A Modern Take on Paillonné Enamel by Hermès

The Arceau Robe Légère.

Bearing an equestrian motif in typical Hermès style, the Arceau Robe Légère has a dial in paillonné enamel. Inspired by the silk scarf of the same name, the dial depicts horse composed of thin layers of delicately formed silver leaf on a dark blue enamel base.

Initial thoughts

Paillonné is a relatively uncommon technique in watchmaking, and even when employed in watches it’s usually traditional in style. The Arceau Robe Légère, in contrast, has a modern, slightly whimsical feel, as is typical of Hermes’ house style, which sets it apart from most executions of paillonné enamel.

Granted, the equestrian motif is familiar and employed again and again, but it is very much Hermes. You wouldn’t expect anything else from a brand that began as a maker of leather saddles for horse riding.

Silver horse

Featuring a 38 mm white gold Arceau case with its asymmetrical stirrup-shaped lugs, the Arceau Robe Légère sports 71 brilliant-cut diamonds on its bezel.

The dial is in a dark blue fired enamel with the paillonné technique applied on top, with its intricate detailed revealed only up close.

The horse is actually composed of flowers, which are in turn made up of tiny pieces of silver foil (known as paillons) carefully assembled by hand on the dark blue enamel base. The motif is then painted over with clear enamel to set it on the base.

The watch is powered by the self-winding H1912 made by Vaucher. It offers 50 hours of power reserve, and beats at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz).

Key facts and price

Hermès Arceau Robe Légère

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: White gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. H1912
Functions: Hours and minutes
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Matt abyss blue alligator strap

Limited edition: 24 pieces
Availability: Now at Hermès boutiques
Price: Upon request

For more, visit hermes.com.

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A Grand Seiko 44GS in Purple-Pink Only for Asia

The "44GS" SBGJ285.

Grand Seiko marks the second anniversary of its establishment in the Asia-Pacific with the Heritage Collection 44GS “Fuji” SBGJ285. Featuring a purple-pink dial inspired by the wisteria flower, this limited edition is based on the reinterpretation of the vintage 44GS and its distinctive wide-flanked case.

The case and bracelet are in Ever-Brilliant steel, a proprietary steel alloy that’s harder and shinier than conventional watchmaking steel. Powered by the high-frequency automatic cal. 9S86, the SBGJ285 features “true GMT” functionality with an independently adjustable hour hand.

Initial thoughts

As a long-time fan of Grand Seiko, I love the patterned dials and Zaratsu case polishing. The SBGJ285 exemplifies the essence of Grand Seiko. Though Grand Seiko does put out a significant number of limited editions, this one stands out for its unusual purple-pink colour, which is a different shade from the “salmon” dials that are now in vogue.

The watch also reflects the brand’s traditional strengths and weaknesses. The case and dial finishing are excellent, particularly at this price point. However, the bracelet is not as refined as sophisticated as that of the competition. That said, this will look good on a leather strap, especially given the vintage-inspired 44GS case pairs well with a strap. Conveniently, this limited edition is delivered with both a steel bracelet and a calfskin strap.

Wisteria flower

The limited edition retains the standard case of the “SBGJ” model reference. It’s in Ever-Brilliant steel, measuring 40 mm in diameter and 14.04 mm in thickness, which is compact in width but fairly thick. The familiar 44GS case design is characterised by angled, flat flanks that catch the light well, especially with the mirrored flat polishing that is a Grand Seiko signature.

As is typical for limited edition Grand Seiko watches, the highlight is the textured dial. It’s finely grained and in a pale purple inspired by the wisteria flower; the shade is traditionally known as fuji-iro.

In typical Grand Seiko style, the dial features multi-faceted, mirrored steel indices and hands. The GMT hand is in a deep purple to match the dial. A subtle purple-and-silver 24-hour scale on the dial’s perimeter functions as the second time zone indicator.

The SBGJ285 is powered by the Hi-Beat cal. 9S86. The calibre runs at 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz) and offers 55 hours of power reserve.

Part of the “9S” family of movements, the calibre was constructed from the ground up as a second time-zone watch and features a “true” GMT function with an independently adjustable hour hand linked to the date. The local time hour hand is adjustable backwards and forwards in one-hour steps, with the date moving in tandem with the hour hand.

Key facts and price

Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 44GS “Fuji” Limited Edition
Ref. SBGJ285

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 14.04 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 9S86
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and GMT
Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: Matching stainless steel bracelet, and additional purple calfskin strap

Limited edition: 180 pieces
Availability: At the Grand Seiko boutique at Marina Bay Sands, Singapore, and authorised retailers in Asia-Pacific starting December 1, 2024
Price: 11,000 Singapore dollars including GST (equivalent to US$8,200)

For more, visit grand-seiko.com.