Breguet is marking its invention of the tourbillon – way back in 1801, or 220 years ago – with an elegantly simple variant of its extra-thin tourbillon. The Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Anniversaire 5365 is classically Breguet in style, with a handful of aesthetic flourishes to mark it out as an anniversary edition. And it is truly a limited edition of only 35 watches, which is also the number of tourbillon pocket watches Abraham-Louis Breguet made in his lifetime.

Initial thoughts

Breguet’s Tourbillon Extra Plat is already impressively executed for a slim, simple watch, especially with a skeleton movement. The cal. 581 inside is typical of modern-day Breguet movements – incorporating technology in the form of a silicon hairspring and escapement, while boasting a high level of hand finishing.

Fortunately, the anniversary edition doesn’t try to do too much differently. In fact, it is almost indistinguishable from the standard version. But that simplicity is appealing because it captures the spirit of Breguet, especially in its details like the off-centre dial and spherical, gold minute markers.

Perhaps the only downside of the watch is its thinness. The case is so slim that its relatively wide diameter gives it disc-like proportions on the wrist, especially with its narrow, long lugs.

A subtle tribute

Just two small details on the dial mark it out as the anniversary edition. One is engraved just above the tourbillon aperture, the number of the patent awarded to Breguet in 1801 for the tourbillon. And the other is more unusual – the tourbillon bridge is blued steel, a first for the brand.

The tourbillon is straight grained and bevelled before being heat blued

And the movement is also decorated differently. The bridges have a simple, straight grained flush, but accented with wide, rounded bevelling.

The silicon hairspring and escape wheel are visible within the tourbillon cage, contrasting against the traditional, wide anglage on the bridges

Engraved by hand on the barrel and going train bridges is a reproduction of Breguet’s original drawing for the tourbillon that was part of his 1801 patent filing.

All of the lettering on the bridges is also hand engraved

Key facts and price

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Anniversaire 5365
Ref. 5365BR/15/9WU

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 7.45 mm
Material: 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 581
Functions: Hours and minutes; tourbillon regulator
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 80 hours

Strap: Alligator with folding buckle

Limited edition: 35 pieces
Availability: Only in boutiques
Price: US$161,800 (or 232,500 Singapore dollars)

For more, visit Breguet.com