H. Moser & Cie. is back with another Streamliner to kick off the year. The Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade sports a dial crafted from the mineral stone – mined in the American state – and a rose gold case, while retaining the other elements from the original Streamliner Tourbillon with a Vantablack dial released in 2022.
Like most mineral stones, jade has a natural pattern that varies across examples. As each piece of jade has a pattern that’s slightly different from the next, no two dials are exactly the same. This unique variance is one of the key attractions of natural stone dials. Here it is paired with rose gold, a combination that works particularly well.
Because it is identical in size to the earlier Streamliner Tourbillon, it also wears well. The 40 mm case sits well on my 6.5 in wrist, being neither too big nor too small thanks to the lug-less case design.
This is a pricey watch in absolute terms, with a retail of CHF 109,000. That said, the value proposition is actually decent. The comparable Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon in pink gold, for instance, costs almost double. While Moser is a niche brand compared to establishment names, it offers watches that are relatively more unusual, while being comparable in overall quality.
The only downside of this is arguably the edition size, which at 100 is substantial for a watch of this nature. Moser has been steadily increasing the variety and quantity of its high-end Streamliner models, namely precious metals, gem-set, or stone dials, making them not quite “very rare”.
The Jade Lobster
The new Streamliner Tourbillon has a case and bracelet in 5N red gold that has a strong copper tint. Finished with satin brushing and polished accents, the case flows seamlessly into the integrated “lobster” bracelet. The contrasts between the brushed and mirror-polished surfaces add refinement to the aesthetic.
As is often the case with Moser, the key element of the design is the logo-less dial, which is a disc of jade stone from Wyoming. Minimalist in a typical Moser manner, the dial has only three applied rose gold hour markers at the quarters. The rose gold hour and minute hands feature inserts of “Globolight”, a polymer-ceramic composite infused with Super-Luminova that has a long-lasting glow in the dark according to the brand.
The dial is a rich olive green, with its natural grain revealing traces of white and black inclusions. It begins as a small block of jade that is milled a CNC machine with lots of liquid lubricant, resulting in a thin slice of stone. The slice is then glued into a metal plate for stability and to prevent cracks.
The slice is are then milled once again to obtain the round shape required for the dial and to form the aperture for the tourbillon. The finished dial blank is then polished to remove imperfections and leave it with a glossy finish. Finally, it is removed from the plate and a layer of varnish is applied on the back of the jade before it is mounted on a brass dial base. The varnish prevents the brass base from showing through the translucent jade, while the base is necessary for robustness.
The Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade the HMC 804 calibre, the same self-winding movement found in several Moser tourbillon models.
The tourbillon cage forms a wide “V” that is a defining feature of the brand’s tourbillons, and inside is Moser’s signature double hairspring. The movement bridges are decorated with the brand’s trademark decoration of double Côtes de Geneve, essentially striping with alternating widths.
Key facts and price
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade
Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 12.1 mm
Material: 18k 5N red gold
Water resistance: 120 m
Movement: HMC 804
Functions: Hours, minutes, and flying tourbillon
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Integrated bracelet in red gold
Limited edition: 100 pieces
Availability: At H. Moser & Cie boutiques and retailers starting January 2024
For more information, visit h-moser.com.
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