The Independence Skeleton Chrono is the latest from Norqain, the maker of affordable sports watches. Available in stainless steel or DLC-coated titanium, the Independence Skeleton Chrono is equipped with a new movement, the “8K Manufacture Calibre (NK24/1)”. Developed in partnership with AMT, the NK24/1 is based on the architecture of the Sellita SW500 but upgraded in several ways, including a flyback function and a column wheel to replace the customary cam.

Initial thoughts

The Independence chronograph is now Norqain’s top-of-the-line offering, so it costs substantially more than the brand’s prior chronograph models. Still, the Independence arguably offers a similar value proposition as past Norqain models because while it’s more expensive, it is more watch. The case has more detail and the movement is more customised for the model.

The NK24/1 is a new development but clearly based on the Sellita SW500, but with enough upgrades for the price point. However, the NK24/1 is still as thick as a Sellita SW500, so the Independence is chunky and almost 14 mm high.

The Independence is priced at US$6,490 on a steel bracelet, and a bit more in titanium. The value proposition is good, but not quite great. While the execution of the Independence is as good as, or even a bit better, than many of its peers in the price segment, it can’t quite reach the value proposition of the leaders in the segment, namely Tudor and Longines, both of which enjoy economies of scale practically no one else can match.

Open-worked dial

The Independence is available in steel with a strap or bracelet, or titanium coated in diamond-like carbon (DLC) that’s a limited edition available only on a purple rubber strap.

The case is large at 41.8 mm in diameter and 13.9 mm in thickness. Water-resistant up to 100 m, the case is finished with a mixture of mirror-polishing and satin-brushing, with additional detail in the form of sandblasted recessed on the side of the lugs. Notably, the left flank of the case sports a plate secured with two screws that can be personalised with engraving.

Unusually for Norqain that mostly employs solid dials, the dial is skeletonised to form the Norqain logo of a double “N” that’s actually a stylised silhouette of a mountain range.

The dial has an appealing two-register layout arranged vertically, which is relatively uncommon for modern chronographs. It gives the dial a cleaner look that allows the skeletonisation to have maximum visual effect.

On the steel model, the open-worked dial is finished in dark grey with gilded hands and indices, while the titanium version has striking purple accents.

The open back reveals the NK24/1, a flyback chronograph movement with a column-wheel that’s also a COSC-certified chronometer. It was developed for Norqain by AMT (short for Advanced Mechanical Technology), a division of Sellita focused on premium, customised movements.

As it is built on the Sellita SW500 architecture, the NK24/1 has the same basic specs as the SW500, namely a balance oscillating at 4 Hz or 28,800 beats per hour, along with 62 hours of power reserve.

Besides the column wheel upgrade, the movement has been customised for Norqain with skeletonisation on the front and back, with even the bridges on the reverse echoing the Norqain mountain range logo.

Key facts and price

Norqain Independence Skeleton Chrono 42 mm
Ref. NN3200SC/B323/102SKC (steel on bracelet)
Ref. NN3200SC/B323/322CHBR.20S (steel on rubber strap)
Ref. NNT3200BC/P321/322CHPR.20T (titanium on rubber strap)

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 13.9 mm
Material: 316 steel or DLC grade 5 titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. NK24/1
Features: Hours, minutes, small seconds and flyback chronograph
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 62 hours

Strap: Matching stainless steel bracelet or rubber strap

Limited edition: Titanium model limited to 300 pieces; steel is regular production
Availability: Now at Norqain boutiques and retailers
Price: US$6,190 for steel on rubber; US$6,490 for steel on steel bracelet; US$6,990 for titanium

For more, visit norqain.com.

Last year Vacheron Constantin (VC) the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding ref. 82172, a fresh variant of the brand’s longstanding time-only dress watch.

Combining an 18k pink gold case with a sunburst green dial, the new Traditionnelle is an unusual and bold twist on the traditional formal wear timepiece. Although compact in dimensions and formal in style, it stands out as dress watch that different without trying too hard.

Initial thoughts

The Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is arguably VC’s quintessential dress watch. It has a traditional aesthetic and perfect proportions at 38 mm. And though it’s an entry-level model, it features upscale details like solid-gold indices and hands, along with a refined movement.

The most familiar iteration of the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is pink gold with a silver dial, which is classic but perhaps too plain for some. Similarly, most dress watches, VC or otherwise, tend to be in conservative colours, silver, cream, black and so on.

The new Traditionnelle Manual-Winding, on the other hand, is a striking metallic green that’s flashy but not overly so. The combination is unconventional as a dress watch, but it works well.

And it’s also one of the most affordable dress watches in the brand’s catalogue. Only the Patrimony 40 mm is less expensive but that has the slightly simpler cal. 1400 movement. The Traditionnelle Manual-Winding on the other hand sports the higher-end cal. 4400 AS, a large movement with a long power reserve that’s also found in the Historiques 1921.

As an aside, the green sunburst dial is matched with a green alligator strap as the default offering, which might be too much green. A more restrained colour might make the watch more versatile, particularly for casual wear.

Priced at US$23,700, the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is a strong offering as an entry-level model for a high-end brand, especially since it has the same movement found in pricier VC models.

Dial and case

The Traditionnelle line comprises dress watches in classic, orthodox style, but in a variety of complications, ranging from the Tourbillon Monopusher Chronograph to Retrograde Date Openface, with the Manual-Winding as the simplest and most affordable in the collection.

Style-wise, the Manual-Winding is standard Traditionnelle — it boasts the model’s signature stepped case middle with straight Maltese-cross lugs, a slender bezel, and a fluted case back, while the dial has a railway minute track, applied baton markers, and dauphine-style hands.

The 38 mm model (right) with its smaller, 33 mm sibling

The new Traditionelle is identical to earlier versions, with the exception of the dial. The 18k pink gold case is the same 38mm wide and 7.77 mm high – ideal proportions for a dress watch. Even though the watch is relatively small by modern standards, it doesn’t feel vintage thanks to the clean, modern design. The case is entirely mirror polished, which contrasts with the radially-brushed finish on the dial.

Ordinarily, a metallic green dial in a pink gold would be loud, but here it’s moderated by the case size. The green sunburst dial, however, dial pairs well with the pink gold case and plays a vital role in giving the watch a fresh aesthetic.

Legibility is excellent thanks due to the simple and straightforward dial layout. The green sunburst dial catches the light well, and also offers strong contrast with the gold indices and hands.

In terms of construction, the dial is identical to the preceding versions of the model. It has faceted dauphine hands and applied indices, all of which are 18k pink gold. Also solid gold, the applied Maltese cross logo gives the dial a bit of depth, as does the recessed small seconds at six. Both the seconds and minute scales are railway track style, a utilitarian detail that contributes to the modern look.

The Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is powered by the in-house cal. 4400 AS that runs at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz). A large movement that’s almost 29 mm in diameter, it fills up the case nicely. Thanks to the diameter, it accommodates a large barrel that has 65 hours of power reserve.

Like most VC movements, the cal. 4400 AS bears the Poincon de Geneve that means it meets the hallmark’s criteria for decorative and functional standards.

Though simple in function, it’s constructed and finished with haute horlogerie details.

Concluding thoughts

The new Traditionnelle is a fresh take on a traditional dress watch. Vivid but not too loud, the green dial plays well with the light and is strongly legible. And the cal. 4400 AS inside is a superior time-only calibres, particularly for an entry-level model. All in all, the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is a quintessential VC dress watch that illustrates many strengths of the brand. 

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding
Ref. 82172/000R-H008

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 7.77 mm
Material: 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 4400 AS
Features: Hours, minutes, and small seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Manual wind
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Vacheron Constantin boutiques and retailers
Price: US$23,700

For more, visit vacheron-constantin.com.