Louis Erard has embarked on a journey into the realm of special dials lately, starting with grand feu enamel and followed by hand-made guilloche – done affordably as is typical of the brand. And now Louis Erard is continuing apace with Excellence Régulateur featuring dials in lapis lazuli, malachite, or aventurine glass.

But this time, however, the special dials are different. Louis Erard has opted for its signature regulator-style display, instead of the time-only format used on earlier editions, adding more character to the exotic-material dials. 

Initial thoughts

Regulators have long been a specialty of Louis Erard, and it’s a complication that’s uncommon this price point, especially a regulator with in-line hours, minutes, and seconds. The regulator watch has been the base for several interesting limited editions, especially the collabs with Alain Silberstein and Vianney Halter.

Despite not being a collab with a notable personality, the latest regularly is equally interesting, because the dial materials are typically found in watches at a much higher price point. Recent examples including the platinum Omega Seamaster 300 or even the multi-million dollar, piece unique Rolex Daytona in platinum.

In contrast, the new regulator is relatively affordable at just under US$3,200. At the same time, the regulator also costs less than the earlier special editions, namely the models with guilloche or enamel dials, making it an even better value proposition.

Though priced lower, the new regulator still looks good, with Louis Erard having smartly focused on the dial, while leaving the rest of the watch relatively simple. Its sub-dials are recessed, concentrically grained, and topped with applied markers and delicately shaped, “fir tree” hands.

From left to right, aventurine glass, lapis lazuli, and malachite

Blues and a green

The regulator trio is made up of dials in blue and green – all colours that are currently fashionable, but executed with classical extravagance.

Set against the background of semiprecious stone or glass, the twin sub-dials form a figure-of-eight that indicates the hours on top and seconds below. The display is powered by the brand’s in-house module mounted onto a Sellita base movement.

The module transforms a conventional, co-axial and central hand display into three separated hands that are arranged linearly and vertically, a feature originally found in regulator clocks that were used as reference timekeepers in watchmaking workshops and factories in the 18th and 19th century.

The most striking of the trio is the malachite dial model, which has a natural banded finish in a gradient of greens.

Between the pair of blue dials the lapis version stands out. It’s is made of a thin slice of blue rock with coppery metallic inclusions, giving it a slightly sparkly finish.

The other blue dial is even more sparkly, but it’s made of glass instead of natural stone. Aventurine is essentially glass that’s been mixed with tiny metallic flakes, giving it a speckled, starry effect.

Key Facts and Price

Louis Erard Excellence Régulateur Stones
Ref. 85237AA32 (Aventurine)
Ref. 85237AA35 (Lapis-Lazuli)
Ref. 85237AA39 (Malachite)

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.25 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Sellita SW266-1
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Calf leather with pin buckle

Limited edition: 99 pieces each
Availability: Direct from Louis Erard and its retailers
Price: 2,900 Swiss francs before taxes

For more information, visit louiserard.com.