Last year Vacheron Constantin (VC) the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding ref. 82172, a fresh variant of the brand’s longstanding time-only dress watch.

Combining an 18k pink gold case with a sunburst green dial, the new Traditionnelle is an unusual and bold twist on the traditional formal wear timepiece. Although compact in dimensions and formal in style, it stands out as dress watch that different without trying too hard.

Initial thoughts

The Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is arguably VC’s quintessential dress watch. It has a traditional aesthetic and perfect proportions at 38 mm. And though it’s an entry-level model, it features upscale details like solid-gold indices and hands, along with a refined movement.

The most familiar iteration of the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is pink gold with a silver dial, which is classic but perhaps too plain for some. Similarly, most dress watches, VC or otherwise, tend to be in conservative colours, silver, cream, black and so on.

The new Traditionnelle Manual-Winding, on the other hand, is a striking metallic green that’s flashy but not overly so. The combination is unconventional as a dress watch, but it works well.

And it’s also one of the most affordable dress watches in the brand’s catalogue. Only the Patrimony 40 mm is less expensive but that has the slightly simpler cal. 1400 movement. The Traditionnelle Manual-Winding on the other hand sports the higher-end cal. 4400 AS, a large movement with a long power reserve that’s also found in the Historiques 1921.

As an aside, the green sunburst dial is matched with a green alligator strap as the default offering, which might be too much green. A more restrained colour might make the watch more versatile, particularly for casual wear.

Priced at US$23,700, the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is a strong offering as an entry-level model for a high-end brand, especially since it has the same movement found in pricier VC models.

Dial and case

The Traditionnelle line comprises dress watches in classic, orthodox style, but in a variety of complications, ranging from the Tourbillon Monopusher Chronograph to Retrograde Date Openface, with the Manual-Winding as the simplest and most affordable in the collection.

Style-wise, the Manual-Winding is standard Traditionnelle — it boasts the model’s signature stepped case middle with straight Maltese-cross lugs, a slender bezel, and a fluted case back, while the dial has a railway minute track, applied baton markers, and dauphine-style hands.

The 38 mm model (right) with its smaller, 33 mm sibling

The new Traditionelle is identical to earlier versions, with the exception of the dial. The 18k pink gold case is the same 38mm wide and 7.77 mm high – ideal proportions for a dress watch. Even though the watch is relatively small by modern standards, it doesn’t feel vintage thanks to the clean, modern design. The case is entirely mirror polished, which contrasts with the radially-brushed finish on the dial.

Ordinarily, a metallic green dial in a pink gold would be loud, but here it’s moderated by the case size. The green sunburst dial, however, dial pairs well with the pink gold case and plays a vital role in giving the watch a fresh aesthetic.

Legibility is excellent thanks due to the simple and straightforward dial layout. The green sunburst dial catches the light well, and also offers strong contrast with the gold indices and hands.

In terms of construction, the dial is identical to the preceding versions of the model. It has faceted dauphine hands and applied indices, all of which are 18k pink gold. Also solid gold, the applied Maltese cross logo gives the dial a bit of depth, as does the recessed small seconds at six. Both the seconds and minute scales are railway track style, a utilitarian detail that contributes to the modern look.

The Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is powered by the in-house cal. 4400 AS that runs at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz). A large movement that’s almost 29 mm in diameter, it fills up the case nicely. Thanks to the diameter, it accommodates a large barrel that has 65 hours of power reserve.

Like most VC movements, the cal. 4400 AS bears the Poincon de Geneve that means it meets the hallmark’s criteria for decorative and functional standards.

Though simple in function, it’s constructed and finished with haute horlogerie details.

Concluding thoughts

The new Traditionnelle is a fresh take on a traditional dress watch. Vivid but not too loud, the green dial plays well with the light and is strongly legible. And the cal. 4400 AS inside is a superior time-only calibres, particularly for an entry-level model. All in all, the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is a quintessential VC dress watch that illustrates many strengths of the brand. 

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding
Ref. 82172/000R-H008

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 7.77 mm
Material: 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 4400 AS
Features: Hours, minutes, and small seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Manual wind
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Vacheron Constantin boutiques and retailers
Price: US$23,700

For more, visit vacheron-constantin.com.