Although Francois-Paul Journe is best known for his inventions like the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite and Resonance, not to mention the whole suite of Octa models, the Chronomètre Souverain was also arguably one of his brand’s foundational models.

This year F.P. Journe is marking two decades of the watch with the Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary, which is essentially the original in new dress – the dial is now dark blue with applied gold numerals.

Initial thoughts

When the Chronomètre Souverain debuted in 2005 – the same year as the Breguet Tradition that was recently revived – it was novel and exciting; I remember the buzz amongst enthusiasts then. The F.P. Journe brand was barely six years old.

The Chronomètre Souverain was then one of the rare few time-only watches from an independent watchmaker, and it had an all-new movement to boot. Today it is less exciting for sure, but the movement remains surprising novel for a basic calibre. As an entry-level watch, the Chronomètre Souverain remains excellent (even if availability is an obstacle).

Although the Chronomètre Souverain is the simplest mechanical F.P. Journe watch, the cal. 1304 inside still retains the technical hallmarks of the brand, namely elegant, concise engineering and symmetry. Clever touches include the “invisible” gear train; only the regulator and barrels are visible on the main plate.

From its conception, the cal. 1304 was conceived for chronometry. The utility and strength of the cal. 1304 can be inferred from the simple fact that it’s used as a base for other, far more complex movements, including the cal. 1504 of the Chronomètre Optimum.

With the movement and case unchanged, the anniversary edition has the same appeal as the original models. The new dial, however, is a welcome upgrade. The applied numerals add a subtle new dimension to the dial, while also making it a bit more elaborate, as it should be given the price today. Twenty years on, the simple, printed dial of the original Chronomètre Souverain feels a bit plain though it was perfectly acceptable then, especially considering the price, even by the standards of those days.

While the dial upgrade is the most obvious, the rest of the watch has subtly evolved over the originals as well. The movement decoration has certainly improved. It’s still industrial-artisanal, and probably more industrial than artisanal, but noticeably more refined than that on the originals.

The anniversary edition is only a cosmetic improvement over the original. Naturally, one could wish for a new calibre for the anniversary. But F.P. Journe has instead installed the new calibre derived from this one inside the Chronomètre Furtif.

While it isn’t fancy, the Chronomètre Souverain 20th anniversary is priced correctly – it costs the same as the regular production version – CHF36,000 in gold and a little under CHF40,000 in platinum. By the elevated standards of today’s market for independent watchmaking, that’s almost a bargain. However, the popularity of F.P. Journe watches means obtaining one is difficult, which is a shame as the Chronomètre Souverain is an excellent entry-level watch.

Chronometer

Mr Journe’s inspiration for the Chronomètre Souverain were marine chronometers of old, which similarly had three hands along with a power reserve indicator. That explains the inverted scale on the power reserve, where “0” indicates zero hours since the watch was last wound, just as it was on marine chronometers.

Equally notable is the position of the power reserve indicator just beside the crown, located on the same horizontal plane as the hands. Conventionally this would be impractical as it gets in the way of the keyless works, but a clever twist in the construction of the power reserve display makes it possible.

The anniversary edition preserves the dial design of the original, right down to the scaled down “7” and “8”, a clever trick to avoid cutting into the minute track. The dial centre is similarly finished with clous de Paris guilloche.

But unlike the silvered dial on the original, this is done in a dark, matte blue that’s also found on some regular production models as well as special editions. The more substantive change is not the colour, but the applied numerals – they are solid 18k gold appliqués to match the case.

The dial is dark blue, but the dial disc itself is silver

The anniversary edition wears exactly like the original, as the case remains unchanged. The case style is the trademark F.P. Journe style that is simple but effective.

Available in the usual 18k rose gold or platinum, the case is an impressively thin 9 mm high, while the diameter is 40 mm. The original was also available in a 38 mm case, which unfortunately is no longer offered by F.P. Journe for any model.

The cal. 1304 inside similarly remains unchanged from the original. The movement has a fairly symmetrical layout, with large twin barrels on an engine-turned base plate, along with the balance wheel positioned in between.

The going train is mostly concealed below the base plate, leaving no visible connection between the barrels and balance, enhancing the visual balance.

As is now tradition for F.P. Journe, the bridges and base plate of the movement are 18k red gold

Styling aside, the cal. 1304 was clearly designed well in terms of chronometry. The two large barrels unwind simultaneously, delivering substantial and linear energy to the balance wheel throughout the 56-hour power reserve.

The balance is the same four-spoke, free-sprung balance found in other F.P. Journe movements. It’s attached to a flat hairspring, which is probably a concession for thinness as an overcoil would increase the height of the movement.

While the cal. 1304 is essentially unchanged here, the decoration has improved over the originals. The bevelling, for instance, is a little more polished and reveals less milling marks. This reflects the steady vertical integration and development of F.P. Journe’s manufacture. Overall the quality of execution compared well with high-end industrial brands, though the latest-generation of Patek Philippe movements, for instance, are a little bit more polished.

The anniversary edition in rose gold (left), and platinum. Image – F.P. Journe

Key facts and price

F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary
Ref. CS

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 9 mm
Material: 18k rose gold or platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Unavailable

Movement: Cal. 1304
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and power reserve
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 56 hours

Strap: Crocodile with pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: At F.P. Journe boutiques and retailers
Estimate: CHF39,600 in platinum; and CHF36,600 in gold

For more information, visit Fpjourne.com.