Hublot just unveiled the third instalment of Essential Grey, a series of watches dressed in a cool monochrome. The latest addition is the Classic Fusion Essential Grey that’s available in two sizes of 42 mm and 45 mm.

It’s a low-key look that sports a sun ray-brushed grey dial and titanium case. As is convention for Essential Grey, the pair are available only online.

The case sports the iconic porthole-shaped bezel

Initial thoughts

While earlier Essential Grey models were chronographs, the new pair are simply, time-and-date watches. Despite being monochromatic, the Essential Grey chronographs looked busy. The Classic Fusion, on the other hand, is a perfect match for the monochromatic palette.

The design is as clean as a Hublot can be, which complements the colour scheme well. Already a wearable watch in itself, the Classic Fusion in this restrained styling is made even more wearable.

The only weakness of the watch is the price. At US$8,500, the Classic Fusion Essential Grey is amongst the most affordable Hublot models, but it costs that much despite the basic Sellita SW300 movement inside. The SW300 is a strong performer but inexpensive and usually found in correspondingly inexpensive watches. I know that Hublot is working on a workhorse in-house calibre to take the place of the SW300, but until then the price is stiff.

Porthole

The Classic Fusion Essential Grey is available in 42 mm and 45 mm variants, with both identical save for the case dimensions. The 42 mm version is 10.4 mm thick, while the 45 mm version is 10.95 mm.

Both are powered by variants of the Sellita SW300, slightly modified to suit each case. The 42 mm version contains the HUB1110, while the 45 mm version is powered by the HUB1112.

Based on the Sellita SW300.

Styling is consistent across both variants. It’s classic Hublot with the porthole-shaped bezel secured by six H-head screws. The case is titanium with contrasting brushed and mirror-polish surfaces.

Featuring a sun-ray grey dial.

Finished in metallic grey, the dial is radially brushed and has a date at three with a matching grey date disc. Both the hour indices and hands are polished and faceted.

The strap is integrated into the case

As is standard for the Classic Fusion, the strap is secured to the case with screws, unlike higher-end Hublot models that feature a quick-release function. The fabric-covered rubber strap is matched with Hublot’s standard single-fold clasp that is not particularly ergonomic.

Key facts and price

Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Grey
Ref. 542.NX.5610.NR.HEC24
Ref. 511.NX.5610.NR.HEC24

Diameter: 42 mm/45 mm
Height: 10.4 mm/10.95 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: HUB1110/HUB1112 (both based on Sellita SW300)
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,000 beats per second (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Grey rubber strap with stainless steel deployment buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Hublot boutiques and retailers starting June 2024
Price: US$8,500

For more, visit hublot.com

The most complicated H. Moser & Cie. sports watch to date, the Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Blue Enamel is derived from the unique Streamliner Pandamonium created in collaboration with MB&F. The new Streamliner retains both the minute repeater and tourbillon, but without the panda figure and the oversized balance wheel.

In typical Moser “concept” style, the blue grand feu enamel dial is free of any markings and finished with a fumè gradient effect that darkens towards the periphery. Also found in the Endeavour, the movement was developed in collaboration with specialist Manufacture Hautes Complications (MHC).

Initial thoughts

Since Moser released the Streamliner four years ago, the sports watch has become the brand’s bestseller – unsurprisingly given the popularity of the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch category in general. The new repeater-tourbillon fills in a gap in the Streamliner range, which is to say a top-of-the-line, flagship complication.

Both minute repeater and flying tourbillon are visible on the dial

If you like the Streamliner design, as I do, the new repeater-tourbillon is a handsome watch. The addition of the visible mechanisms on the dial add greater detail and depth to the visuals, while the fired enamel dial is a nice tough, though a fragile enamel dial is somewhat paradoxical in a sports watch.

The repeater-tourbillon is similar in dimensions to the Streamliner chronograph, a good size for a sports watch of this design.

The only downside of the watch is a broader one, which is the frequent iterations and limited edition variants of the Streamliner. Admittedly this is not unique to Moser but common across luxury-sports watches in general, but at the price level of the repeater-tourbillon it should be “very rare”.

Striking looks

Though the dial is free of any branding, it is recognisable as Moser thanks to the V-shaped tourbillon bridge that is the brand’s signature.

The grand feu enamel dial is in translucent “Aqua blue” that reveals the hammered surface of the solid gold dial base. The translucent enamel has a graduated finish that darkens towards the edges, which was achieved with four different shades of blue enamel.

The enamel dial has a gradient effect, with lighter in the centre and darker towards the periphery

Visible around the enamel dial, the gongs are curved outwards to clear the flying tourbillon, while the mirror-polished hammers sit at 10 o’clock.

While the new Streamliner stays faithful to the model’s design, the construction has been subtly reworked to accommodate the complications. For example, the interior of the case was hollowed out to amplify the repeater’s chimes.

More notably, the case is water resistant to 50 m, which is unusual for a repeater given the difficulty of waterproofing the slide mechanism.

Built for wearability, the case is 42.3 mm in diameter and 14.4 mm thick (including the domed sapphire crystal)

The watch is equipped with the hand-wound HMC 905 that was originally developed in collaboration with MHC but now made in-house by Moser after MHC went bust.

It’s visible through the open back and sports a high contrast finish of dark grey ruthenium-coated bridges with gilded wheels and a gold chaton for the pivot jewel of the barrel.

The in-house HMC 905 visible through the sapphire case back

Key facts and price

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Blue Enamel
Ref. 6905-1200

Diameter: 42.3 mm
Height: 14.4 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. HMC 905
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, minute repeater and flying tourbillon
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour
Power reserve: 90 hours

Strap: Integrated bracelet in stainless steel

Limited edition: 50 pieces
Availability: Available at H. Moser & Cie. boutiques and retailers starting June 2024
Price: Approximately CHF260,000

For more, visit h-moser.com