Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive 8 Days Jewelry SBGD205

A US$185,000 Masterpiece.

For its 60th anniversary, Grand Seiko has just unveiled one of the most extravagant, and expensive, watches ever – the Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8 Days Jewelry Watch (ref. SBGD205).

Combining the flagship Spring Drive model – made at the artisanal Micro Artist Studio – with a lavish setting of diamonds and sapphires, the Spring Drive 8 Days Jewelry Watch is a departure from the typical, subtle formality of Grand Seiko design.

The base of the Spring Drive 8 Days Jewelry Watch is the SBGD201, an immense, heavy and refined wristwatch powered by the impressive 9R01 movement. Equipped with three barrels that give it a 192-hour power reserve, the 9R01 is finished to the same level as the much-vaunted Credor Eichi II, thought the massive full bridge means there are few details visible on the back.

The dial of the watch is unusual. Though Grand Seiko (and Seiko) have always produced jewelled watches for women, this is probably the first heavily gem-set men’s model in a long time.

The centre of the dial has a granular, slightly sparkly “dial dust” finish that is identical to the dial finish on the standard Grand Seiko 8 Days. But it has a subtle constellation of Leo – the Grand Seiko emblem is a lion – incorporated into the surface of the dial and visible only up close.

Around the diamond-dust centre are two white gold chapter rings, one set with large, baguette-cut stones and the other with smaller, brilliant-cut stone.

Each of the hours and five minute markings are indicated with blue sapphires, with the sapphire at 12 o’clock being slightly wider than the others to set it apart. And a large blue sapphire is set into the crown, adding up to 25 sapphires of 1.09 carats.

In between the sapphires are diamonds, functioning as minute markers of sorts, with a total of 96 diamonds weighing 2.25 carats on the dial.

Key facts

Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8 Days Jewelry Watch
Ref. SBGD205

Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 13.5 mm
Material: Platinum
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: 9R01
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, and power reserve indicator
Winding: Hand-wound Spring Drive
Power reserve: 8 days (192 hours)

Strap: Crocodile with folding clasp

Limited edition: 10 pieces
From June 2020 at Grand Seiko boutiques
Price: US$185,000, or ¥20 million (prices exclude taxes)

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