From the latest business news to auction reports to reviews of the latest and greatest, it’s obvious that readers love solid content. We’re most proud of what we do, which is intended to help readers gain an insight into watchmaking and make informed decisions. With 2019 just days away, here’s a recap of the most popular stories from the past year.

15. Why the Ref. 5235G Regulator is the Most Interesting Modern Patek Philippe

Dark horse, sleeper hit, whatever you name it, the ref. 5235 is one. The watch is one of Patek Philippe’s most unusual and overlooked models. Not only is the only watch made by the Geneva watchmaker with a regulator-style display, more significantly, it also boasts a calibre that is unique to the reference – no other watch shares the same movement or even base movement. And it’s also the only serially produced Patek Philippe movement with both a silicon escapement and hairspring. Read the review.

14. Hands-On with the Omega Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday “Ultraman”

A hotly anticipated watch that sold out in a flash online, the Speedmaster “Ultraman” takes itself less seriously than the first Speedy Tuesday. We looked at it in detail, and also compared it to the original Speedy Tuesday, as well as a vintage Speedmaster ref. 105.012. Continue reading about the Speedmaster “Ultraman”.

13. Comparing the Best of Japanese Watchmaking – Grand Seiko 8 Day and Credor Eichi II

Detailing the differences between two categorically similar watches – nay, horological masterpieces – produced at Seiko Epson’s Micro Artist Studio – the Credor Eichii II and the Grand Seiko 8 Day. Here’s the full story, along with lots of photos.

12. Macro Match: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date vs. Grand Seiko SBGA011 “Snowflake”

A detailed comparison of two different, yet comparable watches that are crowd favourites amongst enthusiasts, with lots of solid macro photos. Here’s the story.

11. The Ad Man Who Made The Best Watch in The World

Alan Downing tells the story of René H. Bittel, a little-known Swiss ad man who helped Patek Philippe regain its footing after the Quartz Crisis by crafting the ad campaigns that would come to define the company in the 1980s and 1990s. Most notably, he put into words the notion that a mechanical watch was for a lifetime, and one’s heirs. Read about Bittel and his accomplishments.

10. Helmut Sinn, Legendary Maker of Pilot’s Watches, Dies at 102

Helmut Sinn’s life was epic – as a fighter pilot during WWII he lost two fingers after being shot down, followed by a stint as a rally car driver, and finally a watch entrepreneur. He was successful enough that he sold the eponymous company at the age of 78 in 1994, several decades too early, as it turned out. He then continued his career with a second company, before passing away at the grand old age of 102. It was a life well lived, and worthy of remembrance.

9. Living with the G-Shock 35th Anniversary Full Metal Gold IP

The all-gold, limited edition G-Shock “Full Metal” is one of the coolest watches of 2018. Find out why in our detailed review.

8. An Honest Take on the Hits and Misses of Baselworld 2018

A no-nonsense take on this year’s Baselworld, an event that has recently suffered a streak of defections and bad press. We’ll do another one in 2019, but for now you can revisit 2018’s right here.

7. How Good is Vacheron Constantin’s Entry-Level FiftySix?

A surprise entry on the list, since Vacheron Constantin is neither a mass market brand, nor is the FiftySix a runaway bestseller. In fact, it was controversial at launch, being the most affordable Vacheron Constantin wristwatch by some margin. Yet the FiftySix has been a hot topic – we looked at it in detail, so see for yourself.

6. The Best Tool Watches Under US$5,000 From Baselworld 2018

We chose the best “beater” watches from Baselworld 2018, a fair that does much better at affordable timepieces than SIHH. No matter how large your budget, value for money is always reassuring and comforting, so the popularity of this story is no surprise. See the selection of winners under US$5000.

5. Up Close with the Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” on Jubilee Bracelet

Possibly the hottest watch of the year was the GMT-Master II “Pepsi” with a Jubilee bracelet. Rolex also upgraded the case alloy, which is now Oystersteel, as well as the movement, giving it the latest generation automatic with 70-hour power reserve. But none of that matters as much as the blue and red bezel. Read the review, which has few surprises but is worth a read in any case.

4. An Open Letter to the Swiss Watch Industry, From a Frustrated Millennial

A tech exec in his early 30s, Brandon Moore tackles the topic of how to sell luxury watches to everyone’s favourite demographic – millennials. This story was not doubt as well read by the industry itself as enthusiasts and aficionados. Read it in full.

3. The True Story of the Mythical Rolex “Zenith” Daytona in Platinum

We detailed the intriguing backstory of the unique Rolex Daytona “Zenith” in platinum, one of just five made at the request of former Rolex chief Patrick Heiniger. We got the scoop thanks to Sotheby’s watches, which proceeded to sell the watch for over US$871,000, making it the most expensive modern Rolex watch ever sold at auction. Read the one of a kind “Francesca-Romain” Daytona.

2. Up Close with the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight – Smaller, Slimmer and Better

One of the most affordable watches of the year, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight was also one of the best. In a market rich with bargains, the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight still manages to be a poster child of value. It boasts much of the same goodness that makes all other Tudors such compelling buys, but hews closer to the vintage originals that inspired it, being smaller, thinner, and just better on the wrist. Read the review.

1. Breaking News: Swatch Group to Leave Baselworld Fair in 2019

We were the first amongst the watch blogs to break this news on a sleepy Sunday, thanks to a friend in Switzerland who picked up weekend paper NZZ am Sonntag and got a shock.

You can read about the Swatch Group’s surprise departure, as well as the consequences – the resignation of the MCH chief executive, and then the forecast of a US$100m loss.

Designed by Hermès’ legendary artistic director Henri d’Origny – the man behind its whimsical patterned ties – the Arceau is asymmetrical, stirrup-shaped, and arguably the brand’s most recognisable timepiece (aside from the overly obvious “H” watch).

Since its creation in 1978, the Arceau has evolved into countless iterations, including the inventive Le Temps Suspendu, an adaptability afforded by its understated yet nuanced design. As the watch turns 40, Hermès has unveiled the simplified Arceau 78, just ahead of SIHH 2019.

Named after its year of birth, the Arceau 78 is stainless steel and 40mm in diameter. While it keeps the signature stirrup-inspired case, it is distinguished by the varied surface finishes. The case band and lugs are polished, standing in contrast to the matte, sandblasted finish on the rounded bezel.

Its anthracite dial is also in steel and sandblasted, but with a more granular surface. Inspired by the gallop of a horse, the model’s signature italicised numerals are printed in cream Super-Luminova, while the date wheel is in grey to match the dial.

Like the majority of Arceau models, the watch is powered by a fuss-free, Swiss-made quartz movement and is fitted on a natural Barenia calf leather strap.

Price and Availability

The Hermès Arceau 78 is priced at SFr3150 or €2700, and will be available starting the second quarter of 2019.

Every year Parmigiani unveils a one of a kind minute repeater with an intricately decorated dial; at SIHH 2019 it’ll go a step further with the Toric Capitole, which also features a wandering hours time display.

Best known for being in watches like the Audemars Piguet Star Wheel and Urwerk UR-103, the wandering hours mechanism is actually an old one. Also known as a “sector time indicator”, the display on the Topic Capitole is inspired by an early 19th century pocket watch made by Perrin Freres that is now in the extensive timepiece collection of the Edouard and Maurice Sandoz Foundation, part of the charitable entity that owns Parmigiani.

While the movement inside the Toric Capitole has been used in previous years in other watches, here it has the wandering hours mechanism on show for the first time, instead of being hidden underneath the dial. Time is indicated by a three-armed platform, with each arm carrying a satellite that shows the hours, while the minutes are on a track that spans the top half of the dial. And as is typical for such a mechanism, each satellite relies on a Maltese cross to rotate.

The wandering hours display sits on a lavish, 18k rose gold dial decorated with a pronounced spiral pattern inspired by the tiled plaza of the Capitolium in Rome, which was designed by Michelangelo. Though the pattern is repeating, it is actually engraved by hand with a burin, rather than being guilloche done with a rose engine.

Featuring the double row of knurling that’s a trademark of Parmigiani’s most complicated Toric watches, the case is 18k rose gold, and a very large 45mm in diameter. Inside s the hand-wound PF321 movement, which has a 40-hour power reserve. Like most of Parmigiani’s repeating calibres, it was inspired by pocket watch movements and has an appropriately classical bridge layout.

Price and availability 

The Toric Capitole is a unique piece in rose gold (ref. PFH476-1001300-HA1241), and also in yellow gold. Prices have yet to be announced, but similar Parmigiani minute repeaters typically retail for US$400,000 to US$500,000.

Twenty-eighteen was not the best of years, but it was not the worst of years. Some watchmakers managed to outdo themselves, and everyone else.

These are my picks for the year’s best, judged by a simple criteria: I have to like, respect or admire the watch more than most others unveiled during the year. Consequently, it’s varied list, ranging from the impressive but slightly unwieldy Triple Split, to the uber-nerd Charles Frodsham chronometer, to the all-gold and all cool G-Shock Full Metal.

A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split

The Triple Split isn’t a pretty watch, neither is it an imaginative watch, but it’s damn impressive, extreme German engineering. It edges out the Datograph Lumen, which is cool but not as notable technically.

A Double Split on steroids, the Triple Split can measure two simultaneous elapsed times of up to 12 hours, a feat that required 20% more movement parts than the Double Split, but in a watch that’s just 0.3mm thicker. The engineering, in short, is awesome. And the awesomeness is confirmed by the view of the movement from the back.

The Triple Split costs €139,000, a bit more than the Double Split but worth the stretch. Those lucky enough to land one will have to wait. Though delivery was slated for September, the first Triple Split ever only arrived in November. You can find out more about it here.

It’s also worth mentioning the 1815 ‘Homage to Walter Lange’, which while not as technically compelling, has a great deal of emotional appeal as being the watch made in the memory of the late Walter Lange.

Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain

It was generally a pretty ordinary year for independent watchmaking, which makes the highlights stand out all the more. Widely regarded as one of the year’s best, the Chronometre Contemporain is good old fashioned watchmaking with a twist.

Though the movement decoration is par excellence, it has an imaginative, symmetrical layout as well as a eminently practical zero-reset hack seconds. Likewise for the enamel dial, which is traditional with a hint of Art Deco, but still contemporary.

And it helps that it’s the creation of Rexhep Rexhepi, a modest, hardworking but talented watchmaker who might just be the next big thing. Being only in his early thirties Mr Rexhepi has a long road ahead of him, one that is full of promise but also pitfalls, as contemporary independent watchmaking has shown time and time again.

The origins and details of the watch are illustrated here, and the major improvements Mr Rexhepi has done to the watch are examined here.

Cartier Revelation D’une Panthere

While the Tank Cintree was my personal favourite (and a watch I was fortunate enough to buy), the greatest Cartier wristwatch of the year is undoubtedly the Revelation D’une Panthere. It’s a lady’s wristwatch with an ever changing face that is filled with a multitude of tiny gold spheres that trickle into forming an ephemeral panther’s head, depending on the motion of the wrist.

The technology behind the panther’s head is a secret but not hard to guess at. The spheres are probably suspended in a liquid with a density that is almost identical to the transparent mould that forms the outline of the panther’s head, making it seem seamless and invisible.

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The only downside is the size of the watch, at 37mm in diameter and slightly thick it feels a bit chunky for what should be an elegant feminine wristwatch.

Retailing for just over US$100,000, the Revelation D’une Panthere is stiffly priced but completely unique.

Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer Wristwatch

The magnitude of no holds bar watch nerd-ness in the Double Impulse Chronometer Wristwatch is off the charts. There is so much technical accomplishment inside – double impulse chronometer escapement with double barrels and going trains – that the watch could just stand on its own. But it is also full of history, being built on the work of Abraham-Louis Breguet, George Daniels and Derek Pratt.

And there is everything else about it, including the optional, forged and hard-rolled 22k gold case, and ceramic dial. It really is solid English engineering of the sort that mostly disappeared along with the British Empire.

Starting at just under US$100,000 for the steel version, the Double Impulse Chronometer Wristwatch is richly priced but worth it for the connoisseur who comprehends it, which is why Frodsham has a two (and going on three) year waiting list now. The watch is explained in great detail here.

F.P. Journe lineSport Chronograph Monopoussoir Rattrapante

Arguably the greatest value buy in high-end split-seconds chronographs, the the F.P. Journe Monopoussoir Rattrapante boasts a thin, smartly constructed movement that features not just a one-button split-seconds but also an oversized date display.

It’s also extremely light on the wrist (in the titanium case), with an lug-less case and integrated bracelet that gives it great ergonomics.

But the watch is not to everyone’s taste. Even I am still warming up to it. But for SFr58,000 in a titanium case, the LineSport split-seconds is an uncommonly great buy. (A more detailed article on the watch is on its way.)

G-Shock 35th Anniversary Full Metal Gold IP

One of my absolute favourite buys of the year, the entirely gold-plated G-Shock “Full Metal” is affordable, surprisingly well made, and cool. It’s a deservingly flamboyant remake of a timepiece that is genuine icon of watchmaking.

While this exact version was a launch event limited edition, Casio has subsequently unveiled a similar, all-gold model that, the ref. GMWB5000GD-9, that is part of the regular collection.

IWC Tribute to Pallweber

The Pallweber wristwatch is the smartest IWC to emerge in a long time, but it didn’t quite get as much attention as it should have, perhaps because such engineering isn’t really what the average IWC buyer wants now. That is a shame because the Pallweber boasts an ingeniously streamlined, and consequently affordable, double-digital time display, a feat only ever accomplished by watches that cost a lot more, like the Lange Zeitwerk.

While it is slightly large, the Pallweber wristwatch isn’t outrageously large by modern standards. And more importantly the size is justified by the movement, which was developed from the ground up. We explained it in extreme detail in April.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight (the Black Bay GMT a close second)

The Black Bay GMT probably wins the award for the best value proposition in 2018, but it is a large watch, just big enough to feel it should be smaller. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight, on the other hand, is ideally sized at 39mm and eminently wearable. It’s just right in size and proportions. That is why, though I had the choice of a Fifty-Eight or GMT, I picked the former.

And like all Tudor watches it is remarkable value for money, though admittedly not quite as remarkable as the Black Bay GMT. Most notably it’s powered by a newly developed, significantly smaller in-house calibre that still boasts all the specs of Tudor’s larger movements, including a 70-hour power reserve and free-sprung balance.

So now all one can hope for is a Black Bay GMT in a 39mm case.

An ongoing lawsuit in the United States has a New York watch dealer suing a California auction house that sold a pair of allegedly fake Chinese Imperial clocks, according to The New York Times.

Sold for a total of US$607,000 in 2016, the clocks are large, floral and elaborate, typical of the style that was favoured by Ming and Qing dynasty emperors, echoing the equally elaborate pocket watches (that were often even sets with pearls) popular in China during the period.

Described by the auction house, Clars Auction Gallery, as “Chinese ormolu bronze automaton clocks” from the late 19th or early 20th century, the two clocks are actually just five years old, according to the lawyer for the buyer, Ye Olde Time Keepers Inc. The clocks were, according to the lawyer, made by Li Qiusheng, owner of Tianjin Edwin Clock Company, a clock workshop in the southern Chinese port city.

The revolving automaton on the clock. Image – The New York Times

Whether the clocks are the real deal will be decided by the court, but several expert comments in the articles are noteworthy, applying as much to vintage watches as to Imperial Chinese clocks.

“They are blindingly rare in real life,” says Simon Bull, an English clock expert quoted in the article, “The moment you start seeing them two, three, four, five times a year, and the same model — that was the big warning.”

A fellow English clock specialist, Matthew Hopkinson, is quoted as saying, “Suddenly these clocks were fetching 10 times the amount they were previously… When prices go up, the counterfeiters move in and start making reproduction ones.”

Source: The New York Times

Though Bell & Ross (B&R) has proven adept at reinventing its signature square BR watch case, the BR 03-92 Nightlum reverts back to its origins, being a square-cased aviation watch of that sort that put B&R on the map. The Nightlum is an exercise in essentialism, a reminder of the core principles that make a pilot’s watch – functionality and an irreproachable clarity.

Introduced 13 years ago, the larger BR 01 and smaller BR 03 were originally modelled on old fashioned, analogue aircraft cockpit instruments, explaining the case shape and dial style (and the “92” suffix a reference to the ETA 2892 that was installed in the watch). Despite its affordable price, the BR series ranks surprisingly high amongst contemporary watch designs in terms of recognisability.

The BR 03 has since evolved into a multitude of variants, but the Nightlum is once again an no-nonsense, aviation-inspired watch. As its name suggests, the Nightlum was designed with an eye towards nighttime navigation, which means liberally applied greenish-white Super-Luminova on a black dial.

It features the classic BR 03 dial with oversized Arabic numerals at the quarters and large baton markers. However, unlike recent BR 03 watches like the BR 03-92 BAPE XXV that have a sandwich dial, the Nightlum has straightforward, printed markings on the matte black dial for maximum contrast.

Measuring 42mm by 42mm, the case is smooth, matte black ceramic. Though the overall shape is simple, it is precisely made and smartly constructed, still an impressive design well over a decade after it was introduced.

“Zr02” is zirconium oxide, a type of ceramic.

Rated to 100m, the case is essentially a sandwich held together by screws that span the height of the case. That’s why the bezel screws are perfectly aligned – they are nuts secured by actual screws visible on the case back. And like most B&R cases, it is produced by G&F Chatelain, a case and buckle specialist that’s owned by Chanel, the parent of B&R and also a shareholder in Romain Gauthier and more recently, F.P. Journe.

Inside is the self-winding BR-CAL 302, which is actually a Sellita SW300, a clone of the ETA 2892. It has a 42-hour power reserve, a hacking seconds function as well as a quick date change.

The dial in the dark. Image – Bell & Ross

Price and Availability

The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Nightlum (ref. BR0392-BL3-CE/SCA) is priced at US$3800, or S$5500.

Cartier recently reopened its historic boutique on posh New Bond Street, in the heart of London’s Mayfair. Set up in 1902, the London location is one of the jeweller’s original stores, established in the day when Cartier was still run by the three Cartier brothers, who each oversaw one location. To mark the occasion Cartier has appropriately remade the most famous watch to ever emerge from Cartier London, the asymmetric Crash.

Created in 1967, reputedly inspired by a watch damaged in a car crash (but more likely the result of the incredible creativity and craft of Cartier London), the Crash has only ever been produced in limited numbers. Limited to just one watch a month, the Bond Street Crash is modelled on the original, identical in size and material, which is yellow gold.

Notably, the dial lacks the Cartier “secret signature” in the “VII” numeral on the dial, which is now standard on Cartier watches but absent on the original. The only obvious difference between the remake and its inspiration is the “Swiss made” label on the dial, instead of “London” as on the original.

It’s powered by the 8971 MC movement, a compact, oval-shaped movement that’s actually the Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 846. And like all Crash watches it’s fitted to a folding clasp with an equally misshapen buckle.

Even more limited is the jewelled version of the London Crash. Only 15 pieces will be made. This has an 18k white gold cash that’s been set with diamonds. Inside is the same 8971 MC movement.

An original 1960s Crash

A wonderful place to spend money

Price and availability 

The Crash reissue is yellow gold (ref. WGCH0006) is limited to one piece a month, and priced at €27,000.

And the diamond-set Crash (ref. WJCH0007) is a limited edition of just 15 watches, priced at €65,000. Both watches are available only at the Cartier boutique in Mayfair.

175-177 New Bond Street
London W1S4RN
United Kingdom

Tel: +44 20 7408 9192

All of Molnar Fabry’s recent works have been either based on vintage movements, from repeaters to split-seconds chronographs, or the simple but effective ETA Unitas 6498. The Slovenian brand’s latest creation, however, originally started life as an Omega Co-Axial cal. 8500, a top of the line, contemporary movement.

Having trained as jewellers, Molnar Fabry’s founders rely heavily on elaborate embellishment like piercing, engraving and shading, all of which are liberally applied to the cal. 8500. The intricate decoration is a striking juxtaposition against the modern, mass produced movement.

Introducing in 2007, the cal. 8500 is from Omega’s earlier generation of high-end movements (the latest is the Master Co-Axial cal. 8800). This particular movement came from a Seamaster, which no doubt sacrificed itself for a noble cause. It’s been skeletonised and engraved by hand, which means the bridges and plates were cut out with a saw, while the surfaces were engraved with a burin.

Because the watch lacks a date function, which is found in the stock cal. 8500, the main plate had to be modified to remove the date mechanism. Another modification was the replacement of the Si14 silicon hairspring with a conventional, flat Nivarox spring.

The free-sprung titanium balance wheel with a Nivarox hairspring, beside the balance bridge

Molnar Fabry also manufactured a second plate to sit over the base plate, so as to hide the hour wheel and keyless works. A hand-engraved chapter ring was also installed to form an approximate hour track.

The base plate with the secondary plate on top

Engraving the chapter ring

The finished chapter ring, which has been filled with black lacquer to accentuate the engraving

The rest of the watch is largely as it was originally, retaining the signature red lacquer-filled engraving on the movement, as well as the black-coated screws and barrel.

The external components were entirely produced by Molnar Fabry. That includes the 44mm stainless steel case, as well as the open-worked, blued steel hands.

Price and availability

The Corculum was custom made for a client, though similar watches can be produced starting at €15,000.

As it once was, it will be again: starting in 2020 the SIHH and Baselworld watch fairs will take place in sync, ending a parting that took place about a decade ago. It also comes after several industry heavyweights, including Thierry Stern of Patek Philippe, publicly stated their preference for the fairs to coincide.

While today SIHH happens in January, followed by Baselworld in March, their schedules will align the year after next. In 2020 SIHH will take place from April 26 to 29 in Geneva, followed by Baselworld from April 30 April to May 5. The “synchronisation” will last until 2024, after which it will presumably be extended if the fairs still face defections.

While this has been couched as a major achievement by the organisers of both fairs – Baselworld chief Michel Loris-Melikoff is quoted as saying “This partnership… represents a major breakthrough for the future” – it does seem reactive, especially for Baselworld, which has been pummelled by bad news since the dam broke in the summer. Even SIHH suffered attrition when Richard Mille and Audemars Piguet announces 2019 would be their last year at the event.

In the sameness vein, the move to cooperate with SIHH might have been eased by departure of major exhibitors like the Swatch Group from Baselworld.

Though both fairs are notably different, with SIHH being more upscale and dominated by brands owned by Richemont and Baselworld historically having been more accessible, there are obvious merits to doing it together, especially for attendees who travel from far away. And there’s the more fundamental benefit of having warmer weather in spring, as opposed to winter in Geneva.

It also makes sense since both fairs have been converging philosophically in recent years. SIHH has been growing more democratic, having opened itself up to the public for the first time this year (which Baselworld always was).

Dates aside, the formats of both fairs appear to be staying the same in 2020. More details on this as they emerge.

Source: Baselworld and Fondation Haute Horlogerie