Aventurine Complications by Bucherer and H. Moser & Cie.

Three timepieces inspired by the cosmos.

The collaboration between Bucherer and H. Moser & Cie. has given birth to a trio of timepieces: the Pioneer Tourbillon Concept Aventurine and two different takes on the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Aventurine.

Bucherer, a renowned Swiss retailer with a global presence that was recently acquired by Rolex, has made blue dials a signature feature of its collaborations. While most Bucherer exclusives sport blue-finish metal dials, this trio have dials of aventurine glass, otherwise known as goldstone. It’s essentially glass with metallic inclusions that give it a speckled, sparkly appearance that evokes the night sky.

Initial thoughts

The combination of red gold and deep blue dials neatly aligns with both Bucherer’s and Moser’s respective aesthetics. This collaboration continues the retailer’s tradition of unique, blue-themed exclusives that are a variants of familiar models.

It is worth noting the three timepieces are derived from models in Moser’s existing product range, including the aventurine dials. Furthermore, the movements, namely the HMC 904 with repeater and the HMC 804 tourbillon, remain unchanged. While this reflects the collaborative effort between Bucherer and Moser, it raises the question of whether even greater imaginative potential could have been explored by both entities.

That said, the aventurine dials are appealing, though they come at a price. For instance, the Pioneer Tourbillon Concept Aventurine costs US$71,500, compared to the US$65,900 price tag for the standard version without an aventurine dial. In the case of the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon, the difference is a more modest US$9,000.

Drawing from the Cosmos

Bucherer’s introduction of the inaugural Bucherer Blue collection in 2016 was a significant move in the watch industry. At the time, the initiative involved collaborating with nine watchmakers to create timepieces exclusively in this distinctive shade, available solely at Bucherer boutiques. The recent collaboration with Moser has resulted in three models, each sharing a captivating feature – a dial crafted from midnight blue aventurine glass, which is devoid of any branding.

With a limited run of just 18 pieces worldwide, the Pioneer Tourbillon Concept Aventurine has a case of 18k red gold and DLC-coated titanium that harmoniously complements the midnight blue dial. The visual effect of the two-metal case is similar to that of the rose gold and tantalum, but at a lower price.

The flying tourbillon, featuring skeletonised bridges at six o’clock, completes a full rotation every 60 seconds. Leaf-shaped hands with Super-LumiNova ensure easy readability, particularly against the clean dial.

In a limited run of just two pieces, the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Aventurine is an understated yet striking design.

Boasting both a minute repeater and a tourbillon, the movement exemplifies Moser’s sound watchmaking, here achieved with the help of complications specialist Manufactures Hautes Complications (MHC). The integration of the minute repeater’s mechanism into the dial aligns with the company’s minimalist philosophy, while the movement has an impressive 90 hours of power reserve.

Crowning the trilogy is the unique Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Aventurine & Diamonds, distinguished by a case in 18k white gold adorned with 85 baguette-cut diamonds totalling 4.95 carats. The diamond-set crown adds an extra touch of opulence to this unique piece that houses the same HMC 904 as its counterpart above.

Key facts and price

Bucherer x H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Tourbillon Concept Aventurine
Ref. 3804-0902 – Bucherer ref. 1398-499-1

Diameter: 42.8 mm
Height: 14 mm
Material: Red gold and DLC-coated titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: Cal. HMC 804
Functions: Hours, minutes, and tourbillon
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Rubber strap with pin buckle

Limited edition: 18 Pieces
Availability: Available at Bucherer Boutiques
Price: US$71,500 (excl. VAT)

Bucherer x H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Aventurine
Ref. 1904-0402 – Bucherer ref. 1398-477-5

Diameter: 40.0 mm
Height: 13.5 mm
Material: Red gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. HMC 904
Functions: Hours, minutes, tourbillon, and minute repeater
Winding: Hand wound
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 90 hours

Strap: Blue Alligator Leather Strap

Limited edition: Two Pieces
Availability: Available at Bucherer Boutiques
Price: US$374,000 (excl. VAT)

Bucherer x H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Aventurine & Diamonds
Ref. 1904-0201 – Bucherer ref. 1398-469-5

Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 14.2 mm
Material: White gold with baguette diamond-set bezel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. HMC 904
Functions: Hours, minutes, tourbillon, and minute repeater
Winding: Hand wound
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 90 hours