IWC’s sports watch with an integrated bracelet, the Ingenieur Automatic 40, now gets a dial in dark blue, arguably the quintessential dial colour for such watches. Modelled on the Ingenieur SL designed by Gérald Genta’s in the 1970s, the modern day Ingenieur was released last year in several dial colours, including black and silver.

The new model with a blue dial retains the exact same design, including a bezel secured by five functional screws, an integrated H-link bracelet, and a grid-patterned dial.

Initial thoughts

Twenty-twenty four marks the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko’s 9R Spring Drive movement platform, an occasion the brand has chosen to mark with a range of anniversary editions including the Grand Seiko Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary SBGC275. A large, richly detailed watch with a captivating dial, the SBGC275 is robust, interesting, and capable of nearly anything, short of fitting under a short cuff.

Initial thoughts

At first glance, the SBGC275 looks like just a Spring Drive chronograph with a red dial. But a closer look reveals a highly nuanced colour that changes from red to orange depending on the angle – the result of a proprietary dial coating technique.

At 44.5 mm in diameter and nearly 17 mm thick, the SBGC275 is unapologetically big and bold. That said, the watch feels smaller than it is thanks to the use of titanium for the case and bracelet, and the unusually wide 23 mm lug width helps reduce the visual size. This latter dimension may limit the options for aftermarket straps, but since most owners will likely stick with the bracelet, this concern is largely academic.

The watch is powered by an upgraded version of the familiar cal. 9R86 Spring Drive chronograph GMT movement, which made its debut in 2007. But eagle-eyed movement geeks will notice the SBGC275 is equipped with the fine-tuned cal. 9R96 first seen in 2017, which was also used in the Nissan GT-R 50th Anniversary edition.

In many ways, the SBGC275 captures Grand Seiko’s strengths and weaknesses. The brand executes well – the quality of build is high – while possessing both a strong competency in dial-making and an affinity for producing anniversary editions.

Unsurprisingly Grand Seiko has produced numerous limited editions over the past few years, with many, like the SBGC275, distinguished from regular production models primarily by the special dial treatment. So as good as the SBGC275 is, it feels somewhat formulaic.

Priced at US$13,400, the SBGC275 offers a reasonable value given its striking looks, unique technical competency, and fit and finish. Spring Drive watches are a category unto themselves, making it difficult to define a competitive set, but compared to most other large chronographs from the likes of Hublot and Zenith, the SBGC275 offers an elevated level of quality and precision for similar money.

A very special dial

The effect is made possible by a patented dial coating process that involves several layers of nanoscale film to create a highly engaging look that is constantly changing. The colour-changing effect was the goal from the beginning, taking inspiration from the ephemeral way the morning sun hits the Hotaka mountains near the manufacture.

On the wrist, the dial is clear, vibrant, and engaging, with a mix of contrasting finishes and snailing on the chronograph registers. The hands and dial markers are faceted and generously lumed, including the GMT hand. Even the 24 hour scale underneath the sapphire crystal bezel is lumed, glowing in a shade of blue that contrasts nicely with the green lume used for the hands and dial.

More than just a pretty face

But the dial is not the only thing that distinguishes the SBGC275 from its mainstream stablemates. The watch is powered by the cal. 9R96 which is more finely adjusted than the standard cal. 9R86 found in similar watches like the SBGC253.

Specifically, the upgraded movement is rated to +/- 10 seconds per month compared to the cal. 9R86’s rating of +/- 15 seconds per month. On paper, this is a substantial upgrade, but anecdotal evidence suggests the standard version runs more accurately than its stated rating, meaning it may be hard to tell the difference in real-world use.

The movement features a GMT function in addition to a column wheel chronograph with vertical clutch, and offers a power reserve of 72 hours.

Angular lines

Grand Seiko’s distinctive “grammar of design” has long favoured angular forms and contrasting surface finishes over sensual curves, and the SBGC275 is emblematic of this formula, offering a veritable cornucopia of faceted edges. Though the dial and bezel are round, the case is nearly rectangular, evoking the brands quirky watches from the 1960s and 1970s.

But my favourite design element on the case is actually the set of mushroom-style chronograph pushers, which are finely detailed. The pusher tubes, for example, are brushed and beveled, and the faces of the pushers are decorated with concentric circles. The pushers not only look good, but they feel good in operation as well.

The matching bracelet helps ensure a comfortable fit, thanks to a toolless micro-adjustment mechanism integrated into the clasp. While this system is somewhat bulky compared to other solutions on the market, it’s hardly noticeable on the wrist because the watch itself has so much presence.

That said, if there’s one area that could be improved, it is the bracelet, which is not as nicely executed as the case, dial, and movement. For example, the plugged ends of the holes in each link are clearly visible, whereas rivals like Rolex and Omega fully conceal these elements. This is a weakness common across the Grand Seiko catalogue, although insiders have revealed that Grand Seiko is working on improving it.

Concluding thoughts

While destined to be a niche product due to its imposing size and 700-piece limitation, the SBGC275 is nonetheless an exciting and visually dynamic watch that offers a great deal of technical interest thanks to its finely adjusted Spring Drive movement.

Key facts and price

Grand Seiko Sport Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition
Ref. SBGC275

Diameter: 44.5 mm
Height: 16.8 mm
Material: “High-intensity titanium”
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: 9R96
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT function, power reserve indicator, and chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: NA (Spring Drive)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Titanium bracelet

Limited edition: 700 pieces
Availability: Now at Grand Seiko boutiques and retailers
Price: US$13,400; or 18,000 Singapore dollars

For more, visit grand-seiko.com

Omega revived the CK 2998-inspired Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” earlier in the year. More than just another remake, I am convinced the FOiS may just be the perfect Speedmaster, at least for me.

The second-generation “First Omega in Space” (FOiS) sports details that will appeal to enthusiasts, including a blue-grey “soleil” dial and domed sapphire crystal that completes the vintage-inspired look. And it’s powered by the latest generation Moonwatch cal. 3861.

Initial thoughts

Despite being interested in watches since my sophomore year in high school, I can’t say that the Speedmaster was ever a go-to watch for me. I have had a couple of Speedies here and there, but the model was never the centre of my attention as a collector. I mostly felt the modern Speedmaster, in its many forms, is good, especially for the price point, but never perfect.

Based on that experience, I didn’t expect much of the FOiS, thinking it be yet another reissue, which is why I hesitated when I got the call from the Omega boutique in Seoul.

My opinion changed when I went to the boutique to try it on. I was surprised to see how appealing it looked on the wrist, especially compared to the first-generation FOiS that was too plain with a black dial that seemed flat.

Others seem to share my opinion. The critical response to the new FOiS has been mostly positive, other than the familiar debate over the faux-aged lume, which some find excessive but I personally don’t mind. In fact, I find the aged lume entirely appropriate for the vintage-inspired design.

The FOiS just works. Although it may look similar to the first-generation FOiS, and of course similar to the vintage CK 2998, the new FOiS is an entirely different watch that is arguably a perfect blend of old and new. It has a new dial, case, crystal and bracelet, plus the latest-generation cal. 3861 that’s a Co-Axial Master Chronometer.

Notably, at US$7,900, the FOiS is slightly less expensive than the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch with the same cal. 3861 movement, making the FOiS arguably the better buy.

The first-generation FOiS with its flat black dial

Blue-grey “soleil”

The new FOiS is a faithful reproduction of the CK2998, the second Speedmaster model after the CK 2915. Produced from 1959 to about 1962, the CK 2998 had many of the features synonymous with vintage Speedmasters, including the “dot over 90” aluminium bezel insert, almost all of which had been recreated in the FOiS.

Like the vintage original, the FOiS case is 39.7 mm in diameter and does without crown guards. It has “straight” lugs, instead of the “lyre” lugs found on subsequent Speedmaster iterations. In fact, the FOiS case is nearly identical to another of Omega’s recent remakes, the Speedmaster 321 “Ed White”.

“Dot over 90” on the aluminium bezel insert

The star of the show is the radially brushed, blue-grey dial that’s paired with a domed sapphire crystal for a vintage vibe. The dial is inspired by rare vintage Speedmaster models with blue-grey dials, which have been nicknamed “soleil” (which is French for “sun”) after the sun ray-brushed finish.

This dial makes the FOiS unique amongst modern Speedmaster models, which are mostly equipped with plain, black stepped dials, with a few exceptions like the Speedmaster Moonwatch with a white lacquered dial. The charm of the dial lies in its changing appearance that varies with the light. It can seem black in many environments, with the blue-grey finish only coming alive under direct lighting.

The dial can be a brighter blue-grey…

Or black under indirect lighting

The dial is easy to like, though the parchment lume is inevitably controversial. Given the dark shade of the lume, it feels like the watch is trying to look very old. But still I find it aesthetically appropriate, given that the timepiece is a vintage re-issue. Surprisingly, the colour of the lume also complements the grey-blue dial.

In fact, all of the colours are complementary: the blue-grey contrasts with the black bezel, while the faux-vintage lume blends in naturally with the dial.

Although the lume is pretend-vintage, the printed markings for the minutes, seconds, and sub-dials, are in bright white. Despite this, the dial doesn’t look busy despite the different colours.

The dial also incorporates enough vintage elements to please the enthusiast. The applied Omega logo at 12 o’clock is a nice touch, and the stepped dial construction, along with the sunken sub-dials, are thoughtful details. The dial construction also adds depth to the dial, in contrast the first-generation FOiS that felt flat.

The hands are all colour-matched according to function: the “alpha” hands for the time are polished, while the hands for the chronograph lacquered white

The importance of the domed sapphire crystal can’t be understated. The crystal mimics the aesthetics of the hesalite crystal on the vintage original, and helps create a genuinely vintage feel as a result.

If I could change anything about the new FOiS, it would probably be the case back. The design of the case back is faithful to that of the vintage CK 2998, with a double-stepped edge and an embossed seahorse logo.

While the closed case back completes the vintage feel of the watch, I would have liked to be able to see the cal. 3861, which is surprisingly well finished for this price point. Granted, the cal. 3861 is still an industrial movement, but in my view it’s dressed up to a degree that justifies a transparent case back.

The cal. 3861 on show in the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch

The FOiS is appropriately delivered with a vintage-inspired flat link bracelet, although various leather straps are an option. I recommend the bracelet. Though not fancy, the bracelet is sturdily constructed and wears comfortably on my 6.6″ wrist.

It has all the practicality of a modern bracelet, but still retains the correct vintage styling. The bracelet design is modelled on the 1960s bracelet of the CK 2998, but clearly modern in construction. The links are substantial and solid, while the clasp is chunky.

A slightly slimmer clasp would have suited the vintage styling better, but the size is partly functional; the micro-adjustment mechanism in the clasp that comes in handy.

Micro adjustment in the clasp

Concluding thoughts

The second-generation Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” is arguably the best vintage remake Omega has produced in the last decade.

The watch faithfully recreates the feel of the vintage “soleil” Speedmaster CK 2998, and the radially brushed blue-grey dial simply pops. But it’s not just about aesthetics: the cal. 3861 is a worthy update to the vintage Moonwatch calibre, although it’s a shame that the solid back hides the movement.

Key facts and price

Omega Speedmaster “First Omega in Space”
Ref. 310.30.40.50.06.001 (bracelet)
Ref. 310.32.40.50.06.001 (black leather strap)
Ref. 310.32.40.50.06.002 (brown leather strap)

Diameter: 39.7 mm
Height: 13.4 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 3861
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual wind
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet or leather strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Omega boutiques and retailers
Price: US$7,900 on steel bracelet; US$7,500 on strap

For more, visit omegawatches.com.