Founded last year by Thomas van Straaten, VPC is a Dutch micro brand making its debut with the Type 37HW. Mr van Straaten, who formerly works for an Amsterdam-based watch dealer and now writes for media platform Fratello, started VPC with the goal of creating the “ultimate” everyday watch in his words. VPC is short for Venustas Per Constantiam, Latin that translates as either  “beauty through constancy” or “charm through restraint.” 

Featuring numerous clever details, the Type 37HW is the result of Mr van Straaten’s own experience owning, and later growing bored with, numerous watches that, in his view, featured compromised designs. He appears to have approached this problem forensically, considering everything from the bracelet end-links to the typography on the dial.

Initial Thoughts

The Type 37HW is an impressive debut that manages to stand out in a crowded segment of the watch market thanks to several interesting details. The central premise of the Type 37HW is that it is a “go anywhere, do anything”, or GADA, watch. Almost every aspect of the watch appears to have been designed with this use case in mind. 

The Type 37HW offers goldilocks proportions, and is unusually slim at just 9.8 mm thick (including 2 mm for the domed sapphire crystal). The svelte profile is likely possible thanks to the use of a manually wound Sellita SW216-1. Unfortunately, the combination of a screw-down crown and a manually wound movement – one with a relatively short 45-hour power reserve – seems at odds with the philosophy of a daily wear watch since it requires daily unscrewing and screwing down of the crown.

As a watch intended for daily use, the ergonomics were clearly top of mind for Mr van Straaten and the watch’s designer, Max Renick, whose credentials include designs for Roger Smith, Kari Voutilainen, Hautlence, and Maurice Lacroix. The dial design and colour choices are elegant and restrained, while the case and bracelet contribute to a sense of robustness.

Overall, the Type 37HW offers a compelling value at €2,479. While more sophisticated movements can be had for less from established brands like Longines and startups like Oak & Oscar, the Type 37HW is nonetheless a worthwhile contender in this segment. The Type 37HW stands out from a crowded field thanks to its rigorous attention to detail, impressive specs, and vintage sensibility.

One watch for every occasion

Everyday wearability starts with the 37.5 mm case, which features short, downturned lugs that should provide stability on the wrist. According to Mr van Straaten, the VPC team spent a lot of time iterating these case details, using 3D-printed models to optimise the wearing comfort, and as a result the Type 37HW should fit well on almost any wrist, and tuck comfortably under most shirt cuffs. The case and bracelet also feature an anti-scratch coating that increases surface hardness to 1,800 Vickers. However, it should be noted that such coatings, while enhancing robustness, do make refinishing a worn or damaged case near impossible.

The slim case is just 7.8 mm in height; the domed sapphire crystal adds another 2 mm.

Contributing to a good fit, the bracelet offers tool-less micro-adjustment in the clasp. And what initially appears to be a simple three-link bracelet is actually a proprietary design that boasts some unexpected features and design choices. Most significant is the way in which the bracelet fits against the case. The bracelet end-links were designed to fit under a shallow hood to create the visual illusion that the bracelet is flowing uninterrupted through the case. To enhance this visual effect, the end-links are actually constructed of three pieces, rather than a single piece as is the industry norm. 

The bracelet also tapers nicely from 20 mm at the lugs to 16 mm at the clasp, and features screwed links, a more elegant and user-friendly alternative to the pinned links that are common at this price point. The bracelet can also be removed without tools thanks to quick-release spring bar tabs under the end-links. 

Achieving these specs at this price point is a tall order; even established independent brands often struggle to get bracelets right. It remains to be seen whether the bracelet lives up to its specs in the metal, particularly where the fit and finish of the bracelet are up to scratch.

VPC has carefully considered the strap options as well. When the bracelet is removed, users have two sets of lug holes to choose from. The positions of the holes are designed to allow a thin strap to fit under the lug hood, for a completely seamless look, while the second set can accommodate thicker straps for a more traditional look.

Thoughtful typography

At launch, the VPC Type 37HW will be available with grey, blue, or green dial options. Each color is paired with a contrasting small seconds register in either dark grey or white. All three options are appealing, but the strikingly monochrome aesthetic of the grey dial stands out.

The “Venustas Per Constantiam” wordmark on the dial is also interesting, rendered in a bespoke serif typeface created for VPC by freelance graphic designer Samuel Baker. This typeface is meant to evoke the quirky fonts often found on vintage watches, and it succeeds. And while the Type 37HW does not feature any numerals, the typeface designed by Mr Baker does include numerals as well, enabling VPC to maintain visual consistency should future models include date windows or other design elements that require numbers.

Behind the solid, screw-down case back is a chronometer-certified Sellita SW216-1. This manually wound caliber helps the Type 37HW achieve its impressive slimness, but it is probably the one thing I’d change about the watch. This is due to the fact that the watch features a screw-down crown, and the SW216-1 has a relatively short power reserve of just 45 hours. 

While these facts may seem unrelated, this means the crown will need to be unscrewed for winding every other day, which is both tedious and will increase wear on the threads of the crown tube. In this context, it’s worth mentioning an alternative that offers a similar degree of aesthetic consistency, but with an automatic Sellita SW300: the Oak & Oscar Olmsted. Available in similar dial colours and featuring its own custom typeface, the Olmsted is just 1 mm thicker than the Type 37HW, despite its automatic movement.

Key facts and price

VPC Type 37HW

Diameter: 37.5 mm
Height: 9.8 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: Sellita SW216-1
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Manual wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Stainless steel bracelet

Limited edition: No, but the initial production run will be a numbered edition of 300 pieces, with 100 in each dial colour
Availability: Presale opens at 14:00 CET on March 7, with delivery at end 2024
Price: €2,479 (excluding taxes)

For more, visit vpcwatch.com.

Usually focused on decorative and artisanal dials made affordable, the Seiko Presage collection now turns to traditional textiles for inspiration. Comprising five models, the Presage Classic Series features textured dials in a range of discreet colours, each inspired by the textures and colours of Japanese silk. The dials are matched with a redesigned case conceived to feel thinner, along with retro-style bracelets.

Initial thoughts

Unusual dials inspired by Japanese culture and priced affordably are precisely the appeal of the Presage. The Classic Series carries on with this specialty.

The domed, silk-texture dials set them apart from similarly-priced watches. The SPB467, for instance, appears to have a fashionable salmon dial, but the fine texturing – inspired by araigaki (or “washed persimmon”) silk – distinguishes it from the competition. The texturing is finer than most dials in the same price range.

That said, there are actually two distinct dial patterns in the Classic Series (and four different colours across five references). Three are time-and-date models that are concise and elegant. The two “open heart” models, on the other hand, are not for everyone since the aperture revealing the balance wheel disrupts the aesthetics of the dial.

Besides the dial, the Classic Series also features a new case design that camouflages the height of the case with curved lugs and a thinner case middle. This is matched with a vintage-style bracelet that brings to mind old-school “beads of rice” bracelets.

Available only on a steel bracelet for now, the Classic Series starts at US$950 for time-and-date models, with the “open heart” costing US$175 for extra. Both versions are excellent value propositions as they bring refined dial patterns to a price range that ordinarily doesn’t allow for that.

Fine textile patterns

Something reminiscent of the patterned dials found on Grand Seiko watches, the dials of the Classic Series are meant to evoke silk (although they are not actually fabric). The time-and-date models, namely SPB463, SPB465, and SPB467, have a fine, seemingly random pattern inspired by woven silk.

The time-and-date models are available in shiro-iro (cream white), sensaicha (dark brown-green), and araigaki (bleached persimmon).

The “open heart” pair, SPB469 and SPB471, have dials with a radial finish modelled on raw silk yarn in shiro-iro (cream white) and sumi-iro (grey-black) respectively.

These reveal the balance wheel at a window at nine o’clock, while the sub-dial at six is a 24-hour indicator in sync with the hands.

Both models share the same case that measures 40.2 mm in diameter and 13 mm high. The dimensions are similar to past Presage models, but the case has been tweaked in both design and finish to create a thinner appearance. Aside from domed case back, the lugs also curve downwards.

The redesigned case is matched with bracelet modelled on 1970s bracelets, but with modern design details, including curved links that are alternately brushed and polished.

Both models are also equipped with variants of the same 6R series movement with a useful 72-hour power reserve. The time-and-date models contain the cal. 6R55 that is also found in a variety of other Presage models.

The “open heart” model, on the other hand, features the cal. 6R5J, which is essentially the same movement with the date replaced by a 24-hour display.

Key facts and price

Seiko Presage Classic Series 
Ref. SPB463 (shiro-iro)
Ref. SPB465 (sensaicha)
Ref. SPB467 (araigaki)

Diameter: 40.2 mm
Height: 13 mm
Material: Steel with super-hard coating
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 6R55
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Seiko boutiques and select retailers starting June 2024
Price: US$950

Key facts and price

Seiko Presage Classic Series 
Ref. SPB469 (shiro-iro)
Ref. SPB471 (sumi-iro)

Diameter: 40.2 mm
Height: 13 mm
Material: Steel with super-hard coating
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 6R5J
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and 24-hour indicator
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Seiko boutiques and select retailers starting June 2024
Price: US$1,125

For more information, visit Seikowatches.com.

This was brought to you in partnership with Seiko.

Correction March 12, 2024: The Classic Series is made up of five references with four different dial colours, and not five colours as indicated in an earlier version of the article.

A bestseller available in several variants to date, the modern-day “62MAS” now gets a substantive upgrade with the Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s Watch. The new diver is a direct successor of cal. 6R35-powered models, including the SPB143 and SPB239 of 2021.

Released in two regular-production models (SPB451 and SPB453), plus a 100th anniversary special edition (SPB455), the latest Prospex “62MAS” improves on earlier models in three key areas: water resistance is now 300 m, the case is slightly more compact, and the movement is now the cal. 6R55 with a 72-hour power reserve.

SPB451

Initial Thoughts

As is usually the case with Prospex dive watches, the latest take on the 62MAS is robust and good looking. The new divers are safe bets as they rely on a proven formula – the classic 62MAS design with improved technical features. The SPB455 in particular stands out with its vintage-flavoured gilt accents.

That said, the designs stay traditional; these are difficult to distinguish from their predecessors at a distance. A more distinctive design, perhaps with patterned dials that Seiko excels in, would have made these more compelling.

SPB453

Importantly, the new trio also stays in the sub-US$1,500 price segment. Few dive watches in this price range have the same historical provenance, since Seiko was a pioneer in dive watch development.

The regular production pair are only US$100 pricier than the SPB143 (and the special edition an extra US$200). The premium is easily justified given upgrades including the next-generation cal. 6R55 and 300 m of water resistance.

Though Seiko’s average pricing has crept up over the years, it has been accompanied by steady improvements in features and finish. At US$1,300 for the standard model and US$1,400 for the special edition, the new models remain an excellent value proposition.

New movement, new case

Despite the visual similarities between the new diver and past models, the latest “62MAS” is a different watch. To start with, it has a more compact case that’s 40 mm in diameter, 13 mm high, and 46.4 mm in lug-to-lug length. In comparison, its predecessor is 40.5 mm by 13.2 mm by 47.6 mm.

The biggest change in dimensions lies in the lug-t0-lug length, which is over 1 mm less thanks to shorter lugs that were designed for better wearability. Notably, Seiko also redesigned the bracelet for the same reason. The bracelet now features shorter links and a small folding clasp so it fits better on a wider range of wrists.

Besides its size, the case also gains greater water resistance. It’s now rated to 300 m, as opposed to 200 m for past models. According to Seiko, the new diver has the greatest depth rating of any non-saturation-diving watch in its catalogue.

The movement inside has also been improved with the installation of the cal. 6R55. An evolution of the cal. 6R35 found in past “62MAS” models, the cal. 6R55 is the latest generation self-winding movement intended for Seiko’s mid-range watches.

SPB455 special edition

Used here for the first time in a Prospex model, cal. 6R55 has a slight increase in power reserve to 72 hours, along with a reduced overall height, contributing to the thinner case.

In terms of design, the three new models stick closely to the historical “62MAS” look, retaining the oversized hour markers and baton hands. However, the dial design has been gently tweaked, most notably with the date window now located between four and five, rather than at three as before.

All three models share the same specs, differing only in dial colours. The regular product models have either a radially-brushed blue or matte-black dial, matched with white luminous paint on the dial and hands.

From left: SPB451, SPB453, and SPB455

The 100th anniversary special edition, on the other hand, has a sunburst grey dial with faux-vintage luminous paint. This is matched with gilt hands and markings on the bezel.

Additionally, the special edition is delivered with a fabric strap in addition to the bracelet. The NATO-style strap is woven from recycled plastic bottles using a traditional method known as Seichu. According to Seiko, the strap is four times stronger than conventional fabric straps, as well as resistant to degradation from exposure to sunlight.

The SPB455 on the fabric strap

Key facts and price

Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s Watch
Ref. SPB451
Ref. SPB453
Ref. SPB455 (100th anniversary special edition)

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 13 mm
Material: Stainless Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 300 m

Movement: Cal. 6R55
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet; SPB455 includes additional fabric strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Starting June 2024
Price: US$1,300 (SPB451, SPB453), US$1,400 (SPB455)

For more information, visit seikowatches.com.

This was brought to you in partnership with Seiko.