Having made its debut last summer, London-based Anoma returns with the A1 Slate, an entry level watch that punches above its weight in terms of design. Inspired by a triangular table designed in the 1950s by French designer Charlotte Perriand, the A1 Slate executes the mid-century aesthetic with aplomb.

Over the past few years we’ve seen a number of unusually shaped watches come to market, perhaps as a cultural reaction to the proliferation of classical designs that otherwise dominate. Among these, the Anoma A1 stands out for its commitment to value and its undiluted form.

Initial thoughts

When the Anoma A1 debuted with the First Series, my first reaction was that it was simply a triangular watch. Closer examination revealed a number of intriguing details, like the offset rotation of the crystal relative to the case. The A1 Slate takes things up a notch, with an attractive grooved dial that brings the design to life.

The A1 is all about its triangular stainless steel case, which is roughly 39 mm in diameter. The curved edges call to mind a Wankel rotory engine, and give the watch a pebble-like presence. A slim leather strap fits into hidden lugs, allowing the watch’s shape to remain undiluted.

Like its predecessor, the A1 Slate is powered by the Sellita SW100, a diminutive automatic movement that was chosen for its ability to fit within the compact triangular case. The movement is common and industrial, which should give potential buyers confidence in its ability to be serviced easily and cost-effectively.

Priced at just £1,800, the A1 Slate offers an impressive value proposition. Its differentiated aesthetic and subtle details result in a watch that is a cut above most similarly priced peers. That said, the low price is a byproduct of the fact that most of the case and dial components are produced by subcontractors in China and Hong Kong, where production costs are much lower. Nevertheless, the A1 Slate shows how good Chinese suppliers are getting.

More than a colour change

Naturally, the most significant difference between the A1 First Series and the A1 Slate is the dial, but not just its colour. The debut model featured a blue dial characterised by the contrast between the vertically brushed main surface and the satin-finished hour track. This contrast gave the watch a different character depending on the lighting, an effect that enhances the wearing experience. The dial also included a subtle logo at 12 that is absent on the new model.

The A1 Slate is more than just a grey version of the original. Like the First Series, the play of the light emphasises the contrasting textures between the four triangular ‘rings’ of the dial. But here the contrast is achieved with alternating grooved and vertically brushed treatment of the different sections. Judging by the stock images, the dial appears to have a degree of personality usually only found at much higher price points.

Tried-and-true movement

The A1 Slate uses the same movement as that of the First Series, namely the Sellita SW100. An automatic movement with a small diameter of about of 17 mm, the SW100 is often used for ladies watches. But in this case, it was chosen to fit within the confines of the A1’s signature triangular case.

Interestingly, the SW100 is a center seconds movement, but the A1 displays only the hours and minutes. A close look at the hand stack reveals a small cap over the center, which helps cover the seconds pinion. This cap likely rotates once a minute, though its finishing means it looks stationary. The same trick is employed by Rolex in its 1908 collection.

This decision likely prevented the need for any movement modifications, helping keep costs in check and contributing the low price of the watch. In general, I am in favour of startup brands choosing off-the-shelf movements since they are usually reliable and easy to service by local independent watch repairers.

Key facts and price

Anoma A1 Slate

Diameter: 39 mm by 38 mm
Height: 9.45 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Sellita SW100
Functions: Hours, minutes
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Leather with pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: Orders open March 10, 2025, with delivery in June 2025
Price: £1,800 excluding taxes

For more information, visit Anomawatches.com.

To celebrate 60 years of dive watches, Seiko is diving into the deep end with three additions to the Prospex range: the 60th Anniversary Marinemaster Professional (SLA081), 1968 Heritage Diver GMT (SPB509), and 1965 Heritage Diver (SPB511). Whether you’re a die-hard Seiko collector or simply a looking for an affordable, high quality diver, all three are distinct enough from their stablemates to be worth a look.

But as exciting as the watches are, they’re arguably overshadowed by something simple yet significant, a feature Seiko enthusiasts have been requesting for a long time: a bracelet with a micro-adjustment clasp that can be resized on the go by up to 15 mm.

The 1968 Heritage Diver GMT SPB509 (left), and 1965 Heritage Diver SPB511

Initial thoughts

In Western culture, significant anniversaries like the 25th, 50th, and 100th tend to be celebrated with great fanfare. In contrast, Japanese culture (and also widely East Asian culture) emphasises the 60th birthday – kanreki in Japanese – which also coincides with the completion of the traditional 12-year zodiac cycle. In this context, it’s worth looking closely at how Seiko is choosing to celebrate this milestone.

The 1965 and 1968 Heritage models are powered by the well-known cal. 6R-series movements, which offer a 72-hour power reserve. While the pair are essentially variants of existing watches with new wave-stamped dials, the massive Marinemaster is the standout, and an entirely new model.

The wave pattern dial of the 1965 Heritage Diver SPB511

The Marinemaster features a monobloc titanium case that is just over 45 mm wide and 16 mm thick. Seiko enthusiasts will appreciate the proprietary construction of the Marinemaster that’s similar to that found in Seiko’s iconic “Tuna” dive watches.

And the Marinemaster also takes things up a notch in terms of mechanics, and features the new top-of-the-line cal. 8L45 which also runs for 72 hours but does so at a higher 4 Hz beat rate for extra rate stability in the face of shocks.

The Marinemaster Professional SLA081

The Prospex range is known for being a good value, and that’s obviously the case for the 1965 and 1968 Heritage models, which cost US$1,400 and US$1,750, respectively.

The high-spec Marinemaster is also an interesting value proposition, but it comes in at a hefty US$4,600, which might result in some initial sticker shock. This pricing is largely justified by the titanium case and bracelet as well as upgraded movement.

At long last, an adjustable clasp

Notably, all three models include a new adjustable clasp that can be adjusted through six steps, each of 2.5 mm, resulting in a total adjustment range of 15 mm. This will help wearers find an ideal fit, even if their wrists expand or contract throughout the day, and it also allows the bracelet to fit over a wetsuit.

With enthusiasts having long wanted such a clasp, especially since Seiko’s rivals already offer the feature, the new clasp shows that Seiko is listening to the market, and is hopefully a sign of similar things to come at Grand Seiko.

The new adjustable clasp should delight Seiko enthusiasts. Notably, it makes its debut in both steel and titanium.

Deep dive on the Marinemaster case

The Marinemaster is an enigmatic watch; there’s nothing else quite like it. It’s large, in excess of 45 mm, and rated to 600 m, similar specs to the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean. Despite the immense size, the watch is surprisingly lightweight as it is almost entirely titanium, but upgraded with Seiko’s “super-hard coating” that boosts scratch resistance.

But unlike the Planet Ocean, the Marinemaster features a monobloc case and L-shaped gaskets capable of preventing the ingress of helium gas during saturation diving, eliminating the need for a helium release valve. This construction was pioneered by the 600 m “Tuna” dive watch of 1975 conceived for professional divers working in pressurised environments where the atmosphere is saturated with inert gases like helium.

Like its historical predecessors, the Marinemaster features a monobloc case; the movement is inserted from the front.

Another interesting aspect of the Marinemaster’s case is the way the bezel is attached to the case. Instead of being press-fit or attached via screws in its rim, the bezel is held securely in place by a pair of retaining clamp in between the lugs that are secured onto the case from the back.

This unusual construction makes the watch something of a hybrid between standard Marinemaster models and the “Tuna” divers that feature an outer case to protect the inner case and bezel.

The Marinemaster features an unusual case construction.

The Marinemaster’s bezel insert is made of steel coated in diamond-like carbon (DLC), as opposed to the more-common aluminum or ceramic. This combination offers the look of ceramic – the coating gives it six times the hardness of steel – but the durability and cost-effectiveness of steel.

The 1965 and 1968

The 1965 and 1968 models sit at the more affordable end of the spectrum. The 1965 model is based on the 62MAS diver and its distinctive flat-fronted case, while the 1968 is inspired by the 1968 professional diver’s watch. The two are based on existing models, but facelifted with wave-patterned dials inspired by a traditional Japanese motif.

The Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s Watch SPB511

Both models are presented in stainless steel finished with  “super-hard coating” that results in superior scratch resistance. The two are powered by 6R series movements, a family of workhorse automatic movements widely employed in the Prospex range. The calibres have a useful 72-hour power reserve.

The 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT SPB509 is notable for being both a dive watch and a second time zone. However, the GMT function is an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, also known as a “caller” type GMT, as opposed to an “true” GMT with an adjustable local-time hand.

The 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT SPB509

Key facts and price

Seiko Prospex Marinemaster Professional Diver’s Watch 60th Anniversary Limited Edition
Ref. SLA081

Diameter: 45.4 mm
Height: 16 mm
Material: Titanium and stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 600 m

Movement: Cal. 8L45
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet

Limited edition: 600 pieces
Availability: Starting July 2025
Price: US$4,600

Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT 60th Anniversary Limited Edition
Ref. SPB509

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 13.3 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 300 m

Movement: Cal. 6R54
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and GMT
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet

Limited edition: 6,000 pieces
Availability: Starting June 2025
Price: US$1,750

Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s Watch 60th Anniversary Limited Edition
Ref. SPB511

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 13 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 300 m

Movement: Cal. 6R55
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet

Limited edition: 6,000 pieces
Availability: Starting June 2025
Price: US$1,400

For more information, visit seikowatches.com.

This was brought to you in partnership with Seiko.

In the 1970s, arguably no watch brand was having more fun than Seiko, which launched the bold King Seiko Vanac collection in 1972. Five decades on, Seiko returns to the concept with the all-new King Seiko Vanac, with bold dial colours and an angular, faceted case inspired by its namesake.

Despite an entirely new design – the modern-day Vanac is not a remake – the collection captures the style and spirit of the funky 1970s originals perfectly. Available in five different dial colours, each inspired by the Tokyo skyline at a different time of day, the Vanac also features a new automatic cal. 8L45, now the highest-spec movement for Seiko’s mid tier watches.

Initial thoughts

The past decade has treated us to more than our fair share of vintage reissues, which by and large have focused on the glorious designs of the 1950s and 1960s. But there are only so many historical designs from this era that a brand can revisit, and as we move into 2025, it’s nice to see a little variety as Seiko looks to the 1970s. And while the Vanac is very much vintage inspired, it isn’t quite a reissue of any particular historical model.

Though the bracelet is integrated, the design is different enough from Gerald Genta’s designs that it avoids the common pitfall of looking like it’s trying too hard to look like something else.

A selection of vintage Vanac watches

The Vanac features a 41 mm case that is quite chunky at 14.3 mm. The case itself is essentially an elongated hexagon, with a circular bezel and dial opening, and features alternating brushed and polished surfaces that bring the angular shape to life.

Despite the transparent case back, a first for King Seiko, the Vanac is water resistant to 100 m, making it a true “go anywhere, do anything'” watch; versatility that helps reinforce the overall value proposition.

The new Vanac range is powered by a new automatic movement, the cal. 8L45. In the past, you could get a 4 Hz rate or a 72-hour reserve from Seiko, but never both. The cal. 8L45 combines there traits, and takes its place as the new top-of-the-line Seiko mechanical movement in its mid-price offerings.

Priced under US$3,000, the King Seiko Vanac collection sits at the upper end of the Seiko range, but is still significantly cheaper than an entry level mechanical Grand Seiko. All things considered, it’s a decent value considering the new movement, bold visual style, and typical Seiko quality.

A groovy design

The Vanac is defined by its bold dials, angular case, and integrated bracelet. And while the trend towards integrated bracelet sport watches may be nearing its end, the Vanac manages to feel fresh. It feels distinctly seventies, without coming off as a wannabe Royal Oak or Nautilus. This is actually quite a feat, and helps the Vanac stand on its own.

The bracelet perfectly fits the design of the case, and is installed with quick-release pins. This is an interesting choice for a watch with proprietary lugs, and might suggest that proprietary straps are in the works. But if I could change one thing about the Vanac it would be the bracelet, specifically the visible pin holes which are present all the way to the case and cheapen the look.

There are five dials to choose from, though ice blue is exclusive to the Tokyo boutique, so factor in the cost of airfare. The other four options, navy blue, purple, ivory, and brown, will be more widely available, with only the brown variant being a limited edition.

An especially pleasing detail that is consistent across all dial variants is the V-shaped balance on the centre seconds hand, which, together with the V-shaped hour marker at 12, reference the name of the collection.

Top-of-the-line movement

Seiko describes the new cal. 8L45 as representing “the pinnacle of Seiko’s mechanical watch movements” and it’s easy to see why.

Thanks to an improved mainspring, the new movement beats at 4 Hz, offers a power reserve of 72 hours, and is rated to +10 to -5 seconds per day. That’s good enough to top the Seiko range, but it still comes up short against pricier options from Grand Seiko.

Key facts and price

Seiko King Seiko Vanac
Ref. SLA083 (purple)
Ref. SLA085 (navy blue)
Ref. SLA087 (silver)
Ref. SLA089 (brown)
Ref. SLA091 (light blue)

Diameter: 41 m
Height: 14.3 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m 

Movement: Cal. 8L45
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and date
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Stainless steel bracelet

Limited edition: Regular production, except for SLA089 that’s limited to 700 pieces
Availability: From Jul 2025 at Seiko boutiques and retailers (SLA091 is boutique only)
Price: US$3,300

For more information, visit seikowatches.com.