole. Each hollow has been enameled by hand using a syringe, with the dark blue enamel representing water.

The longitude lines of the map line up with the city names engraved around the edge of the dial. Since the map and city disk are fixed, the city names are oriented mostly upright, improving legibility.

The 24-hour ring rotates clockwise between them, with day and night hours coloured light and navy blue, respectively. The time zone ring rotates continuously, but can be set in one-hour increments using a discreet pusher at the top of the case. Due to its striking looks, I can imagine owners of this watch wearing it with the world time display facing up a significant portion of the time.

But part of what makes the world time display so striking is its size, which results in the only major weakness of the Geographic: its large case.

Since the proportions of the Reverso are largely fixed, the width of the case directly impacts its length. The Cottier-style world time display, originally designed for round watches, takes up all the width of the case and then some, with some of the city names curving over the case edge.

Integrated world time movement

The Reverso Geographic is powered by the new cal. 834. Part of what makes the movement new is the fully integrated world time display; by opting for an integrated design rather than a module, the designers were able to keep thickness to a minimum.

In addition to the world time readout, the cal. 834 features a patented big date mechanism on the primary dial. This mechanism was updated in 2021, and was engineered from the ground up for the Reverso’s iconic rectangular case using side-by-side date discs on the same plane, a design that improves the elegance and legibility of the date display.

The hours and minutes are set via the crown, while the date is advanced via a recessed case pusher next to the crown (don’t lose that stylus). The relationship between the primary time display and the world time can be adjusted in one hour increments using a concealed pusher at the top of the case, keeping the case lines clean and continuous.

Key Facts and Price

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic
Ref. Q714845J (steel)
Ref. Q714256J (18k pink gold)

Diameter: 49.4 mm x 29.9 mm
Height: 11.14 mm
Material: Steel or 18k pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 834
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, big date, and world time
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours
Strap: Casa Fagliano calfskin leather and canvas-and-calfskin straps included

Limited edition: Ref. Q714256J (18k pink gold) limited to 150 pieces
Availability: At boutiques only
Price: €19,000 in steel, including VAT

For more, visit Jaeger-lecoultre.com.

The anniversary celebrations continue at Vacheron Constantin, which has introduced 270th anniversary versions of the Patrimony Self-Winding and Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date featuring asymmetric guilloche-style dials depicting the Maltese Cross.

Both models are part of Vacheron Constantin (VC)’s 270th anniversary collection, with the simple automatic limited to 370 pieces each in either 18k white or rose gold, while the retrograde date limited to just 270 pieces in each metal.

Initial thoughts

This watch is all about its dial, which it shares with the Traditionnelle. I liked the look immediately, which is subtle yet appropriately self-referential for such an occasion.

I often find the Patrimony to wear on the large side, given the expansive dial and slim bezel, but in this case I think the asymmetry of the dial design helps shrink the watch visually.

The Patrimony Self-Winding duo

Both references stick to roughly the same dimensions of their standard production counterparts, 40 mm by 8.65 mm thick for the simple automatic, and 42.5 mm by 9.7 mm for the retrograde date.

Both sets of figures are on the larger end of the spectrum for dress watches, but this sizing should work well to highlight the special dial.

Despite their functional differences, both models share the same automatic base caliber from the cal. 24xx movement family, which is configured either for central seconds or to accommodate the retrograde date mechanism.

This 4 Hz movement platform has a relatively limited 40 hours of power reserve, but evidently offers very stable torque as it is often used to power additional complications.

With a pricing that’s about 15% above the equivalent standard-production models, these are is ordinary value as such things go.

In any case, for those in the market for a Patrimony, the interesting dial is probably worth the splurge.

The retrograde date

The retrograde date is arguably the pick of the litter, given both its fine execution and the importance of this complication to VC’s visual identity. The brand has a long history with retrograde displays, and it’s become a staple complication with the Patrimony range.

An especially appealing aspect of the retrograde date is the hand set and moon phase disc, which are simple yet subtly detailed. The hour and minute hands, for example, are faceted along their length, and the moon phase is rendered in textured, case-matching gold.

But the real highlight, naturally, is the embossed Maltese Cross emblem at 7:30, and the intersecting lines that radiate from it. This detail is shared across the anniversary collection, but the larger sizing of the retrograde date gives the pattern more room to breathe, adding to its impact.

Anniversary automatic

For those who prefer a smaller footprint, the 40 mm Patrimony automatic offers center seconds and a simple date guichet at six o’clock. Here the Maltese Cross dial design takes center stage, without as many extraneous markings to distract from the pattern.

The pattern helps reveal an intriguing detail of the Patrimony range, which is the slightly domed dial. Once fairly common in watchmaking, domed dials are now quite rare, given them a certain vintage charm that is missing from most modern watches.

Anniversary automatic

Both Patrimony models share the same movement platform, and like other anniversary editions, have been finished with a simple, austere treatment similar to solarisation. Termed ‘côte unique,’ the finish involves techniques that were rediscovered during the brand’s restoration of the American 1921.

But the distinctive finish is less obvious here compared to the manually wound Traditionnelle, which offers an unobstructed view of the bridges. The Patrimony models are both automatic, and the solid gold winding mass contributes to a more typical overall appearance.

That’s not a bad thing, as both models leverage the cal. 2450/2460 series movement, which is VC’s top-shelf automatic used in everything from the 222 to the Copernicus Celestial Spheres.

While the specs on paper are pretty ordinary, and the 40-hour power reserve is comparatively short, the movement is nonetheless beautifully finished and carries the Geneva Seal.

A nice detail on the anniversary edition is the ‘270’ emblem engraved proudly beside the Poinçon de Genève.

Key Facts and Price

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date
Ref. 4010U/000G-H057 (18k white gold)
Ref. 4010U/000G-H117 (18k rose gold)

Diameter: 42.5 mm
Height: 9.7 mm
Material: 18k white or rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 2460 R31L/270
Functions: Hours, minutes, retrograde date, and moon phase
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: 270 pieces in each metal
Availability: At Vacheron Constantin boutiques only
Price: US$53,000

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding 
Ref. 85180/000G-H035 (18k white gold)
Ref. 85180/000G-H116 (18k rose gold)

Case diameter: 40 mm
Case height: 8.65 mm
Material: 18k white or rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 2450 Q6/270
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: 370 pieces in each metal
Availability: At Vacheron Constantin boutiques only
Price: US$34,700

For more, visit vacheron-constantin.com.

Vacheron Constantin is marking its 270th birthday in style with a clever limited edition of the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding featuring a unique dial pattern that depicts the brand’s emblematic Maltese Cross.

In total, 740 pieces will be made, with production split evenly between the platinum and 18k rose gold editions.

Initial thoughts

The 38 mm Traditionnelle has long been a staple (and fan favourite) within the Vacheron Constantin (VC) catalogue. Over the years we’ve seen numerous limited editions for specific boutiques and the brand has even made one-off pieces for its best customers. So it makes sense that VC would return to this watch as part of its milestone 270th birthday.

On paper, the anniversary edition is classic Traditionnelle, featuring the model’s goldilocks proportions of 38 mm by 7.77 mm. One of my favourite characteristics of this watch, and the Traditionnelle collection more broadly, is VC’s unique take on the Dauphine-style hands, which are divided along their length into polished and frosted sections. This touch catches the light in a truly special way, and brings a great deal of life to the dial.

The Traditionnelle is powered by the well-known cal. 4400, but it’s dressed up with special ‘côte unique’ finishing for this anniversary edition. It’s an interesting choice, being more muted in its appearance than typical Genevois finishing.

The only other difference between the anniversary Traditionnelle and the regular production models is the dial, which brings a welcome degree of asymmetry to what is otherwise a very symmetrical design. Featuring the Maltese Cross emblem at 7:30, the dial is dressed up with an embossed, guilloche-style pattern that extends across the dial.

While priced at about a 10% premium relative to the regular production models, the fancy dial is a meaningful addition that should appeal to fans of the brand and those looking for a dress watch with a little extra personality.

A remarkable dial

Movement finish aside, the anniversary Traditionnelle is all about its dial, which is embossed with the brand’s signature Maltese Cross emblem at 7:30. This symbol serves as the origin point for a series of intersecting parallel lines that create a a pleasing, asymmetric pattern across the entire dial surface.

VC has produced guilloche editions of the Traditionnelle before, but to-date none have been as visually dramatic as the 270th anniversary edition. It’s unapologetically self-referential, yet subtle. By placing the pattern’s origin point at the edge of the dial, the designers created room on the upper half of the dial for the eye to rest, preventing the design from becoming overwhelming.

Familiar movement with a new look

The Traditionnelle feature’s the brand’s well-known cal. 4400 movement, which ticks at a robust 4 Hz and runs for 65 hours from a single mainspring barrel.

Often cited as one of the most well-finished movements in its class, the cal. 4400 qualifies for the Poinçon de Genève, or Geneva Seal, and benefits from several hand-finished details like gleaming anglage and black polished steel locking plates for the stud holder and Triovis regulator.

Termed ‘côte unique,’ the finish requires techniques that had been lost to time until VC undertook the task of remaking the the American 1921 in 2021. While I slightly prefer the typical Geneva stripes to which I’ve become accustomed, the special finish helps distinguish the 270th anniversary edition from its brethren.

The cal. 4400 with normal finishing as seen in the Traditionnelle ref. 82172

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding
Ref. 82172/000P-H062 (platinum)
Ref. 82172/000P-H118 (18k rose gold)

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 7.77 mm
Material: Platinum or 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 4400 AS/270
Features: Hours, minutes, and small seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Manual wind
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: 370 pieces in each metal
Availability: At Vacheron Constantin boutiques only
Price: US$36,300 in platinum; US$26,100 in rose gold

For more, visit vacheron-constantin.com.

Among the new releases from A. Lange & Söhne this year, the blue-dialed 1815 34 mm might be the most surprising. Lange has a well-earned reputation for making chunky, complicated watches, but watches like this show the brand has good instincts when it comes to the opposite end of the spectrum and is equally capable of making simple, graceful watches.

Available in 18k white or rose gold, the 1815 34 mm is a not a limited edition, and it is an alternative entry-level model in addition to the Saxonia Thin. Despite its simplicity, the 1815 is equipped with an all-new movement, the L152.1.

Initial thoughts

I’d argue few brands are as committed to understatement as Lange, and this watch is a testament to that. While there’s been an undeniable trend toward smaller, thinner watches in recent years, 34 mm is aggressively small, which makes it a statement of sorts; it’s the polar opposite of the big ostentatious watches that are all-too common. Candidly, a 34 mm watch is not for everyone, but that’s kind of the point.

The key difference between this new 1815 and those we’ve come to know is its diminutive 34 mm case, which makes it the smallest 1815 to-date, matching the diameter of the original Saxonia.

In fact, at just 5.9 mm thick, it’s the smallest watch Lange has ever made. But despite its small size, the new 1815 retains the brand’s signature faceted lugs and brushed case band. The movement fills the case neatly, and even though the case back is slim, it still features the deep engravings for which Lange is known.

Speaking of the movement, it’s new, and happens to be the brand’s 75th manufacture caliber. But even if the L152.1 movement designation is new, it’s a traditional Lange movement through-and-through, beating at 3.5 Hz for 72 hours on a full wind.

Unlike the very similar L093.1 in the Saxonia Thin, the L152.1’s three-quarter plate conceals the ratchet wheel, creating plenty of space to showcase the glorious striping.

The blue dial has also become something of a Lange signature, considered iconic enough to celebrate the Datograph’s 25th birthday last year. Warm and satiny, the blue pairs especially well with rose gold. Moreover, the blue-dial 1815 harks back to one of the earliest Lange models dating all the way back to 1998, the ref. 206.027.

In terms of pricing, exact numbers have yet to be announced but I’d assume it will land around the US$25,000 mark. Value is relative, and for those looking for a dress watch in this size, there’s not a lot out there to cross-shop. In fact, the most likely alternatives are probably small Calatravas like the refs. 3796 and 3919 made by Patek Philippe during the 1980s and 1990s.

Teutonic understatement

For a watch that breaks with convention on sizing and features a new in-house caliber, there’s surprisingly little that’s new about the 34 mm 1815. The case design, dial layout, and construction carry over directly from its larger stablemates, leaving the blue dial and small case to stand out.

That said, it’s simply a beautiful watch, especially in pink gold, which helps bring out the tones of the blue dial. Like most Lange dials, the dial itself is made of sterling silver which has been galvanised to achieve its colour. The dial is paired with a set of alpha-style hands, another Lange signature, made of 18k gold.

The 75th Lange caliber

One of the things I love about Lange is they rarely miss a chance to introduce a new movement. The new L152.1 is the brand’s 75th manufacture caliber since its debut in 1994.

While not groundbreaking in its architecture, it offers all the hallmarks that Lange collectors know and love, from the hand-engraved balance cock to the famous three-quarter plate presentation. Worth noting is the balance spring, which is made in-house; a rarity even in today’s increasingly vertically integrated watch industry.

The spec sheet will look familiar to anyone who follows the brand closely. It’s manually wound, ticks at 3.5 Hz, runs for 72 hours on a full wind, and features hacking seconds.

The movement is exceptionally thin at just 2.9 mm thick, which puts it in a tie with the L093.1 found in the Saxonia Thin as the brand’s thinnest movement ever. But the old L093.1 is 0.7 mm wider in diameter than the new caliber, which measures 28.1 mm.

Interestingly, the movement designation indicates the movement began development in 2015. Given the overall simplicity of the movement, the decade-long gap likely has more to do with the brand’s long-term thinking than anything else.

Key facts and price

A. Lange & Söhne 1815
Ref. 220.028 (18k white gold)
Ref. 220.037 (18k pink gold)

Diameter: 34 mm
Height: 6.4 mm
Material: 18k white or pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: 30m

Movement: L152.1
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Hand-wound
Frequency: 21,600 bph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Alligator with matching pin buckle

Limited Edition: No
Availability: At A. Lange & Söhne boutiques and retailers
Price: US$24,500

For more, visit alange-soehne.com.

Topping A. Lange & Söhne’s 2025 line-up is the Minute Repeater Perpetual. Featuring a compact platinum case and black enamel dial, the new flagship watch of the Saxonia line marks the first time Lange has combined these two classic complications on their own.

Limited to 50 pieces in platinum, the Repeater Perpetual is positioned near the top of the current catalogue. Beyond the technical complexity, it’s been endowed with an exceptional white gold and black enamel dial crafted in-house, and features the frosted movement finish that’s often reserved for the brand’s special editions.

Initial thoughts

It’s always nice to see a brand cover new ground, especially when that ground is the tried-and-true combination of a minute repeater and perpetual calendar. It’s an extravagant, decadent watch that combines one of the most legible perpetual calendar layouts with one of the industry’s most technically sophisticated minute repeaters.

Beginning with its compact form, the Repeater Perpetual packs 640 components inside a platinum case that’s just 40.5 mm wide and 12.5 mm thick; roughly the same dimensions as a Rolex Submariner. It features an enamel dial in deep black, which is always a risk, since even the tiniest imperfections tend to stand out vividly.

A cynic might point out that the new calibre L122.2 is largely a mashup of a Langematik Perpetual and Richard Lange Minute Repeater, but to do so would be to miss the point. The movement is everything Lange does best, with a thoughtful emphasis on legibility and the priority of information, combined with an advanced, idiot-proof minute repeater that’s finished to the nines.

Pricing has yet to be announced, but I’m expecting a number in excess of US$750,000. Truly a watch for the collector who has everything, the Repeater Perpetual will probably still cost less than the going rate for a Patek Philippe ref. 5074P, while offering a more modern and advanced minute repeater movement and a more legible perpetual calendar display. And you don’t have to take it off to wash your hands.

Special treatment

A signature feature of the Repeater Perpetual is naturally its inky black enamel dial, crafted in-house. While final judgement must be reserved until the watch is in-hand, the dial appears striking, with four individual white gold rings set into the dial to define the chapter rings. I had hoped for the full champlevé treatment that was given to the Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst, but the applied markers look great regardless.

Another treatment that differentiates the Repeater Perpetual from most other watches in the Lange stable is the frosted finish on the movement bridges. This finish is typically reserved for special editions that fit between the brand’s standard production models and its ultra-rare Handwerkskunst series.

We’ve seen this before on watches like the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange”, and I think the choice to go with a more minimalist aesthetic for the bridge treatment works well in what is otherwise a very maximalist watch.

A familiar perpetual

For a new watch, the Repeater Perpetual has a familiar face, calling to mind the Langematik Perpetual, the first perpetual calendar with a large date display. When it debuted in 2001, this Lange innovation raised the stakes for perpetual calendars and was a shot across the bow at the ‘holy trinity.’

Now, nearly a quarter century later, the state of the art has moved on but the layout still looks great, with a clear focus on legibility and the priority of information (the date being given prominence over the day and month indicators).

It remains a classic “grand lever” design and the owner must be careful not to engage the adjustment pushers during the dead zone, hence the 24-hour indicator within the nine o’clock sub-dial.

A new element of the design that shows remarkable attention to detail is the sunken disk for the leap year indicator, which makes this readout it more subtle and adds further depth. The cut-out is executed with aplomb, and it showcases the impressive thickness of the dial, which is made of solid gold. The flanks of the opening are brushed, and the pointer is fully integrated.

An advanced minute repeater

While the construction of the perpetual calendar system is fairly traditional, the underlying L122 minute repeater movement is comparatively advanced, having been introduced in the Richard Lange Minute Repeater in 2022.

Minute repeaters, as a category, have a reputation for being fragile and finicky, but Lange approached this complication with its usual emphasis on robustness and over-engineering.

The result is a minute repeater with a number of safety systems to prevent damage from mishandling. This includes a safety system to disengage the chiming mechanism when the crown is pulled, and another that locks the crown when the repeating action is underway.

The L122.2 also introduced innovations that improve the sound quality and listening experience. The first is a system that catches the hammers once they’ve struck, preventing them from ricocheting back down and dulling the tones of the gongs. It’s also been programmed to skip the first quarter during the first 15 minutes of every hour, progressing from the low tones for the hours directly to the high tones for the minutes.

Key facts and price

A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar
Ref. 607.091FE

Diameter: 40.5 mm
Height: 12.1 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 20 m

Movement: L122.2
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, minute repeater, and perpetual calendar with big date
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Hand wind
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Alligator with matching folding clasp

Limited edition: 50 pieces
Availability: At A. Lange & Söhne boutiques only
Price: Estimated to about US$750,000

For more, visit alange-soehne.com.

This year is quite the anniversary for Vacheron Constantin, with the brand turning 270 years old. To mark the occasion appropriately, the Geneva-based manufacture created the mighty Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première, the culmination of eight years of development.

Now the most complicated wristwatch ever, this unique wristwatch boasts 41 complications on two faces, encompassing five rare functions as well as a world first – a celestial object tracker. All of that is contained in a surprisingly compact, but still large, case. (A detailed list of the complications is available in the addendum below.)

Initial thoughts

Timepieces of such complexity reach beyond the realm of horology and can be regarded as engineering marvels. In a sense the Solaria is not unexpected since VC has a long history of making ultra-complications – “The Berkley” pocket watch was just unveiled a year ago – but the Solaria is one of the most fascinating watches in recent memory.

The numbers behind the Solaria are impressive. Beyond the 41 functions, the watch is powered by the cal. 3655 that’s made up of 1521 pieces and the subject of 13 patents. The watch took eight years to develop and construct, which is impressive for a single timepiece.

Surely VC will trickle down some of the developments related to cal. 3655 and install them in simpler timepieces, but condensing 41 complications into a wristwatch no thicker than 15 mm is an engineering feat that cannot be understated.

Something that might go unnoticed amidst all the complexity is the silicon balance wheel, which is a first for VC and also unusual in such a complicated watch. The implications of this material are interesting; will it be adopted over a wider range of models?

If there is a shortcoming in the Solaria, it is a trait that is common to all such mega complications: the impractically complicated appearance that is a challenge to process.

There is so much information condensed in the overlapping displays that the dials do look cluttered. Legibility is certainly not its strength, but arguably such visual complexity is intrinsic to a watch of this calibre. Given the extraordinary nature of the Solaria, some aesthetic compromises can be overlooked. 

Forty-one complications

The Solaria boasts 41 complications, with five of them being “rare” according to VC – an accurate enough claim. Four of these are linked to the Sun and its position, while the fifth is a complete world first.

The Solaria displays the position, height, culmination and declination of the Sun. These four complications are linked to the apparent path of the Sun, as observed from a given position on Earth. 

The position of the Sun is indicated at the periphery of the dial, on a rotating sapphire ring. When oriented in accordance with the cardinal points, the watch reliably displays the Sun’s position in the sky, along with the sunrise and sunset times.

The height of the Sun indication expressed in degrees (between 20° and 68°) displays the elevation of the Sun above the horizon line.  

The culmination of the Sun is displayed in the same six o’clock large sub dial as the height and declination. The culmination of the Sun (also known as solar noon) is when the star reaches the highest point in its daily trajectory. This indication is somewhat subjective, since it is dependent on the observer’s longitude. 

Lastly, the declination of the Sun represents the angle formed by the Earth’s equatorial plane and an imaginary segment joining the Sun and Earth. It increases from −23.5° in winter solstice to +23.5° in summer solstice, having a value of zero at equinoxes. 

This indication is displayed at six o’clock, integrated with the others. The same sub-dial also houses a running equation of time indicator and a counter displaying the 13 constellations of the zodiac (including Ophiuchus), along with the seasons, solstices and equinoxes. These complications together are already more advanced than a full perpetual calendar. 

A world-first astronomical complication

Turning the watch around, and another dial displaying additional complications is revealed.  The fifth “rare” complication — a world first — is linked to the rattrapante chronograph on the reverse face.

This complication is a celestial object tracker. Twin superimposed tinted-sapphire disks form a star chart that revolves in real time. This works together with a split-seconds chronograph to calculate the time required for a specific constellation to appear in the wearer’s field of vision. 

To use the celestial body tracker complication, the wearer must choose a star on the celestial chart and start the chronograph.

Stop the split chronograph hand once it aligns with a green reference marker, but allow the other seconds hand to continue until it reaches the current position of the chosen star, then stop it as well. 

The green triangle on the small central counter indicates the number of hours remaining until the star will become visible. The complication’s presentation may be a little difficult to fully understand, but the purpose is surprising and admittedly novel.

The split-seconds chronograph can be used just for conventional elapsed timing as well, as the chronograph also includes a 60-minute counter in disc form.

One of the many patents in the movement is linked to the split function, which comes with an isolateur that assures there is no additional friction to the split-seconds shafts when the chronograph is engaged. 

Westminster chime

Accounting for seven out of the 13 patents in the Solaria, the Westminster carillon minute repeater is integrated into the base movement. This is no small feat, considering additional modules for the astronomical complications also needed to be taken into account. 

The carillon repeater requires four hammers and four gongs for the complex musical sequence. Because the movement is so dense, classic chiming systems were not suitable, since the sound was dampened by the sheer amount of tightly packed metal pieces.

As such, the gongs are shaped with a rectangular section and are directly attached to the middle case, which promises to increase the resonance of the chiming. 

The hammers also feature a proprietary design. They are compact in shape and made from steel, but with added 18K gold weights in order to increase their moment of inertia. 

More indications…

Apart from the sounding and astronomical complications, the Solaria also features classic indications and functions that traditionally define high complication pieces. 

The Solaria includes a complete perpetual calendar, which displays the correct date, including the year in a four-digit format. There is also a moon phase indication, which is disappointingly only accurate for the industry norm of one day in 122 years, after which it requires manual adjustment. 

Additionally, the Solaria has both a 24-hour time display and a world time indication calibrated to standard winter time. This means that the already complex timepiece can simultaneously track three different timezones (including the local time shown by the central hands).

With “plug and play”

While the chiming mechanism is integrated into the base movement along with the going train and tourbillon regulator, the astronomical complications form the upper layers of the cal. 3655. The innovative “plug and play” device is a clever way of integrating the astronomical complications. 

In order to ease any future servicing work, the astronomical module is a single functional unit, assembled and adjusted separately from the rest of the movement. A clever indexing system assures the module is positioned correctly, allowing it to be installed and then immediately be driven by the base movement. 

This type of connection will undoubtedly be used by VC in the future for simpler movements with comparable modular constructions, like a perpetual calendar for example. 

Addendum: The 41 complications

Time functions

1.     Day and night indication for reference city
2.     Second time zone hours and minutes (on 24-hour display )
3.     World time indication for 24 cities
4.     Second time zone day and night indication
5.     3Hz tourbillon with silicon balance wheel
6.     Civil time display module coupled to the base movement

Perpetual Calendar

7.     Perpetual calendar
8.     Days of the week
9.     Months
10.   Gregorian retrograde date
11.    Four-digit year indication
12.    Leap-year indication
13.    Indication for the number of the week within the year (ISO 8601 calendar)
14.    Number of the day of the week (ISO 8601 calendar)

Lunar indications

15.    Astronomical Moon phases and age of the Moon
16.    Tide level indicator
17.    Spring and neap tides indication

Astronomical indications

18.    Indication of seasons, equinoxes & solstices
19.    Position of the Sun20Sunrise time (according to the city of reference)
21.    Sunset time (according to the city of reference)
22.    Duration of the day (according to the city of reference)
23.    Equation of time on tropical (solar) gear
24.    Culmination time of the Sun (according to the city of reference)
25.    Height of the Sun above the horizon (according to the city of reference)
26.    Declination of the Sun, Three-dimensional Earth showing the latitude of the Sun in the Northern/Southern hemisphere
27.    Sidereal hours
28.    Sidereal minutes
29.    Astronomical zodiac signs
30.    Sky chart (according to the city of reference)
31.    Temporal tracking of celestial objects

Chiming complications

32.    Minute repeater
33.    Westminster carillon chime (4 hammers & 4 gongs)
34.    Choice of hour-only or full chime
35.    Crown locking system during the chiming
36.    Double-stop hammer system to limit rebound and optimise transmission of energy

Split-seconds chronograph

37.    Chronograph (1 column wheel)
38.    60-minute counter
39.    Split-seconds chronograph (1 column wheel)
40.    Isolator system for the split-seconds chronograph

Additional feature

41.    Power-reserve indication (outer disc at 190°)

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première
Ref. 9600C/000G-231C

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: 14.99 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Moisture protected

Movement: Cal. 3655
Functions: Grande complication with 41 functions, including a celestial object tracker
Winding: Manual wind
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Limited edition: Single-piece edition as shown
Availability: Made to order with each example being unique
Price: On request

For more information, visit Vacheron-constantin.com.

Rolex has entered uncharted territory with the Land-Dweller, arguably the most advanced and radical creation from a hitherto conservative brand.

The Land-Dweller is significant, perhaps even game changing, not because of the integrated bracelet or patented solid lume, but because of the cal. 7135, a new calibre with an all-new double-wheel escapement known as Dynapulse and a ceramic balance staff.

(This story details the technical advances in the movement; for a review of the watch, check out the accompanying story.)

The Land-Dweller 40 mm in platinum

The fundamentals

Why is it significant, or even game changing?

The cal. 7135 is the first in-house, serial production Rolex movement that is high frequency, beating at 5 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour. All things being equal, a higher frequency promises superior timekeeping.

Despite the higher frequency, the cal. 7135 still has a 66-hour power reserve. That’s thanks in part to the Dynapulse escapement which is 30% more efficient than a conventional Swiss lever escapement, while occupying essentially the same volume of space.

The balance assembly of the cal. 7135

Dynapulse is one of several innovations that make the cal. 7135 a landmark, especially since it will be produced at scale. While Rolex has traditionally been associated with incremental innovation, the cal. 7135 is a revolution.

The Land-Dweller is the subject of 32 filed patents, 18 of which are unique to the watch. Moreover, 16 of the patents unique to the watch are specifically concerned with the cal. 7135, reflecting the extraordinary innovation within it.

We delve deeper into the cal. 7135 – materials, oscillator, and most importantly, the Dynapulse escapement. 

The nature of the escapement

When Rolex launched Chronergy in 2015, it seemed that escapement would be the standard in Rolex movements for a long time to come. But now Rolex has debuted an entirely new escapement.

Inside the cal. 7135 of the Land-Dweller is a double-wheel, indirect-impulse escapement christened Dynapulse. While on its face Dynapulse might seem to be Rolex’s take on the “natural” escapement, Dynapulse is not a natural escapement.

The cal. 7135 appears unassuming but it is game changing. Image – Rolex

Conceived by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1789, the natural escapement was meant to be a superior alternative to the lever escapement. Best described as a double detent escapement, the natural escapement as invented by Breguet consisted of a pair of mirrored escape wheels, geared directly together, allowing them to alternately provide a direct impulse to the balance.

While it is not explicit why Breguet labeled his invention as “natural”, it is believed that he regarded the double direct impulse as be the most “natural” manner of powering a balance wheel. As a result, a double-wheel escapement must impart direct impulse to the balance in order to be a “natural” escapement. The Rolex Dynapulse decidedly does not, as the twin escape wheels deliver impulse to a lever, and thus indirectly to the balance wheel.

Dynapulse. Image – Rolex

What it is

Dynapulse is, in short, a double-wheel, indirect-tangential impulse escapement. Made up of seemingly organic forms, Dynapulse features two escape wheels geared together via irregular toothing.

The mechanics of Dynapulse are fairly easy to grasp. The going train powers a pair of escape wheels geared together — one escape wheel is powered directly by a silicon fourth wheel of the going train, while the second escape wheel is driven by the first.

Each escape wheel alternatively engages with a dual-function silicon lever, which performs both the impulse and locking functions. While the set up brings to mind past escapements, including the Dual Ulysse escapement found in the Ulysse Nardin Freak, Dynapulse has a crucial advantage: the unlocked escape wheel also provides impulse to the lever – a stroke of genius on the part of the constructors.

The Ulysse Nardin Dual Ulysse escapement, a system that is similar in some ways to Dynapulse. Image- Ulysse Nardin patent

In the Dual Ulysse escapement, one escape wheel locks the lever and the other is positioned to provide impulse after unlocking. But this means that during every oscillation, the driven escape wheel is under no tension from the driving escape wheel as it is set to provide impulse, which leaves the driven escape wheel free to “flutter” due to normal play in meshing of the wheels. This leads to asymmetric impulse values between the two escape wheels.

In Dynapulse, the escape wheel that is locking the lever is also the one that impulses the lever after unlocking. For example, when the driving escape wheel is locked, it also will impulse the lever, while the driven escape wheel remains entirely inactive. The lever then locks the driven escape wheel, which is instantly tensioned by its driving counterpart. 

The Dynapulse escapement. Image – Rolex

This means that when the escapement unlocks again, the driven escape wheel is pretensioned, so its impulse value is identical as if coming from the driving escape wheel. This is an elegant solution to the problem of “flutter”, or play between teeth, which had plagued watchmakers working on double wheel escapements since Breguet’s “natural” invention. 

Rolex notes Dynapulse is about 30% more efficient overall than a Swiss lever escapement, which is an impressively high efficiency gain. Preliminary observations look to support the affirmation, since the escapement is small and the silicon components are hollowed out, suggesting few inertial losses. The appeal of tangential impulse is the minimal energy that is dissipated, which is thanks to the virtual absence of sliding friction.

Notably, Rolex also discloses an oiling process specific to Dynapulse. The escapement is first assembled, lubricated, and tested as a sub-assembly on its own before being installed into a complete movement. Rolex also adds that lubricant application is measurable in nanoliters.

This is interesting, since most brands that employ novel escapements often claim such alternative escapement run “dry” (which is almost never the case). Crucially, however, according to Olivier Greim, head of research and development at Rolex, Dynapulse can theoretically function without lubrication.

The escapement with the balance assembly removed. Image – Rolex

Equally notable is the scale of Dynapulse. The new escapement occupies essentially the same volume as Chronergy, the Swiss lever escapement that is now found across Rolex’s range of movements. This leaves open the possibility that Dynapulse can be fitted to other latest-generation Rolex movements, which would be logical given its functional superiority.

Efficiency and other advantages

An escapement similar to Dynapulse was the subject of a pending patent filed by Rolex in the second half of 2024 (European patent EP4492153A1). The patent describes two possible embodiments of the invention, although the Dynapulse is not identical to either. 

Two variants of the Dynapulse concept with the version on the right being similar to Dynapulse. Image – Rolex patent

Dynapulse is made up of two escape wheels, each offset by 30° and during one full oscillation (meaning two vibrations or two unlockings of the escapement) each wheel travels by 60°.

Considering the 5 Hz rate of the regulator, it means that the silicon escape wheels each make 50 rotations per minute, or 5/6 of a revolution per second. This angular velocity is extremely high, considering that a 5 Hz Zenith El Primero escapement runs at only 15 turns per minute.

This high velocity implies resistance to magnetic fields is important, which might explain why the intermediate wheel powering the escape wheels is crafted from silicon as well.

An escape wheel of Dynapulse. Image – Rolex

Equally impressive is the form of the escape wheels. Each has six active hook-shaped teeth that engage selectively with a double-function lever. Intertwined with the teeth are six C-shaped notches, each being meant to engage with a tooth on the adjoining escape wheel. In other words, the Dynapulse escape wheels incorporate two types of teeth.

Developing the geometry employed in the escape wheels requires substantial mathematics and a solid understanding of rolling surface physics, along with cycloid and involute curve theory. The result is a reliable pair of unique gears, with optimised surface-to-surface interaction and presumably reduced play between the two escape wheels. 

The particular form of each escape wheel incorporates subtle reinterpretations of traditional gear geometry, with the C-shaped segments serving as the “valley” between two standardised teeth, without being directly defined by the teeth’s flanks. This ensures the tightness of engagement even with undersized tooth profiles.

Image – Rolex

There is a slight recoil when the balance unlocks the escapement, as the escape wheel tooth is forced out of the locking notch. The recoil looks to be less than the similar effect caused by draw in classic Swiss lever escapements.

It can be inferred that the geometric efficiency of Dynapulse is elevated. Only dependent on the geometrical constraints of the escapement, the geometric efficiency describes how much of the escape wheel’s travel between two unlocking motions is actually useful in impulsing the balance. Dynapulse escape wheels appear to be in contact with the lever for most of their travel when unlocked, actively imparting impulse to the balance.

The meshing of the escape wheels. Image – Rolex

A subtle safety

Intriguingly, Dynapulse omits the conventional dart and roller safety system, which seems surprisingly initially. All escapements on the market feature some sort of a safety implement that prevents accidental unlocking of the escapement. Such systems are universally found in Swiss lever escapements, as well as the Omega Co-axial escapement and the Ulysse Nardin Dual Ulysse.

Dynapulse, however, purposefully omits this. Intriguingly, it appears the security device is integrated into the locking surfaces of the escapement parts. When one escape wheel locks the lever, its tip is lodged into a subtle V-shaped notch sculpted into the lever. This assures the two components are locked in a stable equilibrium position.

Moreover, the tangential force exerted by the escape wheel on the lever is consistently directed towards its pivot — thus ensuring the tooth tip is securely lodged in the V-shaped notch. 

A closeup of the escape wheel and lever interaction. Image – Rolex

A surprising oscillator in ceramic and Ecobrass

While silicon hairsprings are not new to Rolex, the oscillating organ in the cal. 7135 is the brand’s most forward-thinking balance. Although it resembles the silicon hairsprings found in other Rolex movements, the balance and hairspring assembly in the cal. 7135 has been completely rethought, especially in terms of materials used. 

The Syloxi hairspring looks familiar and is indeed similar to the one found in the cal. 7140. It has the same two-point anchoring system but was adapted for the 5 Hz frequency of the cal. 7135, meaning its stiffness constant was increased through more rigid coils. 

The ceramic balance staff. Image – Rolex

The free-sprung balance itself is made of “optimised brass”. Traditional balance wheels are made of Glucydur, a specialised alloy of beryllium, copper and iron. Another Rolex pending patent (European patent EP4399575A1) suggests that the alloy employed for the balance of cal. 7135 might be CuZn21Si3P, a lead-free “Ecobrass”.

Moving away from traditional materials is something Rolex has been progressively doing as it seeks superior alternatives to traditional alloys. Most notable is Rolex’s investment in making the proprietary blue Parachrom hairsprings.

The patent argues that this alloy has great paramagnetic qualities, making it suitable for the balance wheel of a mechanical watch. Moreover, the density of the alloy is optimal for a good inertia value for the balance shape. 

Rolex engineers approached the issue of magnetism resistance by considering the electrical resistance of different alloys and their behaviour to eddy currents induced by powerful magnetic fields.

The ceramic composite balance staff, with the two terminal pivots. Image – Rolex

The balance pivot in the cal. 7135 is also unusual, being made of a composite ceramic material. Examining other Rolex patents suggests that the composite is a matrix of industrial ceramic, namely an improved formulation of zirconia that boasts increased strength.

Incidentally, the ceramic pivot in the cal. 7135 is not the first instance that the Rolex group has employed the material for a balance staff, but this particular formulation of ceramic is unique to the cal. 7135.

The laser-polished pivot. Image – Rolex

Not only is the composite pivot inherently paramagnetic, but it is also adept at being produced with extremely fine tolerances. The ceramic pivots of the cal. 7135 are perfectly sculpted with a femtolaser, essentially a highly precise laser similar to that used for eye surgery.

The ends of the pivot are then polished to a mirrored finish with another laser. The polishing is not done for aesthetic purposes but to create a smooth surface pivoting inside the jewel to reduce friction as much as possible. As with the escapement, the ceramic pivots are lubricated, though Mr Greim says that due to their nature, ceramic pivots can theoretically function without any lubrication.

Conclusion

The innovations in the cal. 7135 are arguably a declaration that mechanical innovation is very much alive, that Rolex is going far beyond incremental innovation. Because the cal. 7135 is produced by Rolex, two things are a certainty: the movement will be of impeccable functional quality and it will be produced at scale. Because of the quality and scale, the cal. 7135 might just change the landscape of watchmaking.

The most discussed debut of Watches & Wonders 2025, the Rolex Land-Dweller is an entirely new model with a new case and bracelet, but that’s not why it is significant.

While Rolex is conventionally associated with incremental innovation, the Land-Dweller is game changing. Not because of the design, but because it’s equipped with perhaps the ultimate mechanical movement produced at scale in contemporary watchmaking, a calibre that’s the subject of 16 patents. (The finer technical details can be found in our accompanying story.)

The cal. 7135 inside the Land-Dweller is a new, sophisticated calibre equipped with an indirect-impulse, double-wheel escapement that’s entirely in silicon – christened Dynapulse – matched with a ceramic balance pivot. And it’s a high-frequency calibre running at 5 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour. Cumulatively, that makes for a superior timekeeper on the wrist.

The Land-Dweller debuts in two sizes, 36 mm and 40 mm, in three basic variants: white Rolesor, Everose gold, and platinum. There are also a handful of high-jeweller versions.

The Land-Dweller in white Rolesor on Roger Federer’s wrist. Image – Rolex

Initial thoughts

The Land-Dweller is both surprising and predictable. The styling is surprising; the integrated bracelet echoes historical watches like the Oysterquartz and ref. 5100 Beta 21 but I never expected it.

The Land-Dweller looks and feels surprising for a Rolex Oyster. At 9.7 mm it’s the slimmest Oyster Perpetual in the catalogue in fact. But it remains equally robust with a screw-down crown and 100 m of water resistance.

The execution, however, is typical of Rolex, which is to say outstanding. The cal. 7135 with its multiple innovations – 16 patents for the movement alone – is perhaps the new benchmark in advanced, industrial mechanical timekeeping. Although the cal. 7135 is tested to the same Superlative Chronometer standard of +/-2 seconds a day, I expect it will perform substantially better on the wrist.

The Dynapulse escapement of the cal. 7135. Image – Rolex

Beyond the landmark achievement of the cal. 7135, the attention to detail in the patented bracelet attachment (tungsten carbide sockets and ceramic clips for the spring bar) is incredible and speaks to the obsession with long-term robustness that’s a hallmark of Rolex engineering.

At any other brand, a watch with this many innovations would probably be a concept watch. The Land-Dweller, on the other hand, is serial production and unexpectedly well priced. In typical Rolex fashion the retail price is reasonable, with the white Rolesor version (which is steel and white gold), priced at US$14,900. The equivalent Datejust, on the other hand, is US$10,550.

I would absolutely buy a Land-Dweller 40, though I expect availability, at least initially, will be scarce as is the case with every new Rolex.

The only thing I would change is the honeycomb pattern on the dial. It’s certainly modern and distinct from other Rolex dials, but I would have preferred something simpler or more subtle. I am sure there will be more iterations of the Land-Dweller to come, so this is merely a matter of time.

The ideal everyday timekeeper

According to a Davide Airoldi, head of design at Rolex, the Land-Dweller is conceived as a robust, elegant everyday watch. This explains the slimmer profile and the advanced movement inside.

Rolex’s head of heritage, Christophe Carrupt, explains the Land-Dweller is novel for the current catalogue but still very much rooted in Rolex history. The aesthetic was inspired by the Oysterquartz ref. 1630 introduced in 1974 and the preceding ref. 5100 Beta 21 of 1970. The integrated bracelet and flat Jubilee bracelet in particular echo the Oysterquartz (though there were also mechanical Oyster models with the same case).

Because of the slim cal. 7135, the Land-Dweller case is just 9.7 mm high in both 36 mm and 40 mm sizes. The thin profile gives it a refined feel that is not common to the usually robust Oyster.

Adding to the refinement is the polished bevel along the upper edge of the case that continues into the links of the bracelet. This is the first time in a long time that Rolex is incorporating polished bevels along the case, but it’s a welcome addition because it adds to the visual appeal.

Interestingly, the fluted bezel is a Rolex signature, but it’s been modernised for the Land-Dweller. The flutes are wider, resulting in a more pronounced pattern on the bezel. The Land-Dweller 40 bezel has 60 flutes, compared to 72 for the equivalent Day-Date 40.

Personally, I would have loved the platinum Land-Dweller to feature the smooth bezel that was historically a feature of the platinum Day-Date but eliminated not too long ago in favour of the fluted bezel that is not standard across the Datejust and Day-Date.

Also conceived as a modern touch is the honeycomb pattern on the dial that’s unique to the Land-Dweller. It’s actually a variant of the fluted motif dial found on the Datejust, but made more pronounced here with a larger, relief grain.

The honeycomb pattern is engraved with a femtolaser, essentially an extra-fine laser similar to that used for eye surgery. The femtolaser cuts the honeycomb pattern and also etches the fine lines in between the cells. The contrast between the radially brushed cells and finely-etched borders allows the dial to catch the light nicely.

The laser etching is an intriguing touch as although the laser etching process is high-tech, the resulting lines between the cells bring to mind guilloche.

Another example of modern technology in the dial is the luminous ceramic-resin composite that form the lume on the hour markers. Instead of conventional luminous paint that is applied as a liquid, the hour markers contain solid blocks of lume.

The solid lume is produced with ceramic powder infused with luminous pigment that’s then mixed with a thermosetting polymer, after which the mixture is baked in an oven to form a solid block. The blocks are then precisely machined to form the hour marker inserts that are perfectly shaped and cover each index from end to end.

The most impressive design element of the Land-Dweller in my opinion, is the bracelet. Or more accurately, the construction of the bracelet attachment.

While the bracelet appears to be a straightforward set-up that’s secured to the case with a spring bar, there’s more to it than meets the eye.

Because the lug width is relatively narrow, just 7 mm compared to 20 mm or so for a conventional case, the spring bar had to be beefed up to be strong enough to be secure and robust.

Furthermore, the first link of the bracelet pivots on the spring bar, creating a rotational friction that would ordinarily cause wear. The Rolex solution was, of course, almost unbelievable in its detail and thoroughness – and includes one patent pending feature.

Firstly, the sockets in the lugs that accommodate the spring bars are coated in tungsten carbide, a hard-wearing material typically used for industrial drill bits.

Just to be safe, the spring bars are also secured in place with ceramic pins for an additional level of wear resistance. And then just to ensure this essentially lasts forever, the springs bars are locked in place with a lateral screw from inside the watch case.

Cal. 7135

The cal. 7135 in the Land-Dweller is part of the same family of movements as the cal. 7140 found in the Perpetual 1908 launched in 2023. While the two movements are superficially similar when seen through the display back, the cal. 7135 is notably more advanced.

The cal. 7135 is fundamentally a high-beat chronometer calibre. It’s the first high-frequency in-house Rolex movement with the balance running at 5 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour.

In comparison, the cal. 7140 of the 1908 runs at a conventional 4 Hz or 28,800 beats per hour, the standard across the Rolex catalogue until now.

Despite being high beat, the cal. 7135 retains the same 66-hour power reserve as the cal. 7140. Credit for that primarily goes to the Dynapulse escapement, a high-efficiency escapement that is 30% more efficient than a typical Swiss lever escapement. Put another way, it consumes 30% less energy, all else being equal.

The secret to the Dynapulse escapement lies in the fact that it is entirely silicon, and composed of twin escape wheels that tangentially impulse a lever that in turn drives the balance. The lightness of the components and minimal friction during operation are the reason for the high efficiency.

Beyond the escapement, the cal. 7135 also features a Syloxi silicon hairspring that was optimised for the cal. 7135, though it shares many elements with the hairspring found in the cal. 7140, including the unique mounting system.

New to the cal. 7135, however, is the ceramic balance staff. It’s made of ceramic that is sculpted by femtolaser, then mirror polished by femtolaser, resulting in perfect geometry and a perfect mirrored surface.

The ceramic balance staff and Syloxi hairspring. Image – Rolex

Conventional wisdom would have it that ceramic is fragile due to its hardness, but the material used for the balance staff is a zirconium-based ceramic formulated to be shock resistant. Notably, the Rolex group has used ceramic balance staffs but the ceramic formulation for the cal. 7135 is entirely new.

And although the ceramic balance staff is conceived to be shock resistant, the cal. 7135 also incorporates a new shock absorber for both ends of the balance pivot. Made up of a redesigned spring and cap jewel, the optimised Paraflex shock absorbers on both ends allow the balance to absorb lateral and vertical shocks; even if the balance staff is displaced, a cone-shaped ring slides it back into back at both ends.

For even more detail on the movement and its innovation, see our in-depth story on the cal. 7135 and Dynapulse.

Key facts and price

Rolex Land-Dweller 36 and 40
Ref. 127234 (Rolesor, 36 mm)
Ref. 127334 (Rolesor, 40 mm)
Ref. 127235 (Everose, 36 mm)
Ref. 127335 (Everose, 40 mm)
Ref. 127385 TBR (Everose, 40 mm, diamond-set bezel)
Ref. 127236 (Platinum, 36 mm)
Ref. 127286 TBR (Platinum, 36 mm, diamond-set bezel)
Ref. 127336 (Platinum, 40 mm)

Diameter: 36 mm or 40 mm
Height: 9.7 mm
Material: Rolesor (steel and white gold), Everose gold, or platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 7135
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz)
Power reserve: 66 hours

Strap: Flat Jubilee bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Rolex boutiques and retailers starting April 2025
Price: US$14,900 in Rolesor; US$63,500 in platinum; and US$88,300 in Everose with diamond-set bezel

For more, visit Rolex.com.