Blancpain Traditional Chinese Calendar

2012 is the year of the Dragon and numerous brands have presented dragon themed watches. Most are unimaginative, with a dragon motif engraved or enamelled somewhere on the watch. Blancpain went a step further and presented an unusual perpetual calendar wristwatch at Baselworld 2012. Instead of the typical Gregorian calendar, this displays the traditional Chinese calendar. That’s not too surprising given China is Blancpain’s most important market by a substantial margin. The Chinese calendar is a lunisolar calendar. Some of the basic rules include the first day of each month starting on the dark moon. Each year has 12 months, but because the year is shorter than a solar year, a 13th month is added every second or third year. For an in-depth explanation, Wikipedia is a good place to go. All of that is displayed on the dial, as the Blancpain press release explains:

“The counter at 12 o’clock indicates the double-hour numerals and symbols (24-hour cycle); while the one at 3 o’clock shows the elements and the celestial stems (10-year cycle). The month of the Chinese calendar (12-month cycle), its date (30-day cycle) and the leap month indicator appear at 9 o’clock, while a 12 o’clock aperture reveals the zodiac sign of the year in progress (12-year cycle); and the moon phases are displayed at 6 o’clock.”

The Chinese calendar display is not too practical, so the Gregorian calendar date is displayed on blued steel serpentine hand in the centre.

This is not the first perpetual designed for a specific demographic. Gerald Genta once made an Islamic perpetual calendar. While this Blancpain novel and probably slightly more complex to execute than the conventional perpetual calendar, I wonder if a watch that so blatantly panders to the biggest watch market will actually appeal. The concept leaves me sceptical.   The case is 45 mm and features Blancpain’s patented under-lug correctors for the calendar, leaving the case band free of pushers. Inside is the in-house calibre 3638 with seven day power reserve. 

Platinum limited edition with dragon rotor; note the under-lug correctors

The dial is grand feu enamel, which explains the thickness of the dial visible through the windows for the calendar.

Grand feu enamel dial

The platinum version shown above is limited to 20 pieces, with a ruby set into the crown and a dragon engraved on the rotor. The rose gold model below is regular production.

– SJX

Blancpain Traditional Chinese Calendar in rose gold

Introduced just over a decade ago, the Chanel J12 in glossy ceramic has been so incredibly successful it’s one of the most widely faked watches in the world. 

Chanel J12 Matte Black 42 mm

Chanel makes its ceramic cases in-house, thanks to its ownership of La Chaux-de-Fonds case and buckle manufacturer G&F Chatelain, which counts amongst its clients MB&F and Bell & Ross. Now Chanel has unveiled three models in matte finish ceramic, which looks more masculine and also less inexpensive. I have always liked the Chanel J12; they are well made and not excessively expensive relative to technical horology brands. The new matte finished ceramic makes the J12 even more attractive. 

The basic model is the J12 automatic in a 42 mm matte ceramic case with an ETA calibre, pictured right. And there’s a J12 GMT as well. This is slightly smaller at 41 mm in diameter. I reckon the movement is an ETA 2892 with the second time zone modification.

Chanel J12 GMT

Lastly is the Rétrograde Mysterieuse Tourbillon. This limited edition of 10 pieces uses a movement from Renaud et Papi, which also supplies tourbillon movements for other Chanel watches. The most notable feature about this is a minute hand that travels backwards.

Chanel J12 Rétrograde Mysterieuse Tourbillon

When the minute hand hits the ten minute mark, it travels counter-clockwise and resumes its clockwise travel at the 20 minute mark. It does so to avoid the vertical crown which sits at three o’clock. Clever, if a little gimmicky.

– SJX 

Besides the vintage-styled Black Bay, Tudor also unveiled the 500 m titanium Pelagos diver at Baselword 2012. Our compatriots at Watchonista have shared a couple of sharp pictures with us.

Tudor Pelagos Photos courtesy Watchonista

Aside from the titanium case and bracelet, the Pelagos also has a helium release valve and a ceramic bezel insert. But what’s really notable is its self adjusting clasp – explained in this video. – SJX

Bernard Fornas

This has been rumoured for some time but finally the news is official, the current CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels, Stanislas de Quercize, will become the next CEO of Cartier once Bernard Fornas retires later this year. Given Cartier’s size and position, the Cartier CEO job is certainly one of the most influential in the industry. But also because Cartier is so large and established, I don’t forsee any drastic changes after the change in management.

Many of the top jobs in Richemont watch brands and the group itself are occupied by Cartier alumni, by virtue of it being the biggest brand of the group. Mr Quercize is not new to Cartier, he was President of Cartier North America before assuming the top job at VC&A in 2005.  Mr de Quercize has done an admirable job of growing VC&A into one of the largest brands in the Richemont stable so it is no surprise he is returning to run the largest brand. And given his track record Cartier’s strong run – it is about half of Richemont revenue now – looks set to continue. 

Mr Fornas, who turns 65 this year, will continue to have a management role at Richemont, as is tradition for ex-Cartier senior executives; he will remain on the Group Management Committee.

– SJX

Last year’s Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 1931 was a big success and so the variants have multiplied, including enamelled versions launched at SIHH 2012 and even a limited edition for the TV show “Mad Men”. One of the most striking versions is the Grande Reverso 1931 Rouge.

In the thirties JLC made the Reverso with various colourful dials, in addition to the more common black or white. The Reverso Rouge is a remake of a uncommon Reverso with a red dial. The Reverso Rouge has a glossy red lacquered dial with painted silver markers. The dial is a muted red tone, oxblood in colour that will work equally as well as a man’s or lady’s watch. On the other hand the original had luminous markers. And the shade of red used for the original is also slightly brighter. The Reverso 1931 measures 46 mm by 27.5 mm, while the original from the thirties is a dainty 38 mm by 23 mm.

And the modern 1931 is clearly a better watch than the original in the sense that the case is more rigid and substantial, which means much better water-resistance. I would think the pigments used for the dial and markers are superior as well, which means the dial would fade little in the coming decades. For someone who wants something with a bit more flair, the Reverso Rouge is the perfect alternative to the standard black dial Reverso 1931. Besides its unusual dial colour, the Rouge is only available at JLC boutiques which means it will be far less common than its black dial sibling. The retail price is USD8400. – SJX

Devon Works Tread 2

Devon Works, the American company that unveiled the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve-winning Tread 1 last year, has just presented the Tread 2. The premise remains the same – the watch displays the time on belts driven by gears with the whole mechanism powered by a rechargeable Li-ion battery that can be recharged wirelessly.

But unlike the Tread 1 which had three belts, including one for constant seconds, the Tread 2 is simplified with only two belts showing hours and minutes. The belts on the Tread 2 are mounted perpendicular to each other, in contrast to the Tread 1 which had the belts at an angle. 

Inspired by American aerospace manufacturing, the belts are a mere 2/1000th of an inch thick and driven by miniature motors controlled by an IC loaded with Devon’s proprietary software. According to Devon, the accuracy is +/- 0.5 seconds a day.

At 42 mm by 38 mm, the Tread 2 is more compact than its bigger brother. The case is in steel, with the option of black coating.

Quite appropriately the Tread 2 at US$10,000 is priced a third less than the Tread 1 which was $15,000. The Tread 1 is way cooler – watching the belts in action is utterly compelling and elicits tremendous comments from strangers – but the Tread 2 is a good follow-up at a more accessible price. Delivery will start in July 2012.

Interestingly aside from watches, Devon Works, founded by frozen garlic bread millionaire Scott Devon, makes all manner of cool stuff, including apparel, as well as a muscle car and a motorcycle. – SJX

Two weeks after the new no-date Submariner was presented at Baselworld 2012, Rolex announced the Deepsea Challenge made for filmmaker James Cameron’s Deepsea Challenger Expedition. Scheduled to take plan less than a week from now, the Deepsea Challenger expedition will see Cameron pilot a custom-designed submersible to Challenger Deep in the Mariana Trench, the deepest place on Earth at 35,800 ft or 10,912 m.

Built to withstand the awesome pressures at such depths – the watch will be strapped to a robot arm on the hull of the submersible – the Deepsea Challenge is a bulked-up Sea-Dweller Deepsea, with a depth rating of 39,370 ft or 12,000 m. A feat of engineering too large to wear, the Deepsea Challenge measures 51.4 mm wide, essentially the same size as a tin can. And it is 28.5 mm high – the height as four ordinary watches stacked up – with the sapphire crystal alone some 14.3 mm. That gives it a load resistance of 13.6 tonnes, equivalent to six sport utility vehicles.

The watch is constructed like that of the Sea-Dweller Deepsea, with the patented Ringlock system that’s centred around a nitrogen-alloyed steel ring inside the case. The crystal sides on the top of the steel ring, while a flexible titanium back covers the back. As the watch descends into the ocean, the pressure exerted forces the crystal and back against the ring, tightening the seals and ensuring nothing enters the case.

The Deep Sea Special, c. 1960

The Deepsea Challenger expedition is happening fifty two years after Rolex made a small number of Deep Sea Special watches, rated to 35,789 ft or 10,908 m, for Jacques Piccard’s  Trieste bathyscaph expedition that was the first to visit Challenger Deep.

Laurent Picciotto, the inimitable owner of Paris retailer Chronopassion, kindly allowed me to post a photo of his Panerai Submersible PAM 382 Bronzo. According to Laurent, this is the result of a mere ten days of swimming and kite surfing in the Caribbean. As you can see, the bronze alloy has developed an exceptional patina. Compare this well worn Bronzo with a month old Bronzo that has been worn regularly to the office, and the Bronzo prototype from 2011. The drastic differences in the alloy due to different environments are obvious. Thanks to Laurent for sharing this photo. And for those heading to Paris, Chronopassion on 271 rue Saint-Honoré is well worth a visit. It is a smallish store but incredibly well stocked, especially with outstanding pieces from avant-garde independents. – SJX 

Panerai PAM00382 Bronzo owned by Laurent Picciotto

The Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Bronzo PAM 382 is probably the most sought after Panerai limited edition of the last year (and probably even this year).

Panerai PAM382 Bronzo

Last year I covered the PAM00382 Bronzo prototype that had been travelling the world for some months. That Bronzo had acquired a substantial patina and looked much duller than when new.

In contrast, here is a newish Bronzo that has been worn regularly for about a month. Note how the bronze is has a strong colour, bright and reddish yellow.

According to the owner, the current finish is already quite a bit less bright than when it was new. When he collected the watch the bronze had a strong copper shade.

Lots of photos follow below.

– SJX

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