The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Goes Two-Tone

Steel, cal. 3861, and Moonshine or Sedna gold.

Omega continues to expand the range of its famous chronograph with the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Bi-Colour. Following the recent Moonwatch with a white dial, the two-tone models are based on the Speedmaster cal. 3861 from 2021.

The new pair share the 42 mm case, stepped dial, and “Nixon” bracelet, but they get a two-tone livery with gold elements in the bracelet, bezel, dial, crown, and pushers. And the gold is, of course, either one of Omega’s proprietary alloys, Moonshine or Sedna gold.

Initial thoughts

Before the long-overdue update in 2021, most notably with the cal. 3861, the Speedmaster Moonwatch was beginning to feel dated in terms of tech and specs.

The iterations introduced since the update have been spaced out well and fill logical gaps in the Moonwatch lineup, essentially creating a variant of the Moonwatch for everyone. This two-tone pair is a good example of that.

Though steel-and-gold variants of the Moonwatch have existed in the past, they have never been common, or even that popular. The new models aren’t for everyone, but a useful addition to the lineup.

Both are Moonwatches in terms of intrinsic features and design, but look very different from the quintessential, no-frills steel model. The two-tone models cater to someone who wants a Moonwatch with a bit more shine and a slightly retro feel.

At US$18,100, the two-tone Speedmaster is a fair value proposition. It’s significantly pricier than the all-steel version, but priced in line with the industry norm for gold-and-steel.

Steel and special gold alloys

The two-tone Moonwatch retains the familiar 42 mm case with chamfered lugs, a stepped dial, and a Nixon-style bracelet (named after the all-gold Speedmaster model famous for being presented to Richard Nixon and other dignitaries of that era).

Most key elements are identical to those of the steel version. The bezel insert is ceramic, and the tachymeter scale is Ceragold, engravings filled with gold.

Two versions are available: steel with Moonshine gold or Sedna gold, which are Omega’s proprietary versions of yellow and rose gold respectively.

The Moonshine gold version has a brushed, silvery white dial and gold-tone sub-dials, with the indices, hands, and Omega logo in matching Moonshine gold.

The Sedna gold model has a higher contrast palette. The Sedna gold dial has black counters, while the hands, indices, and logo are in Sedna gold.

Inside is the cal. 3861, the latest generation Speedmaster movement. Based on the longstanding cal. 1861, it’s a manual-wind calibre running at 21,600 beats per second (3 Hz) with 50 hours of power reserve.

Like many higher-end Omega models, the Moonwatch is a Master Chronometer, meaning the movement has been tested by METAS on a variety of parameters, including resistance to magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss.

Key facts and price

Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch
Ref. 310.
Ref. 310.

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 13.2 mm
Material: 18k Moonshine yellow gold; 18k Sedna pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 3861
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and chronograph
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per second (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Two-tone Nixon-style bracelet in yellow gold or pink gold

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Omega boutiques and retailers starting June 2024.
Price: US$18,100

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Anoma Makes 1950s Asymmetrical Style Affordable

Asymmetric, geometric, and retro.

Newly established “micro” brand Anoma follows a familiar template: making particular vintage designs or genres affordable. But it’s approaching the concept with a different flavour. Instead of “sector” dials or Breguet numerals, the brand’s inaugural watch, the A1 First Series, is a clean, geometric form inspired by 1950s furniture.

Initial thoughts

The A1 is refreshing change from the typical “micro” brand offering that is too often a remake of a vintage Patek Philippe or dive watch. While the A1 won’t have the broad appeal of a conventional round watch, it is an interesting alternative for someone on a budget.

The A1 is more typical of “micro” brand offerings in its fit and finish. It is done well for the price, but some compromises had to be made to achieve the affordability. The gap between the case middle and back, for instance, is quite obvious. This isn’t a criticism but a fact true of all brands in this genre.

Vintage flavour

Founded by Matteo Violet Vianello, a management consultant who’s a watch entrepreneur on the side, Anoma aims to be a “experimental and daring vision of watch design”.

The A1 is not modelled on a watch, but instead a triangular table designed in the 1950s by French architect Charlotte Perriand. Earlier in her career Perriand worked at Le Corbusier’s studio, where she helped design several now-famous pieces of furniture, including the B 306 chaise longue.

The watch reproduces the outline of the table with the case and dial, but with the dial rotated a few degrees, resulting in an off-centre alignment that evokes some historical watches with asymmetrical cases.

The steel case is a simple, polished affair that contains a no-frills Sellita SW100. Like some watches of the historical period that inspired Anoma, the A1 has no lugs, but the strap instead is secured under the edges of the case.

The launch edition is fitted with a blue dial with a two-tone finish achieved with vertical brushing and three layers of lacquer.

This particular version in steel with a two-tone blue dial will only be produced during the pre-order period of a month starting from June 1, 2024. Delivery is expected in January 2025.

Key facts and price

Anoma A1 First Series

Diameter: 39 mm by 38 mm
Height: 9.45 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Sellita SW100
Functions: Hours, minutes
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Calfskin with pin buckle

Limited edition: First 100 watches numbered, not subsequent watches
Availability: During pre-order period from June 6-July 6, 2024, with delivery in January 2025
Price: £1,300 excluding taxes

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