Well liked for its affordability and integrated-bracelet style, the Tissot PRX is now available in a novel material for the first time. The Tissot PRX 40 Powermatic Forged Carbon has a lightweight case of carbon composite matched with an integrated rubber strap, and it is equipped with a no-frills automatic movement.

Initial thoughts

From an LCD digital to a Grendizer edition, the iterations of the PRX are endless, but the model is still appealing with its simple style and inexpensive price tag. Like its peers, the PRX Forged Carbon model is a functional watch with a monochromatic aesthetic matches the design perfectly.

But it’s lighter than the steel versions of the model, and arguably more wearable. That said, carbon composite is not as durable as metal alloy, so this might not have the same easy robustness as the steel version.

At US$995, this does cost more than the base model PRX, but it is one of the most affordable Swiss-made watches with a carbon composite case and automatic movement.

No-frills fun

The new PRX retains the style and dimensions of its steel counterpart. The case is 40 mm in diameter and a one-piece construction of carbon composite with a press-fit steel back. It’s slight thicker than the steel model because the steel case back connects to an inner case of steel that sits within the carbon composite outer case.

The composite used for the case has a marbled finish that is typical of the material. Made up of white, grey, and black, the case is matched with a carbon composite dial featuring clean baton indices and hands that are filled with white Super-Luminova for a monochromatic look.

Inside is the Powermatic 80, a thoroughly industrial automatic that has a usefully long 80-hour power reserve. Variants of the movement are used by Tissot’s sister companies in the Swatch Group, including Swatch that employs the calibre inside the Blancpain-collaboration Scuba Fifty Fathoms.

Notably, the Powermatic 80 inside the carbon composite model has a silicon hairspring, while the lower-priced PRX models are mostly equipped with Nivachron hairsprings. While the practical advantage of silicon is likely nil for majority of wearers, it is a small extra that helps justify the higher price tag.

The movement is nothing to look at and probably should have been concealed behind a solid back

Key facts and price

Tissot PRX 40 Powermatic 80 Forged Carbon
Ref. T137.907.97.201.00

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.2 mm
Material: Carbon composite
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Powermatic 80
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 80 hours

Strap: Rubber strap

Availability: Now at boutiques and retailers
Price: US$995 before taxes

For more, visit Tissotwatches.com.

After having expanded the line-up of its bestselling, vintage-inspired Carrera “Glassbox”, TAG Heuer now turns to something modern, the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport.

Though it shares the Carrera moniker and TH20 movement, the new Extreme Sport chronograph is nothing like is retro counterpart. Available in titanium or 18k rose gold, the Carrera Extreme Sport is a big, bold chronograph with a skeletonised dial and integrated rubber strap.

And at the top of the new collection is the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport, which is the most modern take on TAG Heuer’s affordable double complication of chronograph plus flying tourbillon.

Initial thoughts

TAG Heuer’s offerings are now mostly either vintage-inspired and hyper-modern. The Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport definitely falls into the latter category. The open-worked dial is surprisingly intricate, with the X-shaped latticework finished with a combination of colour-treated frosted recesses and straight graining.

With a skeletonised dial and chunky case, the Chronograph Extreme Sport feels similar to other watches in this segment, though the case is distinctive as the Carrera design. For anyone who feels TAG Heuer’s vintage-inspired watches are too traditional, this has the same in-house movement but presented in contemporary package.

Like most watches of this style, the Chronograph Extreme Sport has an integrated rubber strap for a seamless clean profile, but never really fits as well as a conventional strap, particularly on smaller wrists. The ergonomics are especially noticeable on the heavier versions in 18k gold.

The orange chronograph is the most striking

The chronograph starts at US$8,200 in titanium, which puts it on even footing with comparable offerings from the likes of Breitling and Bell & Ross.

At US$26,100 in titanium, the Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport costs more than twice as much as the basic chronograph, but still remains amongst the most affordable chronographs-with-tourbillon on the market.

The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport in 18k rose gold

Carrera of the future

Echoing the hyper modern look of the Monaco Split-Seconds, the Carrera Extreme Sport has a dial open worked to form a large “X”. It reveals the base plate of the movement, along with a skeletonised date wheel that’s coated to match the dial colour, a rare instance where the date becomes an appealing element of the overall design.

Continuing on from the hyper modern dial design, the case of the Extreme Sport has recessed flanks with fluting, while the bezel is in black ceramic to contrast with the case. Though the design is entirely modern, a closer look reveals that the case is actually an evolution of the vintage Carrera case with an inner bevel on the inside of the each lug.

Available in either titanium or 18k rose gold, the case is big at 44 mm wide and just over 15 mm high. It’s not excessively big by the standards of sports chronographs, but the integrated rubber strap makes it feel a little larger than it is.

Identical in size and style is the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport that gains a flying tourbillon on the dial (and loses the date). Powered by the same base movement, the Chronograph Tourbillon sports a carbon composite bezel on its titanium variant, while the all-gold version has a matching gold bezel.

The Chronograph Tourbillon in titanium

Both the chronograph and chronograph-tourbillon are powered by variants of the same TH20 movement, which is derived from the Heuer 02, the brand’s longstanding in-house workhorse. The basics of the TH20 are column wheel and vertical clutch for the chronograph, along with a shield-shaped rotor visible through the display back.

The chronograph is equipped with the TH20-00, the base version of the calibre with a three-register chronograph, date, and a long 80-hour power reserve.

The TH20-00

Its upscale cousin, on the other hand, contains the TH20-09, which has a flying tourbillon on the dial at six o’clock. The specs are nearly identical, except the power reserve is a shorter 65 hours due to the additional energy consumed by the rotating carriage of the tourbillon.

The TH20-09 with its flying tourbillon

Key facts and price

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport
Ref. CBU2080.FT6272 (DLC titanium and black dial)
Ref. CBU2081.FT6274 (Titanium and blue dial)
Ref. CBU2082.FT6275 (Titanium and orange dial)
Ref. CBU2050.FT6273 (18k rose gold)

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 15.1 mm
Material: Titanium or 18k rose gold, with ceramic bezel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. TH20-00
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 80 hours

Strap: Rubber with matching folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at TAG Heuer boutiques and retailers
Price: US$8,200 in titanium; US$8,400 in DLC titanium; and US$12,300 in rose gold (prices excluding taxes)

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport
Ref. CBU5080.FT6272 (DLC titanium)
Ref. CBU5050.FT6273 (18k rose gold)

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 15.1 mm
Material: Titanium with carbon composite bezel; or 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. TH20-09
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, and flying tourbillon
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Rubber with matching folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at TAG Heuer boutiques and retailers in Europe
Price: US$26,100 in titanium; US$32,800 in rose gold (prices excluding taxes)

For more, visit Tagheuer.com.

Grand Seiko’s debuted its first-ever Spring Drive movement in 2004 with the cal. 9R65. Now the brand is marking 20 years of the 9R Spring Drive movement family with the Elegance Collection SBGY035 and SBGA499, both sporting striking red dials inspired by the sunlit autumn scenery around Mount Hotaka.

Part of the Thin Dress Series, the SBGY035 is flat and elegant, with a domed, textured dial. On the other hand, SBGA499 employs the classic Grand Seiko case and bracelet, matched with a sunburst-brushed dial in red that has the signature Spring Drive power reserve indicator at eight o’clock.

The SBGA499

Initial thoughts

I am a Grand Seiko fanboy. The brand offers a strong value proposition across its catalogue. Furthermore, Spring Drive is synonymous with Grand Seiko. The hybrid approach of Spring Drive means it boasts quartz-level accuracy despite being having an entirely mechanical mainspring and gear train.

The new pair are perfect representations of Grand Seiko’s approach to horology, both good and bad. The two watches are striking, especially since red isn’t a colour often employed by Grand Seiko. The SBGY035 in particular stands out since the textured red dial is uncommon for Grand Seiko and dress watches in general.

The SBGY035

That said, Grand Seiko’s limited editions feel too frequent, especially since many are only colour variations of each other. This is a regular criticism of Grand Seiko, but it hasn’t dampened sales of such limited editions, which probably indicates enthusiasts still appreciate the intrinsic qualities of Grand Seiko’s offerings.

Mount Hotaka

The SBGY035 and SBGA499 are based on regular-production models, but distinguished with red dials inspired by the morning landscape in autumn of Mount Hotaka, a peak located near the Shinshu Watch Studio that produces Grand Seiko Spring Drive models.

The SBGY035 features a stainless steel case that is 38.5 mm in diameter and 10.2 mm high, near-perfect proportions for a modern dress watch. Due to the short lugs, the SBGY035 wears compact and elegant.

Finished with Grand Seiko’s trademark zaratsu flat polishing, the case is mirror-polished on its tops and satin-polished on its flanks. The sapphire crystal is domed, echoing the vintage-style domed dial.

The dial is textured with a motif resembling random brushstrokes, and accented with a gold-plated “GS’ logo and seconds hand.

Under the sapphire back is the manual-wind cal. 9R31, one of the latest-generation Spring Drive movements. Accurate to +/- 15 seconds per month, it has 72 hours of power reserve. Like most newer Grand Seiko calibres, it is decorated with details like polished countersinks and blue-filled engraving.

Right next to the exposed barrel is a power reserve indicator

The SBGA499 has a more straightforward design that has been in Grand Seiko’s catalogue for over two decades.

The case is entirely polished steel and water resistant to 100 m. It measures 40.2 mm in diameter and 12.8 mm in thickness.

The sunburst red dial has applied indices and facetted hour and minute hands. The “GS” emblem is in gilt, as is the recessed, patterned scale for the power reserve indicator at eight o’clock.

The tried-and-tested cal. 9R65 inside is visible through the sapphire case back. Rated to +/- 15 seconds per month, it offers 72 hours of power reserve. Unlike the cal. 9R31, this is self-winding and is decorated in a more industrial style that is typical of earlier generation Grand Seiko movements.

Key facts and price

Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition
Ref. SBGA499

Diameter: 40.2 mm
Height: 12.8 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 9R65
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve indicator
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: Unavailable
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Matching stainless steel bracelet

Limited edition: 1,300 pieces
Availability: At Grand Seiko boutiques and retailers starting September 2024
Price: US$5,800

Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition
Ref. SBGY035

Diameter: 38.5 mm
Height: 10.2 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 9R31
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve indicator
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: Unavailable
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Brown crocodile strap with three-fold clasp with push button release

Limited edition: 700 pieces
Availability: At Grand Seiko boutiques and retailers starting November 2024
Price: US$8,500

For more, visit grand-seiko.com