Having acquired Tiffany & Co. in 2020, LVMH set about remaking the storied American jeweller. That extended to Tiffany’s watch division, which now debuts the first flagship creation under new ownership, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon.

Led since 2021 by Nicolas Beau, the former chief of Chanel watches, Tiffany’s watch division turned to independent watchmaker Artime for the movement of the new tourbillon. Set with some 4 carats of diamonds, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon features an off-centre dial layout with a flying tourbillon at seven o’clock, along with a turquoise marquetry dial bearing a pair of diamond-set birds in flight.

Initial thoughts

One of Tiffany’s best-known jewellery designs, the Bird on the Rock has been a fixture in the brand’s catalogue for decades. A horological twist on the concept, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon is clearly part of an effort to position the design as a versatile icon that is Tiffany’s equivalent of the Serpenti.

It’s a little bigger and thicker than the traditional ladies’ watch, though reminiscent of the MB&F LM Flying T. The reason for the size is the AFT24T01 movement inside, which is more interesting than usual as it was developed for Tiffany & Co. by Artime, a recently established independent brand. The AFT24T01 has a high quality execution with appealing details, but it’s related to Artime’s own calibre for a men’s skeleton tourbillon, explaining its large size.

As an opening effort, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon is done well and shows where Tiffany is going with its watchmaking. There’s strong competition in the space, not only from its sister brands like Louis Vuitton and Bulgari, but also rivals like Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. The American jeweller will have to keep up the momentum and refine its offerings to stay in the game.

A signature design

One of Tiffany’s most famous pieces of jeweller, the Bird on a Rock was designed by Jean Schlumberger, the French jewellery designer who worked with Tiffany for decades. Reputedly inspired by a cockatoo he spotted during his travels, Schlumberger created it as a brooch in 1965, and since then the Bird on the Rock has grown into a diverse lineup that includes pendants and rings.

Jean Schlumberger

In a twist on the traditional Bird on a Rock that’s made up of a bird perched on a gemstone, the dial forms a scene of birds in flight. A pair of birds, both solid gold and set with diamonds, are depicted against clouds, which are actually made up of 16 pieces of turquoise of varying thicknesses to create the impression of depth.

The AFT24T01 movement was developed by Artime, an independent brand that made its debut in 2023 with a skeleton tourbillon, the ART01. Founded by six industry veterans, including longtime employees of Audemars Piguet and Greubel Forsey, the ART01 is reminiscent of some watches by Audemars Piguet (more specifically Renaud & Papi movements) and Greubel Forsey.

Though the movement in the Tiffany tourbillon is newly developed and looks nothing like the ART01 calibre, it does appear to share some basic elements. Because the architecture of the ART01 movement was originally conceived for a man’s watch, the AFT24T01 for Tiffany is similarly sized, explaining why this is slightly wider and thicker than the average ladies’ watch. 

Key facts and price

Tiffany & Co. Bird on a Flying Tourbillon
Ref. 74863264

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 11 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. AFT24T01
Functions: Hours, minutes, and flying tourbillon
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per second (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Blue alligator strap

Limited edition: 25 pieces
Availability: Now at Tiffany & Co. boutiques
Price: CHF275,000

For more, visit tiffany.com

Hublot’s latest release, the Big Bang Meca-10 10-Day Power Reserve, may at first glance resemble the chunky original, but reveals a host of significant enhancements — most notably, a more wearable 42 mm case.

The new Meca-10 retains the Meccano-inspired skeletonised movement finished to colour-match the case. The calibre boasts a 10-day power reserve indicated by an uncommon crémaillère system visible at 12 o’clock made up of a linear gear engaging a circular gear.

Initial thoughts

Long one of the more interesting but accessible watches in Hublot’s lineup, the Meca-10 was previously available only in a 45 mm case that rendered it less-than-wearable. Hublot has refined the Meca-10 by reducing the case diameter by substantial 3 mm, making it positively compact relative to its predecessor. Not only is the case smaller, it is also thinner at just 13.9 mm high, which is slim for a watch of this type.

But the signature movement architecture has been retained, resulting in a watch that has the technical appeal of the original, but one more versatile and comfortable.

While it may initially appear to be yet another skeletonised Hublot, of which there are many, the Meca-10 boasts an interesting manual-winding movement with an impressive 10-day power reserve and a distinctive movement architecture. Amongst Hublot’s more exotic watches, the Meca-10 stands out as being relatively affordable, with the key word being relatively. It starts at US$23,000 in titanium (and rises to US$42,700 in King Gold).

Crémaillère

Distinguished by its unconventional linear-bridge architecture inspired by Meccano, the children’s construction toy, the Meca-10 movement is treated to match the case material, which is available in titanium, carbon composite, or King Gold.

Though it’s relatively simple in terms of function – just time and power reserve – it has an impressive 10-day power reserve thanks to two large and visible barrels.

The power reserve indicator takes centerstage on the dial, with an indicator at three o’clock and the crémaillère, or rack-and-pinion system, located just above under 12 o’clock and echoes the Meccano style of the bridges.

It’s made up of a linear gear meshing with a circular gear that drives the power reserve hand, which is tensioned by a concentric spring. This contrasts with conventional power reserve indicators that rely on fan-shaped racks.

The HUB1205 calibre is manual wind and beats at 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz). Reflecting the double barrels and elaborate construction, the movement consists of 264 components, a high part count for a time-and-power-reserve.

Key facts and price

Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 10 Days Power Reserve
Ref. 444.OX.1180.RX (King Gold)
Ref. 444.NX.1170.RX (Titanium)
Ref. 444.QN.1170.NR (Carbon black)

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 13.9 mm
Material: 18k King Gold; titanium; or carbon composite
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. HUB1205
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and power reserve indicator
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per second (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 10 days

Strap: Black rubber strap or black fabric strap with velcro fastener

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Hublot boutiques
Price: US$23,000 in titanium; US$27,400 in carbon; US$42,700 in King Gold

For more, visit hublot.com

Arguably TAG Heuer’s most interesting affordable chronograph, the Carrera Chronosprint features a unique variable-speed chronograph seconds that accelerates for the first 15 seconds of every elapsed minute, before slowing to complete the remainder of the 60 seconds.

Now TAG Heuer has introduced a new pair of variants in partnership with Porsche: the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye that’s available in either steel or yellow gold. The new model sports a black dial modelled on the dash of the 1965 Porsche 911 that bears the traditional “Carrera” emblem at 12 o’clock.

Initial thoughts

The Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye demonstrates TAG Heuer’s strength in affordable chronographs. In technical terms, it’s the brand’s best chronograph in this price segment. The case is little large for my preference, but that’s typical of the current Carrera due to the thickness of the TH20 in-house movement.

Although I am typically indifferent to brand partnerships — they are more often than not simply for marketing buzz — this particular collaboration makes sense given TAG Heuer’s historical presence in motorsports, which it has just returned to starting with the 2025 Formula 1 season.

Retailing at US$10,250 in steel and US$24,600 in yellow gold, the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye is pricier than the base-model Carrera “Glassbox” by a margin of about 50%.

While that might seem a lot, the uncharge US$3,000 or so is worth it given the TH20-08 “Chronosprint” calibre. While the accelerating seconds hand is relatively straightforward in mechanical terms, it adds another dimension to a conventional chronograph that is a perfect fit for the auto-racing theme of the Carrera.

Inspired by the 911

The new Chronosprint maintains the specs of the original model that was unveiled in 2023. Modelled on the vintage Carrera case of the 1960s, the 42 mm case has been scaled up to accommodate the in-house movement and features alternating satin-brushed and polished surfaces.

As is typical of the Carrera “Glassbox”, the case does away with the bezel. Instead, the domed crystal sits on the case middle, while the raised dial flange echoes the dome of the crystal and serves as an inner bezel.

The dial design draws inspiration from the Heuer dashboard timer found in the Porsche 911 of 1965. The beige lume mirrors the hue of the steering wheel, while the dial speckled finish is meant to evoke the metallic paintwork of the body.

The flange around the dial features a red scale extending to the 8.4 second mark, the time it took the Porsche 911 “147” to accelerate to 100 km/h in the 1965 Monte Carlo Rally. This is also reflected in the “Chronosprint” function, where the chronograph seconds speeds up for the first 15 seconds, effectively covering the distance of the red scale.

Powering the watch is the automatic in-house TH20-08 that beats at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz) and offers 80 hours of power reserve.

It incorporates the “Chronosprint” module that drives the central seconds hand at an accelerated pace for the first 15 seconds of each elapsed minute before slowing so that each complete revolution of the central seconds hand covers one minute. In addition, the movement features a steering wheel-inspired rotor.

Key facts and price

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye
Ref. CBS2015.EB0381 (stainless steel)
Ref. CBS2041.EB0382 (18k 3N yellow gold)

Case diameter: 42 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Steel or 18k 3N yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. TH20-08
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and chronograph
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 80 hours

Strap: Steel model has a matching steel bracelet with additional black leather strap; gold model is delivered with a pair of leather straps in black and brown

Availability: Now at TAG Heuer retailers and boutiques
Price: US$10,250 in steel; US$24,600 in yellow gold

For more, visit tagheuer.com.

Gérald Genta distinctive, punkish “urchin” wristwatch gains a striking new look with the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal. Each of the 137 studs on the case carries a fire opal, while the dial is in orange carnelian that echoes the gemstones’ hue.

Mined from Mexico’s volcanic regions, fire opals stones derive their characteristic yellow, orange, or red pigmentation from water trapped in cooling lava.

Initial thoughts

Although the Gérald Genta brand was revived in 2023, well after the iconic designer’s passing in 2011, the brand has stuck closely to his original vision and style. The modern-day Oursin is a faithful remake of the 1994 original, a little larger in size but retaining all of the original’s quirky details, including the facetted crystal.

Unlike the fairly muted models unveiled last year, the new Oursin is bright and bold. While it incorporates gemstones and colours that found on the original (which was also fairly muted), the orange hue feels perfectly appropriate for the design. It is an apt evolution of the original, and the late Genta would have approved.

Fire opals

While the new Oursin differs from Genta’s original with its fire opals and carnelian, the core design elements remain faithful to his blueprint.

Crafted from 18k yellow gold, the case measures 36.5 mm in diameter and 9.64 mm in thickness, making it slightly larger than the original. The case is studded with 137 fire opals, each individually secured with 18k yellow gold pins. An orange carnelian dial that complements the gems’ hue is covered by a faceted crystal, another hallmark of Genta’s designs.

Powering the watch is the cal. GG-005, which is actually a Zenith Elite and an upgrade over the 1990s original’s ETA 2892. It’s an automatic movement that runs at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz) and offers 50 hours of power reserve. Here it’s dressed up with a rotor in 18k yellow gold.

Key facts and price

Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal

Diameter: 36.5 mm
Height: 9.6 mm
Material: Yellow gold 3N with 137 fire opal gems
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: GG-005 (Zenith Elite)
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hours (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Black alligator leather

Limited edition: No, but limited production
Availability: Available starting May 2025
Price: Price on request

For more information, visit Geraldgenta.com

Zenith’s latest release is an evolutionary take on its popular sports chronograph with an integrated bracelet: the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton builds upon the original version by open working the dial and main plate of the El Primero calibre.

The dial is skeletonised to form a star, Zenith’s longtime emblem and a recurring theme of its skeleton watches. Apart from the open-worked dial, the new Defy remains essentially unchanged from the standard model, keeping the same 42 mm octagonal case topped by a 12-sided bezel.

Initial thoughts

Zenith’s El Primero was a milestone as one of the first automatic chronograph calibres. The new Defy is equipped with the second-generation El Primero, the cal. 3600, which is one of the biggest strengths of the watch. Notably, the movement has a lightning chronograph seconds completing a full revolution every 10 seconds, allowing the chronograph to measure up to 1/10th of a second (if your fingers work the pushers fast enough).

That said, the watch does feel a little derivative in terms of design. While the look is not particularly creative or original, it nonetheless presents a visually striking aesthetic. The combination of satin-brushed and polished surfaces on the case and bracelet are done well. Compared to other watches it resembles (from the likes of Audemars Piguet and Hublot), the Defy is arguably better value.

Priced at US$15,500, the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton is one of Zenith’s pricier offerings, but arguably good value considering the movement and overall execution.

Open-worked

The new Defy chronograph employs the same case as the solid-dial version. The 42 mm stainless-steel case is octagonal in form but crowned by a 12-faceted bezel, which is the defining element of the Defy line. It’s delivered with the familiar integrated steel bracelet, but also accompanied by a colour-matched rubber strap.

The highlight is the open-worked dial and movement finished in either black or blue. The skeletonisation forms a star and also echoes Zenith’s “double Z” motif, a hallmark of the brand since the 1960s.

The grey sub-dials are also open-worked, while the faceted baton hour markers and hands are filled with Super-LumiNova for legibility in low-light. The contrast between the time indications and the open-worked components give this better legibility than the average skeleton watch.

Visible through the sapphire case back is the El Primero 3600 that beats at 36,000 beats per hour, as is traditional for the El Primero. Being a new development, the movement offers 60 hours of power reserve.

That complication that sets the cal. 3600 apart from the first-generation El Primero is the lightning seconds hand that can measure 1/10th of a second thanks to a central seconds hand that speeds around the dial once every 10 seconds, or six times the speed of a conventional seconds hand.

Key facts and price

Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton
Ref. 03.9500.3600/78.I001 (black)
Ref. 03.9500.3600/79.I001 (blue)

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: El Primero 3600
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet, with additional rubber strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available in all Zenith boutiques and authorised retailers
Price: US$15,500

For more, visit Zenith-watches.com.

Louis Vuitton starts 2025 with a surprise, the Tambour Convergence. Modelled on traditional “digital” pocket watches, the Convergence indicates the time with discs visible in a pair of small windows at the top of the face. The unusual design, coupled with the compact, 37 mm case gives the Convergence an elegant, vintage-inspired aesthetic atypical of Louis Vuitton.

Equally notable is the newly-developed in-house calibre inside, the LFT MA01.01. The movement is of a family of movements that will underpin Louis Vuitton’s timepieces going forward; variants of the movement are also found in the new Tambour Taiko Spin Time.

Initial thoughts

The Convergence is unexpected because it isn’t typical of Louis Vuitton. The vintage-inspired styling and proportions are almost antithesis of the brand’s conventional look, which was historically colourful and modern. Even though such territory is relatively new to Louis Vuitton, the Convergence is executed well.

The design has intrinsic appeal, and shows off good proportions and details. The Convergence demonstrates the refined style of the redesigned Tambour case, which barely resembles the chunky original that was often thick and paired with narrow lugs. While I myself liked the quirk look of the original Tambour, the revamped model is undoubtedly more elegant and consequently will have a wider appeal.

The Convergence debuts in pink gold

The Convergence does well in almost all respects – fit, finish, design, and dimensions – save for the fact that the time display is a “dragging” indicator instead of a jumping display.

Granted, a jumping display would have entailed a trade-off in terms of power reserve, amplitude, or thickness, but it might have been worth it given the added technical sophistication. A jumping hours alone would have been interesting, while a double-jumping display would have been the technical ideal (but probably impossible while retaining the same dimensions and specs).

And a second version in platinum with “snow-set” diamonds

On a wider level, the Convergence reflects Louis Vuitton’s evolution towards watches oriented to watch enthusiasts, an impetus that comes from Jean Arnault, the director of Louis Vuitton watches and himself a collector with well-honed tastes.

The specific feel of the Convergence, with its slim dimensions and refined proportions – it is almost identical in size to the Philippe Dufour Simplicity – feels like it emerged from the experience and knowledge an enthusiast, particularly since this isn’t Louis Vuitton’s historical speciality. It will be interesting to see where this evolution takes Louis Vuitton, given the brand is armed with more resources than any other.

Classical styling

The Convergence gets its name from the vertically integrated Louis Vuitton manufacture in Geneva that’s comprised of several workshops that have “converged” to create the watch.

La Fabrique des Arts is dedicated to artisanal decoration and is responsible for the gem-setting, while La Fabrique des Boîtiers produced the Tambour case. And of course the movement was developed by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the primary Louis Vuitton watchmaking facility in Geneva. All of these workshops are located a few minutes from each other in the Geneva suburb of Plan-les-Ouates, home to numerous watchmakers besides Louis Vuitton.

The Convergence debuts in two variants, one in 18k pink gold with a polished front, and the other in platinum fronted by 795 snow-set diamonds totalling 1.71 carats.

Both have time display discs of brass plated to match the case material, while the numerals and scales on the discs are a uniform dark blue across the models.

The redesigned Tambour case of the Convergence borrows the slim, sloped case middle found on the Tambour with an integrated bracelet, but matched with the hollowed out lugs that are now a trademark of the design.

The case middle is brushed, while the bezel is polished. And because the lugs are separate components, they boast a complex finish that would be impossible if they were fabricated as integral with the case. Each lug has polished outer surfaces on the top and side, while the concave hollow on the side is frosted with laser, giving it a granular finish.

The “face” of the watch is essentially the bezel, which covers the entire front save for two windows at 12 o’clock. The upper window indicates the hours, and the lower window the minutes, with an applied lozenge pointing to both simultaneously.

The Convergence is powered by the LFT MA01.01. It’s part of a new family of high-end industrial movements that will become the workhorses of Louis Vuitton’s line-up.

Compared to the outsourced movement of the 2023 Tambour (that was produced by Le Cercles des Horlogers), the LFT MA01.01 is evidently a more sophisticated construction. One of the most obvious upgrades is the free-sprung balance wheel with a screwed Geneva stud to secure the hairspring.

The movement is decorated in the distinctive style first seen on the 2023 Tambour that’s now the signature of Louis Vuitton’s in-house movements. Laid out in a circular manner, the bridges are finished with frosting ringed by raised borders, while the rotor is 18k pink gold with an engraved repeating “V” motif on its rim.

As dictated by the smallish case, the LFT MA01.01 is compact movement with a shortish 45-hour power reserve. It runs at 4 Hz, or 28,8000 beats per hour, as is expected of a modern movement. Presumably the future, wider calibres in the family will have a longer power reserve.

Key facts and price

Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence
Ref. W9PG11 (pink gold)
Ref. W9PT11 (platinum)

Diameter: 37 mm
Height: 8 mm
Material: 18k pink gold; platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. LFT MA01.01
Functions: Dragging hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Camel calf leather strap; blue calf leather strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Louis Vuitton boutiques
Price: €37,000 in pink gold; €67,000 in platinum with diamonds (prices include VAT)

For more information, visit LouisVuitton.com.

Continuing with its revival, Daniel Roth debuts its second modern-day timepiece, the Extra Plat Souscription. Hewing to the formula established by the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription stays faithful to the 1990s original in size and style, but is equipped with an all-new calibre developed from the ground up.

Like the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription debuts as a 20-piece limited edition in 18k yellow gold, matched with a guilloche dial in solid 18k yellow gold.

Initial thoughts

As with the Tourbillon before it, the Extra Plat Souscription looks and feels like the original at a distance, but reveals a higher degree of refinement up close. This is especially evident on the dial that is covered in finely grained guilloche, done with a hand-operated straight-line engine.

In fact, the Extra Plat is arguably more sophisticated than the equivalent original, more so than the Tourbillon. The 1990s-era model was fitted with Frederic Piguet movements, either manual-wind or automatic depending on the variant, which were fine calibres but relatively industrial and widely used by higher-end brands like Blancpain.

The DR002 in the new Extra Plat, on the other hand, is a new construction with the refinements expected in a watch of this calibre (and price). It’s shame that the movement is concealed behind a solid back, but that will become an open back with the subsequent, regular-production version.

While the new Extra Plat is a beautiful homage that substantively improves on the original in terms of quality, I wish it was not so much of a remake in terms of size. I would have loved a case equally thin but a little larger, simply as a matter of preference.

Simple but not plain

The 18k yellow gold case takes the signature double-ellipse form of Daniel Roth, and it measures a compact 35.5 mm by 38.6 mm, with a height of just 7.7 mm. That’s almost exactly identical to the 1990s original. In fact, the length and diameter are the same as that of the Tourbillon Souscription, but the Extra Plat is naturally much thinner.

The Extra Plat case has undergone the same gentle redesign applied to the Tourbillon. So instead of angular lugs with straight lines, the lugs are curved downwards to echo the rounded form of the case. As with the Tourbillon, the case of the Extra Plat is produced the old fashioned way, with each lug being a separate piece that is soldered to the case middle.

The same traditional approach is taken with the dial, which is finished with clous de Paris guilloche. Made of 18k yellow gold, the dial blank is engine turned on by hand on a manual guilloche engine. And unlike the Tourbillon Souscription that relied on a dial made by Voutilainen’s Comblemine (now known as Brodbeck), the Extra Plat’s dial is made in-house at La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the manufacture owned by Louis Vuitton in Geneva.

The guilloche is especially well done, with a fine grain made up of sharply defined tiny pyramids. This reflects the surprising degree of vertical integration at LFT, which now not only does its own guilloche, but also other artisanal crafts like enamelling and micro-sculpture.

The most notable aspect of the Extra Plat is the DR002 movement. Though it’s a new calibre, it shares the aesthetic language of the DR001 found in the Tourbillon with elegantly formed bridges, an exposed polished crown wheel, and a linear winding click.

Moreover, the movement has the technical features expected of a high-end modern calibre, including a free-sprung balance running at 4 Hz and a usefully long 65-hour power reserve. It doesn’t have an overcoil hairspring but that’s forgivable considering that it’s an extra-thin movement that’s just 3.1 mm high.

Key facts and price

Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription
Ref. DBBE01A1

Diameter: 38.6 x 35.5 mm
Height: 7.7 mm
Material: Yellow gold 3N
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. DR002
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Calfskin leather strap

Limited edition: 20 pieces
Availability: At Daniel Roth retailers
Price: CHF45,000 excluding taxes

For more information, visit DanielRoth.com.