Omega is reissuing the Speedmaster CK2998 with the Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” that’s powered by powered by the latest-generation Moonwatch movement, the Co-Axial Master Chronometer cal. 3861.

But the “First Omega in Space” (FOIS) is also a keen-eyed remake of the original and sports a detail enthusiasts will appreciate: the stepped dial is a subtle grey-blue dial that replicates the unique colour found on certain vintage Speedmasters made in the 1960s.

Initial thoughts

Omega issues enough vintage-inspired Speedmaster models that even someone familiar with watches like myself is sometimes confused. For the uninitiated, the FOIS and Speedmaster 321 “Ed White” will look very similar, but for the enthusiasts the distinction is clear.

That said, the FOIS is one of the most appealing recent Speedmasters. The attention to detail in design is obvious and impressive.

Moreover it’s a vintage remake with a twist: the grey-blue dial is esoteric enough that it looks different, but still a detail that Speedmaster fans will appreciate. The faux-vintage lume is a bit too much, but from a design perspective it works as the parchment lume complements the grey-blue dial.

Add to that Omega’s typically high quality and relatively affordable price – this is marginally less expensive than the Moonwatch cal. 3861 with a sapphire crystal – and the new FOIS is both compelling and good value.

CK 2998 returns

The second Speedmaster model after the CK2915, the CK2998 was produced from 1959 to 1962. It is known as the “First Omega in Space” thanks to astronaut Walter “Wally” Schirra who wore an example – that he purchased personally – on the Sigma 7 mission of NASA’s Mercury program. When he took off on October 3, 1962, his CK2998 went along with him, making it the first Omega to leave the Earth.

Omega first reissued the CK2998 in 2012 with the original FOIS (ref. 311.32.40.30.01.001) that powered by the cal. 1861. The first FOIS was based on the vintage original, but not quite a faithful remake.

On the other hand, the new FOIS stays truer to the original, like many of Omega more recent remakes. It’s part of the Speedmaster Anniversary Series and is a regular production model.

Aside from being the right size and shape, the new FOIS incorporates all of the key details that define the vintage original, including the “dot over 90” aluminium bezel insert, “alpha” hands, and applied Omega logo on a stepped dial with long indices.

Most intriguing is the grey-blue finish on the radially brushed dial, which is achieved by chemical vapour deposition (CVD) and reproduces the same shade found on certain vintage Speedmaster dials from the 1960s. The dial and hands have parchment faux-vintage Super-Luminova to complete the vintage aesthetic.

Similarly, the case is a spot-on recreation of the vintage original. It is a compact 39.7 mm in diameter and 13.4 mm high, with a highly domed sapphire crystal that mimics the acrylic crystal of the CK2998.

Notably, the FOIS case appears to be identical to that of the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321, which is historically accurate since the first three Speedmaster models, the CK2915, CK2998, and 105.003 “Ed White” all employed the same “straight-lug” case.

While the styling is convincingly vintage, the movement inside is Omega’s latest and greatest. The cal. 3861 is essentially the original Moonwatch calibre enhanced with a Co-Axial escapement and proven by METAS testing for Master Chronometer certification.

Thought an industrial movement, the cal. 3861 is appealingly decorated and look good. Unfortunately, the movement is concealed beneath a solid back that’s historically accurate with a double-stepped edge and the Speedmaster seahorse logo, but with the addition of too much text commemorating the CK2998’s trip to space.

On its face the solid back might seem like a shame as the cal. 3861 is an appealing movement. That said, given the faithful vintage-inspired styling the FOIS, the solid case back is appropriate.

The cal. 3861 as seen in the Speedmaster Moonwatch

Key facts and price

Omega Speedmaster “First Omega in Space”
Ref. 310.30.40.50.06.001 (bracelet)
Ref. 310.32.40.50.06.001 (black leather strap)
Ref. 310.32.40.50.06.002 (brown leather strap)

Diameter: 39.7 mm
Height: 13.4 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 3861
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual wind
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet or leather strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Omega boutiques and retailers
Price: US$7,900 on steel bracelet; US$7,500 on strap

For more, visit omegawatches.com.

Nomos gently upgrades its classic wristwatch with a new calibre and double-date display: the Tangente 2date retains the signature Tangente design but with the addition of a quickset, twin date display.

The same date is indicate twice, on the date disc at six o’clock and then again with a pair of brackets on the date scale located on the dial’s periphery. It’s powered by the DUW 4601, a new calibre that’s based on Nomos’ longstanding Alpha movement.

Initial thoughts

The Tangente 2date is essentially another iteration of a familiar model, inside and out. Though it still makes appealing, well-priced watches, Nomos hasn’t introduced anything truly novel in some time, and the Tangente 2date reflects that.

As the name implies, the only novel element is the double date display that adds detail to the dial, which is fairly stark in its original iteration. At the same time, the date is useful in filling the excess space on the dial that results from the small movement relative to the case. However, the double date is redundant in terms of functionality, and from that perspective, feels gimmicky.

The view from the back is appealing, with the extra-wide date module forming a decorative ring around the base movement. The DUW 4601  movement, however, is not exactly novel. Though Nomos describes the calibre as “newly developed”, the DUW 4601 employs the basic architecture of the Alpha, which in turn was a reworked Peseux 7001. In fairness, the DUW 4601 is substantially upgraded over the Alpha, amongst other things with a longer power reserve thanks to a longer mainspring.

True to form for Nomos, the Tangente 2date is priced fairly at US$3,020. While the dial and case are simple, the movement quality and decoration are excellent for the price. That said, Nomos has gradually increased its prices (and quality) over the years, and now it sits in a price segment where the competition, like Longines for instance, is competent.

A double date

The 2date retains the Bauhaus-inspired, classic Tangente design with a simple, drum-like middle with a thin bezel and narrow lugs. Water-resistant to 50 m, the stainless steel case is 37.5 mm in diameter and 6.8 mm in thickness. Despite the relatively compact size, the case feels larger due to the elongated, angular lugs.

The 2date is offered with two dials, one galvanic silver-plated with black print and the other in sun-ray blue with white print. Both have the same Tangente design with ultra-thin, rhodium-plated hands along with alternating baton and Arabic markers.

The double date display is driven by the same mechanism, which advances a twin discs under the dial, one for the date window and another for the peripheral date apertures. Importantly, the date mechanism can be quickset via the crown.

The traditional date window sits at six o’clock, while the second date display is indicated by a date scale on the edge of the dial. Each date numeral sites in-between apertures, and the current date is highlighted by the apertures on each side. Both date displays are coloured coded for each dial colour: red on the silver dial, and white on the blue dial.

The 2date is offered with either a solid back or a display back that costs a little more. Both versions are equipped with the DUW 4601, which is an attractive calibre and justifies the extra for the display back.

The layout of the movement is familiar and essentially identical to the Alpha, the very first Nomos movement that was based on the Peseux 7001. Though the architecture is unchanged, the movement has been reworked in several ways, both functional and aesthetic, and is also now manufactured entirely in-house by Nomos.

Amongst the aesthetic tweaks is the skeletonised balance cock and radial “sunbeam” striping on the bridges that was previously found only on solid-gold Nomos models. The technical upgrades include a longer mainspring (made possible by thinner mainspring wire) that boosts the power reserve to 52 hours.

Key facts and price

Nomos Glashütte Tangente 2date
Ref. 135 (white with sapphire caseback)
Ref. 135.SB (white with steel caseback)
Ref. 136 (blue with sapphire caseback)
Ref. 136.SB (blue with steel caseback)

Case diameter: 37.5 mm
Case height: 6.75 mm for sapphire caseback; 6.65 mm for steel caseback
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. DUW 4601
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and double date display
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 52 hours

Strap: Horween shell cordovan with pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at NOMOS Glashütte boutiques and retailers
Price: US$3,020 for sapphire caseback; US$2,760 for steel caseback

For more, visit nomos-glashuette.com

Best known for its TV-shaped watch, Hautlence marks its 20th anniversary this year with something radically different, but also entirely apt: the Retrovision ’47. Cleverly inspired by a 1940s radio, the watch has a titanium case painted in a bright green that contains a self-winding movement with a flying tourbillon.

Though it’s powered by an existing movement (borrowed from Moser), the Retrovision ’47 is the brand’s first all-new model in a long time. Whether it marks a new direction for the brand is unknown, but it definitely makes a statement.

Initial thoughts

The Retrovision ’47 is a weird and interesting watch that is a surprisingly creative take on the vintage-inspired timepiece. Even though it is outlandish, the Retrovision ’47 is coherent. The watch achieves what it sets out to do: instantly evokes a vintage radio.

It’s paradoxical in several ways: not exceptionally large, but it stands out because of its shape and colour. And at a distance, the Retrovision ’47 resembles a plastic toy, but up close the fit and finish make it clear that this is a high-end watch.

I doubt I would wear one, but Hautlence should be commended for doing something bold and different. Beyond the watch itself, however, Hautlence still needs work.

Weird and wonderful as it is, the Retrovision ’47 doesn’t explain where Hautlence is going, or even what the brand is really all about now. Even though the watch has a quirky, intrinsic appeal, the brand behind it still needs clarity.

A weird little watch

Now a sister company of H. Moser & Cie., Hautlence enjoyed early success with its TV-shaped retrograde minutes and jump hours, but was more or less dormant for several years as its owners, the Meylan family, concentrated on Moser. As a limited edition of just ten watches, the Retrovision ’47 feels like a low-key reboot of the brand.

The Retrovision ’47 is modelled on the 5A5 radio made in the 1940s by General Television & Radio Corp., a long-defunct American electronics manufacturer. Like many radios of the period, the 5A5 was encased in Bakelite and other thermoplastics, and available in a range of colours, including green with a faux-marble effect.

The Retrovision ’47 next to the 5A5 radio that inspired it. Image – Hautlence

The Retrovision ’47 reproduces the look of the radio with a titanium outer case that’s been painted by hand to recreate the marbled green finish. The painted shell is surprisingly artful in replicating the look of the original. It encloses a titanium inner case that contains the movement, while two “carrying handles” form the lugs.

Measuring 39.2 mm by 44.4 mm, the case is chunky but not large, and thin at just 12.1 mm high. As a result, it doesn’t feel large on the wrist, though the green case has a more presence than far larger watches.

The face of the watch also mimics the radio, albeit without the knobs. The square window on the right shows the time, which is indicated by hour and minutes hands – the first time Hautlence is employing conventional hands in a watch.

Both hands are lacquered in red and sit on a gold-plated brass dial that’s stamped with the Hautlence logo, which is actually a Möbius strip.

Mechanical inside

A titanium grille form the “speaker” on the left, which is actually a window that reveals the flying tourbillon below. The tourbillon is barely visible even up close due to the grille, but it is essentially identical to that found in the Hautlence Linear since both are powered by variants of the same movement.

The tourbillon is identical to that found in the Moser calibre. It’s a flying tourbillon with a wide “V” cage that contains a screwed balance and more notably, a pair of hairsprings. The double hairsprings are made by Precision Engineering, the hairspring and components supplier that’s also owned by the Meylan family.

The twin hairsprings are essentially mirror images of each other since they are each secured in an inverse position relative to the other. Taken together, they expand and contract almost concentrically, improving chronometry and isochronism.

A near-identical tourbilllon found in a Moser Endeavour

The grille also incorporates a party trick: Super-Luminova is painted in between the slats of the grille in a “radio wave” pattern of concentric rings that glow in the dark, matching the luminous numerals on the time indication. The hands are not luminous, but this is definitely not a watch designed for optimal time-telling.

The Retrovision ’47 in the dark. Image – Hautlence

Visible through the display back is the D20, a movement based on Moser’s HMC 804 that’s found in the Endeavour Tourbillon amongst others. The D20 has been modified for the off-centre time display, but is otherwise identical in technical terms to the HMC 804. It’s automatic with a full rotor and a 72-hour power reserve.

The case back takes after the back of the 5A5 radio, with recesses on either side

The movement decoration is clean but still detailed. Though it’s mostly done by machine, the finishing includes hand-applied touches as well as extra like the screwed gold chaton for the barrel pivot.

The movement is finished conventionally and compared to the case, it is plain. It could have been dressed up more to match the quirky, retro case design, though that would probably increase the cost substantially.

Though the tourbillon is concealed on the front, its lower bridge is visible on the back. The bridge retains the familiar wide “V” form found in Moser tourbillons, and at its centre sits a bearing with ceramic balls. 

The visual appeal of the back, however, is hampered by the lengthy text printed on the underside of the crystal. There are six lines of unnecessary text detailing the model reference and movement specs, plus two more lines on the crown wheel of the movement.

The text is inspired by the reverse of the 5A5 radio that includes operating instructions and safety warnings. While the idea makes sense, the execution doesn’t quite work. Not only does the text get in the way of the view, but typography doesn’t quite look in a period correct. This is arguably the only design misstep in the watch, but fortunately it’s on the back.

Key Facts and Price

Hautlence Retrovision ’47
Ref. ED20-SP00

Diameter: 39.2 mm by 44.4 mm
Height: 12.1 mm
Material: Titanium with hand-painted shell
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: D20
Functions: Hours, minutes, and flying tourbillon
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Red calfskin with folding clasp

Limited edition: 10 pieces
Availability: At Hautlence retailers retailers
Price: CHF60,000

For more, visit Hautlence.com.

Having been a fait accompli since the summer, LVMH is now a key sponsor of Formula 1. Starting in 2025, the 10-year sponsorship deal will see the French luxury group become a top-level sponsor of F1. Several LVMH brands will be part of the sponsorship, including Louis Vuitton, TAG Heuer, and its drinks division Moët Hennessy that owns champagne makers like Moët & Chandon.

Coming just after Louis Vuitton’s high-profile presence at the 2024 Paris Olympics, the F1 sponsorship deepens the group’s involvement in sports and popular culture. Spearheaded by Frederic Arnault, the head of LVMH Watches, the deal is worth about €100 million annually according to an LVMH insider.

“For many years, several of our Maisons have also chosen to invest in Formula 1…”, said Mr Arnault, “We want to further grow this experiential dimension that Formula 1 provides all over the world.”

From left to right: Stefano Domenicali, President & CEO of Formula 1; Greg Maffei, President & CEO, Liberty Media; Bernard Arnault, Chairman & CEO, LVMH Group; and Frédéric Arnault, CEO, LVMH Watches

LVMH takes the place of Rolex as a “Global Partner” of Formula 1, the highest-level of sponsorship, putting the group alongside Amazon and Aramco. The deal was sealed as Formula 1’s owner, American entertainment giant Liberty Media, has successfully grown F1 beyond its traditional audience with new race locations like Las Vegas, a hit Netflix reality series, and an upcoming movie starring Brad Pitt.