Vacheron Constantin is marking its 270th birthday in style with a clever limited edition of the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding featuring a unique dial pattern that depicts the brand’s emblematic Maltese Cross.

In total, 740 pieces will be made, with production split evenly between the platinum and 18k rose gold editions.

Initial thoughts

The 38 mm Traditionnelle has long been a staple (and fan favourite) within the Vacheron Constantin (VC) catalogue. Over the years we’ve seen numerous limited editions for specific boutiques and the brand has even made one-off pieces for its best customers. So it makes sense that VC would return to this watch as part of its milestone 270th birthday.

On paper, the anniversary edition is classic Traditionnelle, featuring the model’s goldilocks proportions of 38 mm by 7.77 mm. One of my favourite characteristics of this watch, and the Traditionnelle collection more broadly, is VC’s unique take on the Dauphine-style hands, which are divided along their length into polished and frosted sections. This touch catches the light in a truly special way, and brings a great deal of life to the dial.

The Traditionnelle is powered by the well-known cal. 4400, but it’s dressed up with special ‘côte unique’ finishing for this anniversary edition. It’s an interesting choice, being more muted in its appearance than typical Genevois finishing.

The only other difference between the anniversary Traditionnelle and the regular production models is the dial, which brings a welcome degree of asymmetry to what is otherwise a very symmetrical design. Featuring the Maltese Cross emblem at 7:30, the dial is dressed up with an embossed, guilloche-style pattern that extends across the dial.

While priced at about a 10% premium relative to the regular production models, the fancy dial is a meaningful addition that should appeal to fans of the brand and those looking for a dress watch with a little extra personality.

A remarkable dial

Movement finish aside, the anniversary Traditionnelle is all about its dial, which is embossed with the brand’s signature Maltese Cross emblem at 7:30. This symbol serves as the origin point for a series of intersecting parallel lines that create a a pleasing, asymmetric pattern across the entire dial surface.

VC has produced guilloche editions of the Traditionnelle before, but to-date none have been as visually dramatic as the 270th anniversary edition. It’s unapologetically self-referential, yet subtle. By placing the pattern’s origin point at the edge of the dial, the designers created room on the upper half of the dial for the eye to rest, preventing the design from becoming overwhelming.

Familiar movement with a new look

The Traditionnelle feature’s the brand’s well-known cal. 4400 movement, which ticks at a robust 4 Hz and runs for 65 hours from a single mainspring barrel.

Often cited as one of the most well-finished movements in its class, the cal. 4400 qualifies for the Poinçon de Genève, or Geneva Seal, and benefits from several hand-finished details like gleaming anglage and black polished steel locking plates for the stud holder and Triovis regulator.

Termed ‘côte unique,’ the finish requires techniques that had been lost to time until VC undertook the task of remaking the the American 1921 in 2021. While I slightly prefer the typical Geneva stripes to which I’ve become accustomed, the special finish helps distinguish the 270th anniversary edition from its brethren.

The cal. 4400 with normal finishing as seen in the Traditionnelle ref. 82172

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding
Ref. 82172/000P-H062 (platinum)
Ref. 82172/000P-H118 (18k rose gold)

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 7.77 mm
Material: Platinum or 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 4400 AS/270
Features: Hours, minutes, and small seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Manual wind
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: 370 pieces in each metal
Availability: At Vacheron Constantin boutiques only
Price: US$36,300 in platinum; US$26,100 in rose gold

For more, visit vacheron-constantin.com.