One of the most valuable watches to go on the block this auction season is the Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” 16599SAAEC. Part of Phillips’ Reloaded auction taking place on November 8, 2024, the Zenith-powered Daytona is the original “Rainbow”, having been produced in 1994, some 18 years before the serially-produced Daytona “Rainbow” was introduced.

Like all automatic Daytona models prior to 2000, this Daytona “Rainbow” is powered by the cal. 4030, which is a Zenith El Primero modified by Rolex. But this Daytona is unique in having a singular model reference of 16599 followed by the suffix “SAAEC”, short for saphir arc-en-ciel, French for “sapphire rainbow”.

A rainbow history

Though the Daytona “Rainbow” is perhaps the most famous gem-set Rolex model today, it took a while to catch on when it was introduced. It debuted as a regular production model in 2012 with the Daytona ref. 116598RBOW in yellow gold and ref. 116599RBOW in white gold.

The Daytona ref. 116599RBOW in white gold

At launch the Daytona “Rainbow” was not the object of frenzied desire as it is now, but by 2018 it was sought after. And that year Rolex debuted the Daytona ref. 116595RBOW in Everose gold that boasted the upgrade of baguette-cut rainbow indices.

The facelift was also applied to the yellow and white gold versions, both of which now sport baguette-cut rainbow indices as well. As with the first generation model, variants with gem-set dials and bracelets also exist.

The Daytona ref. 116595RBOW in Everose gold of 2018

But the Daytona was not the first Rolex Oyster with “rainbow” treatment. That distinction likely goes to the Day-Date dating to the 1980s.

The Day-Date refs. 18058, 18059, and 18188 are known with rainbow gemstones, each executed differently but instantly recognisable with the multi-hued bezel.

A Day-Date ref. 18188 dating to 1983

The original Daytona “Rainbow”

Though the Daytona “Rainbow” ref. 16599SAAEC is being sold publicly for the first time now, it has been known for some years now.

The watch was originally sold in Saudi Arabia, before making its way to a collection in Dubai over a dozen years ago. The next owner was a gentleman who owned a famous collection of vintage watches and is the consignor of the watch.

The ref. 16599SAAEC is essentially a white gold Daytona of the period with the addition of a bezel with rainbow-hued sapphires set in a graduated pattern.

Interestingly, the rainbow bezel differs from today’s Daytona “Rainbow” because the colour graduation is inverted. On today’s models the greens are at three o’clock, while here they are at nine.

The rest of the watch is identical to the regular production model. This has the familiar white gold case with a hood in-between the lugs to create an integrated appearance for the leather strap, which was likely a glossy maroon when the watch was first sold.

Likewise, dial is identical to that of the standard version of the ref. 16599. It’s paved with brilliant-cut diamonds and has brilliant-cut sapphires for hour markers, along with minute numerals at the quarters.

With an estimate of over CHF3 million, the Daytona “Rainbow” is lot 27 in Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999 on November 8, 2024 in Geneva at the Hotel President. For more, visit Phillips.com.

Ulysse Nardin’s entry-level Freak has been dressed up with a flinque enamel dial in a limited edition for Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the Middle East’s most prominent luxury watch retailer. The Freak X Enamel Seddiqi features a “Yas Blue” guilloché enamel dial with the signature carousel carrying an oversized oscillator and silicon escapement that acts as a minute hand.

Initial thoughts

The Freak X is a descendent of the original Freak, but simplified for user-friendliness and affordability. The Seddiqi edition combines the appeal of the Freak X with an artisan ally decorated dial – a combination of contrasts that are complementary.

While the enamel might seem contrary to the high-tech nature of the Freak X, it complements the aesthetics of the watch. The striking, translucent enamel forms a pleasing backdrop for the carousel.

Priced at AED154,000 or around US$42,000, the Freak X Enamel Seddiqi is a little more expensive than the base model Freak X, but still amongst the most affordable Freak models.

Inversed calibre

In 2001, Ulysse Nardin revolutionised watchmaking the Freak, a watch that reimagined the conventions of movement construction with an unprecedented design that relocated the going train and oscillator to double as the minute hand. And the watch was the first-ever application of silicon in watchmaking.

The Freak X has the trademark carousel minute hand, but features a convenient automatic movement and crown, eliminating the need to wind the watch every few days and allowing for easy time adjustment.

The Seddiqi edition retains the same case as the standard version that’s 43 mm in diameter by 13.78 mm in thickness. But it is set apart by the “Yas Blue” guilloché and enamelled dial was inspired by the Sun setting over the waters of Yas Island in Abu Dhabi.

The dial is crafted by the artisans of Ulysse Nardin’s Donzé Cadrans in Le Locle. It’s made up of four layers of translucent enamel applied over a guilloche surface.

The self-winding UN-230 has the oversized balance wheel and silicon escapement on the form, carried by a carousel that acts as a minute hand. The movement has 72 hours of power reserve and beats at 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz).

The rest of the movement is visible through the back, revealing the open-worked rotor with the “UN” logo on satin-brushed bridges with blued screws.

Key facts and price

Ulysse Nardin Freak X Enamel Seddiqi
Ref. 2303-270LE-3AE-SED/3A

Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 13.78 mm
Material: Grey titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. UN-230
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Black ballistic rubber strap with white stitching

Limited edition: 30 pieces
Availability: Now at Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons
Price: AED154,000, or about US$42,000

For more, visit ulysse-nardin.com.

This was brought to you in partnership with Ulysse Nardin.

Continuing its annual tradition, Patek Philippe has just revealed its unique creation to benefit Children Action, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A. Slated to be sold at auction with all proceeds going to the Geneva charity, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A is entirely stainless steel and entirely engraved.

The engraved Nautilus is the latest one-off wristwatch Patek Philippe has created for the charity founded by Swiss financier Bernard Sabrier that helps disadvantaged children. Past watches include the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524T in titanium and last year’s ref. 5270T in titanium with a green dial that sold for almost CHF10 million.

The case, bezel, bracelet, and case back are hand engraved with a “Maori-inspired” motif that’s matched with a dark grey dial. While aftermarket engraving has been applied to various Nautilus models in the past, this is the first factory-original specimen decorated in this manner.

Patek Philippe’s catalogue does include several complicated models decorated with engraving, most famously the Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002, but they all complicated and in precious metal. This is the first and only Nautilus (or sports watch of any sort) with an engraved case, and also the only steel model with engraving.

The watch is accompanied by a pair of matching cufflinks in engraved steel, which are equally unique as Patek Philippe ordinarily only sells gold cufflinks.

The matching cufflinks ref. 205.9057A-010

The Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A will be sold at the Children Action gala dinner in Geneva on November 25, 2024 with Aurel Bacs of Phillips conducting the auction. All of the proceeds from the watch, which will inevitably be several million francs, will go to Children Action. For more, visit Childrenaction.org.

Sotheby’s upcoming Geneva auction includes Treasures of Time, a small but impressive collection of watches consigned by a European gentleman of evidently sophisticated taste. While the most valuable of the 31 lots in the collection is a first-series ref. 2499 in pink gold, the most striking watch is arguably this Patek Philippe ref. 2499 third series with a glossy black dial featuring Breguet numerals.

Only six examples of the ref. 2499 are known to have a black dial, and this is one of them. The black dial with Breguet numerals gives the watch tremendous appeal and presence on the wrist.

Beautiful as it is, however, this ref. 2499 is not absolute perfect from a historical perspective as the black dial was added long after the watch was made.

The watch was originally sold by Patek Philippe in 1964, probably with the typical silver dial, and it gained this black dial sometime in the 1980s.

According to its well documented history, the owner of the watch in the 1980s was an important enough collector that when he asked for a black dial with Breguet numerals, Patek Philippe said yes. The dial was thus produced by Stern Frères and installed in the watch.

It’s worth noting that most of the six known ref. 2499s with a black dial have a similar history in that the black dials were subsequent additions.

Though it’s clearly not a vintage dial, Stern Frères executed it well. The dial is finished with a glossy black lacquer and gold powder print, while the indices are applied Breguet numerals in solid gold to match the hands and case.

This is not the only ref. 2499 with a black dial subsequently installed, but it is the only one known with Breguet numerals instead of batons. The numerals add a great deal to its charm.

As for the rest of the watch, it is in good condition. It’s clearly been serviced before, but treated finely and sympathetically so it retains much of its original appeal.

If I were the fortunate type of watch enthusiast who collected at this level, this ref. 2499 would be a top pick for an everyday watch. It is not certified perfect, but it possesses a special charisma when on the wrist. (But I would still set aside a few more million for a perfect watch with an archive-certified special dial).

This specimen was last sold publicly in November 2010 at Christie’s Geneva, where it achieved CHF579,000 including fees. On November 10, 2024, it will once again go under the hammer, this time at Sotheby’s in Geneva with an estimate of CHF1.0-3.0 million.

As a point of reference, a comparable ref. 2499 with a redone black dial (though originally with a black dial when it left the factory) sold in 2022 at Phillips for just under CHF1.2 million including fees.

For more, visit the catalogue at Sothebys.com.

One of the most significant examples of contemporary watchmaking, the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité “15/93” will soon go on the block at Phillips. Consigned by the estate of the original owner – meaning it’s a one-owner watch for over three decades – the “15/93” prototype carries within it the magic of independent watchmaking to a degree that rivals the landmark timepieces like the George Daniels Space Traveller’s Watch.

The history of this tourbillon is well known: it is the second wristwatch made by François-Paul Journe, and the first one he sold. In early 1992 he sold it to a Parisian collector for a price that in hindsight is profoundly ridiculous, but was probably an extraordinary price to pay for a watch like this at the time.

The gentleman who bought it owned it for some 32 years and clearly wore it often. There is no doubt he understood what the watch represented, even years ago before it was valuable, because he retained all of the original documentation that came with the watch, including copies of the technical plans. To the late original owner of this watch: you have my respect and admiration.

“Prototype”

Although I describe this as a prototype, it more accurately one specimen of a small series of hand-made watches. This series formed the template for the later Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité that was produced on a larger scale, albeit only numbering in the dozens, initially by hand and then with more industrial methods when Francois-Paul Journe became a brand.

There are two other watches like this, the first example marked “11/91” that was retained by Mr Journe – arguably the true prototype – and today sits in the manufacture, and the final watch, marked “16/93”, which was sold to another collector.

The numbers refer to the sequence and year of production, so “15/93” is the 15th watch (both wrist and pocket) produced by Mr Journe and completed in 1993. No doubt convinced by the character of “11/91”, the original owner paid for this watch in 1992 and received it a year later.

The template

Looking at “15/93”, it is clear that Mr Journe had a clarity of vision right from the beginning. Mr Journe related to me in the past that his tourbillon wristwatch was inspired by several historical greats that served as his role models, including Abraham-Louis Breguet, Ferdinand Berthoud, and little-known Swiss clockmaker Jost Bürgi.

Their influence in obvious in the complications – Breguet for the tourbillon and Bürgi for the constant force – as well as the styling, which instantly evokes Breguet and Berthoud.

Most of the elements that would later go on to define this brand are in the watch, ranging from the gold dial, off-centre time display, and exposed screws.

The flat, 38 mm case is nearly identical in size to the later examples, though there are several differences, including a prominent step on the bezel, wider lugs, and screwed bars for the strap. The crown too is an ordinary shape, and not the narrow (and impractical) form that the brand would later adopt.

In the same manner the dial has the details that would later define the F.P. Journe aesthetic, but in a raw execution and with interesting details that wouldn’t make it into the serially produced watches.

The time indication is a silvered guilloche register secured by steel ring, while the tourbillon cock is polished steel, just like the later production watches. But the details are different, the steel ring has an angular outline, instead of the fluid silhouette adopted later on.

But the most notable differences is probably the dial, which is not actually a dial. It’s instead the the base plate of the movement.

The base plate and bridges are solid gold, so the yellow gold dial is the underside of the gold base plate, not unlike historical pocket watches. Later watches would have an actual gold dial, but not a visible base plate again until the recent Tourbillon Vertical.

The rounded cock for the remonotir blade would be found on the initial batch of serially produced tourbillon watches

Though Mr Journe migrated to brass bridges in the serially produced Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite, he finally returned to an all-gold movement construction in 2004, a feature that has become one of the defining features of the brand.

One of the intriguing details: a stop pin for the power reserve indicator

The tourbillon cage is inspired by Ernest Guinand

Although this is by far the most important F.P. Journe wristwatch to emerge at auction ever, Mr Journe, in his typical manner, has been publicly silent about it, perhaps not to tilt the scales. But he did give the watch a once-over so it has been verified by the maker.

Estimated “in excess of CHF2 million”, the F.P. Journe tourbillon prototype is lot 14 in Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999 taking place on November 8, 2024 in Geneva at the Hotel President. For more, visit Phillips.com.