Contemporary yet traditional, the Pano collection has been a staple of Glashütte Original’s offerings. The latest Pano wristwatch is a departure from the line’s typically clean styling – the PanoLunarTourbillon Limited Edition. Limited to 25 watches with a platinum case, the new watch is a variant the standard tourbillon model, dressed up with impeccable engraving on the dial and movement.

Initial thoughts

With hand-engraved filigree decoration across the dial (and movement, this is easily one of the most attractive in the Pano collection, more so than the standard PanoLunarTourbillon.

Similar to the decoration usually found only on the balance cock of Glashütte Original movements, the engraving is made up of pronounced lines and a complex pattern, giving the watch a markedly different character from the standard model.

The hand engraving was executed in Glashütte Original’s dial factory in Pforzheim

And the look is further enhanced by the metallic blue of panorama date, hands, indices and moon phase, a blue-on-silver livery that provides a sharp and elegant contrast.

While the look is elegantly ornate, it’s a big watch, clocking in at 40 mm wide and 13.10 mm tall, probably a bit too big for a watch of this style. The case size suits contemporary tastes, but something thinner and perhaps 38 mm in diameter would work better with the design.

German aesthetic

Underneath the decoration, the watch is identical to the standard PanoLunarTourbillon. It retains the appealing, asymmetrical dial layout that’s a key feature of the Pano collection – something that admittedly brought to mind the Lange 1, though less so with the newer Pano models. Overall, the dial is clean and legible, and asymmetrical yet balanced.

In keeping with the traditional Teutonic take on the tourbillon, the watch features a flying tourbillon, invented by German watchmaker Alfred Helwig in 1920.

Cantilevered on the bottom rather than being held in place by a bridge on top, the cage of the tourbillon is modelled on Helwig’s original design, one that complements the dial engraving very well.

The movement

Visible through the case back is the in-house cal. 93-12. Decorated similarly and equally attractive as the dial, the movement also features a large, stainless steel plaque emblazoned with “Flying Tourbillon” – a superfluous feature that distracts from the engraving.

That aside, the finishing is excellent in typical Glashütte Original style, which in turn is now known as the German style of movement decoration (and one shared by A. Lange & Söhne as well). That means blued screws, gold accents, and the occasional jewel in a gold chaton.

Key Facts and Price

Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon – Limited Edition
Ref. 1-93-12-01-03-30

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 13.10 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal 93-12
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, moon phase and flying tourbillon
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Blue alligator

Limited edition: 25 pieces
Availability: From end-August at boutiques and authorised retailers
Price: €126,720; or 205,800 Singapore dollars

For more information, visit Glashuette-original.com.

H. Moser & Cie. debuted its inaugural sporty watch in 2015 with the Pioneer Centre Seconds (and followed up recently with the even more sporty Streamliner). Now Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red with a red fumé dial joins the line up. Both the colour and name are inspired by the original Swiss Mad watch of 2017, which took its colours from the Swiss national flag.

Initial thoughts

As is typical of Moser’s fumé finish, the dial is immediately gripping. The graduated, smoked finish results in a colour that varies in shade depending on lighting and perspective, which adds a lot of visual appeal.

Though graduated-colour dials were not invented by Moser, it has become synonymous with the brand. Moser has presented fumé dials in green and many shades of blue, but bold red finish is perhaps the most enticing to date.

Although the Pioneer is technically a sports watch, the elegant styling of the dial does not translate well onto such the large, almost-43 mm case, which definitely wears and looks large on the wrist. I would have preferred a case of say, 38 mm, large enough to be a sports watch, while still complimenting the dial.

Minimalism

While the colour is striking, the watch itself is minimalist and no-frills in the usual Moser style, displaying only the time without any superfluous elements on the dial. Still, the dial manages to incorporate several details that add to the appeal, including faceted markers, open-worked hands, and luminous dots on the flange.

Designed as a sporty version of Moser’s traditional case shape, the case has sculpted lines with angular and bevelled lugs, along with fluted case sides that resemble intake vents – a quirky detail that elevates the appeal. The case is stainless steel, with a relatively thin bezel that centres attention on the dial, while the dimensions are 42.8 mm wide and 15 mm thick.

The movement

The watch is driven by the brand’s workhorse HMC 200 caliber. Visually restrained in comparison to the brand’s higher-end calibers, the HMC 200 nevertheless boasts some trademark Moser movement elements such as the moustache-shaped balance bridge and the alternating wide and narrow Geneva stripes. The movement employs a bi-directional, pawl winding system and has a power reserve of 72 hours.

Key Facts and Price

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red
Ref. 3200-1207

Diameter: 42.8 mm
Height: 15.0 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: HMC 200
Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Rubber

Availability: Now at authorised retailers
Price: 12,900 Swiss francs

For more information, visit H-moser.com.