Just as Watches & Wonders 2025 comes to a close, Patek Philippe is opening the doors of its annual showcase of Rare Handcrafts at its historical home base along the Geneva waterfront. Now open for a period of three weeks rather than two as was the case for the 2024 exhibition, the exhibition features dozens of Dome Clocks, wristwatches, and pocket watches embellished with miniature enamel painting, cloisonné, marquetry, hand engraving, and other artistic forms of decoration.

The view from the salon with the historic Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues on the left hidden by trees

In addition to the usual nature-inspired themes, this year’s collection plays to nostalgia, including both rose-coloured memories of the past and antiquarian visions of the future.

Visiting the Rare Handcrafts exhibit is enjoyable because intellectually it’s a level playing field; it’s mostly the same clocks and watches with the same specs and movements dressed up in different ways. This fact makes it easier to pay attention to one’s own heart, and to get drawn into the creations on an emotional level.

Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50R-020 “Regent Street”

Clocks

While the selection of clocks is naturally centered around the brand’s iconic Dome Clocks, Patek is also bringing back desk clocks with a new version of the ref. 27001M which sold for more than US$10 million at Only Watch in 2021.

For the corporate titan who has everything, the million-franc desk clock ref. 27000M is embellished with exterior panels decorated with green flinqué enamel – layers of translucent grand feu enamel over a guilloche base.

Desk clock ref. 27000M

Desk clock ref. 27000M dial detail.

Desk clock ref. 27000M

The cal. 86‑135 PEND S IRM Q SE movement was also on display for the first time, showing off acres of perlage and the calendar works under the dial. The movement features a contains a constant force mechanism that enables it to maintain its rate to within +/- 1 second per day, which is especially impressive considering its 31-day power reserve.

The cal. 86‑135 PEND S IRM Q SE

Cal. 86‑135 PEND S IRM Q SE

Turning now to Dome Clocks, the stand out piece for me was the Dome Clock ref. 20171M-001 “Nautilus”, which depicts the famously implausible deep sea diving scene from Jules Verne’s Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. This was one of my favourite stories as a child, and it was great to see it brought to life in 41 vivid layers of translucent and opaque enamel. (And those in the know will note that Thierry Stern’s yacht is also the Nautilus.)

Dome Clock ref. 20171M-001 “Nautilus”

While the eye naturally gravitates to the divers and the giant squid, up close the detail of the coral reef is actually the most impressive part of the composition. Also worth noting is that the cloistered interior of the Nautilus is depicted in gloomy monochrome, while the real world outside is depicted in vibrant colour, symbolising Captain Nemo’s disconnection from reality.

Dome Clock ref. 20171M-001 “Nautilus”

Dome Clock ref. 20171M-001 “Nautilus”

Notice the detail on the coral reef.

Next up is the Dome Clock ref. 20191M-001 “Skiing in Days Gone By”, which is made using similar cloisonné enamel techniques but depicts a variety of vintage travel posters of posh Swiss skiing destinations like Gstaad, Zermatt, and St. Moritz. Notably, the centre of the dial is made of leather, in an homage to the leather ski bindings of times past. 

Dome Clock ref. 20191M-001 “Skiing in days gone by”

Dome Clock ref. 20191M-001 “Skiing in days gone by”

Dome Clock ref. 20191M-001 “Skiing in days gone by”

Dome Clock ref. 20191M-001 “Skiing in days gone by”

Dome Clock ref. 20191M-001 “Skiing in days gone by” – notice the leather dial.

The Dome Clock ref. 20191M-001 “Skiing in days gone by” by is charming and well-made.

Strictly from the standpoint of craftsmanship, it’s hard not to be impressed by the Dome Clock ref. 21000M-001 “Geneva Harbour” which depicts this iconic waterfront with 1,991 veneer parts and 200 inlays. Despite its monochromatic appearance, there is a wide spectrum of colours, thanks to the use of 41 different species of wood in the composition.

Dome Clock ref. 21000M-001 “Geneva harbor”

Dome Clock ref. 21000M-001 “Geneva harbor”

Dome Clock ref. 21000M-001 “Geneva harbor”

Dome Clock ref. 21000M-001 “Geneva harbor” marquetry detail.

Dome Clock ref. 21000M-001 “Geneva harbor” marquetry detail.

Despite the incredible diversity of style and technique, all Dome Clocks are fundamentally identical in construction and movement; all are powered by the cal. 17’’’ PEND, which is a large 2.5 Hz pocket watch movement that is automatically rewound with an electric motor powered by a battery.

Wristwatches

Compared to last year’s exhibit, a greater proportion of the most appealing pieces seem to be wristwatches rather than pocket watches.

First up is a set of three views of “London of Yesteryear” rendered in monochromatic enamel. The Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50R-018 “Tower Bridge” is probably my favourite, but I do have a soft spot for London’s famous shopping street so the ref. 5738/50R-020 “Regent Street” speaks to me as well.

Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50R-018 “Tower Bridge”

Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50R-018 “Tower Bridge”

Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50R-020 “Regent Street”

Rounding out the trilogy is the Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50R-019 “Westminster Bridge”, which features a comparatively cliche view of the Palace of Westminster and the Elizabeth Tower, aka “Big Ben.”

Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50R-019 “Westminster Bridge”

In stark contrast to pleasing palette of ‘London of Yesteryear,’ and seemingly at odds with most of the rest of the collection, is the Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50g-033 “Horological gear trains”, which features a kind of x-ray of the inside of the watch, complete with bright red jewels.

Personally I found the black and red colour combination quite jarring, but it is nonetheless an interesting way to bridge the concepts of rare handcrafts and the mechanical perfection for which Patek is known.

Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50g-033 Horological gear trains

Our tour through the collection concludes with the Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50G-029 “Bald Eagle”, which features a spectacular rendering of a fearsome bald eagle in wood marquetry. The detail is spectacular, rendered with 33 species of wood and 148 individual veneer pieces. Perhaps it’s the American in me, or because I live in a region where I see these magnificent predators quite frequently, but this is one of the pieces I’ve thought about most since leaving the exhibition.

Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50G-029 “Bald Eagle”

Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50G-029 “Bald Eagle”

Turning to the Calatrava collection, and a different source of inspiration altogether, we have the Calatrava ref. 5177G-052 “Red Wines”, which features an intricate engraving on the inside of the crystal. I don’t recall seeing a watch crystal executed this way before, and the effect is striking, especially against the red guilloche dial (which is also available in white or rose).

Calatrava ref. 5177G-052 “Red Wines”

The Calatrava ref. 5177G-051 “Bordeaux” and ref. 5177G-050 “Burgundy” keep the oenophile theme going, rendering the iconic chateaus and estates of these regions in dozens of layers of translucent enamel. Both watches are powered by the micro-rotor cal. 240 and are limited editions of 10 watches each.

Calatrava ref. 5177G-051 “Bordeaux”

Calatrava ref. 5177G-050 “Burgundy”

Calatrava ref. 5177G-050 “Burgundy”

Even though it’s only April, it’s not too soon to start dreaming of summer in Provence, and the Calatrava ref. 5089G-106 “Vines and village of Gordes” and ref. 5077/100R-053 “Lavender and dry-stone huts” help do just that. The colours used to render the lavender fields and the tiny bunches of grapes are satisfyingly vivid and bring the composition to life.

Calatrava ref. 5089G-106 “Vines and village of Gordes”

Calatrava ref. 5089G-106 “Vines and village of Gordes”

Calatrava ref. 5077/100R-053 “Lavender and dry-stone huts”

Calatrava ref. 5077/100R-053 “Lavender and dry-stone huts”

Arguably saving the best for last, we have the Calatrava ref. 5086G-001 “From Earth to the moon” and ref. 5086G-010 “The adventures of Captain Hatteras” which use cloisonné enamel to depict scenes from their namesake novels by Jules Verne.

Calatrava ref. 5086G-001 “From Earth to the moon”

Calatrava ref. 5086G-001 “From Earth to the moon”

The compositions are dynamic and the colours are vibrant, but these watches have a little extra appeal thanks to the decorative screws in the bezel, which help carry the steampunk aesthetic from the dial to the case. It’s unusual for Patek Philippe to use bezel screws, which are more commonly associated with its rival in Le Brassus, but they work perfectly with the Jules Verne theme.

Calatrava ref. 5086G-010 “The adventures of Captain Hatteras”

Calatrava ref. 5086G-010 “The adventures of Captain Hatteras”

Pocket watches

This year’s assortment of pocket watches felt lighter than usual, despite some standouts like the Pocket Watch ref. 992/183G-001 “Provence”, which depicts the region’s iconic lavender fields and the honeybees that pollinate them. The dial is decorated with a radial guilloche pattern and enamelled lavender whorls.

Pocket Watch ref. 992/183G-001 “Provence”

The case back is similarly decorated, with the addition of honeybees in cloisonné enamel. But the real treasure of this watch is its stand, which contains more levender whorls and an 18k gold hook hand engraved in the form of another honeybee. 

Pocket Watch ref. 992/183G-001 “Provence”

The hand-engraved honeybee of the Pocket Watch ref. 992/183G-001 “Provence”.

Finally, the Pocket Watch ref. 984/101J-001 “Eagle and Wolf” is unique piece that contains two enamel paintings, one on each side, inspired by the work of Edward Julius Detmold and his twin brother Charles Maurice, who specialised in naturalistic illustrations.

Pocket Watch ref. 984/101J-001 “Eagle and Wolf”

These miniature paintings required at least 7 base colours and as many blends to bring these images to life.

Pocket Watch ref. 984/101J-001 “Eagle and Wolf”

Please enjoy additional photos from the exhibition:

Calatrava ref. 5077/100R-071 “White Swan”

Calatrava ref. 5077/100G-061 “Black Swan”

Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/150G-001

Dome Clock ref. 20182M-001 “Mongolia”

Dome Clock ref. 20182M-001 “Mongolia”

Pocket Watch ref. 992/138G-001 “Zhangjiajie National Forest Park”

Pocket Watch ref. 992/138G-001 “Zhangjiajie National Forest Park”

Pocket Watch ref. 992/138G-001 “Zhangjiajie National Forest Park”

Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50J-011 “Yellow-Crested Cockatoo” by Anita Porchet’s workshop

The discreet “AP” signature of the Anita Porchet workshop

Rare Handcrafts 2025 is open daily to the public from April 5 to 26, except on Sundays.

Patek Philippe Salons
Rue du Rhône 41
1204 Genève
Switzerland

Admission is free but registration is required on Patek.com.

By some measures, Watches & Wonders 2025 was the biggest ever. Visitors rose 12% on the previous year to 55,000, and more inconveniently, the hotel room-nights were up 17% to 43,000, perhaps explaining why accommodation gets more expensive every year (but fortunately still far from the extortion of Basel).

But I am certain by other measures Watches & Wonders (W&W) was a down year. Orders by retailers for new watches are surely lower than a year before. There was an undercurrent of concern throughout the fair, even before American tariffs were announced halfway through. But as is often the case, most executives acknowledge a slowdown but predict their brand will outperform because it is better.

The best of the Land-Dweller variants, the 40 mm in platinum

Big and small brands

One of the most interesting developments this year is the degree of novelty at big brands compared to independent watchmakers. In recent history indies tended to have the more notable creations – the F.P. Journe FFC from two years ago is one of the all-time greats – but this year the opposite happened.

The two best launches during W&W season came from big brands (or at least an establishment brand owned by a big group): the Rolex Land-Dweller and the Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication. The Land-Dweller incorporates an extraordinary number of innovations in its cal. 7135, while the Solaria is the most complicated wristwatch ever made, but importantly, it gained the title with a cleverly constructed movement that keeps it compact as such things go.

At 45 mm by 14.99 mm high, the Solaria is perhaps the most wearable “ultra” grand complication

In contrast, independent watchmaking was all about the flavour of the day, which is a time-only watch with a highly decorated movement, usually without a dial and instead the mechanics exposed on the face. Even Zenith joined the party with the G.F.J., a time-only wristwatch equipped with a reconstructed cal. 135 observatory chronometer movement.

The movement inside the Zenith G.F.J. is essentially a replica of the cal. 135, with a few improvements

While in the past indie watchmakers often did their own thing, their recognition of current tastes has bestowed upon them great success. The demand enjoyed by such independent watchmakers is impressive, with many enthusiasts eager to place deposits for deliveries several years down the road – in the hope that the watchmaker is going to be the next Francois-Paul Journe.

Importantly, however, there were a handful of newcomers that stood out in this space, including Dann Phimphrachanh, a candidate for the AHCI who was a colleague of Raul Pages while they were both at Parmigiani. Though his work is still in three-hand format, it is high quality and has potential.

The Dann Phimphrachanh Secondes Vive with a remontoir

Watches…

Undoubtedly the biggest debut of 2025 in terms of horological significance, the Rolex Land-Dweller matters not because of the bracelet or the design, but the cal. 7135 inside (which does not have a natural escapement). All you need to know about why it is game changing can be found in our review of the watch, and the movement. The Land-Dweller in Rolesor is an easy buy recommendation for me, though the platinum is ideal but requires a big stretch of the budget.

Less innovative but entirely reflective of its maker is the Lange Minute Repeater Perpetual. Essentially a mash-up of the Richard Lange repeater and Langematik Perpetual, the Minute Repeater Perpetual is executed in the exceptional quality that characterises Lange watches.

The black enamel dial is champleve and made in house

It doesn’t really bring anything new to be table, and when I first saw the watch in photos I feared it might be boring, but it is absolutely gorgeous and feels like a million dollars on the wrist. In fact, it comes close to that number with its €715,000 retail price. The price can’t be justified in any way except by benchmarking it against the equivalent Patek Philippe, which is a little over €778,000.

Fortunately Lange also released something for fans on a smaller budget with the 1815 34 mm, a no-frills watch that nonetheless contains a new calibre, the L152.1.

The L122.2 movement is familiar, as the base calibre is essentially identical to that in the earlier Richard Lange repeater, but here it’s finished with frosting that’s typically reserved for limited editions

At Patek Philippe, it was largely variations on existing models – which means the grandest of haute horlogerie names at W&W will be launching something significant later in the year.

Even though it’s only a cosmetic upgrade, the latest version of its split-seconds chronograph, the ref. 5370R, is just gorgeous with a brown-and-cream enamel dial. I don’t usually like brown dials but the ref. 5370R is very, very pretty and the best version of the model to date.

The ref. 5370R is only a facelift but it is outstanding

The most interesting Patek Philippe in technical terms was the Calatrave 8-Day Power Reserve ref. 5328G with an instantaneous day and date display. Though less interesting on the front, the ref. 5328G is powered by the all-new cal. 31‑505 8J PS IRM CI J that’s the brand’s first new extended power reserve movement in a long time.

Clearly inspired by a vintage calibre, the movement is one of Patek Philippe’s best looking recent constructions. I would love to see this calibre in a design that echoes the movement styling.

The cal. 31‑505 8J PS IRM CI J is almost pocket watch-like

And then worth mentioning just because it is extremely impressive and even more expensive is the Grand Complication ref. 27000M desk clock. Modelled on the one-off clock made for Only Watch 2021, the ref. 27000M is sterling silver with flinque enamel panels, and includes instantaneous perpetual calendar, while the price tag is CHF1 million.

Perhaps the ultimate desk accessory

On the topic of clocks, Chanel once again wowed with a unique desk clock, the Diamonds Astroclock. It’s essentially a deluxe version of the Astroclock from two years ago; instead of an all-black lion, this has a lion set with over 5,000 diamonds, with the entire clock sporting over 123 carats of diamonds. The Patek Philippe ref. 27000M is relatively affordable in comparison, with the Diamonds Astroclock priced at about €2 million.

The Astroclock with a diamond-set lion. Image – Chanel

A high-profile big brand that enjoyed a high-profile launch was Cartier with its Privé Tank à Guichets. While not particularly creative since it’s a remake of a vintage model, the Tank à Guichets is executed well, especially with the case finishing.

Unlike the earlier reissue from some two decades ago, the new model features an in-house movement with a solidly constructed jumping hours mechanism, unfortunately with the same Etachron regulator found in most Cartier calibres. Fortunately the movement is concealed behind a display back. Like much else launched recently, the Tank à Guichets is pricey, despite all of its qualities, with the platinum version costing €50,000, with gold a little less and the “oblique” edition a little more.

More interestingly, Cartier finally revealed publicly what it has quietly been communicating to clients for some months. Its “New Special Order” programme for customised watches, better known as NSO, is being revamped to focus more on complicated watches and ready-made custom watches rather than made-to-order creations. This is not surprising given that Louis Ferla, the brand’s recent appointed chief executive, took a similar approach to Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers programme when he helmed the brand.

The Tank à Guichets “oblique” (left), and in yellow gold

At the affordable end of the price spectrum, Grand Seiko stood out with the Spring Drive U.F.A., short for “Ultra Fine Accuracy”, the most advanced Spring Drive movement to date but still accessibly priced.

Equipped with the new 9RB2 movement, the U.F.A. runs to within 20 seconds a year. But more than just accuracy, the watch is wearable and practical, especially with its new micro-adjust clasp. The design is classic Grand Seiko, and it succeeds at what it wants to be, an excellent everyday watch.

The 9RB2 was also designed to be admired through a display back

And wonders

The true wonder of the fair was the Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication. With 41 functions it’s the most complicated wristwatch ever made, and it also incorporates a world-first complication in the form of a celestial body timer. But more than the complication count, the Solaria stands out for the surprisingly compact case. The watch is large in absolute terms, but petite for a grand complication.

One of the many sub-dials on the Solaria, this one dedicated to the Sun

And that is thanks to the genius of the watch, which lies in the movement construction. The inventor of the watch devised a more concise and adaptable calibre, and threw in several ingenious features like an ultra-light tourbillon with a silicon balance, all of which resulted in the wearable dimensions.

The reverse of the Solaria

A British turnaround

The most interesting piece of news relating to the watch business was Bill Ackman taking control of Bremont. Attending W&W for the first time, the American activist investor first invested in the brand in 2023, recruiting Davide Cerrato to be chief executive, but recently cleaned up the brand’s capital structure, took majority control, and became the brand’s non-executive chairman (all of which he announced on social media platform X).

Mr Ackman has gradually filled the executive ranks of Bremont, including with highly qualified individuals from his Pershing Square hedge fund, but the brand will probably need a few more incentivised industry insiders at the top, replicating the approach Georges Kern employed when he first took over Breitling.

A departure from the typical Bremont military-aviation style, the Terra Nova Jumping Hour is surprising and affordable

The watch industry is littered with the wreckage of wealthy investors who had a go at building or turning around a brand. Even luxury industry titans have failed in the past, like LVMH with Ebel and Kering with Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin.

So naturally I made fun of Bremont’s revamp last year with new models and a new logo. Ordinarily I would have been sceptical but after listening to Mr Ackman explain his approach, Bremont probably has a better chance than most. He certainly has a track record, having earned a near-US$10 billion fortune as an activist investor in a diverse range of industries. And fortunately for the brand, he is himself a celebrity ambassador for the brand, with over 1.7 million followers on X, which will certainly be useful in promoting Bremont watches. It will certainly be interesting to see where this goes.

The Bremont booth at W&W, complete with the cockpit and nose of a 1940s Gloster Meteor, the first jet fighter of the Royal Air Force. Image – Watches & Wonders

Indies outside

Although the halls of W&W included a great number of independent brands, most the preeminent indies were showing outside the fair. The most preeminent of all is of course F.P. Journe. Just a few years ago a visit to the manufacture in downtown Geneva was a relaxed affair in a roomy lobby, but the number of visitors to F.P. Journe has increased correspondingly with the rise in value of its watches.

That degree of success has allowed Francois-Paul Journe to expand his manufacture, an achievement that is encapsulated by the new Chronomètre Furtif. The case and bracelet are in ultra-hard tungsten carbide, while the dial is laser-engraved grand feu enamel – and everything is made in-house at the F.P. Journe dial and case-making facility in Geneva.

The Chronomètre Furtif is most impressive as an example of case and bracelet fabrication, while also being ironically low key despite the fame of its maker. But its maker’s success has also allowed the brand to price according to market, the watch costs CHF85,000.

A “furtive” watch with a black-on-black dial legible only to the wearer

His success has also allowed Francois-Paul Journe to do crazy things for an independent watchmaker, like the Tourbillon Souverain Joaillerie Rubis, a unique version of the Tourbillon Vertical. This unique piece is set with some 25 carats of baguette-cut rubies, which in turn required over 80 carats of rubies to be cut down to size in order to fit the case.

With that degree of wastage for the gemstones, the ruby tourbillon is priced equivalent to well over two Patek Philippe desk clocks, but already has several eager clients seeking Mr Journe’s blessing to buy it.

The sub-dials are a single slice of “couer de rubis”

While the established independents like F.P. Journe and MB&F exhibited their wares in their own premises, the smaller makers and newcomers were clustered in Masters of Horology, focused on AHCI members and candidates, as well as Time to Watches, which was a mix of micro brands and indies at various price points.

One of the most interesting newcomers at Masters of Horology was Dann Phimphrachanh, a Portuguese watchmaker of Laotian origin who worked at several brands in the past, including Parmigiani and Greubel Forsey, primarily in after-sales service. Mr Phimphrachanh is now a candidate to join the AHCI with his Secondes Vive, a manual-wind wristwatch with a one-second remontoir visible on the dial. While firmly in the crowded segment of time only and highly finished, the Secondes Vive shows off Mr Phimphrachanh’s skill and promise.

The movement of the Seconds Vive that is all finished by hand naturally

Over at Time to Watches, the scene was more mixed. The exhibitors ranged from familiar independent watchmakers like Antoine Preziuso and established micro-brands like Fears to brands I have never heard of and wonder if I will see again in 2026.

Many of the exhibitors at Time to Watches were fresh entrants to the industry, and amongst the most intriguing in this category was Fam al Hut, a brand based in the Chinese metropolis of Chongqing. Curiously named after a constellation in Arabic, the brand’s inaugural wristwatch is the Bi-Axis Tourbillon.

Not only does it feature a tourbillon with twin axes, it also has a bi-retrograde display and jumping hours – all for just US$32,000. The extremely good price-performance ratio reflects the immense manufacturing prowess in China, which has always been there, but is now elevated by stronger design and branding. With initial deliveries slated for 2027, it is difficult to predict where the brand will go, but it is one that might be worth keeping an eye on.

The pill-shaped Bi-Axis Tourbillon

Wisdom with age

Perhaps the greatest piece of wisdom I received during W&W 2025 was from Konstantin Chaykin, the Russian independent watchmaker who is certainly one of the living greats. As I was walking back from dinner with him, I asked who he thought was the greatest watchmaker.

The movement of the Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing, the slimmest mechanical watch today

He replied, “When you ask a young poet who is the greatest poet, he will say himself. You ask a middle-aged poet, and he will name himself and Pushkin. But an old poet will say there is only Pushkin.”

And Konstantin’s take on the greatest watchmaker was of course “only Abraham-Louis Breguet”.

Correction April 10, 2025: The Gloster Meteor was the first-ever jet fighter of the Royal Air Force, and not the first-ever jet fighter.