Having been first seen as a one-off for a charity auction, the Konstantin Chaykin Stargazer is now part of the watchmaker’s catalogue. Originally conceived as a unique piece for the postponed Only Watch 2023, the Stargazer is the independent watchmaker’s most complicated wristwatch to date.

Arguably the most successful Russian watchmaker today, Mr Chaykin has long had a passion for astronomy and astrophysics – he created a Martian-time watch in 2018 – so it is unsurprising that the Stargazer is heavily focused on astronomical complications, including a star chart and sunrise-sunset indicator. The complexity of the Stargazer places it in the same rarefied niche of watchmaking occupied by similar grand complications from Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and F. P. Journe. 

Initial thoughts

Virtually identical to the Only Watch unique piece, the regular-production Stargazer remains an exceptional watch. Its complexity is all the more remarkable coming from a small independent outfit, as compared to similar watches developed by large manufacturers. 

The Stargazer has a strong design with distinctive lines, with a style that evokes some of Mr Chaykin’s past space-inspired watches. This unique aesthetic differentiates it from most other astronomically-oriented timepieces, which are primarily classical. Additionally, the brand’s trademark Wristmon format is put to good use here, because the Stargazer is indeed a two-faced horological beast. 

The unique piece created for Only Watch 2023

The fact that it has indications on both dials is not unusual for an astronomical grand complication, but unlike most of its compatriots, the Stargazer can be worn on both sides. The lugs and strap insert, however, make this a very long watch, so it fits best on larger wrists.

The flip side of the Only Watch example

Astronomy oriented

The Stargazer’s cal. K.22-1 contains 17 complications — 11 of which are astronomically-oriented. It is derived from the cal. K.22-0 developed for the Martian Tourbillon of 2021, made more complicated primarily with the addition of the double-faced display.

Just below the tourbillon on the reverse is the Latin phrase “per aspera ad astra”, which translates as “through asperity to the stars” – meaning goals are achieved through adversity. This is particularly apt for the watch, twice over in fact.

For one, the Stargazer’s achievement lies in the difficulty of its complications. And second, the impressive movement is encased in a roughly hewn case of bulat, a forged-patterned steel alloy used in Russia since medieval times.

Since the conventional, single-faced wristwatch is restrictive in terms of information displayed, Mr Chaykin opted for a double-sided case, which can be worn either way thanks to a double-sided strap and reversible buckle.

Playfully referred to as the “Light” and “Dark” sides of the watch, a reference to the colour of the respective dials, each face features a distinct set of indicators. Both faces are laid out the signature Joker style that forms a face with eyes and a mouth.

The watch, in typical Joker fashion, features two crowns, one for setting and the other for winding. The 664-component movement runs for 45 hours on a full wind, which is respectable given it carries 17 complications. 

The “dark” side that is the front dial

With  bridges and other components finished in dark grey, the Dark side shows the hours and minutes regulator-style, with the hours on the left sub-dial and minutes on the right.

On the “forehead”, an open-worked counter features co-axial mean solar and sidereal time indicators in a 24-hour format. Located in the same counter on the “forehead” is a minute rotating sky chart showing the night sky in the Northern hemisphere.

And on either side of the “forehead” counter are the twin scales for the duration of day and night, with hands to indicate sunrise and sunset times that vary through the year. And at the 12 o’clock position is the pointer for the rotating peripheral zodiac sign ring.

The day of the week is shown on a retrograde pointer across the “smile” while the running equation of time indication forms the “nose”.

The Light side shows an altogether separate set of information. Here the bridges are finished with rhodium plating, giving the face a silver hue with gilt accents. The left “eye” is a solar activity cycle tracker, showing the almost periodic 11 year change in the Sun’s magnetic activity.

The right “eye” is a conventional moon phase indicator. This is accurate to within a day in 122 years, which was long the industry norm for such displays. This disappoints slightly, however, given the ultra-accurate indicators of recent times. 

Between the eyes is a small “discrete” moon phase indicator, which only shows the four traditional phases of the moon via  a jumping display with four positions.

On the periphery of the dial are a pair of scales, each occupying half the circumference for the sunrise and sunset azimuth angles, indicated by a pair of central hands.

Finally an opening at six reveals the free-sprung tourbillon regulator, which runs at an uncommon 19,800 beats per hour, or 2.75 Hz.

Cleverly constructed to be worn with either side facing upwards, the bulky bulat case comes in at 42 mm in diameter and 15.3 mm high. The strap is fitted with a reversible pin buckle, and more interestingly also contains sprung inserts in both sections adjacent to the lugs.

These inserts allow the strap to spring back the desired curvature, depending on which side is worn facing up. The downside of this double-sided strap is the highly creased appearance of the leather grain, which will only get more pronounced over time.

Key facts and price

Konstantin Chaykin Stargazer 
Ref. K.22-1

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 15.3 mm
Material: Genuine “bulat”stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: yes

Movement: Calibre K.22-1
Functions: Hours, minutes, retrograde day of the week, various astronomical complications
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 19,800 beats per hour (2.75 Hz)
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Black calfskin and “bulat” steel buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: Direct from Konstantin Chaykin
Price: –

For more information, visit Chaykin.ru

A limited edition available only in Europe, the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon “Blue Panda” is another take on TAG Heuer’s value-minded complication. Retaining the familiar Glassbox case, this has an attractive white-and-blue dial with the flying tourbillon at six.

Initial thoughts

When TAG Heuer released the Carrera Glassbox in 2023, it was well received as a successful attempt at modernising a classic racing chronograph. Although the Glassbox is clearly vintage inspired, it is still an original design. The Blue Panda builds on the appeal of the Glassbox by making it more complication, adding a tourbillon to the mix. Notably, the Blue Panda is the only current variant of the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon with contrast-colour registers, which gives more retro vibes.

Although the 42 mm case is slightly bigger than the standard Carrera without tourbillon, the short lugs allow it to wear quite well on various wrists.

Priced at €25,200 with taxes, the Blue Panda is priced similar to other versions of the model, and remains a decent value proposition. While it is far more expensive than the affordable chronographs that TAG Heuer is known for, it is affordable for this combination of complications. Though the in-house movement is industrially executed, it is high quality and packaged in the attractive Glassbox case.

Another species of “Panda”

The stainless steel case is 42 mm in diameter and 14.3 mm in thickness, and retains the signature elements of the Carrera Glassbox design, like the faceted lugs mirror-polished on the top and satin-brushed on the sides. But its defining feature is the highly domed “glass box” crystal that traces the raised seconds flange around the dial.

Paired with the raised blue flange are the blue sub-dials at three and nine, which are snailed and recessed for added contrast. More colour comes from the chronograph seconds hand and “TAG Heuer” logo in red.

The dial layout is almost perfectly symmetrical, with the one-minute tourbillon is visible through an aperture at six.

Below the open back sits the TH20-09, an in-house movement that features bidirectional winding and 65 hours of power reserve. The free-sprung balance inside the tourbillon cage oscillates at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz).

The movement is industrial, but cleanly decorated with striping on the bridges and an open-worked rotor that form the TAG Heuer shield emblem.

Key facts and price

TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph “Blue Panda”
Ref. CBS5013.FC6572

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 14.3 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. TH20-09
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph and tourbillon
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Blue perforated calf ski strap with polished steel folding clasp 

Limited edition: 50 pieces
Availability: Now at TAG Heuer boutiques and retailers in Europe 
Price: €25,200 including VAT

For more, visit tagheuer.com