The most elegant tourbillon in Breguet’s line-up, the Tourbillon Extra-Plat is just 7.45mm high. Introduced in 2017 with a sublime fired enamel dial, it’s been transformed into an open-worked watch as the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395.
The new tourbillon is not merely a skeletonised version of the earlier watch, although Breguet says some 50% of the mass of the movement has been removed.
To start with, the bridges and base plate are in 18k gold that’s been grained, chamfered, and engine-turned by hand.
Even though the watch has no dial, the face is still decorated with Breguet’s signature guilloche. Sections of the base plate have been engraved with Clous de Paris, or hobnail, guilloche. And the brand name and serial number on the front, as well as the logo on the rotor, are engraved by hand (while the rest of the engraving is mechanically done).
The Roman hour markers are galvanically deposited on the clear sapphire chapter ring that also has a blued gold hobnail to indicate each hour.
And to maximise visibility of the movement, the watch is fitted with a domed, “glass box” sapphire crystal, instead of the usual flat crystal found in most Breguet watches.
But being a Breguet, the movement has a significant degree of technology. Just 3mm high, the cal. 581 is automatic, thanks to a barely-there peripheral rotor that helps minimise its thickness.
The lightweight tourbillon carriage is titanium, while the escape wheel and flat hairspring are in silicon. That explains why the power reserve is a long 80 hours, despite the relatively high frequency of the balance wheel, which runs at 28,800 beats per hour, or 4Hz, a third faster than the typical tourbillon.
Constructed in typical Breguet style with screwed lug bars and decorated with a fluting band, the case is 41mm in diameter, and 7.7mm wide. It’s available in 18k pink gold or platinum, each equipped with a movement in a contrasting colour of gold.
Material: 18k pink gold or platinum
Water resistance: 30m
Movement: Automatic cal. 581SQ
Power reserve: 80 hours
Strap: Alligator with folding clasp
Price and availability
The Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 is available in 18k rose gold (ref. 5395BR/1S/9WU), priced at at 220,000 Swiss francs, or 323,700 Singapore dollars.
And it is also available in platinum (ref. 5395PT/RS/9WU), priced at 235,000 Swiss francs, or 345,700 Singapore dollars.
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