Grand Seiko is celebrating the 20th anniversary of 9R Spring Drive movement with a pair of limited editions featuring dials inspired by the sunrise at Mount Hotaka, a peak near the Grand Seiko workshop in Shiojiri.

The first model is the Heritage Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary “Pink Snowflake” (SBGA497) that revisits the first ever watch model with the 9R but with the trademark “snowflake” dial in pink.

And the second is the Sports Collection Spring Drive GMT Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary (SBGE305) combining a black ceramic bezel with a dark red sunburst dial.

Initial Thoughts

The invention of the Spring Drive calibre is arguably one of Seiko’s most important achievements. It encompasses most of the advantages of mechanical movement while retaining the accuracy of quartz. Similar to a fully mechanical movement, it is powered by a spring rather than a battery, while timekeeping is regulated by a quartz crystal. As the first-ever commercially available Spring Drive variant, 9R marks an important feat for Grand Seiko.

Nevertheless, despite the two new releases being celebratory models for the 20th anniversary of the 9R Spring Drive movement, they don’t seem to offer anything remarkable or unprecedented.

Rather, the choice of a Hotaka mountain-inspired dial for both watches seems cliche, considering how pink and red colour dials have been relatively common in the brand’s catalogue. Plus, the inspiration behind Grand Seiko’s dial seems rather repetitive, as the brand too often makes dial patterns inspired by the landscape of where its watches are made.

The pink snowflake (SBGA497) is priced at US$6,300 and is limited to 1,500 pieces, while the new Sport GMT (SBGE305) is priced at US$6,200 and is limited to 1,300 pieces.

At around $6,000 retail, both offer a very good value proposition, considering how the standard snowflake and the standard Sport GMT from the brand are priced similarly. Grand Seiko, in general, is known for offering a good value proposition as their watches are hand-finished with the prominent zaratsu polishing technique and feature gorgeous dials with pretty unique patterns.

Sunrise at Hotaka Mountain

As always with Grand Seiko, the beauty of the dial takes centre stage for both watches. They are each a portraiture of the sunrise at Hotaka Mountain in Japan, with the pink snowflake dial of SBGA497 depicting the snowy winter scene while the dark red dial of SBGE305 captures the beauty of the mountain’s view during the summer.

Housed in a 41 mm case, SBGA497 is a three-hander watch made of high-intensity titanium, with a red power reserve indicator between seven and eight. SBGE305, however, sits inside a 40.5 mm stainless steel case and offers a GMT function. On the SBGE305, the wearer can change the time zone by manipulating the screwed-down crown. Both watches feature meticulously zaratsu-polished cases, hour markers, and hands, with contrasting mirror and satin-polished surfaces.

Inside the pink snowflake sits the Cal. 9R65 movement, which displays fine mirror-polished bevels amidst the prevalent “Tokyo stripes” throughout the movement. The movement inside Sport GMT is finished in the same spirit as that of the pink snowflake but is thicker due to the added GMT function. The movement engravings inside both 9R calibres pay tribute to the Shinshu region, with bridges and barrels echoing the ridges of the beautiful mountains.

Key facts and price

Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition 
Ref. SBGA397

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 12.5 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 9R65
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date and power reserve indicator
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: Spring Drive
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet

Limited edition: 1,500 pieces
Availability: At Grand Seiko boutiques and select retailers starting March 2024
Price: US$6,300

Key facts and price

Grand Seiko Sports Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition 
Ref. SBGE305

Diameter: 40.5 mm
Height: 14.7 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Cal. 9R66
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date and GMT function
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: Spring Drive
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet

Limited edition: 1,300 pieces
Availability: At Grand Seiko boutiques and select retailers starting March 2024
Price: US$6,200

For more, visit Grand-seiko.com.