Hands On: Patek Philippe “Extra Special” Chronometer of Henry Graves Jr.

Observatory tested and provenance proven.

A patrician banker who gained posthumous fame in the 21st century for his watch collection, Henry Graves Jr. (1868–1953) is most famous for having owned the Graves Supercomplication, once the most complicated watch in the world, and also the most expensive watch ever when it sold at auction ten years ago.

His reputation means the watches he once owned – there were not all that many of them but all were high quality – carry cachet. One such example is coming up for sale at Phillips New York auction. It’s a Patek Philippe “Extra Special” pocket watch that is top-quality chronometer, classical in style and functional, and bearing the all-important Graves family crest on the hinged back.

Now a horological symbol

Not rivals but great collectors

Graves’ modern-day fame as a watch collector was due in part to the ostensible rivalry between him and James Ward Packard (1863-1928), the engineer who founded the eponymous automobile company and an equally accomplished collector of great watches.

Though both were active during the same decades, more or less, the famous competition between the two was a story made up in the 1990s to market the Supercomplication. Graves outlived Packard by 25 years, and the latter was quite ill when Graves was at his collecting peak. Graves bought the “Extra Special” pocket watch here in 1925, the year Ward fell ill with cancer before dying just three years later.

An example of Packard’s impeccable taste: he commissioned this Patek Philippe astronomical complication pocket watch in 1925 and received it in 1927. Image – Patek Philippe

What is certain is Graves’ ambitious and consistent taste in watches. He evidently appreciated mechanical perfection, in complications and chronometers, and even timepieces that counted as avant-garde back then, namely wristwatches.

Unsurprisingly, he was a keen patron of the best watchmakers in Switzerland at the time, particularly Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin.

Not just special

This Patek Philippe chronometer captures Graves’ collecting philosophy well. It is a simple, practical timepiece indicating hours, minutes, seconds, and power reserve on a clean, symmetrical white enamel dial.

The 50 mm open-face case in yellow gold is also classical and seemingly ordinary, save for the coat-of-arms engraved on the back. Also found on most of Graves’ other watches, the crest bears the latin phrase Esse Quam Videri, which translates as “to be rather than to seem”.

Although the watch is functionally and aesthetically straightforward, it is executed perfectly. In fact, it is extra special, literally.

Patek Philippe made several grades of chronometer movements in the early 20th century, including “Extra”, “Special”, and the top grade, “Extra Special”.

Being of the finest quality, this movement is adjusted to eight positions, fully jewelled, and boasts a temperature compensation Guillaume balance along with a micrometer-adjustment swan’s neck regulator. Moreover the balance pivot sits in a diamond endstone instead of an ordinary ruby.

It’s a simple movement, but executed perfectly. The quality is attested to by the double Poinçon de Genève on the movement, as well as the rating certificate issued by the Geneva Observatory in 1920.

The archive extract that accompanies the watch notes the observatory certification. Image – Phillips

The watch first appeared at auction in December 2010 where it was also featured on the catalog’s cover, offered by the then owner who acquired the watch from the estate of Marilyn Prescott Graves (1932-1998), the granddaughter of Henry Graves Jr. She was the daughter of Duncan Preston Graves (1900-1977) and his sole heir.

This watch came to the current owner via a 2010 Christie’s auction where it was sold by an individual who had acquired it from the estate of estate of Marilyn Prescott Graves (1932-1998), the granddaughter of Henry Graves Jr.

Estimated at US$100,000-200,000, the Henry Graves Jr. chronometer is lot 28 in The New York Watch Auction: X that takes place on June 8 and 9. The catalogue and online bidding are available on Phillips.com.


 

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Sinn Introduces the 903 St II Navigation Chronograph

Updated and refined in design.

Known for its military-inspired instrument watches, Sinn revisits one of its signature models with the 903 St II Navigation Chronograph. Updated in terms of the movement and case, the new 903 makes its debut with three dial variants, including a limited edition featuring an attractive light blue dial.

Initial thoughts

The 903 St is curious for bearing a striking similarity to the Breitling Navitimer – a result of Breitling having sold the rights to produce the Navitimer when it went bust during the Quartz Crisis. While the earliest versions of the 903 were essentially rebadged Navitimers – Sinn having bought the components from Breitling – the new 903 is a Sinn creation and also better than previous generations.

The 903 St II in classic black

Compared to earlier generations of the model, the 903 St II is streamlined and improved. Upgrades include removing the fiddly second crown at ten (so the slide rule is now directly operated via the bezel), the addition of luminous blocks for indices, and an applied logo. 

The appeal of the new 903, however, does have one caveat: the date between four and five remains, but only on the regular production version. It’s absent on the limited edition, but that arguably should have been done for all variants. 

The standard 903 St costs US$3,730 with a leather strap, and an additional US$240 for a bracelet. The 500-piece limited edition model is priced at US$4,170. The affordable price makes it a more attractive proposition than many other aviation chronographs, particularly those powered by the same La Joux-Perret calibre. But the 903 is not quite the signature Sinn pilot’s chronograph, which would be the more affordable 103.

The earlier generation 903 St with the second crown at ten

Updated and refined in design

During the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s, Breitling eventually went under, leading to its liquidation. The rights to produce the Navitimer, as well as Navitimer components like cases and dials, were sold to Sinn. Other companies, including Ollech & Wajs also bought bits and pieces of Breitling (Ollech & Wajs then sold Navitimers under the “Aviation” brand). Most of the inventory went to Sicura, which was owned by Ernest Schneider, who later bought the Breitling name as well.

The new 903 retains the familiar Navitimer features, including the three-register dial and bi-directional slide rule bezel, a tool for pilots to calculate flight times and distance. Three dial colours are available: black, dark blue, both with a sun-ray finish; and a limited edition in light blue. Notably, the date disc is tone-on-tone while the limited edition omits the date entirely..

All versions of the new 903 share silvered registers that contrast with the dial, along with applied markers and inserts on the hands made of luminous ceramic composite. Additionally, the Sinn logo at 12 is applied instead of printed.

The light blue 903 St HB

Aside from cosmetic changes to the dial, the steel case has also been redesigned. Originally used to rotate the bezel, the second crown at ten is now gone. Additionally, the new case has a water resistance rating of 200 m, up from 100 m before.

Sinn managed to all do that without changing the case dimensions, which remain the same at a manageable 41 mm in diameter and 14.5 mm high, essentially identical to the Navitimer of the 1960s.

The dark blue St B E II

Through the display case back the La Joux-Perret L110 is visible. Derived from the Valjoux 7750, the L110 has a substantial 60-hour power reserve and operates at 4 Hz. The original architecture was modified to replace the cam with a column wheel, but the oscillating pinion was retained.

The limited edition model is powered by the LJP 112 that lacks the date but otherwise identical.


Key facts and price

Sinn 103 St II Navigation Chronograph
Ref. 903.090 (St II, black)
Ref. 903.091 (St B E II, dark blue)
Ref. 903.095 (St HB, light blue)

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 14.5 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: La Joux-Perret L110 or L112 (only for the limited edition)
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph with central seconds (no date function for the limited edition)
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet or leather strap

Limited edition: Regular production except for the St HB which is limited to 500 pieces
Availability: At Sinn retailers
Price:
St II & St B E II : US$3,730 (strap); US$3,970 (bracelet)
St HB: US$4,170

For more information, visit Sinn.de.


 

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