Conceived as an affordable sub-brand of MB&F, M.A.D. Editions has become a runaway success by making an MB&F-esque design accessible. Now the concept has been further refined with the M.A.D.1S, where the suffix stands for slimmer, Swiss, and single cylinder.

The case is thinner by almost 4 mm, and now contains a Swiss-made movement that indicates the time (approximately) on a single cylinder.

Initial thoughts

The original M.A.D.1 was a fun watch that was affordable but expensive, and extremely thick at almost 19 mm. The slimmed down version has sleeker proportions, and the same price tag, but offers comparatively better value.

The M.A.D.1S is priced at CHF2,900, just like the original version. Like the original, the M.A.D.1S is priced well for a watch with a little bit of the MB&F magic, but expensive for a watch of its build and movement. However, the M.A.D.1S is comparatively less expensive, and conversely offers a bit more value, because it has a slightly more upscale movement inside.

Mad but more wearable

Two versions of the M.A.D.1S are available, one with a blue dial and the other in purple. The blue is available to the public, while the purple is only for “Friends & Tribe”, namely associates of the brand and owners of MB&F watches. Both will be sold via an online raffle, as is convention for the M.A.D. watches.

Both editions are otherwise identical, with a case that’s substantially slimmer than the original M.A.D.1. While the original was almost 19 mm high, the M.A.D.1S is a more manageable, but still thick 15 mm.

It shares the same construction and design as its predecessor, with a steel case that has a sapphire crystal on the front and mineral glass around the curved flanks, all held together with adhesive.

Time continues to be indicated via the flank of the watch, but now on a single cylinder with both the hours and minutes that indicates an approximate, rather than exact, time. In contrast, the original had twin cylinders, one each for the hours and minutes, which resulted in a far thicker case and tragically short power reserve.

Besides the time display, another reason for the thinner case is the La Joux-Perret G101. Conceived as a substitute for the ETA 2824 or Sellita SW200, the G101 is a no-frills workhorse with a useful 68-hour power reserve.

It is also relatively low cost, making the G101 a popular choice for micro-brands. Though made in Switzerland by La Joux-Perret, the G101 is based on the construction of a Miyota calibre, which is made by La Joux-Perret’s parent, Citizen of Japan.

Key Facts and Price

MB&F M.A.D.1S

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 15 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire on the front and mineral glass on the flanks
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: La Joux-Perret G101
Functions: Hours and minutes on single cylinder
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 68 hours

Strap: Leather strap with folding clasp

Limited edition: No but purple edition only for “Friends & Tribe”
Availability: Only from M.A.D. Editions raffle open from August 27 to September 2, 204
Price: CHF2,900 excluding taxes

For more, visit the M.A.D. 1 raffle page.

The second wristwatch Francois-Paul Journe ever made and the counterpart to the similar example in the brand’s own museum, the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité “15/93” was made by Mr Journe in 1993, by hand naturally. It will be offered by Phillips at its 1990s thematic sale in November (that includes the original Rolex Daytona “Rainbow”), accompanied by associated documents.

One of three examples his tourbillon prototype, the watch has all of the telltale signs of a hand-made watch. It also serves as the design template that would later shape the signature F.P. Journe Tourbillon.

One of the readily apparent details is the fact that the dial is actually the underside of the base plate. The actual dial, namely the guilloche register at three o’clock, is actually secured by screws on the base plate.

With an estimate of over CHF2 million, the 1993 F.P. Journe tourbillon be sold at Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999 that takes place on November 8, 2024 in Geneva at the Hotel President.

Continuing with its series of editions made for the Swiss Air Force’s aerobatic team, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Patrouille Suisse is a clean, no-frills watch based on IWC’s entry-level pilot’s watch.

A limited edition of 250 pieces, the Mark XX Patrouille Suisse is the fifth edition dedicated to the aerobatics team. This has two notable features that set it apart from the regular production Mark XX. First, the case is entirely in matte titanium instead of stainless steel. Secondly, the dial is sunburst-brushed slate grey rather than black or blue.

Initial thoughts

As one of IWC’s bestsellers, the Mark XX is a modern take on the historical IWC pilot’s watch. It’s relatively affordable and an easily wearable 40 mm. The standard Mark XX sticks to the standard template, so it isn’t that interesting.

The Patrouille Suisse edition, on the other hand, is different enough to be interesting, but not so much that it loses the recognisable styling. The lightweight, low-key titanium case is particularly fitting for a pilot’s watch, both in terms of visuals and feel.

And the grey dial adds a bit of nuance to an otherwise monochromatic look, though it could have been better without the date.

Priced at US$6,500, the Mark XX Patrouille Suisse doesn’t cost too much more than the standard model, which makes it a compelling alternative. Admittedly the cal. 32111 inside is one of IWC’s most economical movements, but it is acceptable for the price.

Shades of grey

Entirely in matte, sandblasted titanium, the case is 40 mm in diameter and 10.6 mm in thickness. It’s matched with a radially brushed grey dial with Arabic numerals and a red-tipped seconds hand.

The titanium back is engraved with the Patrouille Suisse emblem. Underneath is the cal. 32111, which is based on the entry-level movement produced by ValFleurier, the movement maker owned by Richemont, IWC’s parent. It beats at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz) and has five days of power reserve.

The strap is fitted with a quick release mechanism.

Key facts and price

IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Patrouille Suisse
Ref. IW328209

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 10.6 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 32111
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 120 hours (5 days)

Strap: A black textile strap with EasX-CHANGE system

Limited edition: 250 pieces
Availability: Now at IWC boutiques and retailers
Price: US$6,500

For more, visit iwc.com

Having already debuted a thoughtful reissue of a pocket watch for its centenary, Citizen is continuing with the commemorative editions with something more affordable: the Series 8 880 100th Anniversary. Featuring a second time zone function and integrated bracelet, the watch has a tone-tone finish of brushed steel and blue-coated steel, matched with a blue mother-of-pearl dial.

Initial thoughts

The Series 8 GMT is most notable for being a “true” GMT – with an independently adjustable hour hand – at an affordable price point. It retails for just under US$2,000, and most GMT watches in this price segment have an add-on GMT function of an adjustable 24-hour hand instead.

While the standard versions of the Series 8 GMT are in familiar GMT colours, including a blue and red “Pepsi” version, this anniversary edition is unusual with the blue case treatment and sky-blue mother-of-pearl dial. For someone who wants an affordable, functional dual time zone that looks different, this is a competitive proposition.

A true-blue GMT

The Series 8 GMT has a two-part case construction that allows for the unusual two-tone finish of grey and blue. A central section that’s coated blue slots into the case middle, giving it the twin blue flanks on either side of the bezel.

Measuring 41 mm in diameter and 13.5 mm high, the case is entirely steel, with the blue components coated to achieve the blue finish. Like the other Series 8 models, this has alternating brushed and polished finishing across the case and bracelet. The bezel is also steel, but covered with a glass insert.

The anniversary edition is the first Series 8 GMT to sport a mother-of-pearl dial. Here it’s been lacquered to give it a graduated blue finish that darkens slightly towards the edges. The design of the dial, however, is identical to the regular production models, which instead have a stamped guilloche dial.

The 24-hour GMT hand is in blue to match the overall palette

Besides the movement, the case back also reveals the two-part construction of the case, with the blue-coated flanks visible on either side of the open back.

The movement is the cal. 9054, an automatic with a true GMT function. This means the local-time hour hand can be adjusted independently in sync with the date, making it easy to set the time when crossing time zones. Together with the bidirectional rotating 24-hour bezel, the watch can display up to three time zones simultaneously.

Besides a 50-hour power reserve, the cal. 9054 also has resistance against the “effects of magnetic fields produced by smartphones and tablets” according to Citizen. The technical details of the magnetism resistance are not specified, but it is mostly likely down to the use of paramagnetic materials for the escapement or hairspring.

Key facts and price

Citizen Series 8 880 Mechanical 100th Anniversary
Ref. NB6036-52N

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 13.5 mm
Material: Stainless steel with grey and blue colour coating
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 9054
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and GMT
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Matching stainless steel bracelet with grey and blue colour coating

Limited edition: 2,200 pieces
Availability: At Citizen boutiques and retailers starting September 2024
Price: US$1,995

For more, visit Citizenwatch-global.com.

This was brought to you in partnership with Citizen.