Just ahead of the public unveiling on April 13, Patek Philippe debuted 82-strong Rare Handcrafts 2024 collection at its Geneva salon during Watches & Wonders. Made up of Dome Clocks, pocket watches, and wristwatches, it is the largest such release in the brand’s history.

Unlike the most recent Rare Handcrafts collection that was country-specific, the 2024 collection continues with the typical diversity of the annual line-up with motifs as varied as the techniques used to render them. While natural themes figure prominently, less traditional themes like classic American automobiles and surfers, like the Calatrava ref. 5089G-129 “Morning on the Beach” (pictured above), are explored as well.

While only a subset of the 82-piece collection is on display at the Patek Philippe Salon – and open to the public till April 27 – a few pieces stand out from the rest.

Calatrava ref. 5089G-148 “American Beauties”, one of several depicting 1950s American cars

Dome Clocks

One of the themes of the 2024 collection is “Gardens of the World,” and among the most striking is the Dome Clock ref. 20151M-001 English Garden. Decorated with cloisonné enamel that contains nearly 50 m of gold wire, the English Garden offers a charming composition featuring a stately home in the country.

Dome Clock ref. 20151M-001 English Garden

Dome Clock ref. 20151M-001 English Garden

Patek Philippe also drew inspiration from across the pond, with American themes featuring prominently. Among this subset of the collection, the Dome Clock ref. 20155M-001 American Trains appeals to nostalgia for the railroads of mid 20th century New York.

Dome Clock ref. 20155M-001 American Trains

The American Trains clock features a simple, no-nonsense dial in keeping with precision railroad clocks and, like all Patek Philippe dome clocks, is powered by a mechanical movement that is wound with an electric motor.

Dome Clock ref. 20155M-001 American Trains

Outstanding details of the this particular clock include the gold-leaf treatment of the lights and windows, and the delicate shading of light and shadow against the locomotives.

Dome Clock ref. 20157M-001 The Muses

Pocket watches

Continuing with the American themes, the Pocket Watch ref. 995/144J-001 Bear and Salmon offers a perfect subject matter for a natural material like wood.

Executed in wood marquetry, the bear’s fur and the striking orange hues of the salmon are rendered with 315 pieces of veneer and 75 inlays. The shading is aided by the use of 38 different species of wood. Up close, the various textures and vibrant colours of the orange inlays are captivating. 

Pocket Watch ref. 995/144J-001 Bear and Salmon

Also on-hand to provide a live demonstration of wood marquetry techniques was Jérôme Boutteçon, an independent marquetry artisan whose work can be found across a variety of brands.

The saw is an old school apparatus; the only part of it that uses electricity is the built-in lamp. Otherwise, all motivating force comes from the craftsman’s foot, which moves the saw up and down against the spring tension of laminated wood blades at the top of the machine.

Jérôme Boutteçon showing off his craft

The exhibition also featured an enameller demonstrating the process of miniature enamel painting

Another striking pocket watch is the Pocket Watch ref. 992/184G-001 Lake Geneva in Winter. With a miniature enamel painting on top of a hand-engraved surface, the watch depicts the shores of the lake, and the Lavaux vineyard terraces, with the Alps rising dramatically in the background.

Pocket Watch ref. 992/184G-001 Lake Geneva in Winter

Pocket Watch ref. 992/184G-001 Lake Geneva in Winter

Pocket watch ref. 992/159J-001 “Rialto Bridge”

Pocket watch ref. 992/182G-001 Samurai

Pocket watch ref. 992/192G-001 Chinese junks

Wristwatches

As is convention, the wristwatches in this year’s Rare Handcrafts span almost the entirety of Patek Philippe’s catalogue, from Calatrava to Golden Ellipse, excepting only the sports watches.

Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50G-035 Keukenhof

While I expected the star of the show to be the vibrant Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50G-035 Keukenhof, which depicts the famous flower gardens near Amsterdam, I found the subtle Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50G-027 Trees in the Mist to be the standout within the Golden Ellipse collection.

Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50G-027 Trees in the Mist

With a limited palette of just nine colours of enamel in various degrees of translucency, Trees in the Mist is far from the most complex, but the overall effect really works. Clouds, fog, and mist are notoriously difficult for artists to render, which is perhaps why the Trees in the Mist is so striking, with a milky depth that almost resembles mother of pearl.

Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50G-027 Trees in the Mist

Another standout Golden Ellipse from the Gardens of the World sub-collection is a piece that depicts a moonlit Moorish-style garden.

Calling to mind palatial gardens like those found at the Alcázar of Seville and the Alhambra in Granada, the Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50G-036 Moorish Gardens is far more complex than its siblings. The watch features 37 colours of opaque and translucent enamel bordered by 76 cm of gold wire, with an intriguing composition that focuses attention on the gorgeously rendered columns and archways.

Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50G-036 Moorish Garden

The Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50G-037 Gardens of Versailles depcits the famous French gardens in 26 colours of cloisonné enamel, bordered by 76 cm of gold wire.

Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50G-037 Gardens of Versailles

Though many of the motifs were new, the collection also included the time-honoured Lake Geneva scenes that have been a staple of Rare Handcrafts for decades. Also part of the Golden Ellipse collection were three pieces with enamel depicting historical views of Geneva, including the quintessential sailboat on the water.

Golden Ellipse 5738/50R-014 Barques

Golden Ellipse 5738/50R-014 Jet d’Eau

Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50R-015 Pont des Bergues

The collection also features an entire sub-collection of gem-set Calatravas that depict the constellations, such as the Calatrava ref. 5077/100G-063 Taurus.

The American themes continued in wristwatches as well, including two versions of the Calatrava ref. 5089G that feature classic American automobiles, echoing a related theme found in last year’s Rare Handcrafts range. While the craftsmanship is top-tier, the colour palette and choice of subject matter feels jarring.

Calatrava ref. 5089G-149 “American Beauties”

Calatrava ref. 5089G-145 “Billiards”

Of course, no Patek Rare Handcrafts collection is complete without complications, and Patek Philippe has delivered with new references of existing models that use some of the brand’s most outstanding movements.

World Time Minute Repeater ref. 5531R-016 “Lake Thun”

The first is a new version of the World Time Minute Repeater. Similar to the preceding ref. 5531R-012, the new ref. 5531R-016 features a similar subject matter but ditches the sailboat in favour of a more symmetrical composition that emphasises the natural elements of Lake Thun.

The second is the Minute Repeater ref. 5278/50R-001 that depicts a guitarist in wood marquetry. Like the Bear and Salmon pocket watch, the choice of medium is well-suited to the subject matter, with the wood of the guitar and the skin tones of the guitarist rendered beautifully.

Minute Repeater ref. 5278/50R-001 “Guitarist” in wood marquetry

Minute Repeater ref. 5538G-019

The collection of wristwatches is capped by the Minute Repeater ref. 5538G-019 which depicts egrets and water lillies and features one of the brand’s most legendary movements in current production, the R TO 27 that combines a tourbillon and minute repeater.

Rare Handcrafts 2024 is open daily to the public from April 13 to 27, except on Sundays.

Patek Philippe Salons
Rue du Rhône 41
1204 Genève
Switzerland

Admission is free but registration is required on Patek.com.