The Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002 is Patek Philippe’s most complicated watch. Now it has undergone a major facelift. Christened the ref. 6002G, the new Sky Moon Tourbillon in white gold is a timepiece of Baroque sensibility that is heavily subscribed to the much-more-is-much-better school of watch design. Princes and potentates who find classic Patek Philippe watches too simple will certainly love this. Relief engraved all over – front, back, sides and even on the hands – with a lavish, floral motif, much like that used to decorate high-end hunting rifles, the ref. 6002G is 42.3 mm in diameter. This is many things, but a subtle timepiece it is not.

The dial is enamel, with the centre in cloisonné, decorated with what else but an Arabesque decoration, while the outer ring is deep blue champlevé enamel.

Mechanically the ref. 6002G is largely similar to its predecessor, the ref. 5002, having both a minute repeater with cathedral gong and tourbillon. In addition, on the front the ref. 6002 has the time as well as a perpetual calendar. And over the the back the display includes the northern sky, sidereal time, and the angular progression and phases of the moon.

The key differences with the ref. 5002 are that the ref. 6002G indicates the moon phase rather than the age of the moon, and that it shows the calendar information in windows instead of hands on sub-dials.

Inside is the cal. RTO 27 QR SID LU CL, which uses a similar base movement as the ref. 5016 Grand Complication, meaning though it cannot be admired, it is an incredibly beautiful calibre. But much as this is a great technical and artistic achievement, the aesthetic is an acquired taste, much like the recently announced ref. 5004T for Only Watch. Fortunately not many people will need to acquire the taste. The original ref. 5002 retailed for about CHF1.2 million, so this will definitely cost quite a bit more. And like the ref. 5002, only one or two will be made each year.

With his Bugatti 57 SC Atlantic winning the “Best of Show” prize at the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este 2013, Ralph Lauren took home a unique Lange 1 Time Zone.

For the second year running, Lange is a partner of the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este, a prestigious annual competition for classic cars held at Lake Como. As with last year, Lange contributed a unique Lange 1 Time Zone in white gold to be given to the winner of the “Best of Show” prize. 

The watch has a specially engraved case back in relief, along with “Como” on the cities ring of the time zone mechanism. 

This year Ralph Lauren’s 1938 Bugatti 57 SC Atlantic Coupe took the prize, and he received the special Lange watch from CEO Wilhelm Schmid. Mr Lauren is a renowned collector of classic automobiles, and also a Panerai collector of sorts; at one time several of his ads featured models wearing various Panerai watches.

Wilhelm Schmid (centre) presenting the watch to Ralph Lauren (left)

Ralph Lauren in his Bugatti 57 SC Atlantic

The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este is organised by BMW, and Mr Schmid was with BMW just before joining Lange.

Enjoy the beautifully taken photos of the unique Lange 1 Time Zone set on a 1913 Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost Austrian Alpine Trials Car.

– SJX

A unique piece created for Only Watch 2013, the Hublot Red’n’Black Skeleton Tourbillon is the first wristwatch to have a red ceramic component, in this case the bezel.

The bright red ceramic bezel of the Red’n’Black Skeleton Tourbillon has the same property as its common black or white cousins, namely scratch resistance. Red is a thematic colour for Only Watch – the Patek Philippe ref. 5004T is similarly coloured – being the state colour of the Monegasque flag.

Bezel aside, the rest of the watch is mostly a standard Hublot Skeleton Tourbillon. The 45 mm case is in black ceramic, while the movement is an in-house open-worked tourbillon calibre with five day power reserve. 

Two addition details reflect the red theme: around the aperture for the tourbillon is a red anodised aluminium ring, echoing the red bezel. And most obviously the strap has red stitching.

This Hublot, along with the rest of the Only Watch 2013 timepieces, will be sold on 28 September 2013 in Monaco, with all proceeds going to the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy. Details of the sale can be found on the Only Watch site.

– SJX

Greubel Forsey specialises in exotic and expensive tourbillons, all of which are available only in precious metals, until now. The new Double Tourbillon Technique has a glossy, black DLC coated titanium case, matched with a stitched rubber strap. It is a striking departure from the typical Greubel Forsey style. Ironically, though this is Greubel Forsey’s most fashion forward watch, the Double Tourbillon 30° was actually the brand’s first tourbillon, featuring two carriages: the inner cage inclined at 30° with a one minute rotation, and the outer cage rotating once every four minutes on the same place as the dial.

Several versions of the Double Tourbillon 30° have been created, including the most recent Double Tourbillon Asymétrique, but the Double Tourbillon Technique series is the only one with an open dial, revealing the lavish decoration and construction of the movement. Remember that it is this same movement that won the Concours de Chronométrie 2011.

Unfortunately, the black aesthetic of the watch means that the details of the finishing is not as apparent as with the other models, especially on the black coated bridges and plates; it’s there but just not too visible. That is a shame.

The case has a 47.5 mm diameter, but unlike the precious metal versions, the Double Tourbillon Technique in titanium is lightweight and sits far better on the wrist.

I am not usually a fan of finely finished complications in sporty, black-coated cases. Every single Greubel Forsey watch is a magnificent example of accomplished watchmaking, this included, but I find the look incongruous with the movement and function.

This is akin to a matte black Rolls Royce Phantom with racing stripes – but then again there are enough people around the world driving cars just like that. The Double Tourbillon Technique retails for S$786,450 including 7% tax in Singapore, or about US$620,000.

– SJX

Urwerk watches have always had some sort of feature which allows some interaction with the wearer. The UR-210 for example has an activity indicator that shows the difference between power reserve generated and consumed. The new Urwerk EMC takes that idea to an entirely new level, thanks to a novel combination of mechanical watchmaking and electronics.

The timekeeping part of the EMC movement is entirely traditional. It has a Swiss lever escapement, with an in-house balance wheel in ARCAP, a non-ferrous alloy. Urwerk designed the balance wheel to optimise aerodynamics and amplitude in all positions.

The balance wheel with the optimal sensor over it

Additionally, the movement has twin mainsprings, mounted on the same axis, but in separate barrels.

Twin mainsprings

And the user interaction comes in the form of a timing screw on the back of the watch, which the wearer can use to adjust the rate of the movement, by changing the active length of the balance spring, much like what a watchmaker would do during regulation.

User adjustable timing screw

How much the wearer should tweak the rate is indicated by the electronics of the movement. This comprises three components:

1. An optical sensor which uses a light to monitor the oscillations of the balance wheel, which beats at 28,800 bph or 4 Hz. Shown in red below, the optical sensor has an LED light on the top, and a sensor below the balance wheel in green. The apertures in the middle of the balance allows light from the LED to reach the sensor, which then measures the frequency of the light and thus the rate of the balance.

The escapement of the EMC

2. A electronic oscillator beating at 16 MHz, or 16,000,000 Hz, essentially a quartz oscillator but one which runs at a far higher frequency than a regular quartz oscillator.

3. An integrated circuit which calculates the difference between the actual rate of the balance wheel, and the reference rate set by the electronic oscillator. The difference is then displayed on the back of the watch.

No battery is needed for the electronics of the EMC, instead it is powered by a hand-operated generator which charges a capacitor.

The twin mainsprings in the foreground

So how it would work is simple: the wearer needs to crank up the generator, and then press a button to start the electronic monitoring system. The difference in rate is displayed on the indicator, which allows the wearer to adjust the rate of the mechanical movement as necessary.

From what I understand, the price of the EMC will be in the UR-110 ballpark (in the region of US$75,000 to US$100,000), rather than that of the UR-210. Interestingly the EMC is somewhat similar in concept to the Seiko Spring Drive, except that the Spring Drive is entirely autonomous, requiring no user adjustment. The Spring Drive has an integrated circuit which measures the rate of the balance, and also an electromagnet which accelerates or brakes the balance to maintain a constant frequency.

– SJX

Seiko will soon unveil its first Spring Dive “Tuna” dive watch, the Prospex Marinemaster SBDB008. Water resistant to 600 m, the SBDB008 has a titanium case with gold coated components.

Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SBDB008

Seiko’s shrouded dive watches, nicknamed “Tuna” for their resemblance to tuna cans, now include for the first time a Spring Drive model. The new Marinemaster SBDB008 is a 600 m dive watch with the cal. 5R65 Spring Drive movement which has a 72 hour autonomy, power reserve indicator and date. Akin to its Tuna brethren, The SBDB008 is extremely large, with a height of 16.2 mm. The diameter is 50 mm, just like the 1000m, titanium and ceramic SBDX011. And like all Seiko divers this has a rubber strap. The case and and shroud are titanium – DLC coated shroud and gold-plated inner case and back – with gold coated bezel, crown and shroud screws. This gold and black aesthetic was originally only with a quartz movement as the 7459 “Gold Tuna”. Because this is a Spring Drive model, the hands and indices were redesigned and are very different from its automatic and quartz compatriots. According to Seiko, the new hands and dial improve underwater legibility. With a launch date sometime in July, the SBDB008 will retail for ¥399,000 inclusive of 5% tax, which works out to about US$3917. It is a limited edition of 300 pieces. Like most of Seiko’s recent launches, the Grand Seiko 44GS reissue for instance, the Marinemaster SBDB008 is to mark the 100th anniversary of Seiko’s first wristwatch, the Laurel. – SJX

Unveiled at Baselworld 2013, the Kantharos is Christophe Claret’s entry level model, though it is far from simple. The in-house movement has a monopusher chronograph with a cathedral gong sonnerie, and a constant force escapement.

Christophe Claret is one of the pioneer movement specialists in watchmaking, having been a manufacturer of complicated movements for nearly thirty years. For most of that time, its clients have been other watch brands – officially the company says it has supplied movements to over 20 brands – but since 2009 Christophe Claret has made watches under its own name. Most of those watches have been costly complications like repeaters and tourbillons. The new Kantharos chronograph is the first of a line of more affordable, or rather more accessible, timepieces. With the basic model retailing for CHF96,000 without tax (or about USD98,000), the Kantharos is about a third the price of the next most expensive model in the line-up. That being said, it is still a lot of money for a chronograph, but the Kantharos is more than that – its movement comprises 558 pieces while the average chronograph has half or less of that. To begin with, it is an integrated, self-winding chronograph with a single button for start, stop and reset. The chronograph has hour and minutes counters featuring rotating discs, with the elapsed time indicated by a red indicator. In addition, the chronograph pusher is linked to a sonnerie, or striking, mechanism. So each time the chronograph is activated, stopped or reset, the single hammer strikes the cathedral gong. Visible through an aperture at ten o’clock is the black polished hammer.

The sonnerie is driven by the push button, which means pressing the pusher not only activates the chronograph but also the hammer. As a consequence, the pusher requires slightly more force than is expected. And visible at six o’clock on the dial is the tiny spring of the constant force escapement. This ensures constant torque throughout the 48 hour power reserve of the movement.

It is worth noting that the constant force escapement is purely for improved timekeeping at the extremes of the mainspring state of wind; it is not because of the chronograph. As the chronograph has a vertical clutch, meaning there is no drop in amplitude when the chronograph is running, the use of the chronograph has no impact on timekeeping. Christophe Claret is one of the most proficient and vertically integrated independent brands, so unsurprisingly the movement is almost wholly in-house, as is the case, dial and so on.

In terms of fit and finish, the Kantharos is certainly up to par for the price range. The movement finish is excellent, though not strikingly lavish.

An interesting detail is the traditional swan neck regulator with a ruby end stone, an anachronistic detail in what is otherwise a modern looking movement. That reflects Claret’s roots; many of the calibres developed for other brands were inspired by vintage movements.

In fact, the case and dial are extremely elaborately constructed, with multiple layers and details. There is a lot of take in, if anything some of it is too complicated. All of it, however, is well executed and finished.

The dial for example is on several levels; notice the tiny, raised platforms for the minute numerals on the outer minute track. This particular version of the Kantharos has a pink gold dial with a beautiful frosted finish. 

The Kantharos has a 45 mm case in titanium, with the options of rose gold elements and various colour treatments. This version has a DLC coated titanium case with rose gold accents.

It starts at CHF96,000 for the basic titanium version. – SJX

Though best known for its lavish Mystery clocks, Cartier has also been creating prism clocks for decades. Invented by Gaston Cusin, a colleague of mystery clock creator Maurice Couet, the prism clock was patented in 1937. Like the Mystery clock, the Prism clock’s relies on a simple but clever sleight of hand to amuse the viewer.

Inspired by the workings of a submarine periscope, Cusin devised a prism which sits inside the clock, above the clock face and mechanism which are concealed in the base.

Thus the clock face is visible from the front of the clock, appearing at a slightly reclined angle. The dial is in the classic Cartier style with sword hands, Romain numerals and a railway minute track.

But turn the clock around, and everything disappears. From the rear the clock is entirely transparent.

All see-through from the back

Cartier has made prism clocks for many decades, in varying materials and sizes. Most recently it unveiled the limited edition Clock Prisme.

Made of palladium plated sterling silver, the clock is decorated with guilloche on each side, reminiscent of the brilliantly coloured enamelled clocks Cartier made in the twenties and thirties.

The top and bottom are onyx, and inside is an eight day, key wound movement. Notably, the 6002 MC clock movement is made in-house by Cartier at its La Chaux-de-Fonds manufacture, making Cartier one of the few watch companies still manufacturing mechanical clocks movements.

Cartier 6002 MC eight days clock movement

Though it has solid horological credentials, the Clock Prisme is less a timekeeper than a lavish object for the home or office. Though the shape and decoration draws heavily on the Cartier prism clocks of old, the Clock Prisme looks decidedly contemporary, thanks to its monochromatic black and silver theme. It would go perfectly in the modern office that is often characterised by polished steel and black leather. The Clock Prisme retails for a hefty S$38,900 with 7% tax in Singapore (that works out to about US$30,900).

– SJX

Found solely in Grand Seiko watches and a handful of limited editions (like the recent antimagnetic Grand Seiko), the Seiko 9F family of quartz movements was introduced in 1993, with the goal of the being the best quartz movement possible, not merely in terms of timekeeping, but also in the display of time.

Seiko pioneered the quartz watch in 1969 with the Astron, and in doing so changed the watch industry. Designed by a team led by engineer Kuniharu Natori, who recently retired as Manager of Watch Movement Design and Engineering at Seiko Epson, the calibre 95GS of 1988 was the first quartz movement used in a Grand Seiko.

Kuniharu Natori, who led the team that developed the 9F quartz movement, holding his Grand Seiko and a raw quartz crystal

Quartz, but hand-finished

Five years later the same team presented the 9F quartz calibre, which built on the developments of the 95GS. Even though the 9F is now 20 years old, it still remains one of the most refined quartz movements anywhere, not only in terms of finishing and craftsmanship – it is hand decorated and assembled just like a mechanical movement – but in terms of construction.

Grand Seiko cal. 9F62

With a maximum deviation of +/- 10 seconds a year – the typical mechanical watches manages that in a day – the 9F is extraordinarily accurate. And that performance applies to the mere entry level 9F movements. Specially regulated 9F movements used in some limited edition Grand Seiko models, distinguished by a five-pointed star on the dial, are rated to +/- 5 seconds a year.

Mr Natori’s Grand Seiko with 9F movement

A special quartz crystal

That extreme accuracy begins with the quartz crystal that is the heart of a quartz movement, the equivalent of the balance wheel in a mechanical calibre. A quartz movement runs on a basic principle – run a current through a quartz crystal and it will vibrate at a precise frequency that acts as a regulator. Seiko makes its quartz crystals in-house, growing them in massive autoclaves that are some four stories high.

Quartz crystals fresh out of the autoclave

Over a period of two to six months, the seed crystals, which are long and flat, grow inside the autoclave, at 360 ℃ and under pressure of 1100 to 1700 kg/cm², eventually growing into chunky blocks which weight several pounds. Each of these quartz crystal is then checked by hand for any imperfections.

After the crystals are machined into necessary size for a quartz oscillator, a 90-day test begins. Each quartz crystal oscillator is tested individually, mainly to ascertain the regularity of its frequency. That’s because quartz oscillators vibrate at extremely high frequencies, that frequency may change every so slightly with temperature and time. The best performing oscillators are then selected for use in 9F movements.

The Astron of 1969 on a modern quartz crystal

Each quartz oscillator is then paired with an integrated circuit specially programmed for that particular oscillator’s frequency and behaviour, to ensure the resulting 9F movement keeps the best possible time.

Consequently, the time display mechanism of the 9F was designed to be up to the task of indicating such accurate time. Several features were designed into the 9F movement to this end. One is the backlash auto-adjust mechanism, essentially a tiny spring linked to the second wheel to minimise backlash and play between the hands.

Backlash auto-adjust mechanism

This is especially important for quartz watches due to the ticking motion of the seconds hand; in conventional quartz watches the seconds hand bounces around the seconds marker as it moves forward second by second, resulting in an imprecise time display. In contrast, the seconds hand of a 9F movement moves in a precise and controlled manner.

And not only are the hands precise, but also much more substantial – thicker and wide – than on ordinary quartz watches. Made possible by a twin-impulse motor, the hands are identical to those on a mechanical Grand Seiko. Normal quartz watches with single-impulse motors have insufficient torque to move such heavy hands.

The 9F movement delivers two impulses per second

In addition, spacers are mounted for both the minute and hour hand pinions to ensure that neither interferes with the motion of the other. All of the three hands on the watch are on genuinely independent axes.

Cross-sectional view of the hands and dial

Precision of display extends to the date, which is instantaneous. Both the day and date (some models have only a date) jump simultaneously at midnight, completing the jump within 1/2000th of a second. This is thanks to simple, four part date mechanism with a long lever that causes the date disc to jump.

The date mechanism

Made to last forever And then there is the movement construction, entirely conceived with longevity in mind – which runs contrary to the prevailing opinion that a quartz watch is essentially disposable.

All the vital parts of the movement are sealed in dust-proof enclosures. This is important since quartz watches are opened up regularly for battery replacement, and especially relevant for the central enclosure which houses the gear train, explaining the visible jewels. This not only keep the gear train clean, but also helps keep it running well by preventing lubricants from migrating elsewhere.

Sealed enclosure for gear train

The attention to detail extends to the electromagnetic coil of the motor as well. The coil block is sealed, so as to prevent damage to the copper wires – this is a common occurence during battery replacement.

Additionally, the copper wires of the coil are wound in a regular manner, while in a typical coil is is almost random.

All 9F movements are hand-assembled at Seiko Epson in Shiojiri, not far from Nagano, with the same attention to detail as for a mechanical movement. Though it is quartz, the 9F calibre arguably contains more ingenuity and craftsmanship than mechanical movements in the same price segment.

Now discontinued, the Patek Philippe ref. 5004 was the brand’s flagship split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar from 1995 to 2011, until it was replaced by the ref. 5204P. One watches to be sold for a good cause at Only Watch 2013 in September will be a unique, titanium ref. 5004T.

The ref. 5004T has a 36.7 mm titanium case, with a sapphire case back as well as a solid titanium case back. The dial is solid gold, and engraved with an unusual carbon fibre guilloche, with gold applied numerals. Similarly the calf skin strap is embossed to resemble carbon fibre, and is fitted with a titanium pin buckle. Overall the look is novel for a Patek Philippe – and I think it looks awful. But regardless of how it looks, this will sell for an enormous amount.

Inside is the CHR 27-70 Q, based on the Lemania 2310.

Only Watch 2013 will take place on 28 September 2013 at the Hotel Hermitage in Monte Carlo, Monaco. All proceeds from the sale will go the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies (AMM), which aids research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy (DMD). More can be found on the official Only Watch page.

Thanks to our friends at Watchonista for the heads-up.